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I actually take a look at these MPG threads and snigger to myself the way people get very upset about their MPG The car is a mass produced product, made all the same, to fine tolerances. THE most important factor in getting better MPG is the driver and the quality of the fuel The way people get all heated over "My car is only doing X miles per gallon and yours is doing Z" or the other hilarious thread is "The range shows XYZ miles but that can't be right coz it does ABC to the gallon bla bla bla" I have a tip for anybody worried about range or if you are getting only 60 to the gallon when Joe Boggs gets 65................ Just fill the ruddy thing up when the car gets down to quarter of a tank, fill it, don't put £3 of fuel in and not see the range move There, fixed it for everyone, your welcome

Just a quick run over the oil change on the 21 plate Yaris. Because of very low mileage and buying it second hand, I decided to replenish the oil and change the filter. I’ve got a pit but ramps are just as good on a nice day. Bottom cover off allows a visual inspection of the lower engine. Nice and bone dry under there; It had started to discolour but as expected, no debris; Genuine filter of course. Part No shown and I always use a filter socket for removal and hand to tighten. Beautiful engineering with a spill preventing spout; Genuine filter pre greased; As with most Japanese engines, a one litre oil bottle screws directly into the oil filler; Double check there is absolutely no dust in the oil jug; I got my hands on 3X5 litres of 0W/8 oil off eBay from somebody who clearly doesn’t know how much it cost. £34 each - I’ll take all 3 thanks; I wouldn’t advise the normal vigorous engine clean but it got a quick do to cover another 12 months. SDS oil data. I don’t fill right up to the top mark but stop short by about 6mm to allow for fuel dilution.

Naturally, I'd second everything Tony has said above. Just in case you weren't aware, the Auris HSD auto, like all Toyota HSDs, isn't a 'traditonal' CVT with coned pulleys and a belt. Internally, it is completely different, there are no friction surfaces to wear out, or belts of any kind. Mechanically, it is closer to a differential than a normal CVT. Failure to change the oil won't end with catastrophic failure, it'll just wear everything out a little faster, which generally means it will eventually aquire a slight whine (at very high miles, ~ 200,000+) like a worn diff. The mechanics of the transmission are extremely reliable. There are no adjustments to be made or filters to change in this transmission. But it is generally agreed that it is worth changing the oil (normal Toyota WS ATF), via a regular fill and drain plug. It drives like a regular CVT, but Toyota call it an eCVT, or a Power Split Device. This link is for the the Prius gen 2 transmission explanation. Yours is very similar indeed, but the next generation. This earlier transmission is a bit easier to see what's what, as it's not been reduced in size, as your one has.

Obsidian blue looks fantastic in the sun.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Yes, the Auto CVT. I've been on a few uphills, but nothing very steep yet, but so far it was fine. Motorway driving is also fine. Once you are at your set speed, it's fine. However, when getting into the motorway from the slip road and also over taking, you just have to remember that it's going nowhere fast. But to be honest, that suits me fine. Like every car I've had. I pick my moment carefully to over take, so that I don't get in anyone's way, who has a much faster car than mine . Not sure if it's just me. But when I abide by the law and stick to 70mph, just about EVERY other vehicle is bombing passed and are clearly speeding and never a cop in sight to get these people !!

There was a tip on here quite recently. As soon as you go to Ready mode switch off the Aircon. I have started to do this, right hand button on the control panel. I can then get the car out and manoeuvre on the on battery. Even managed about 100 yards with ICE cutting in as I started up a short slope. All the other factors mentioned above may still cause the ICE to run but that tip certainly works too.

I'll go along with 450 - 500 miles. I've just topped up, £1.89.9 per litre! 376 miles completed, 110 to go (it said), and the brim to brim calculated was 68.3 mpg. The car was telling me 70.4 mpg. I still think these here hybrids are brilliant!

