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Yaris steering not self centering


Ted Striker
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Hi

Just picked up a 2004 Yaris with a genuine 50k miles. Car is fine apart from the steering which doesn't self centre from anything less than the 2 or 10 o'clock position. In the straight ahead position it takes quite a lot of pressure on the wheel to make it move before it suddenly unsticks and moves suddenly. When returning the wheel to straight ahead which you have to do manually it does so in a series of notches. From what I can gather by looking online it isn't an uncommon issue but I haven't so far been able to find a definitive answer. 

 

 

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The two things I've seen reported on the forum over they years that may cause this is if there is wear or corrosion in the steering geometry that is stopping the natural castor angle of the wheels returning to centre, and in French-made ones, the electric power steering can forget where centre is and need recalibration by going from full lock to lock a few times

 

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I've tried the lock to lock thing with no difference. I may try pulling the EPS fuse to disable the power steering, if it steers normally at speed it would probably rule out castor/ geometry. I  do know someone with the necessary software to check sensor calibration. What I'm trying to avoid is a prolonged and expensive process of elimination. 

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There was a thread recently where someone had (IIRC) the dash stripped out to replace a matrix in the HVAC system (warranty job I think) though this was a Mk3. He had this problem after. He took it back to the dealer and they 'fixed' it.

Might be worth trying to find that for clues about what they did - The thread was something about white powder on the dash I think, but my memory isn't great.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My dad's MK1 Yaris has been like this for years.  He's in his 80s and is used to it, but I find it a pain to drive.  

His car is 2004 with 30k on it. 

I've read of people removing the fuse which controls the power steering as a work around.  

If you do get it recalibrated let us know if it fixes it.

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Hi. 

I've have had it on the computer which doesn't show any errors and also have tried pulling the fuse which apart from obviously making the steering ridiculously heavy didn't make any difference. Next step is going to be getting it on the ramp and checking ball joints and steering column UJ etc as this won't cost me anything. If everything seems OK I'll take out the power steering motor and get it checked/ replaced. !Removed! irritating on a car with such low mileage but could in a way be a contributing factor. My drive to work has 25 miles of motorway and my arm/ wrist was aching afterwards from the pressure needed on the wheel to make minor adjustments to stay in the centre of a lane which you don't even notice doing normally. 

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Hi Ted,

I had the same problem with a Mk1 2006 1.0lt Citroen C1. I'm sure it's down to an issue that crops up with the EPS unit, the part is common to both the Yaris and the Aygo from memory.

I'd changed lots of the steering componets trying to cure this but still had the problem, lack of self centering. Apparently this can be corrected/reset using Techstream, if you're lucky enough to have it and know what your doing. However for us mere mortals there is another manual method of performing what's termed as "zero recalibration".

I was helped by one of the most knowledgable members on here. It involes the use of two short wires used across three of the terminals of the OBD2 port that will allow you to read codes stored in the EPS and also a means of clearing the same without having to use any computer or OBD2 reader. The EPS codes can't be read unless you have Techstream or the equivulent.

Have posted the link to my post below but what your really interested in is on page two or three with the detail and method and also a link to two files with Toyota's own instructions:-

 

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Thanks very much. Another thing I've noticed is that if when you are self centering the wheel 'manually' you can just about feel that it returns in a series of faint increments which makes me think it is EPS motor related. 

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Yeap! That's how I discribed the feeling of the steering as being "notchy" around the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock area, on the C1 it was closer to 11 to 2 though!

Hope the information helps with your steering, I struggled to get it right the first few tries but won eventually.

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I've just read through it,  I admire your persistence! Sounds like a right pain to do , just wish I could find an independent with the necessary software to just plug it in and sort it 

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Doubt you'll find an independent with the right software! You could look around for a good auto-electrician as I think they're the only one's who are likely to have anything up to Toyota's own.

The manual method described isn't that involved and it allows you to read any stored codes in the EPS system, connect the wire(s) as described and the power steering light flashes indicating the code(s). Follow the instructions and you'll be able to manually clear the code stored which causes the lack of self centering.

