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I always knew you liked having a good laugh!

I rather fancy a button labelled "nitrous oxide" on the Yaris.

I would have thought in your case it was hooked up to an Infinite Improbability Drive (Good grief try saying that 3 times fast after a few pints! )

My car has a "Sport" button. Yes, I did RTFM, and found out what it was intended to do. Never used it, not even to check if it works or even complies with it's description. On further checking, I found out that it is directly connected to the Flux Capacitor which stores all that potential energy ready for instant release when activated.

Has anyone upgraded there feeble horn on corolla ts, I struggle to scare pigeons out of the way, my old prius was 10 times better

Just had this "Hybid Malfunction, Visit Dealer" message this Saturday morning. I was less than a mile from Lindops Queensferry, so drove straight there. They read the code (Torque Damper problem) and reset it, ordered the new part under warranty, gave me a coffee whilst I waited and promised to email me when the part come in to book it in. Was in and out of there in maybe half an hour. Car is fine to drive without issues/messages. Happy chappie here. Hats off to Lindops, superb service, can't be faulted. Cheers, Trev.

I used the power button once when chased by a police patrol car, I was asked why I didn’t stop straight away and explained that my ex wife ran off with a police patrol officer….and I thought he was bringing her back…

Excellent - That's exactly the correct response from the dealer! Not keeping the car for months waiting for the part... That's why I wish Lindops had franchises down here - They were consistently top-ranking back when this forum had a dealer rating section. I think some of the dealers don't understand what the issue is and think it's unsafe to drive, but it's just a slight slip of the damper plate and I've driven mine for near 2 years after having the fault and it's not only been absolutely fine, it's also not happened again (And if anyone on this forum would be able to make it happen again, it's me )

I find you just have to make the judgement call in the moment, as there is no one-size-fits-all safest thing to do most of the time. In Roy's scenario above, I must admit I probably wouldn't have bothered moving over and just bombed past them in lane 1 But on other occasions with seemingly similar setup, I have pulled in behind such drivers well in advance, then done it 'the proper way'. I don't personally think either way is always safer, as although I have had people just pull in front of me in situations like Roy's scenario, I've had it the other way too, where I've signalled and begun moving into lane 3 to overtake and the car I was following just suddenly pulls out in front of me with no warning, so you have to be ready for moronic behaviour no matter what lane and which side you want to move to. The trick is just to always leave/create loads of space everywhere - I'll even drop back a bit to avoid having a car next to me, because my default assumption is all other drivers are gormless morons and it just gives me more reaction space

I think it's a japanese thing - It's a very polite horn, especially compared to the angry german ones!! PartsKing had one he was suggesting, but if he offers it, politely decline unless you don't like having ear drums

So when you pressed it did the suspension rise up.

Colonel bogey air horns at least I'd say. Or one of those really deep throated ones that they fit to ambulances for when people cannot hear normal sirens,or see bright blue lights behind them. Sound a bit like the fog horn on the the QE 2.

Hogging the middle lane is an offence, and you can collect a fine and points on your licence for it. In the ay you describe things, and if you are content to follow/join the hogger in lane 2, then your safest place is a reasonable distance behind him in lane 1. Approaching traffic from the rear will see the hogger in lane 2 and immediately move into lane 3 to overtake. Bear in mind that, by following him in lane 2, there is a risk that a driver approaching from the rear could decide to pass on the near side. This means that driver would be undertaking two vehicles and the danger risk increases significantly. If you are a reasonable distance behind, and are just pacing the lane 2 hogger, and he suddenly decides to move to lane 1, he would be no threat to you and you wouldn’t even need to brake. One thing worth remembering is this: If you drive in a manner that is contrary to the rules of the highway then you can confuse other drivers, which may lead them into making mistakes that may result in an accident. Keeping your own driving correct to the rules, and your intentions clear to other drivers is a 50% contribution to avoiding collisions.

I know what you’re thinking punk. But the best is when he’s so disgusted he growls.

Ah,got it now. A bit slow since I returned to my roots. We grow a lot of carrots and potatoes around here.

Oh the CX, a light press resulted in the “town” horn, louder than almost everything else. BUT a full press, the “county” horn was unbeatable. I once did it as a mate walked in front of my car as I was queueing in traffic, he jumped in the air and fell onto the boot of the car in front. I didn’t laugh!😂

I just did an oil change on my daughters 2014 mk 2, and used 0w20. The oil you have there should be absolutely fine as has been said. One of the easiest cars to do a full service on I've done in years.