Why, when we have to pay the maker to have the car painted do we then have to pay the dealer to put the protective layer on? 😄

Good job done ✅

The stopping power of the brakes isn't in question - I think all owners will agree if you brake hard it will stop so fast it's actually a bit painful! The problem is more the car not always doing what you want or expect. I've always been a bit wary of things that abstract out controls and put layers between the control and the driver, as it takes away feedback from the driver, and it's certainly something I've noticed with things like power steering and now the brake-by-wire. 95% of the time it's fine; Feels good, brakes how it should, regen and friction brakes blended in seamlessly. But occasionally it doesn't and I'll find the pedal is giving me a lot of resistance, providing feedback that I'm braking strongly, when I'm actually not - I've been caught out twice by it and both times was only saved by the auto brake system (Which is why I don't want to turn it off despite it displaying false alerts most of the time and occasionally trying to make other people rear-end me ). Now I've learned not to trust the brake pedal force feedback (Esp. since I've discovered it is completely artificial) and to just keep pushing if the car isn't slowing as much as I'd thought it would, rather than waiting for the brake force to build as the car slows down like I'd normally do, because it doesn't in this car!

You can get the aircon o-rings separately. They're usually orange or green as opposed to black. Ask them for some more specifics as they should have used a UV dye to identify the leak area. If the pipe has a fracture or crack it will need replacing but that shouldn't really happen. However, as Derek has mentioned above, for the seals to be changed you need to collect the refrigerant prior to opening the pipe connection. Personally i would go to an aircon specialist as opposed to toyota for this

Nicely put @TonyHSD

That's good to know - They were saying they were going to stop using container ships and switch to rail for environmental reasons (Electric train is always going to be less polluting than a bunker fuel burning container ship!), despite it being a lot more expensive, so good on them for actually doing it!

This for the engine can be as you describe but can also be exactly opposite. I always wait 1-2 minute before driving off and in winter up to 3-4 minutes The engine is running but if you drive low speeds it will not propel the car and the car still will be moved on mg2 alone because the ice will be in warm up stages and only if you demand extra power will take over. Sometimes in certain conditions the car can enter into a “play mode” - constantly switching between mg2 and ice on and off. It is similar to what some may had experienced in older type automatic transmissions when the car can’t decide which gear to stay in and it’s switching between two gears ( 2-3, 3-2 for example). Very unusual and jerky behaviour. There were even members complaining about that previously. It’s normal but rare to happen and can be a strange thing to many Toyota hybrid owners. 👍 How to deal in that situation, simple, just floor it 😂👌🏁

EBay with discount code and Toyota official store. Bought many items this way and always top quality and service. 👍

Still sounds low IMHO. My Corolla seems to do an average of 56mpg but depending upon where you are driving it can go down or up - even had it at 80.6mpg after a short journey (3 miles) from my town, but the Hybrid motor was going more than usual due to my conservative driving. It is all down to how you drive. That said you should be getting an average of at least 50mpg surely be it on B roads, A roads, highway or in town driving? Regarding tyres I would put in the loaded tyre pressures and not the normal (told by a Toyota guy to do this) as this is far better for equal tyre wear as if you run on standard 33 / 31psi you will wear out the edges of your tyres regardless.

My alarm goes off every few months. It's cause is the dash cam sucker drying out, allowing the camera to swing on its power lead. I thought of glueing the sucker to the windscreen, but that seems a bit extreme. As anybody had the same problem and how did you get round it?

Final update - left it in Ready for 2.5hrs yesterday. After this the 12v battery seems to be charged (enough) and everything working as expected. Thanks for all the help!

My last 3 cars have been "cross overs", but still had a more commanding driving position than a normal car. I thought I'd hate being so low, but quite the opposite. That being said though, I am now in a touring sport which, whilst being lower, is actually larger in length then my previous cars, so could be why I feel safer in it.

Well in my case I got quickly into the car and waited a few seconds and there the little ******* fly onto the passenger window. So I guess lucky but did then open all the doors and waved a micro fibre cloth around to ensure that I disturbed any of his/her mates. When I’ve had it happen in the past I’ve never been able to see any evidence, since then no problems.

I’m on record of not believing in insect theory only to be proved wrong when it happened to me. It was the smallest flying bug but enough to set the alarm off.

Exactly

Insect….. yes really. Happened to me a few weeks ago.

