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2.0 D4D 2007 Engine Starts And Stalls Only When Cold


maverickqwe
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Hi

only just bought this car only when starting from cold left over night car starts first time then stops restarts straight away. Have cleaned out EGR and pipe , changed fuel filter, checked glow plugs all ok. Any idears car drives fine no smoke but has done 121000 miles.

Regards Tony

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Weird. Sounds to me like it might be your cold start engine management failing to keep the revs up enough to idle when cold. Try putting your aircon/interior fan to hot prior to starting the car and see if that helps. It raises the idle speed on mine so may keep yours going.

Doesn't solve the underlying fault though.

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could be temp sensor for ecu measurement / not guage is faulty and the glow time is short cause the ecu thinks the engine is warmer than it is . if all is working well then engine should advance timing and slightly raise injector opening times for a cold start but if the sensor is faulty then this will be out of sync

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will put my autocom on to do diagnostic check today see what temp reading is started the same this morniing fired straight away died then restarted fine second time no knocking smoke or running faults

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reading 18 degrees after standing for 2.5 hours after driving 2 miles to work outside temp at 7 degrees

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It may sound silly but have you tried starting it without your foot on the accelerator pedal but with the clutch pedal fully down. I have had one or two experiences like yours if I don't do it like this but never if I do, worth a try also let it idle for a few seconds before you rev it up ;) .

The aircon/heater will automatically pick it up to around 1200rpm anyway as Druid Boy said.

Pete.

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car started first time with foot on clucth and no throttle temp reading on diagnostics outside 4 degrees coolant sensor 5 degrees.

Anyone no the reason for needing foot on clutch I need to find this out

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car started first time with foot on clucth and no throttle temp reading on diagnostics outside 4 degrees coolant sensor 5 degrees.

Anyone no the reason for needing foot on clutch I need to find this out

Putting the clutch in takes some of the initial load off the engine as it's not turning the gearbox internals even in neutral, this give the electronics chance to pick up the engine speed etc. Maybe you shouldn't need to do this but it works for me and hopefully it will continue to work for you, some cars have their own little design faults. Most new cars now have a switch on the clutch pedal which won't let the car start unless the clutch is down BUT this is for safety reasons nothing to do with the above.

Regards Pete. :thumbsup:

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would a new starter make it better do you think ! Battery has been replaced I would like to sort it if possible

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would a new starter make it better do you think ! battery has been replaced I would like to sort it if possible

Strangely enough when the Avensis starter motor starts wearing out it's hot engine starting that's the problem in quite a lot of cases so if generally your cars starts ok I wouldn't bother, see how you go on with my method, it's been good for me over the last 4 years and I'm never in doubt it will start first time .... it always does :yes: .

Pete.

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just read handbook and it states to depress clutch fully before starting seems strange it only does it when left overnite starts fine anyother time of day.

just one other thing I get a water noise from behind dash on first start up no pressue in cooling system or head gasket faults is this normal.

you may remember I bought a 2.2 t spirt had head gasket gone major pressure in cooling system loosing water from overflow and failed block test I took it back and got a refund(was a great car) I even started to take out engine at work to do gasket but it was going to be a massive job could have been major problems when stripped so I bailed out and it went back to motor trader boo hoo!!!

Pete do u work in a toyota dealership?

Tony

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Hello again,

no I don't work for Toyota but a very good mate does, I have spent most of my life as a Tech fixing cars, trucks, forklifts and other mobile plant so I've got experience. Knowing someone who does work for Toyota does help though and I'm never afraid to ask if required.

Get that water gurgling looked at for peace of mind, it may just be an airlock in the heater matrix but it needs to be checked asap.

Pete.

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Mine makes the same noise. Always has. 102,000 miles on the clock now so I reckon if it was going to be a problem it would have done it by now. I just ignore the noise and motor on.

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Made the water noise from heater better by following the cooling system bleeding procedure

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That's a good result on the water noise anyway, hopefully the cold start situation will be ok.

Regards Pete .

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could be temp sensor for ecu measurement / not guage is faulty and the glow time is short cause the ecu thinks the engine is warmer than it is . if all is working well then engine should advance timing and slightly raise injector opening times for a cold start but if the sensor is faulty then this will be out of sync

Just to mention, probably it is interesting to know: When I changed two faulty glow plugs I decided to check how long actually heating lasts because for me was suspicious, when start the engine, the glow plugs heating light is on just for 1-2 sec. I connected small LED with wires to glow plugs and attached it behind windscreen wipers to be visible from inside. Experiment showed the heating lasted about 1.5 minutes after start cold engine (no matter light was off) and 1 sec when it was hot. Outside temp. was 0 to 4 deg. Probably in the summer time it will be shorter.

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  • 8 years later...

Hello guys,

I am searching for some info/help for my problem with my Avensis 2007 D4D 2.2 Diesel. I read all of the posts so far and there is really good information that I will try tomorrow when it's cold. Pretty much my car starts really nice and normally and then it shuts down. It's like the fuel or air it's not running and the car just stalls.

When it's a warmer weather there's no such thing. Only from time to time when I start the engine it like tries to stall but the regulating stuff that's in the car and it's systems prevents it by giving it more RPMs. Now when it's cold outside I start the engine no problem but then it just shuts down even if I press the gas pedal to help it a bit. So far I did a fix on my injectors, the Battery is a really good one, I use expensive fuel with additives for the winter time, I checked the starting plugs, the fuel filter is new, air filter also, we measures the fuel pressure from fuel pump it's good, I recently changed the EGR valve with a brand new one since an error started showing and we found it to be the problem but apparently not, the antifreeze is good, the oil's good etc etc.... I pretty much checked everything you could think of but still in the winter the car stalls right after starting and in order to start the engine and for it to stay running I need to keep the key turned up for like 6-9 seconds and then it starts and it enters neutral RPMs...Not to mention the starter suffers when I start it like this and it's not normal >_<

I will try the clutch pedal method mentioned above and the ac/heater method also but I am really losing my mind over this...

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