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Back in spring, I filled out a web form to test drive a 2.0 TS out of curiosity because I've started searching for a daily driver since the FJ Cruiser's monstrosity isn't fit for a small Spanish town. It is a bit of a story about how I ended up here with the FJ, and I could get into details if anybody cares. To my surprise, a day later, someone called from local Toyota and offered a test drive in about a week. It turns out they shipped a brand new 2.0 TS from somewhere else in Spain for me to test drive. I was very impressed with handling and dynamics, something I had never expected from a Toyota, now that I owned and drove a few. Then later in summer, I got a quotation on a top trim with a sunroof. Upon revisiting the dealer to pay my deposit, something has changed internally, and I was no longer able to spec it with Pear White (which in turn made choosing Manhattan Grey easier). Sunroof now came in a package with leather, heated back seats and, HUD. They have also downsized to 17" from the 18" wheels. Overall, about one grand difference. I was able to negotiate roof bars and rubber floor mats all around without a price increase. Finally, it is here, sadly not an MY22 as I was hoping but perhaps not a bad thing as I do like physical buttons on the multimedia and only use Apple Carplay. So far had about 150km of motorways and 75 in the city, my overall Hybrid Score is 86, and my average fuel consumption is 5.9 l/100km (47.8 UK MPG). I expected a slightly better figure, but it is still a lot better than 15 liters/100km in the FJ. The weather didn't drop below 10 C, so it isn't particularly cold. I am completely in love with the car; there's some getting used to, as "virtual" parking sensors are screaming at me when I'm getting to my spot in my narrow parking garage. Dislike how light the key is; it just feels very cheap. I ordered a metal cover from Aliexpress to solve this problem. Also wish there was a way to scroll between tank consumption and trip consumption. Other than that, enjoying all bells and whistles, adaptive cruise control, and lane-keeping assist make for a very relaxing drive on the motorway. I think dropping it into Eco mode helps. Kick sensor is nice and fun when opening the boot. I haven't tested the matrix headlights yet, but they do this cool light run when the car starts up. BSM and RCTA are pretty useful. I am not even going to try the auto parking feature. P.s. I've tried to keep it short, clearly I have failed 🙂

Yes, I have had the same problem after doing oil changes. I have the same engine and have documented my oil changes on this forum. I think the issue is the oil being so light (0w/20), and having to wait for it to settle in the sump. My procedure when doing oil and filter change is to fill the the correct amount, wait about 10 to 15 minutes, start the engine to let it idle briefly to get the oil to circulate, then switch off. Wait another 15 minutes, then check the dipstick by wiping and replace, wait a couple of minutes, then pull the dipstick to check the level. If I can't get a clear reading due to oil smearing, I will wait until the next day, regardless if I drive the car or not. Then I will check the oil level first thing. The Valvematic engine seems to be good with oil consumption, and I hardly need to top up between oil changes. It doesn't get dark either, and since I use my car a lot less in recent times, the oil even more cleaner between changes. So long as you put in the correct amount of oil, you should be fine.

Well it's exactly the right stuff for doing the piston seals if you were rebuilding the calipers, so stands to reason it should cope with a little bit of heat around the guide pins, I think. Copper grease is made with things like exhaust manifold studs in mind.

There is no connection from the under bonnet starting terminal to the 12v battery, when you connect power to the terminals you are sending power to the DC/DC converter just like the cars 12v battery however on separate circuits that do not join.

I managed it this afternoon, EV mode for the last 800 metres - but I needed a run up of 20 km, and a total out and back of 40km. While I was out I left the car parked in the sun, it showed a cosy 14°C starting the rerun journey, as opposed to the 6°C it showed when leaving the garage. RT average fuel consumption was 3,7l/100 (c. 77 mpg). The car definitely runs sweeter when it has a chance to be warm.

Not a Toyota, but Daihatsu are owned by Toyota. See: https://www.motor1.com/news/562439/daihatsu-mira-jet-engine-australia/

A bolt has a machined thread *and* a shank (a part with no thread) to locate the parts. Not as accurate as a dowel but does provide some location as well as clamping. A machine screw is exactly like a bolt, but threaded all the way to the head, no shank. Used only for clamping, not for precisely locating the part being clamped. Doesn't matter what tool it fits, if the thread goes all the way to the head then it's a screw (often called a 'set screw'). The other type of screw is one that cuts it's own thread - these are self-tapping screws (for metal) and woodscrews (for wood - go figure!). That's how I was taught, but we didn't all go to the same school, so opinions will vary ☺️

I have the same problem for the 56 years or so I have had a car.

Amazing! My 2.0 TS is coming in Manhattan grey in a few months. Really looking forward to it. The 17" wheels are the perfect size imo.

Very similar engines Electric systems were improved and reprogrammed to provide different responses

I got 65 mpg on 2.5 camry roundtrip (accounts for all elevation, approx 1400m) - 150 miles

hello there buddy you can get one of those devices on ebay there called a usb,aux adaptor plus you can get the newer one with bluetooth there a good job i had one in my last car .no need for cds all on usb stick great job. all i did with mine was buy a longer usb cable and just connected my flash memory to that and a longer 3.5mm jack wire and ran that to a hand spot on my car. but with bluetooth you hardly need 3.5mm jack but the flash memory for the music is good

The (removable) pockets at the back of the boot in the floor are great too. Lots to love about the TS boot. I used the cargo net today with my sons bike taking up much of the boot, it served to stop the handlebars protruding into the rear cabin. it’s great the TS has this, and all the storage pockets all over the boot

I had a strange one the other week. Our 19yr old Corolla passed its MOT but they said was I aware the reversing lights were not working (not part of the test on older cars apparently). I didn't know but knew they worked in the past. Well both bulbs had failed, both failures were identical and a new one on me. The filaments are intact but the filament to support crimping on one end has gone high resistance/open circuit in each bulb. You can see the while deposits at the crimping. Two bulbs and all good. Halfords were cheapest unbelievably at £2 something or other for a twin pack.

