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Stuttering engine when in light load


Sausagesalad
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Hello!

im new to this forum. I’m from Austria and I drive a Toyota Auris Hybrid Touring Sports 2017.

and since a few weeks I’ve got a little (hopefully) problem. 

In light load (in the range when both engines are working together, look at the foto) the engine is slightly stuttering. If I get out of the range shown at the foto everything is ok and smooth. 

The problem started after a long highway drive at high speed. Before there was nothing. 

i cleaned the air flow meter with a spray and changed the air filter.

Does anyone know what’s the problem is?

 

PS sorry for my bad English It’s not my mother language 🙂

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1 hour ago, Sausagesalad said:

Hello!

im new to this forum. I’m from Austria and I drive a Toyota Auris Hybrid Touring Sports 2017.

and since a few weeks I’ve got a little (hopefully) problem. 

In light load (in the range when both engines are working together, look at the foto) the engine is slightly stuttering. If I get out of the range shown at the foto everything is ok and smooth. 

The problem started after a long highway drive at high speed. Before there was nothing. 

i cleaned the air flow meter with a spray and changed the air filter.

Does anyone know what’s the problem is?

 

PS sorry for my bad English It’s not my mother language 🙂

Hi and welcome. 
What is the total mileage of your car ?
I have a similar car with the same engine and few months back I had issues with acceleration, when pushed hard the engine  was pulsating like it hits a rev limiter and wasn’t nice to drive, in moderate acceleration was fine though. I was suspicious about fuel injectors been clogged and catalytic converter since all that happened after a lockdown and the car was not in use for a long time plus I had occasionally kept in ready mode idle as well to maintain the 12v Battery. After using this additive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wynns-Catalytic-Convertor-Lambda-Cleaner-325ml-Plus-FREE-Delivery-/254676772681?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 and refuel with better quality fuel everything went back to normal and the problem never returned. If you tell me your mileage and service history, what have been done to the car, egr cleaning, throttle body, intake manifold etc I can give you some more suggestions. 👍 I can’t see any pictures included for some reason. 

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Sorry that’s the problem range 

D3B400C2-BE0A-4FF0-A910-1D726C60BB9A.jpeg

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Total mileage is approx 110.000km (65.000 miles).

 

at home i have new spark plugs and oil. im waiting for the tools i need...

do you think the additive would help me too?

 

EDIT: i bought the car without any knowledge about it, because it was very very cheap... so i have no service history -.-

 

EDIT2: 

 

Quote

If you tell me your mileage and service history, what have been done to the car, egr cleaning, throttle body, intake manifold etc I can give you some more suggestions. 

 

the only thing ive done was to clean the air flow meter with a spray and changed the air filter.

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10 hours ago, Sausagesalad said:

Sorry that’s the problem range 

D3B400C2-BE0A-4FF0-A910-1D726C60BB9A.jpeg

Hi, 

the mileage it’s not that high if it’s real to have egr issues, more like bad fuel or something along the fuel line.  Do you fill up with E10 or E5 petrol? If you are using exclusively E10 drive the car to almost empty and refuel with E5 99 or whatever octane number is in your country. I found out that my hybrid drives much better with E5 99 premium petrol than standard E10 95 that is available in UK. Especially in the range you have your problems with E5 my car deliver better performance, faster moderate acceleration, smoother engine run and less engine noise through entire power range. If you have an obd2 adapter or any diagnostic tool to hook up and check for trouble codes stored like misfire will also be beneficial. And yes that wynns addictive works wonders , it did really fixed my issues therefore you can try it too,  just make sure you are following the instructions max 30ltr of fuel in to work and take the car again for a 30-40 min motorway drive, no need to be super fast speeds but continues driving to rise up temperature and burn carbon buildup. You can also watch this video and open that tube to check how dirty is and clean, this will give you an idea of how bad is your egr, you may want to clean that too. This guy also has other very informative videos to watch about many things about our cars. 

 

My advice is:

try first with better fuel E5

use that wynns additive catalytic converter and lambda sensor cleaner 

change your spark plugs as 60k miles is recommended interval, although they can last twice as long 

don’t rush to do any work on the car if you are not familiar with, watch videos on YouTube to get an idea what and how to do, then work and analyse if there are any positive changes after each job is completed. 
There is another guy with helpful video to watch 

 

And btw anything you are looking about your car on engine, transmission and Battery look about  Prius gen 3 as basically all that things are the same. 
Good luck 👍

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  • 10 months later...

