Turbo For The 1.0li Yaris

[navygm]

so the only option is HKS turbo kit? as a kit....

do you stress the engine if you do this kit? cause the engine was meant to be standard isnt it?

and another thing, how much would it cost for a forged pistons?

thanks 4 d help :D

[biofotos]

I use the HKS kit since 3 years so I think I can contribute to this discussion with my experience. Although great kit , there are some little cons someone has to consider before buying it.

For the begining you have to upgrade the whole exhaust pipe with one of at least 50 mm diameter. Second you need (at least in Greece where the weather is hot enough) an air cooling solution. Third a dump valve (cause I like the sound )

The Fcon-mini fuel computer that comes with the kit, although perfect in what it does, is laying its function on two very sensitive parts of the engine : air flow meter and lambda sensor. The car is working constantly in closed-loop mode so those two parts have to be in perfect working condition. By default, air flow meters are not very good in measuring larger masses of air than those that they were designed initially.

Don' t take my words in a wrong way. The kit works very well but the air flow meter needs every two weeks to be cleaned. The provided HKS mushroom-type filter is far more "free" than it should, and the dust that is passing through it, clogs the air flow meter wires. I solved this problem by custom fitting the APEXi filter.

The lamda sensor is another sensitive part. Perhaps because of the exhaust volume or/and temperature, it tends to disfunction after sometime without any other warning (like a Check Engine light). The result is that the car suddenly and without an obvious reason, behaves in a strange way. Now, after all this time I identify the problem from my APEXi autotimer that stops telling me the Air - Fuel ratio and on its little screen I see "---" instead of three numbers for one or two minutes, while I am cruising !!! When I step all the way on the gas pedal and one or both of these parts are not in perfect condition, the Fcon mini can not "see" the sudden need for acceleration enrichment, the air fuel ratio is going too lean, the car "hesitates" to accelerate and with low octane fuel (95 oct) the knock sensor is chopping the power. Things are somewhat better with 100 oct fuel but the problem is still there. This problem is not solved in a proper way, I have already changed 2 lamda sensors until now .

The waste gate of the turbo kit is fixed @ 0,35bar. In this area (until 0,4) when everything is in perfect shape, in hard accelerations the a/f ratio drops to 12,5:1 which is perfect. But if someone (like me :D ) wants to explore (with the help of a boost controller) how the car behaves at 0,5 or 0,55 bar the Fcon mini gets out of its limits and a/f ratio rises to 14:1 which is not safe at all for the engine. The injectors are adequate. The problem, is with Fcon- mini. Don't tell me "don't do it then" since boost is never enough !!! The solution to all these (at least I did this) is to throw away the Fcon mini, buy from eBay a used E-manage with the pressure sensor and tune the car with it. Perfect now !!!

So what else is there ? You don't have to buy the HKS kit. You can start buying from a DAIHATSU dealer, the YRV turbo cast iron manifold (fits perfectly - around 150 euros). The 2SZ owners (P2 1,3 engine) can also buy for almost 250 euros (at least in Greece because they are manufacturer parts) the low compression forged pistons and the head gasket of the YRV turbo and go up to 0,8 bar safely The YRV turbo turbine is VERY expensive, leave that. Then you must buy a Garrett T2 turbine (GT2510 for 1,3 owners), a piggy back fuel computer(Greddy Emanage, Dastek Unichip etc) with its pressure sensor and the rest is oil and water lines and pipes (exhaust and intercooler). Of course you need someone to fit all these ( I know that labour fees are far more expensive in UK than in Greece). Even if that is the case, the cost should be lower than what HKS is asking for an incomplete kit (no intercooler, no exhaust, no dump valve, unsufficient fuel computer).

In Greece there is still a big number of Yaris Cup Racers so there is much knowledge on the Yaris. For example there are a few Yaris (1,3 and 1,5) with 4-throttle conversion, Group-A cams and 6 gear transmission boxes. Yeah, turbocharged and supercharged, too (all proud members of Hellas Yaris Club)

Did you know, all you P1 Yaris owners, that you can upgrade your brakes to TS ones without much money? You only have to buy from your local dealer the half part of the TS caliper (not the one half that has the piston on it) a set of TS disks (slotted - drilled for better results) and there you go

Is there any logic to all that ? Definitely not if you are not an adventurous-romantic (and a little !Removed! ) Yaris fun or you have your car only to go from work to home and vice versa. But if high octane fuel instead of blood runs in your veins, track racing is one of your hobbies and don't have the money to buy an EVO IX, then... B)

[navygm]

I use the HKS kit since 3 years so I think I can contribute to this discussion with my experience. Although great kit , there are some little cons someone has to consider before buying it.

For the begining you have to upgrade the whole exhaust pipe with one of at least 50 mm diameter. Second you need (at least in Greece where the weather is hot enough) an air cooling solution. Third a dump valve (cause I like the sound )

The Fcon-mini fuel computer that comes with the kit, although perfect in what it does, is laying its function on two very sensitive parts of the engine : air flow meter and lambda sensor. The car is working constantly in closed-loop mode so those two parts have to be in perfect working condition. By default, air flow meters are not very good in measuring larger masses of air than those that they were designed initially.

