0W20 - Dec 2022 - Update

[Kojac]

 

Fellow members. 

Time for an update (Pricing/Brand/Supplier).

0W20 - (non OEM i.e aftermarket)

Updated recommendations of Brand + Supplier sought.

Medium/Good quality oil -  at good value.

Any active offers / specials that you can share?

Aim of this thread, is to help fellow members of the TF community with (up-to-date) recommendations.

K.

[TonyHSD]

The oil of my choice since 2016 is Petronas Syntium 0w20 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323898235244?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3hyRrutZQQ-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here is the best price and 100% authentic product,  sometimes eBay make discount codes also available from 5-15% off then becomes even better deal., not bad even at £60 for 10ltr.
Tested by myself and my car for over 170000 miles and temperatures ranges from -8C° to +40C° and no problems at all., it should be a god oil imo. 👍

[Mojo1010]

Mannol Oil

Optilube

[AisinW]

I will use Mannol with 6 months/5k miles interval, not 10k miles just because it is mostly group III oil, not PAO unlike Ravenol, Mobil1 ESP X2, Shell, or Total ineo. 

I found that VW, Skoda, Seat 0w-20 508/509 often have a real good deal just because abundant and large scale costumers. VAG longlife oil is tested up to 30k miles becauw they are mainly PAO with pouring temp near -60C, typical API SN oil is only -40C. It cost about £33. 

Mannol 0w-20 7722 with 508/509 certification is 60% more expensive than Mannol 7918 API SN. 

In short, any 0w-20 with longlife certification from either BMW, Benz, Porsche, GM DexosD, etc. are better than non certified one. 

Toyota genuine oil 0w-20 requirement is very modest, only API SN, ILSAC 5. Newer modern oil is API SP, ILSAC 6A. The newest Toyota oil from Japan with metal can is already ILSAC 6A and any longlife oil is above ILSAC 6A standard.

 

[Gray86]

I’m about to use Millers Oils XF Premium C5/C6 0w-20 Fully Synthetic in our Yaris 1.33

 

[AisinW]

You do not need a racing oil for Yaris 1.33, not Yaris GR 1.6 Turbo. If you like premium oil but non racing but fully synthetic PAO, get Amsoil Signature, Ravenol VSE or ECS. Racing oil have much higher antiwear additives ZDDP family for high rpm and abuse but the side effects of most antiwear additives is poisoning catalytic converter faster. 

Amsoil and Ravenol are the only company use pure PAO, not blend PAO and group III hydrocracked mineral oil. 

[Kojac]

On 12/16/2022 at 9:58 PM, AisinW said:

...I found that VW, Skoda, Seat 0w-20 508/509 often have a real good deal just because abundant and large scale costumers. VAG longlife oil is tested up to 30k miles becauw they are mainly PAO with pouring temp near -60C, typical API SN oil is only -40C. It cost about £33. 

...

In short, any 0w-20 with longlife certification from either BMW, Benz, Porsche, GM DexosD, etc. are better than non certified one. 

Toyota genuine oil 0w-20 requirement is very modest, only API SN, ILSAC 5. 

 

Aisin, could you please point me in the direction of suppliers that can provide this oil at £33 for the 4.5 L my auris needs.

I would be interested on fellow members thoughts on what AisinW has posted, as exploring this topic will increase our knowledge & capabilities. This is often best achieved through discussion, exploration & discovery.

AisinW - I am very grateful to you for sharing your expertise. These alternatives wouldn't have occurred to me under any other scenario.

[AisinW]

I usually buy from local seller Kleinanzeigen (German gumtree) or facebook. Some people bought the oil but decided not to DIY. i just got it for €30.  You can try eBay.co.uk for some bulk sale, search for Skoda, Seat, VW 0w-20 508/509.   I found couple months ago, 6L for €45. 

Normally it cost about €45 shipped. https://www.ebay.de/itm/284678442132?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0&ssspo=vfqd70jSTvW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5QRHI8XfS6O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

alternatively, Mannol 7722 certified 508/509 is about €60 for 10L. 

[Kojac]

Decided to go cheap and cheerful as I'll be doing an oil change inside of a couple months.

[AisinW]

Use decent oil but more frequent 5-8k miles interval is better than using luxury oil but 10k miles.  That's why I also use Mannol 7722 for 8k miles interval in the past 2 years.  My car is relatively new, 90k miles and 0 oil consumption. 

[TonyHSD]

I think it doesn’t really matter what brand of oil been used as long as it’s the exact specs 0w20 A5 or newer A6. If the car been used regularly one service per year within these 10k miles and 12 months is enough to keep everything running smoothly and for a long time. Very important here not to skip the  time intervals, some people particularly low mileage drivers often skip a year of service , sometimes two, and this is what causes all the issues with oil consumption etc. Every engine after some miles will start consuming some oil, my one also didn’t use any oil, even drop of oil between changes up until around 120k miles, then started to drink. Now in winter particularly uses over a litre between 10k miles changes. ( not even 10k , more like 9k miles as I always do earlier than late.) 

[Kojac]

Serious Question:

From time code 19:50

Does anyone have knowledge of the "Oil System Cleaners" that are NOT available 'retail' - that Toyota Use internally?

Is it available in the UK? What would I need to access it?

He is clear - Toyota do have a Oil System Cleaner of some sort - for those at stage one or stage two.

I would like help learning what this is - and what to ask for/how to access it.

[AisinW]

It is very simple.  Just wrench the filter out,  remove the drain bolt.  Put new filter back 25Nm torque, install the drain bolt with the washer back 37 Nm. Fill 4.1 L 0w-20 Close the filler cap. Nothing complicated but could be disastrous for 1st doer without any experience.  

There is no such BS oil system cleaner or engine flush = seals destroyer. Never use such products unless it is TSI engines with sludge as thick as aspalt.