Yeah, or maybe an Asian thing. They tend to use the horn as a means of moving forward. I think in Europe we want to make sure it's clear we're serious when we use the horn. I loved the Citroën CX, it came with both a trumpet horn and dual FIAMM compressor horns... as standard! Seriously "horny" car. 🚘 😏

It was more the laughing gas... (Nitrous is laughing gas! )

I've yet problems saying it just after drinking a glass of water 🙃

Isn't that a bit like having your new three piece suite shrink wrapped?

Rather than buy a can of cellulose thinners I tried dipping it in brush cleaner. It worked a treat.

Been caught out by the speed hump flash - chap from my left pulled out when he thought I’d flashed him. Managed to stop in time. Now watch for other traffic as I approach a speed hump. Now also very wary of indicators giving wrong signal. On a few occasions have had an oncoming driver take a short cut on wrong side of a mini roundabout and cut straight across in front of me. Here, the risk is great because, had the other driver taken the legitimate course around the roundabout, I would have crossed the roundabout before other driver had reached the proper position for making the right hand turn. Another trap on a roundabout is where a driver signals a left turn off the roundabout too early. So when you are expecting that driver to take the exit to your right, the vehicle continues onwards to either cut across your front, or crash into you if you have pulled out.

The only buttons they should be allowed near are branded Cadburys...

just a map update on a touch2 (glass touchscreen) is £120 plus the TLS update what is FOC late 2018 is when the new touch2 gen 3 comes in which has 2 silver knobs and silver buttons (no cd player) smells a lot like a dealer upsell to me

The only people I don’t like near buttons are Vladimir Putin, Joe Biden, Kim Jong Un and Donald Trump if he ever gets re-elected.

To be fair, the 2.0 version is the performance variant - It'd be a little bit like a GR Yaris owner worrying why they only get 30-40mpg when the normal one gets 60-70. The 1.8 is the economical one. But the PHEV mpgs are all lies anyway - They don't factor in the electricity being used, so it's like if I put in 20L of fuel, then added another 10 without counting it, and claimed I could do 120mpg. The only useful way you can compare different drivetrain types is p/mile - If you factor in the cost of electricity, esp. if it's from public chargers, that seemingly big advantage PHEVs have over HEVs is a lot smaller or even reversed.

All the "finders" I have checked to date, by entering the reg., have recommended 5W 30 when 0W 20 is the Toyota recommendation. Including Opie Oils. However, whether they have been advised of the previous errors, entering my reg. there now lists all 0W 20 oils. Castrol are still recommending Magnatec 5W 30. Yes, that may be used, but as mentioned further up, use 0W 20 at the next change.

I replaced mine with a set of PIAA Dual Tone SUPERIOR HORNS 330/400Hz. You can buy an adapter to supply the 12v, no need for a relay, plenty of space where the horn is and a ground point is near by.

I don't know what it is about Japanese cars but they all (except Lexus) come with pathetic moped horns. You can get Hella replacement "trumpet" horns with a Toyota plug on it. Draws about the same current as the original but sounds like a horn should.

@Cyker once travelling on the M180 in lane 1 I caught up with a van full of pax, bare arms, tattoos etc, driving in lane 2 and somewhat slower. Quandary. So I moved across to lane 3, overtook, indicated left, and moved directly back to lane 1. A wildly extravagant manoeuvre to comply with no undertaking which would have been much safer. There were only the two of us on the motorway.

I thought that we had this cleared up... Toyota have themselves also designated that it is MY24... in their online brochure.

The published WLTP figure is a pretty good guide. You don't say whether it is FWD or AWD. As you will be aware, having a hybrid Yaris, actual consumption is very dependent upon journey type. Mine will sit at 47 mpg cruising at 70 mph on the motorway. 45-50 mpg is a reasonable hope / expectation for an AWD ...

I use opie oils for my MX5's, here is their 0/20 oil selections Opie Oil 0w20 selection You can also search from your reg number or specific car make/model from the home page

I’m always pushing my wife’s buttons, once I didn’t see her for three days, my eyes did open, eventually, when the swelling went down..

Hi Hamza. Try Castrol or any good oil website most have a oil finder section that works off your number plate. If you using oil between services I cannot see how you use less oil by moving to a thinner oil.

Is there not a line in the service manual that states if you doing a lot of fast driving (motorway) then you maybe advantageous to use 0w30 / 5w30 sothats all I used for for 6 years on a euro 5 1.33 engine.

They'll set a pack of haggis on him, and string him up by the Bannockburns if he's not careful. That spelling is however fine for the stuff from the emerald isle.