I had been to a very reliable mechanic I'd been using for some years and he drove the C1 before I sorted it and said he thought they were all like that! He had a professional diagnostic kit but it wouldn't read the steering module codes as it needed manufacturer specific kit. Once I'd read and then cleared the code it was much better to drive! The information you want is contained in the two PDF files that Flash22 attached for me. If you don't get any flashes on the PS light using the manual flash method then the EPS module likely isn't your problem.

I see you're in the West Mid's area, if you're not too far from Warwick there's a very good Auto Electrician here who might be able to help you. He comes at a price, not dealer prices, and I think it's only a labour charge to be paid, as the information he'd need is in those two files. I can let you have his number and you can run it by him if you're interested Ted.

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Yes by all means let me have a number, I'm only 20 minutes away from Warwick 

👍

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Hi again Ted,

I think his name is John (a one man band). My mechanic in Coventry recomended him going back years ago, posted a link with his details for you below:-

https://warwick.cylex-uk.co.uk/company/motor-rite-12919045.html

My son was also recommended to the same guy last year by a garage in Leamington Spa to fix his BMW X1, the dealers wanted almost £2k to do it, he sorted it for £800.

If he were to see the PDF files he would understand what needs doing and be able to carry out the test, read any EPS codes and clear them for you if need be. Bear in mind that the EPS may not be at fault but be indicating a problem in a sensor elsewhere. From memory his labour is around £70 - 80/hr.

 

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Thanks. I'll try and contact him later/ tomorrow 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Took it ro the guy in Warwick. Couldn't find anything wrong with it. Took it to another place in Coventry who again confirmed no fault codes but said it had improved since fully charging the Battery and speculating the Battery may have a fault which is drawing current away from the EPS motor. The afternoon I dropped off the car it was quite warm and the steering was worse than ever. Picking up the car this morning it felt initially better, maybe 50% but not right. However later in the day in warmer temperatures it was back to awful again. I'm going to put in a new quality Battery and if its the same I'll have to get rid of it. Thing has cost me nearly 400 pounds so far and I'm no nearer curing it.

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Hi Ted,

Sorry to hear that you're not having any luck with your steering problem. Before you go spending more of your hard earned cash would you like to send me a private message, may be we can sort something as think we're quite local.

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The universal joint at the bottom of the steering column is knackered.  

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Hey the snowflake filter doesn’t mind knackered.   

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How certain are you? Have you had the same problem?

 

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I wonder if the rack itself is faulty - It sounds like it's getting stuck/jammed at certain points. I think the electric ones use a recirculating ball system, and if the grease has hardened/dried out in certain parts of the rack it might cause this...?

(One reason I liked the hydraulic ones are better as they are basically just hydraulic rams and rarely go wrong!)

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There's a definite notchy feel from 10 o'clock to 2. Could well be that but could also be a number of other things🤔

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Just now, Ted Striker said:

There's a definite notchy feel from 10 o'clock to 2. Could well be that but could also be a number of other things🤔

There could be more than one uj on the steering column but I’m 100% sure that is what you are describing.  A universal joint can swing freely in two axis and if it seizes in one of them it will turn stiff easy, stiff easy.  It’s usually the one nearest the rack.   jack it up with both wheels off the floor and turn it lock to lock and you’ll feel it.  You can sometimes change the joint but a lot of them are staked now but there should be plenty in the scrap yard.  It’s a hands and knees job but if you fertle down at the carpet you can usually find a pinch bolt.  Might be actually underneath in the engine bay.  On a RAV there is an intermediate shaft with a pinch bolt at floor level and a uj at the rack.  There’s a tutorial I did in the maintenance section.  It’s going to be similar on yours. You might end up with the column off but it’s definitely one of those universal joints.  Mind that airbag, she bite!

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2 hours ago, Ted Striker said:

How certain are you? Have you had the same problem?

 

100%.  See other post. 

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👍

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think they all do it with the electric steering my 2004 does it with less than 7000 miles on it

 

dont know about the pre face lift ones with hydraulic steering

 

you just get used to it

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