I  had cars with over 200k miles and none of them ever need engine flush. Prius 06 consume 0.5 L every 5k miles 5w-30, 6 months interval. Sienna 2004 AWD no oil consumption with 5k miles interval 5w-30. 

The CarCareNuts talks about filter for trucks that is installed upside down. Auris is installed horizontally and only have 1 gasket. 

[AisinW]

This guy shows how to do oil change in auris hybrid 

 

[Guest]

12 hours ago, Kojac said:

Serious Question:

From time code 19:50

Does anyone have knowledge of the "Oil System Cleaners" that are NOT available 'retail' - that Toyota Use internally?

Is it available in the UK? What would I need to access it?

He is clear - Toyota do have a Oil System Cleaner of some sort - for those at stage one or stage two.

I would like help learning what this is - and what to ask for/how to access it.

Totally agree with John (Aisin) re these oil "cleaners". The correct specification oil, when changed to specified or earlier, contains additives to do exactly that. If I were potentially booking a service, Toyota franchise or independent, and they tried to upsell this stuff, I'd go elsewhere!

[TonyHSD]

Engine oil flush it’s not harmful to any seals or gaskets. It is also a good thing to be done every second oil change on cars with 50k miles or over. It keeps the new oil cleaner for longer, helps dislodge some particular accumulation on the metal inside the engine and to evacuate these outside with the old oil via the drain plug. The new oil does the same with small difference that some of the matter is trapped in the oil filter but some will continue to recirculate the engine and rest at the bottom for the next 10k miles or so. Modern and quality engine additives can only help maintain and extend your engine life. Here you can see how healthy looks rubber seal on high mileage engine that had at least 10 engine flushes and a couple of oil treatments, plus fuel additives which also work a magic. Oil is also nice and clean, here we have at least 5000 miles since oil change.

[FROSTYBALLS]

13 hours ago, Kojac said:

Does anyone have knowledge of the "Oil System Cleaners" that are NOT available 'retail' - that Toyota Use internally?

What was said was that 'the brands they use at the dealership are not available for retail sales' - so not Toyota. Aside from that, as the video is US based, they will probably have different products to the UK.

[Kojac]

1 hour ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

What was said was that 'the brands they use at the dealership are not available for retail sales' - so not Toyota. Aside from that, as the video is US based, they will probably have different products to the UK.

I see your point.

From timecode 19:56

What we can conclude then is that Toyota dealerships (under certain circumstances) do use an Oil System Cleaner, if there's a chance that the piston-ring situation, is pre Stage-Three.

Whether in the US or the UK - the underlying reasoning & rationale would be the same.

I think that one oil change may have been missed, and that my car might be close to stage 1.

I want to give it a try.

In the video he is clear - his dealership would use an Oil System Cleaner - if my car went to them & it was exhibiting symptoms.

I am asking the community's help to understand which cleaner they use at the Toyota Garages in the US & where I could get this cleaner today (UK). I have a friend that owns his own garage - so I can get access to the non retail stuff - as long as I can find out what brand & type they are likely using at the Toyota dealership in the video.

[AisinW]

Generally, none ever need engine oil flush if the oil change is done regularly with the right quality oil.  Many of us have no oil consumption issue with 10k miles interval but many also have. 

My 1.5L consume oil even with 5k miles interval right around 180k miles, 0.5 L per 5k miles but the 3.3 V6, 1.8L Corolla 03, and 2.2L camry 98 never have oil consumption issue after 216k miles when I sold them. 

Engine flush is only relevant if we found sludge issue (open the valve cover to see) or oil consumption, >1 L per 2k miles. Not all engine flush product are safe and many can only be run for few minutes, not months before destroying seals in the engine. If the seals hold up, the wear on the piston rings and wall are usually high. The product is mostly solvents and very harsh to oil tribology property. 

[FROSTYBALLS]

1 hour ago, Kojac said:

I am asking the community's help to understand which cleaner they use at the Toyota Garages in the US

Why not actually make a comment on the video and ask the question.

[Guest]

4 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

helps dislodge some particular accumulation on the metal inside the engine

Which begs the question where the accumulation go? Possibly blocking small oil passages/orifices, e.g. timing chain sprayers.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

Why not actually make a comment on the video and ask the question.

As most don't use U.S. garages, it's diffiult to answer.

[Guest]

The video. Quite useful. It's a shame he doesn't torque the filter housing and drain plug to those specified. In fact  it's usually marked on the filter housing. 25Nm? Possibly 36/37Nm for the drain plug?

[TonyHSD]

23 minutes ago, newagetraveller said:

Which begs the question where the accumulation go? Possibly blocking small oil passages/orifices, e.g. timing chain sprayers.

No, the engine flush only can move very tiny particles attached to the metal parts inside the engine, not the sludge and hard like stone build up that needs a physical removal. The engine flush makes the oil thinner and unblocks these oil galleys, internal mesh filters, chains tensioners, sprayers etc. also within the engine flush content there is lubricant agent, you can drain your oil and fill up with engine flush , run your engine for 15 min and you will not cause probably any damage. I do once every 4-8 months.
I am using exclusively stp red bottle, works brilliant. 👍 My car is still running good after many years and miles, engine sound happy too. Been doing engine flushes for years on many different cars, some well looked after , some been neglected and I never had a single issue caused by engine flush , oil additives, or fuel additives. Here would like to note that in some cases these additives helped me solve an issues previously and there were no need for physical work or parts replacement any further. All shared on the forum. This is my personal experience from using car additives. 

[FROSTYBALLS]

51 minutes ago, newagetraveller said:

As most don't use U.S. garages, it's diffiult to answer.

I did advise to make a comment on the video - ie. on Youtube - rather than on these forums.