Replace Crankshaft Pulley On A 7a-fe - Feasible Diy Job?

[13mmsocket]

Hi - my wife's 99 1.8 Avensis (7A-FE with aircon, 88000 miles) broke the alternator belt the other day. I limped it home and was puzzled cos the pulleys seemed out of alignment - eventually sussed that the circumference of the main pulley had separated and had moved out causing premature belt failure. I coaxed the flange back into its original position and replaced both belts I started it up and it was fine, but noisy at idle, however when I got son #1 to run it at 3000 rpm while I looked the flange migrated out again and ruined a brand new alternator belt after 30 secs. He's only 12 and was obviously having far too much fun to kill the engine when I shouted :censor:

1) Anybody seen this before? I could see no obvious point of failure on the pulley but then I've never looked at one closely before. It just looked like the grooved portion was a push fit onto the rubber.

2) Can I replace the main pulley with the engine in?

3) What secures the pulley? Woodruff key or Loctite?

4) Should I even think about this myself? I'm reasonably handy with the spanners but a long way from being expert. The job would need to be done on the street outside the house.

Any help or advice very gratefully received.

[Q.S.]

Hi - my wife's 99 1.8 Avensis (7A-FE with aircon, 88000 miles) broke the alternator belt the other day. I limped it home and was puzzled cos the pulleys seemed out of alignment - eventually sussed that the circumference of the main pulley had separated and had moved out causing premature belt failure. I coaxed the flange back into its original position and replaced both belts I started it up and it was fine, but noisy at idle, however when I got son #1 to run it at 3000 rpm while I looked the flange migrated out again and ruined a brand new alternator belt after 30 secs. He's only 12 and was obviously having far too much fun to kill the engine when I shouted :censor:

1) Anybody seen this before? I could see no obvious point of failure on the pulley but then I've never looked at one closely before. It just looked like the grooved portion was a push fit onto the rubber.

2) Can I replace the main pulley with the engine in?

3) What secures the pulley? Woodruff key or Loctite?

4) Should I even think about this myself? I'm reasonably handy with the spanners but a long way from being expert. The job would need to be done on the street outside the house.

Any help or advice very gratefully received.

Seen similar before but not on Avensis. The grooved portion should be bonded to the rubber.

Not sure whether it is keyed or just pegged but removal shouldn't be too difficult for a mechanic but maybe not DIY if you are not too sure of your skills.

The rubber part is an integral part of the pulley which is actually a t.v. damper. (Torsional Vibration)

The central bolt mounts the pulley to the end of the crankshaft and may be quite tight.

Can be replaced with engine in situ. Maybe try enlist the help of a local mechanic.

Hope this helps.

[cmia]

you will need to use an impact wrench ...

[Q.S.]

you will need to use an impact wrench ...

Not if you know what you are doing. :P

It is easier to remove with an impact wrench but when you replace it, use a torque wrench.

[cmia]

you will need to use an impact wrench ...

Not if you know what you are doing. :P

It is easier to remove with an impact wrench but when you replace it, use a torque wrench.

easy way = best

[Beagh1958]

To 13mmsocket,

This is a common fault on the Starlett models, pulley seperating. Pulley bolt very tight, once loosened you will require a puller to remove bottom pulley unless very lucky. Pretty straight forward, only 2 timing marks, but make sure you use loctite upon assembly.

Regards, Beagh.

[Q.S.]

To 13mmsocket,

This is a common fault on the Starlett models, pulley seperating. Pulley bolt very tight, once loosened you will require a puller to remove bottom pulley unless very lucky. Pretty straight forward, only 2 timing marks, but make sure you use loctite upon assembly.

Regards, Beagh.

Presumably Beaqh, the loctite on the bolt threads and not the pulley?

[richard.c]

Hi,

Think you may find the hardest part is undoing the pulley nut - if may be very tight.

Holding it in gear etc didn't work for me, (when changing the timing belt) , so made a bracket up using some metal bits from B&Q.

You need a stout metal plate with a central hole for your socket to pass though , then two bolts through the plate to lock into the 2 holes you can see on the pulley face.

The plate then needs a metal bar, about 1- 2ft long bolted to it, this will then lock under the suspension arm to hold things tight - you may also need a stong tube to act as an extension bar to your socket handle as it can be mega tight.

Similarly you may need a puller to get the pulley off the shaft - not much room to pry or tap it off - unless you are lucky and it comes off by hand.

hth

[gazza1286]

The pulley wheel can easily be replaced with the engine in situ. The main problem, as mentioned, it how to keep the pulley locked in place.

This link shows pictures of the fabricated tool required. As an alternative you could remove the starter motor and lock the ring-gear of the fly-wheel in place using a pry-bar.

