Cv Joint Snapped Off Again In 12 Months

[celicatrd]

Can somebody help me out please?

I have a 94'Celica 2.0 (ST202 3S-GE) Import from Japan (had for nearly 3yrs now).

My CV joint has snapped off for the second time in 12 months, inside the wheel just past the nut and split pin.

I've since had a new CV joint fitted along with a new wheel bearing. After a few days driving it's starting to make a grinding/whirring noise from that area.

I took it back to the mechanic and he seems to think that my hub is damaged from the first time my CV joint snapped. The mechanic said when my CV snapped I had a lot of play in that area in between getting it to the garage (approx 8 miles driving).

He's suggested to get a new or second hand hub and that should take care of the problem.

Can anyone shed any light on this please as to replace a CV joint & Wheel bearing twice in 12 months doesn't seem right.

Is it my so-called damaged hub or could it be something else?

1. If it is the hub I need to know if I can order the UK part or do I have to order a Japanese part from an Import parts dealer.

2. Can anyone recommend where I can get this part from or who/where to ask for advice on this matter please?

I would be most grateful if someone could get back to me ASAP, as my car is off the road now and I'm desperately needing to get back behind the wheel.

Thanks,

Ronnie...

[Mick24]

Two ways the Hub could be damaged:

1) Previous accident damage

2) If the wheel bearing has collapsed and worn the bore where the bearing sits - bearings are a press fit and should have no play when assembled.

Drive Shaft Failure:

1)Excessive wheel spinning

2)Too bigger offset on aftermarket Alloy Wheels.

It sounds like the Drive Shaft nut may have been over Torqued(tightened) causing it to fracture and fail at its weakest point(the shoulder on the shaft at the end of the thread).

When assembling,you should smear a drop of engine oil on the drive shaft threads,both sides of the washer and back face of the nut and then torque it up to the manafactures spec. using a decent torque wrench.You may have to tighten it up slightly over the reccomended torque to line the split pin up but no more than 3/8ths of a turn.

Hope some of this is helpfull to you and Post any progress you make.

[celicatrd]

Two ways the Hub could be damaged:

1) Previous accident damage

2) If the wheel bearing has collapsed and worn the bore where the bearing sits - bearings are a press fit and should have no play when assembled.

Drive Shaft Failure:

1)Excessive wheel spinning

2)Too bigger offset on aftermarket Alloy Wheels.

It sounds like the Drive Shaft nut may have been over Torqued(tightened) causing it to fracture and fail at its weakest point(the shoulder on the shaft at the end of the thread).

When assembling,you should smear a drop of engine oil on the drive shaft threads,both sides of the washer and back face of the nut and then torque it up to the manafactures spec. using a decent torque wrench.You may have to tighten it up slightly over the reccomended torque to line the split pin up but no more than 3/8ths of a turn.

Hope some of this is helpfull to you and Post any progress you make.

                                                             

←

Thanks,

I might order a hub on monday hoping that this will be the answer to my problem.

I forgot to mention my car's been lowered with 18" alloys and have been told that my geometry with my diff/driveshaft could be out.

Should I try the hub way first at £80 from toyota or look into getting the geometry looked at?

[Mick24]

"I forgot to mention my car's been lowered with 18" alloys and have been told that my geometry with my diff/driveshaft could be out."

Dont think the Geometry would cause the driveshaft to fail, if the Camber,Caster and toe settings were that far out,it would handle like a bag of Shi*e and scrub your tyres out in no time.

A 4 wheel Geometry check will tell you if the car is "straight" (accident damage) and certainly the KPI(king pin inclination) readings on the front will tell you if the hubs have accident damage(but not wear) as the KPI is a fixed setting of the machined hub assembly. For example the KPI on a ST182,184,185 is 14 Degrees 10' plus or minus 30' so anything out of the tolerence,you are looking for problems around the hub area.

The 18" alloys and lowered coil springs will have an effect on the driveshafts but that is also dependant on road conditions and YOUR driving style.

If the problem with the driveshaft has only happened AFTER you fitted the 18" wheels - that should answer your question !

[celicatrd]

Thanks Mick,

I think I will get my suspension raised a little to ease the stress in that area.

I have coilover suspension and was considering having a go at it myself.

Is it a difficult job?

[Mick24]

Not a bad job to do mate - just need some decent sockets,spanners,jack and stands and a pair of spring compressors to compress the road spring so you can get the top mount off safely and change the spring. Should take you about an hour per spring to do (including your tea and smoke breaks).

[celicatrd]

Cheers mate!

Will have a go this weekend....