0w8. Never even heard of that oil grade. Interesting to see the oil grades page. You learn something new everyday Great pics, btw

There are no firmware updates for the display audio, the navigation unit ties firmware with maps the latest (& Final no further updates being issued) update being 2.23.0 fixes being: 1.6.61 Launch Software for Low 1.7.1H Launch Software for High 1.7.1L When turning the ignition ON, the Touch & Go navigation system would not load the map and the touch screen would be stuck showing the message “Loading map …”. At the same time, none of the navigation functions can be used. Incorrect menu language. No fingerprint possible for a map update and downloadable applications 1.7.2H/L 1.7.3H/L (1.7.3=1.7.2+MAP) Concerns with the Fuel Application downloadable from My Toyota Portal. 1.7.4H/L Phone book not downloading 1.7.5H/L (1.7.5=1.7.4+MAP) Remove the speed camera information from the French road map 1.7.7L Repeating voice guidance announcement, especially when multiple turns are upcoming in a short distance. 1.7.9 L/H Navigation system crash and black screen 2.8.5a L/H Wrong route guidance for specific destinations in England, France and Spain. Going by your version there are no fixes just maps available for your car.

Hi Flash, would it be possible to also get this update to 850. Picking up a 65 Aygo X-Clusiv tomorrow and thanks to this thread I checked the firmware when test driving, it was 830 (I think). Would love it to be up to date!

Register with My Toyota app and go to estore. That will tell you what latest update is - but it will be chargeable @ £119. 🥴

Ok guys, so issue was sorted finally! Here is the back story to this issue and how it was sorted. So, apparently the car was parked up and functioned well till the owner went to drive off some time later and it cranked but would not run ( it blew the c/open relay in the fusebox ) The owner thought it was some issue with the key battery possibly and tried replacing the battery but dropped the immobilizer chip without noticing. Went back to the car, it still was cranking over but not starting, so he called the towing guys and they dropped it off at my garage . I investigated the ecu not having a supply from ignition and determined it was the c/open relay in the fusebox and got this replaced (complete fusebox from the breakers) This is when i wrote this post here asking for help! Cause everything else seemed ok now but the ecu would not trigger to start running the engine due to the immobiliser chip missing. Anyway so i contacted the owner agian and he said he still had the chip ( didnt recognise it was essential to the car to run! ), Gotbit back in the key and now it all runs great again! Thanks for all those who helped solve this issue i was overthinking it way tooo much being with it coming in with 2 seperate faults 😅

3 second hold of the on off button

I reverse out of my driveway and the engine always kicks in before I pull forwards onto the road. Hybrid control just doing its stuff. Not worried.

Yeah it's best not to worry about it. The 3 main causes for the engine to start up early are: 1) HVAC is on and temperature is set above external temperature - Result; Car starts engine to generate heat to raise cabin temperature to set value 2) Battery is below 40-50% charge - Result; Car starts engine to put charge into battery 3) Driver presses accelerator more than MG2 can provide - Result; Car starts engine to provide additional torque It's really tricky to not trip one of those in the morning unless you are a quite OCD - I've only managed it once so far

Perfectly normal indeed.

After standing overnight sometimes I can get to the bottom of the road before the engine starts & sometimes the engine starts immediately in my garage. I just leave it to get on with what it wants to do.

On a 1 year old car I would be suspicious of this, especially if other owners don’t report it. To narrow down the diagnosis: it happens turning in either direction or just one? Moving forward and or reversing? Car cold (off the driveway) or warm (parking after a 30min drive)? Judder on full lock is a known issue on my other car, it’s the wide tyres skipping as they roll (called reverse Ackerman effect). Reduced when I changed tyres from old hard ones to new softer ones. Not known on my old RAV though.

Really depends on a lot of variables Bob. Things like outside temperature, settings in vehicle such as aircon, heating, heated seats, etc and the charge left in the 12v battery and how long the vehicle has been sitting and what the recent journeys have been like, etc Mine often starts first thing on electric and quickly switches to engine and then back to electric. And often starts on engine and quickly switches to electric. Don't think there's anything to worry about 👍

doesn't driving style also come into it? If you're heavy footed for instance?

An optional winter pack with heated steering wheel, heated seats, headlamp washers & the better headlamps would be an idea. People could then choose what they wanted.

I regularly have to use full, both directions, locks on the car and have not heard noises. I know the sound and I’ve experienced it on other cars. Sounds like a trip to the dealer.