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...8&hl=pulley

good luck. BTW you won't need a any puller to get the pulley wheel off the crankshaft - it will just slide off with a bit of a jiggle.

[Beagh1958]

To 13mmsocket,

Bottom pulley retained via woodruff key. If pulley slides off due to being on & off a few times in the past with no bother, then good luck to you. I think it would be better if loctite is placed on pulley bolt. Torque setting for bolt is 118Nm or Air-Gun tight.

Good Luck, Beagh.

[Q.S.]

To 13mmsocket,

Bottom pulley retained via woodruff key. If pulley slides off due to being on & off a few times in the past with no bother, then good luck to you. I think it would be better if loctite is placed on pulley bolt. Torque setting for bolt is 118Nm or Air-Gun tight.

Good Luck, Beagh.

I would stick with the 118Nm, a good 1/2 inch drive air gun will do 500Nm if turned up full.

[13mmsocket]

Thank you all for the advice, but given the cost of the new parts and the hassle I'm going to pass on this now.

We've been offered a very good deal on another (non-Toyota) motor and SWMBO fancies the newer set of wheels, so reluctantly I'm getting rid of the car - see my new topic for details if you'd like a nearly complete set of spares.

[Disaster Zone]

Thank you all for the advice, but given the cost of the new parts and the hassle I'm going to pass on this now.

We've been offered a very good deal on another (non-Toyota) motor and SWMBO fancies the newer set of wheels, so reluctantly I'm getting rid of the car - see my new topic for details if you'd like a nearly complete set of spares.

Where can I locate a quality second hand pulley wheel? I am able to source the tools required ie torque wrench impact wrench etc but, the Toyota dealer quoted me £190 for a new wheel!!!

My old one appears to have suffered the same fate as this chaps in that the outer has become unbonded from the inner which in turn wrecked two of the pulley belts leaving me with no power steering and no drive to my alternator.

[Q.S.]

Thank you all for the advice, but given the cost of the new parts and the hassle I'm going to pass on this now.

We've been offered a very good deal on another (non-Toyota) motor and SWMBO fancies the newer set of wheels, so reluctantly I'm getting rid of the car - see my new topic for details if you'd like a nearly complete set of spares.

Where can I locate a quality second hand pulley wheel? I am able to source the tools required ie torque wrench impact wrench etc but, the Toyota dealer quoted me £190 for a new wheel!!!

My old one appears to have suffered the same fate as this chaps in that the outer has become unbonded from the inner which in turn wrecked two of the pulley belts leaving me with no power steering and no drive to my alternator.

If you don't want to pay Mr T's price for a new one, then I'm afraid you're stuck with checking out the breakers yards and eBay for anyone breaking one for spares. Mr T certainly knows how to charge.

[spike22]

Hi - my wife's 99 1.8 Avensis (7A-FE with aircon, 88000 miles) broke the alternator belt the other day. I limped it home and was puzzled cos the pulleys seemed out of alignment - eventually sussed that the circumference of the main pulley had separated and had moved out causing premature belt failure. I coaxed the flange back into its original position and replaced both belts I started it up and it was fine, but noisy at idle, however when I got son #1 to run it at 3000 rpm while I looked the flange migrated out again and ruined a brand new alternator belt after 30 secs. He's only 12 and was obviously having far too much fun to kill the engine when I shouted :censor:

1) Anybody seen this before? I could see no obvious point of failure on the pulley but then I've never looked at one closely before. It just looked like the grooved portion was a push fit onto the rubber.

2) Can I replace the main pulley with the engine in?

3) What secures the pulley? Woodruff key or Loctite?

4) Should I even think about this myself? I'm reasonably handy with the spanners but a long way from being expert. The job would need to be done on the street outside the house.

Any help or advice very gratefully received.

Hi I have the same problem with my wife's Avensis and I have found the advice on this site invaluable. I found that I had to drop the engine mounts just a bit (above the pulleys) to get the crankshaft pulley out. Managed to loosen the nut with my neighbours help with a torque wrench car in gear and one of the kids pressing the brake. The holes either side of the crankshaft pulley nut are threaded, but only the last 1/4 inch or so, used M6 bolts then a puller to get pulley off. Went with the breakers (£50 3 month warranty) for a secondhand one as Toyota were £156 + VAT. Hope that helps somebody Thanks for everyones advice.

Spike22

[phishedin]

i had same problem on 98 avensis 1.8 gs Ijust welded the pulley around where the rubber was , been fine ever since.

[Q.S.]

i had same problem on 98 avensis 1.8 gs Ijust welded the pulley around where the rubber was , been fine ever since.

The rubber is there to damp out vibrations in the crankshaft - it's a torsional vibration damper. You run the risk of cracking the crankshaft without it.