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@ Konrad, I've read all about the cut-outs in your previous posts. Your above photos provide the best explanation of the problem, thank you. I read your posts in case I end up with an Avensis one day! Martin

How many years warranty would you like on the hybrid battery? For 2020 model cars Toyota have extended the Hybrid battery warranty from 100k miles/8 years to 150k/10 years PLUS if you have a Toyota service every thereafter (up to 15 years) they will do a Hybrid battery health check every year and extend the warranty by 12 months accordingly. 15 year hybrid warranty, name another manufacturer that matches that. and the price of Hybrid batteries have fallen a lot over time, now a Prius battery is just over £1200.

Based on another thread on this forum, be wary of leaving your car is accessory mode, as this, apparently, will quickly drain the 12 volt battery. Congratulations!

When I lived there, the A41 was the main trunk road south to B'Ham and beyond, no M56, lorries would thunder along, no 40/50 limit in those days. My mate lived in what was the Post Office/Shop on the junction, think it's called the white house now, traffic was non stop 24 hours a day. Waverton was one of the first villages around Chester that built new homes for the then new Vauxhall factory at E/Port, many happy memories there

Hope you are using a wind back kit like this - When you wind back the pistons, make sure the cut outs are in line horizontally with the caliper or the caliper will need to be forced to fit over the brake pads. The photos are of a Vauxhall Corsa VXR I did last year. It had the same issue as the Avensis where the inner pad wore quickly. piston in the wrong position. piston in the correct position Brake pad wore down at one end! Just like the Avensis, there is a small protrusion on the back of the pad. The protrusion needs to fit within the cut out of the piston. Follow the info and you won't be doing the job again in a long while!

Wikipedia, that bastion of accuracy, where data is only entered by neutral individuals.

Different scenario. Mitsubishi has been in trouble for a number of years and were badly hit by a scandal involving falsifying economy figures in their home market. Nissan bought a controlling interest in them in 2016. Concentrating on their South East markets, where they are stronger, should help rebuild the company. Nissan themselves are suffering from declining demand and heavy discounting (which has backfired for them) in the US market, and, as with Mitsubishi, big falls in profits. Nissan are also retracting in Europe - with plans to close their Spanish plant, etc. Mitsubishi's UK importer, which is a separate company to the manufacturer, has already approached other manufacturers to replace Mitsubishi (certainly at least one Chinese company) regarding distribution of vehicles in the UK. By the way, the Outlander PHEV's multi mode transmission was designed and made by GKN Automotive - a British mulinational.

From your description of high pedal biting point, the clutch is worn though not slipping yet. To confirm the master cylinder is leaking, you need to get a tissue and torch check the area where the pedal link to the master cylinder. If the leak is really bad, the clutch pedal will need to go to the floor. Also pumping the clutch pedal then brings the biting point back to a normal level. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3103_clutch-master-cylinder/1 The slave cylinder on the 5 speed 1.6 is external on the transmission, so easy to view for leaks, unlike the later 6 speed Valvematic which is internal concentric. http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2007/auris-hybrid-ukp/zre151r-dgmnkw/2_166510_038_345W/powertrain-chassis/3105_clutch-release-cylinder Again like the master cylinder, a leak from the slave cylinder would mean the pedal biting point will be lower!

I haven't reset the trip computer for a while and it has stayed at 4.0 l/100km, i also recently discovered that every time you shut the car off a little message pops up in the dashboard of the avg fuel consumtion, actually i knew there was a little message when you turned the car off but it kept disappearing after a split second i then realised it was because i kept pressing the brake so the message dissapeared lol. The lowest number i've had was today at 3.3 l/100 km but i usually see 3,5-3,8 but i'm not sure how accurate these numbers are but anyway, finally got my vacation leave this week and as i'm not going anywhere this summer (thanks covid) i've been going to the beach these past 4 days which is about 15 km away from my house and actually this trip is the exact same one i take everyday for work and i maintained speeds between 60-80 km/h. This road is considered a highway but because it's close to the city the speed limit is 70 km/h and it has lots of traffic lights so i get a lots of chances to take my foot off the gas pedal and let the car roll till i reach the red light so i get lots of energy back into the battery. In one instance i checked my battery levels just when i let my foot of the gas pedal and the battery had about 2 bars and when i reached the red light it had 3 bars lower than full and whenever i get going the electric motor pushes me to about 35 km/h then the engine comes in and when i start maintaining my speed the engine shuts off and i'm back to ev mode again. Pretty much this is the sequence that my car takes all the way till i reach my destination, note that this was when we were going back home after 5 hours to the beach and after a big amount of eating at a restaurant so i wasn't as concentrated as i could be as i was feeling extremely tired and dizzy after all of that lol.

Welcome to the club Jane