Don' t take my words in a wrong way. The kit works very well but the air flow meter needs every two weeks to be cleaned. The provided HKS mushroom-type filter is far more "free" than it should, and the dust that is passing through it, clogs the air flow meter wires. I solved this problem by custom fitting the APEXi filter.

The lamda sensor is another sensitive part. Perhaps because of the exhaust volume or/and temperature, it tends to disfunction after sometime without any other warning (like a Check Engine light). The result is that the car suddenly and without an obvious reason, behaves in a strange way. Now, after all this time I identify the problem from my APEXi autotimer that stops telling me the Air - Fuel ratio and on its little screen I see "---" instead of three numbers for one or two minutes, while I am cruising !!! When I step all the way on the gas pedal and one or both of these parts are not in perfect condition, the Fcon mini can not "see" the sudden need for acceleration enrichment, the air fuel ratio is going too lean, the car "hesitates" to accelerate and with low octane fuel (95 oct) the knock sensor is chopping the power. Things are somewhat better with 100 oct fuel but the problem is still there. This problem is not solved in a proper way, I have already changed 2 lamda sensors until now .

The waste gate of the turbo kit is fixed @ 0,35bar. In this area (until 0,4) when everything is in perfect shape, in hard accelerations the a/f ratio drops to 12,5:1 which is perfect. But if someone (like me :D ) wants to explore (with the help of a boost controller) how the car behaves at 0,5 or 0,55 bar the Fcon mini gets out of its limits and a/f ratio rises to 14:1 which is not safe at all for the engine. The injectors are adequate. The problem, is with Fcon- mini. Don't tell me "don't do it then" since boost is never enough !!! The solution to all these (at least I did this) is to throw away the Fcon mini, buy from Ebay a used E-manage with the pressure sensor and tune the car with it. Perfect now !!!

So what else is there ? You don't have to buy the HKS kit. You can start buying from a DAIHATSU dealer, the YRV turbo cast iron manifold (fits perfectly - around 150 euros). The 2SZ owners (P2 1,3 engine) can also buy for almost 250 euros (at least in Greece because they are manufacturer parts) the low compression forged pistons and the head gasket of the YRV turbo and go up to 0,8 bar safely The YRV turbo turbine is VERY expensive, leave that. Then you must buy a Garrett T2 turbine (GT2510 for 1,3 owners), a piggy back fuel computer(Greddy Emanage, Dastek Unichip etc) with its pressure sensor and the rest is oil and water lines and pipes (exhaust and intercooler). Of course you need someone to fit all these ( I know that labour fees are far more expensive in UK than in Greece). Even if that is the case, the cost should be lower than what HKS is asking for an incomplete kit (no intercooler, no exhaust, no dump valve, unsufficient fuel computer).

In Greece there is still a big number of Yaris Cup Racers so there is much knowledge on the Yaris. For example there are a few Yaris (1,3 and 1,5) with 4-throttle conversion, Group-A cams and 6 gear transmission boxes. Yeah, turbocharged and supercharged, too (all proud members of Hellas Yaris Club)

Did you know, all you P1 Yaris owners, that you can upgrade your brakes to TS ones without much money? You only have to buy from your local dealer the half part of the TS caliper (not the one half that has the piston on it) a set of TS disks (slotted - drilled for better results) and there you go

Is there any logic to all that ? Definitely not if you are not an adventurous-romantic (and a little !Removed! ) Yaris fun or you have your car only to go from work to home and vice versa. But if high octane fuel instead of blood runs in your veins, track racing is one of your hobbies and don't have the money to buy an EVO IX, then... B)

WOoW hehe amazing info!

amazed by how far a person could know all this! I didnt got the meaning of all info but many thanks

can I pay you a holiday to Malta and come to install me all this? :) cause it will cost me cheaper than exploding an engine surely! :)

[mcsky]

ooph, a nice chapter of info there, much thanx for that, sure that will be useful for many 1.0li owners, 1 question, would a de-cat help much on a 1.0li and also bigger bore mid section pipe from the manifold?

[biofotos]

For a N/A 1.0l freeing the exhaust wil not give you more than 2-3 hp. Leave the diameter of the pipes alone.

The chances are that you will ruin your car's power at high revs. Generally speaking, after the turbine you don't need an exhaust pipe. You have though to install one just for the excessive noise (and flames ) that your car will produce. WRC cars have only one straight pipe coming from the turbine and there is only a catalyst at the end just for environmental reasons (yeah right :P ).

My suggestion: change your engine with the 1NZ from TS. It will cost you cheaper and you will have the same power.

A better suggestion : sell your 1.0 and buy a TS :D

My case is hopeless. I bought a 1NZ engine and started building the first (as I know) Turbocharged 4WD TS

[mcsky]

thanx for info, doub ti be changing engines nor buying new car yet, just wanna make most out of what i have at the mo as i'm using it to build my no claims but i wanna have fun modifying as i'm going on in life lolz, money isnt really an issue as i know i will have money to buy anything i want when my insurance is feeling better lolz

[chris202]

***cough, 3S-GTE,cough**** and 4wd looked into it its defo doable, with enough money obviously. :)

x2 - even 3sge would be a good step up in performance

[Brolly]

hi biofotos could you list me some parts that i can uses to make a castem made turbo kit for my 1.3 vvti.. i want to be safe as much as possibel in terms i don't want to blow up my engine lol

i am looking for ~ 120 ~150 bhp

thx alot