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I collected my new to me little white 2010 Aygo today! The vendors, a youngish Portuguese couple, bought it new, for Mme to drive. Early this year she was given a company car, and the idea was their son was destined to take it over. Hence in Feb the new suspension, new alloy wheels and tyres. Seems he then decided dad was going to help him restore a Mk 3 Golf instead. Poor decision but lucky for me! The car is totally immaculate, showroom clean inside and out, and when I asked if it had the usual leaky rear end, I was told it had, but no more. The 3rd brake light and the bumpstops were responsible, so siliconed and now it's 100% fixed. I've hears reviewers bitching about "the gearbox" by which they meant selection wasn't to their liking. On this one, it's a really good box, I was pleasantly surprised, half expecting either stiffness through the gate, or rubbery vagueness, but it's as good as an Imp based racer. Nicer than an Elise. I found the front brakes surprisingly noisy....thought I'd picked up grit in them initially, but I think it's more likely lack of acoustic insulation. I started with 2 bars on the fuel gauge and 125km later we stuck 29€ worth in the car we'd arrived in, a Mondeo 1600 TD, but the Aygo still showed 2 bars. Later it dropped to one, and was flashing, so I put 10 litres in, and it then went to 4 bars. This is meaningless of course, but encouraging. Tomorrow I'll fill it, zero the trip (I now know how to) and then see how much it takes to brim full in a few days time. It's a very base spec, has split rear seat, but almost zero electronics, no bad thing, no aircon, no bad thing with 60bhp, and no GPS. Irritatingly it has no glove box door....can this be retrofitted? For me, it's a modern Fiat 500, or Mini-Cooper (S?) in concept, and feel. Eco-fun! I really am seriously impressed and now just need to control myself to keep it as that, and not go bananas and turn it into a blown Yoshimura TT. Calm....calm....think Zen.... Watch this space....;~ ))

Mine has side steps and mudflaps. Front and rear

Activated Carbon pollen filter, to reduce the odour (especially when stuck behind a diesel car) on the cold days, when air is taken from outside. Always used Hengst or Mann, whichever is cheaper at the time, both very good quality and the perfect fit. Got this one recently: Hengst E4959LC and it is much better at removing odour then the original from the factory. https://www.hengst.com/en/online-catalog/product/7809310000-00/ Can be had under £13 from a well know online auction site. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-HENGST-Pollen-Cabin-Interior-Air-Filter-E4959LC-Top-German-Quality/193161029914?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Toyota has two part numbers 8713928020 - plain 8713958010 - Activated carbon However, 8713958010 is not available in the UK, at least at my dealer network. This pollen filter is the same for all TNGA platform cars – Prius MK4, CH-R, Corolla and RAV4 MK5 Also waiting for the boot liner frogum TM413221 to be available in the UK. They are better quality then originals, very good fit and usually cheaper.

tbh do a dry and wet compression test if its down on compression i would look at putting in another engine in the car VS doing a timing chain kit and all the other items that are bound to need doing as for the rattling at start up its more than likely a chain tensioner issue due to bad/lack of oil if this is the case you are look at top end wear as well and vvti issues in the future (the vvti system needs clean oil to operate correctly) dealer servicing is very hit-and-miss, I can't prove it but mine was done by Steve wonder's guide dog i think

Tried the app you mentioned and the problem seems to have stopped

I will be doing a pictorial record of the errr....'conversion' from sweet innocent little eco-fun car to the full Yoshimura spec as I go along. The trouble being that at the moment we are bumping along the bottom of the weather/temperature fishtank...it was -4°C yesterday when we set off. As this alleged conversion is a very much tongue-in-cheek effort on my part it involves messing about with the aesthetics and that means paint....which unless I can get the car through the front door may prove hard work. I have no way of heating the 'garage' which is probably 600 or more cubic meters of space to heat. Here it is now in pre Yoshi form...as collected yesterday. Needs a very minimal makeover. Max spend threshold 25 euros. Nothing irreversible.....and I, as a doddering old git, should be able to find it easily in the Also carpark.

Thanks Tony 👍

I tried all three distances last night too and I tried ECO too and it was a little less eager to get off the line than using my default NORMAL, but I can still pull away smoother and brake smoother too. I guess this isnt really the intended use for ACC, but its still nice to have

Lol, these are Nordic winter tyres, not European winter tyres but either of those will make your car behave exactly the same way, it is because of the rolling resistance and tread profile. Even you change to eu winter tyres you are not going to notice much of improvement if any at all. This tyres look very good to me, if it’s me I will definitely keep them. Regards

Hello Frank - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

Hi, that is a typical behaviour of a car when you come from summer to winter tyres and you are changing the size too, even more noticeable. Your car is fairly new so no need to worry too much about anything and even if steering racks are different between the different engine sizes steering response will be sharper nothing more, take it easy with the steering. You need to get use to how the car behaves, probably with the time, and yes hybrid cars are much more worse to drive with winter tyres than with summer, they just roll differently a lot more drag that cause that feeling. All you need to do is to keep them at correct air pressure and allow more stopping distance especially in dry and warmer weather. When you drive on wet and cold the winter tyres are becoming more enjoyable and when you have snow and ice than you will be happy again. If that model comes with that size in any other engine sizes specs than you can easily fit them to your trim level, as long as your brake callipers allowed wheel to be fitted. Which Pirelli winter model did you fit? Out of interest. Regards

When a Toyota Hybrid goes through the warm-up process, one of the reasons it's excluded from providing motive power (to any extent) is that the timing is heavily modified to produce a lot of heat, during which time it is very inefficient at providing motive power. My RAV is the first Hybrid I've owned with an old fashioned temperature gauge and even knowing this I'm surprised how rapidly it reaches 'normal' temperature.