Hi there I have the same problem on my Auris hybrid 2018 stutters at the same place as yours also when the Battery gets to two bars and the petrol kicks in it stutters as well in low speed

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2 hours ago, Fen75 said:

Hi there I have the same problem on my Auris hybrid 2018 stutters at the same place as yours also when the battery gets to two bars and the petrol kicks in it stutters as well in low speed

What is the mileage of the car? It maybe an egr problem. 

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My bet is on the inlet manifold as I had the same range vibration / throttle issue. I replaced. EGR, EGR cooler, full on injector cleaner course and regular servicing the usuals. Its specifically the little holes inside the inlet manifold that get blocked and seemed to fix my issue.

This youtube video solved my issue.

 

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On 10/5/2021 at 11:56 PM, Sausagesalad said:

Total mileage is approx 110.000km (65.000 miles).

 

at home i have new spark plugs and oil. im waiting for the tools i need...

do you think the additive would help me too?

 

EDIT: i bought the car without any knowledge about it, because it was very very cheap... so i have no service history -.-

 

EDIT2: 

 

 

the only thing ive done was to clean the air flow meter with a spray and changed the air filter.

How did you spray your MAF? Careful not to use contact cleaner that often contain lubricant. Always use acetone free  carburator or brake cleaner gently if you cannot find special MAF cleaner. 

To rule out EGR issue, you can disconnect EGR electric plug when the engine is warm/after Autobahn drive. Check if the light throttle issue is still there. You will get check engine light but that's is easy to clear using OBD2 scanner like Veepeak €15 with Torque Apps lite or Dr. PRIUS. 

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It's summer time. AC is on high, lights on, radio on, EPS also uses a lot of power. That could be the reason. Does the problem happen with AC off, or at night when temperatures are colder?

 

 

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On 8/30/2022 at 8:39 AM, furtula said:

It's summer time. AC is on high, lights on, radio on, EPS also uses a lot of power. That could be the reason. Does the problem happen with AC off, or at night when temperatures are colder?

 

 

AC and electronics does not effect the engine on hybrid. Everything is supplied by the DC to DC converter on 12V lines. The AC use 115V line. I guess it is specific on engine, fuel, ignition, and exhaust system. Use Torque pro to monitor all the vitals when engine at operating temperature. Especially the advance timing, coolant, inverter, HV temperatures and EGR motor status. 

If you are still eligible under relax warranty, qsk dealership to fix it. If not, make the relax warranty valid first. About 40 days after your firsr annual inspection/ oil change in dealership. Relax warranty is transferable. If not active, can be activated at anytime when you want. I am afraid if it is Inverter problems that is being recalled in USA from 2010-2014 Prius. 

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  • 1 month later...

Bit late in responding to my problem but after ruling out spark plugs and coil pack and egr valve the cause of the problem was indeed the inlet manifold two of the three holes were totally blocked and a little oil in the manifold itself! Thanks for the link in the video.. mixstream 👍

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Well , I am back in the same game after only traveled 90k miles since I last cleaned everything. Parts ordered and will be a cleaning game again. 🧑‍🔧⚙️🧰 Pictures will follow likely. Will be interesting to see what’s inside the burner 😂

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Ok, parts are here and it will be a big job after two weeks if weather allows me to do it. Here all the gasket and the pcv with the oem numbers. No need to change the metal gaskets if you open for first time. All other needs to be changed. Throttle body gasket can also skip first time. They are not expensive so better get a new ones. The price on the invoice is for the intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket and pcv. The other ones are cheap, perhaps another £15 on top. 👍 

9AEC4537-A0D8-42CC-BD13-5B4B90B228CF.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

When you say stuttering engine, do you mean it sounds like its revving as your driving?

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No, blocked egr passages will feel like the car is shaking ( vibrations) like on not properly balanced wheels when using light mode which is most of the times except when accelerating harder to gain a speed. If the carbon build up is severe the engine will start shake violently to the point that you will hear knocking metal sounds like old broken engine. These will be presented in specific conditions like when hybrid Battery is low, when you drive slow and release accelerator, when starting at cold. At that point you should service (clean or replace ) all egr components including inlet manifold to prevent further damage to the clutch damper that cost £1000 plus the labour for replacement. Some dealers offer cleaning and egr valve replacement. 

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