Sounds like a bad CV joint

Actually both sides of that case has a good points. Easiest way is to sell trade in and move on. It’s a new car and if there are any faults indeed it will not be passed to the next owner by the current owner, it will be Toyota to blame. And I will agree that latest models quality is not on par with older cars, but sadly this is the case with many others. Is it worth fighting about that and what the OP personal gains will be , only he knows best for himself. I had a bad car once from the same brand, and I had returned it to the dealer on the very same day of collection, only drove it 50 miles. I lost some cash but saved myself a lots of trouble. The only thing that I blame myself was that when I had the feeling that the car is not right I should have walked away and not proceed with the purchase. Lesson learned. Good luck to the op whatever he decides to do with the car. 👍

That's not 33 mpg it's nearly 43 mpg (UK gallons). That doesn't sound too bad. What were the weather conditions? Was it flat or hilly? What are the tyre pressures? The hybrid system can't work miracles. Moving over a tonne of metal at 70 mph requires energy and that means burning fuel. At motorway speeds the hybrid system just can't do a great deal to help the ICE. It doesn't have the power to meaningfully assist. I'd still expect over 50 mpg from a 1.8 HB (on the few occasions where I've gone that speed over that distance I do) but it wouldn't take much to drop it further. There's also the possibility that the dash is over reporting (although it tends to under report for most of us).

That's rather low but it will also depend on how you were driving. If you had your foot to the floor and driving at high speeds then this could be why it's so low. Most of my journeys are round town and this tank of fuel i'm getting 62.5mpg. On a long journey i would expect to get over 70mpg with my driving style.

My obsidian blue RAV4, looks different depending on light levels and sun, etc

I remember working in a phone shop and when a certain phone came out we had two or three people coming in complaining it was quiet but it was easy to fix. Just remove the screen protector that covered the speaker and mike ports.

That's what I thought but, you know 😐

Oh and I forgot to add: The hybrid aspect of the Corolla complicates things further. The car can choose to improve ICE efficiency by having the electric motor do some of the work. This can result in lower RPMs for the same road speed. Perhaps more bizarrely the car can do the opposite. It can put additional load on the ICE by getting it to charge the battery. This might seem silly but the additional load might allow the ECU to operate the ICE more efficiently. In this mode you're burning more petrol than you need to keep the vehicle moving but you're getting more energy out of the fuel you burn - the surplus energy is stored in the battery to be used later. It all comes down to the same thing: RPMs are hard to predict and hard to understand with a CVT and even more so with a hybrid. There's an argument to be made that Toyota shouldn't have bothered with a rev counter because it doesn't tell the driver anything useful and the driver has no control over them either.

It's perfectly normal for a CVT equipped vehicle and 'the way it should be' for all vehicles, if only they could.. A CVT offers an unlimited number of gear ratios (within a range) so the engine can be kept at the ideal RPM for whatever it is the driver is asking it to do. RPMs rising/falling are an unfortunate consequence of the limited choice of gear ratios available on most vehicles. A vehicle equipped with a conventional gearbox has to choose between 2nd (too high RPMs) or 3rd (too low RPMs). A vehicle equipped with a CVT can choose 2.34 or 2.45 or anything else in between 2 and 3. To be strictly accurate the Corolla doesn't have a 'CVT gearbox' but in practical terms it amounts to the same thing. The ECU will choose the best RPMs for the ICE and fine tune them as it goes. Under steady acceleration that might sticking to the same RPM or it might mean gradually increasing the RPM. It might even mean reducing the RPM although I've never noticed that happen on the Corolla. My previous car was a Honda Jazz equipped with an actual 'CVT gearbox' If you accelerated hard then eased off a bit you could keep the Jazz accelerating while the RPMs were dropping. It's best not to worry about it. Just accept that your Corolla's ECU can operate the ICE at whatever RPM is best for efficiency (or torque if you are pushing it) and let it do its thing. The relationship between road speed, load and RPM is much more flexible than with a conventional gearbox. That's why all forms of CVT are better.

remember to keep a smile on your face when they get stopped by the men in blue for speeding and you just go at your 50 mph.

I totally agree with you. Rarely happens that I over speed, and I always try to pay attention to the road signs, and I always complain about people who over speed, or not paying attention to the signs, but as I mentioned, it happend here and there that I missed the signs not because I wasn't paying attention, but I had to check lots of other things at the same time, which sometimes makes me miss a sign. My issue generally is as a foreigner I don't want to drive in a wrong way, and try to respect the laws to the best of ability, so for that I really like to have the technology on my side, and not to confuse me. The way that I see people are not very patient while driving, so I don't want to be a cause of an accident or such. Since I had an Avensis before, I could really rely the sign recoginition of that, and I was hoping Corolla would be even better which kind of disappointing.