I think Toyota may be a victim of their own success. Many people start their post with sentences like "I have had Toyota for xx years and none of them have ever gone wrong". Mention you have bought a Toyota and friends respond with comments like "they are bullet proof". If I bought a vw/audi , I would expect the dashboard to buzz or rattle, the cabin to suffer water ingress and to use far more fuel than claimed, just like all the ones I have owned. If I bought another Mercedes I would expect it to empty my bank account with frighteningly expensive repair bills and to be treated like a pauper by the service department for not having bought an s class. People who buy Toyotas just don't expect to have to do anything other than fill the car with fuel and get it serviced. This unrealistic expectation even applies to vehicles more than 10 years old, dubious service history and high mileage. As you point out, Toyota always appear in the top 5 of reliability surveys which is why people are so surprised when they do go wrong. The 12 volt battery issues I believe hit Toyotas most loyal customers ie older people who do little mileage and they should have provided an acceptable solution. Exceptional value for money, excellent customer service and reliability from Toyota are the starting point.

On Aliexpress you can find them very cheap.. that price/quality will do the job fine.

Well as I do 60,000 a year + fuel economy does interest me, price for a mid spec phev is same similar to mid spec corolla hybrid. No it won't hold its value the same but jf your a real high mileage user resale on a car with 300,000 plus miles is more dependent on condition rather than brand. I've used this car now without charging the main battery and just using as a hybrid and economy wise it's impressive, not overly impressed in how the hybrid switches from one mode to the other or the fact you never really know how much power your going to get with a set throttle position as the system seams all over the place running between electric... Petrol... Or both together all giving different power levels and dif depending on what gear it's decided to be in.. 😳😳🤔. Toyota gets bad rep for its hybrid brakes but they are far superior to this system. The kia brakes like a normal car until the gearbox has decided not to disengage the clutch when your coming to a stop a little juddering takes place until gearbox catches up with what it's been asked to do.

All done in less than 10 mins

Hi Michael,its also called serpentine belt it goes around various engine components, typically including the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and sometimes the water Hope this helps

Ejector seat is what I tell 'em.

It looks like you might be right Mike! I also checked the engine mountings and they are bigger with way more rubber around the main bolts so it looks like that has happened also on the new Yaris (I'd already detected how much quieter it is than my Launch Edition I partexed...) Checked the firewall insulation and it also seems a lot thicker than it was so it looks as if all the changes on the Cross have been applied to the base Yaris also which makes sense money wise... The windscreen is now a Pilkington product so I wonder if that is the "acoustic glass" also?

Hi Phil,if you're replacing the head unit with an identical model (8614002330), it's more likely to be a plug and play swap without the need for coding, assuming there are no changes to the car's firmware or software settings. However, if you're considering replacing it with a different model, ring a car audio shop or a dealership familiar with Toyota's systems to ensure compatibility and potentially avoid the need for coding or additional modifications. Ensure that the wiring harness of the new head unit matches the wiring of your car. This includes connections for power, speakers, aerial, and any other accessories. Check if the new head unit is compatible with other integrated systems,such as steering wheel controls, backup camera, or parking sensors. You may need additional adapters or modules to maintain functionality. If your current head unit supports Bluetooth for hands free calling, make sure the replacement unit also has this feature and that it can pair with your phone smoothly. If your current head unit has a built in navigation system,make sure that the replacement unit either has a compatible navigation system or supports alternative navigation options, such as smartphone integration. Depending on the compatibility between the new head unit and your car's systems, you may need to perform coding or programming to ensure proper functionality. This usually involves using specialised software to configure the settings of the new unit to match your cars.Hope this helps.

@Roy124 I tend to sit in the slow lane behind the trucks and lorries. I’d rather get where I’m going five minutes late, than get to a hospital in an ambulance or body bag. case in point, I was doing 55 in a 60 zone and was passed by an Audi driver who must have been doing at least 80 (an educated guess). I caught up to him a few minutes later after he got caught behind a string of vehicles being slowed by a tractor.

Not in my experience. I've had 4 MX-5's 2 NA's and 2 NC's with one of the mk1's an import from Japan (Eunos) and the others UK cars and all eventually rusted extensively.

This fella recommends Fluid Film, which is available in the UK, he doesn't mess about either, if somethings no good he says it's no good. A second, more in depth video from the same channel, both are worth a watch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiIym5JiMOc

I agree with the op about the poor protection underneath, and particularly suspension and subrfames, and there's all sorts of dirt traps that the covers don't really protect. I've experimented with various products over many years and the likes of Waxoyl are the worst (apart from old fashioned underseal) and just allow corrosion to carry on worse underneath. I've found lanolin based thin oils best, but must inspect, clean and keep repeating regularly, at least yearly to stay on top of it