It's probably all very dependant on the journey. For instance the engine coming on to heat the cabin sounds wasteful but presumably it uses that opportunity to charge the battery. This could lead to more charge being available later in the journey where it could be a useful bonus. I've noticed that I seem to have a bit more charge at one point of my journey home than I did a month ago and can now go back to using the battery on a very gentle decline that I couldn't in October. Conversely though there's another stretch of road approaching my estate where I can no longer drift toward a roundabout on battery. It's not a lack of charge but with the colder weather it seems the electric system just doesn't have enough power any longer. I simply can't maintain 50 mph for the final half a mile unless I let the ICE do it. That's also noticeable going through a small village half way along my route - I now can't maintain 30mph through the first section on the way home. Luckily that's where there's a bad bend so most people will just assume I'm being overly cautious and won't hassle me 🙂

There's also some debate as to whether forcing the car into EV mode at every opportunity is a good idea or whether it's generally better to let the car decide when EV is appropriate. The debate arises from the fact that charging the battery is never 100% efficient. The theory goes that running the engine to charge the battery just to then use the battery to drive the wheels might be less efficient than just letting the engine drive the wheels in the first place. It's a complicated debate though because under some circumstances the extra load on the engine from charging the battery might move it into a better part of the power curve meaning that it can run so much more efficiently that it offsets the losses incurred in charging. I don't think anyone has ever confirmed or refuted this. For my part I'm willing to get the car into EV mode if I know I'm approaching a low power situation (eg; slowing on the approach to the 30 zone or as I approach the brow of a long hill) thereby making the car do it a bit earlier than it would otherwise. But I don't normally force the car into EV mode while travelling on a flat section of road at high speed.

I installed an app from the Google play store that would auto enable Bluetooth tethering as I got sick of doing it each time ;-)

Welcome Frank...enjoy the Yaris.

Hey dippy, Reading through this I'm also left quite baffled at what's going on. Since the DPF is new and the smoking is still there, why hasn't anyone even mentioned injectors, especially since there's an injector specifically for DPF (5th injector)? Since the car has 150k km on it, it's also due to have first problems appear with injectors. My manual states that injectors need attention after about 100k. And even if mechanics looked at data from all injectors it's still not a bomb-proof way of seeing if they're going bad. I think all they see is the pressure at the rail and whether a particular injector is compensating more than the others. It's still likely that the flow of fuel is incorrect or, let's say, the injector isn't atomizing correctly. I'm dealing with this right now where diagnostics show everything regarding fuel is in top order but the car is starting "laborly" even in +30°C weather. One or more injectors are thought to be the problem. Unfortunately you need to take the injectors out and put them on a test bench but since the fault is likely with the 5th injector, I think it'll be easier to remove. I also wouldn't write off the main 4 injectors as being the problematic ones.

Hi everyone It is with deep regret that i can no longer support people with Tns510 and Tns350 sat nav's that have lost their operating system due to flat or changed battery increasingly my email address has been exchanged to the point i am spending up to two days a week emailing the files to people and answering queeries so i ask anyone who has had the files from me in tbe past to step in and pass them on although i suspect the people looking for a quick fix are no longer members. Alternatively you can look on ebay under tns510 or tns510 and you can buy replacement cards from around £30 plus you get full use of your satnav then not just your Radio and Bluetooth Best Regards all David

The Sd card not only contains the map data but also the Tns510 operating system which is a file called Loading.kwi. When you disconnect the car battery, it looses the operating system leaving it dead in the water. If you pm me an email address that can receive a 23mb file, i will send you that file. All you need to do is drop the file onto a blank SD card 4gb and lower and insert it in the tns510. Switch the ignition on to first position and watch the screen load indicated by a yellow progress bar. When its finished, the radio and bluetooth will spring back to life. For map info you will have to buy a genuine map card David

If anyone wants to make Toyota more aware that EGR problem should be made re call item by Toyota UK and worldwide you can write to: Mr Jon Williams, President and Managing Director of Toyota GB, Toyota (GB) plc PO Box 814 Portsmouth PO6 9AY United Kingdom OR: IN JAPAN - Board of Directors Address - Toyota-Cho, Toyota City, Aichi Prefecture 471-8571, Japan Akira Imura - Chairman Chairman Akira Imura Vice Chairman Kazunori Yoshida President Tetsuro Toyoda Executive Vice Presidents Kimpei Mitsuya Tetsuo Agata Chiaki Yamaguchi Senior Managing Directors Toshiyuki Sekimori Kazue Sasaki Hirotaka Mori****a Shinya Furukawa Akira Onishi Masaharu Suzuki Directors Masafumi Kato Norio Sasaki Toshifumi Ogawa Toshifumi Onishi Fujio Cho Corporate Auditors Standing Corporate Auditors Shigetaka Yoshida Kakuo Ishikawa Corporate Auditors Katsuaki Watanabe Toshio Mita Hans-Juergen Marx Managing Officers Senior Managing Officers Takaki Ogawa Kohei Nozaki Kan Otsuka Taku Yamamoto Managing Officersl Yukihisa Tsuchimoto Hiroaki Asai Takashi Ito Toshiya Yamagishi Junichi Harada Mikihiko Okamoto Hirooki Fujiwara Yasuhiro Murata Yojiro Mizuno Masahiro Kawaguchi Susumu Toyoda Yuji Ishizaki Keizo Hara Kiyotsugu Kurimoto Masafumi Kunito Toshihiko Shimizu Koichi Ito