Joe, it's generally advised not to use coppaslip on guide pins because it's bad for rubber parts like the dust boots and sometimes the pins themselves are rubber sleeved. Silicone grease is the more popular recommendation, kinder to the rubber and better at keeping moisture out. Up to you pal, I'm not an expert it's just what I've picked up.

My Toyota dealer does not recommend solar charging with the OBD2 port. According to him, the OBD2 port is not intended for charging, but only for diagnostics. I did not find a charger certified for charging via the OBD2 port. If something happens to the vehicle - I will lose the warranty. The seller recommends with battery connection - impractical with rear seat disassembly. Or into the cigarette lighter socket - impossible - the socket switches off when the vehicle is switched off. Switching the socket to a fuse that is still live is not recommended due to the loss of the vehicle warranty.

To update and finish the thread for future reference. I have successfully replaced the seized rear caliper, and can confirm there is no service mode for the epb on my 2010 avensis. Quite an easy task to be fair with the help of a second pair of hands. Search for a video on YouTube, of a guy doing the equivalent on a 2006 avensis. Very informative. Thanks for the advice chaps!

Pah, only 37psi? Mine was given to me with all 4 tyres at 60psi!! PDI? What's a PDI?

Just looked up that model code and the ECU does support CC (NLP130L-CHFGXW) it also shows it as a manual and Not a MMT A MMT will be a NLP130L-CHLGXW this does not support CC Please PM me your VIN to confirm

Have you tried some of the online parts websites? If you punch in your car details these will normally have brake caliper accessory kits available and some of these will include replacement slide-pins and bolts, giving you the OEM and 3rd party part numbers to get you started, the two below are generally pretty good for parts details: www.buycarparts.co.uk www.autodoc.co.uk To the slide pin bolts, the ones securing the slide pins to the caliper ? I definitely would NOT grease those bolts, because if you purchase new ones in an accessory kit you will find the threads often come painted with an abrasive thread-lock compound, presumably to reduce the risk of them coming loose, so you don't want grease on those! I'd see if you can buy yourself an accessory kit, with new slide pins, bolts, rubber parts and these come with suitable high temperature grease.

Same here, but I learned that when you re checking you need to look for one continuing oil mark on the dipstick and where it ends there is your correct oil level, anything above is just residual marks from the tube. For cleanest oil level readings, best to park at level ground if possible and check your oil level next day, just pull out the dipstick and read straight away without wiping it first. 👍

Have a look at this; https://what3words.com/about

As Joe mentioned above, you can keep your existing stereo and plug a multi adapter (Bluetooth/USB/AUX/memory card) into the CD changer port. I am using one and getting most of the functions missing, including handsfree calls, navigation from the phone, when it cuts the music and give directions through the speakers, music Bluetooth or USB memory stick. I adapters were designed for your model and work on most standard Toyota stereos with the CD changer port in the rear, even my Mk3 T27 CD/radio stereo non-nav model. Here are my posts on the subject which also apply for the Mk2 T25 models with standard CD/radio stereo :-

I've searched just everywhere online that I can think of but can't find anything suitable. I was looking for something I could hang over the rear of the front seats. Amazon have a couple of possibilities but they're either too big, too small or look too cheap and nasty. Most of the ones available tend to be for use by children. As I'm going to be out on the roads working I need storage space for an ipad various folders and some other stationery items. I may have to resort to buying myself some sort of attache case and keep it on the back seat.

They are inflated much higher for transport, I would expect them to reduce the pressure though before the handover.

No need to measure? There are wear indicators on all tyres for the 1.6mm minimum tread inside the deepest grooves of the tyres they are like small humps? when you reach this point is time to change them and as above do in axle pairs or replace all 4 with same tyre ideally? Having 2 different kinds of tread on 2 axle pairs can effect noise and how car drives ( more friction generated by one pair than the other pair) mpg can also be effected for the same reason

3pm on 12th June 1993.

Found the rear suspension a little hard, checked tyre pressures and discovered they were inflated ready for a max load only on the rear tyres (+5psi). Made a difference adjusting the rear though, far more comfortable.

Very true 👍 Saloons has always been best passengers cars but they will disappear soon and give space to suv and mpv s which may make a return. Estates are cool, I like them plus hatchbacks but Corolla hatch is really on the tiny side especially rear leg room, otherwise nice looking car.

The oil fortifier probably increases the viscosity of the engine oil, which prevents so much of it getting past the piston rings. I can't imagine it doing any harm, so long as you don't flog the living daylights out of the engine when it's cold. I spoke to the service guy at the Toyota dealers about high oil consumption in the BMW-engined Avensis and was told that it was supposed to do that in order to trap soot particles and burn them off in the cylinders. I don't pretend to be a mechanic, but I've been servicing my own cars for almost 40 years and have never heard of that one! If that's the case, why doesn't it have high oil consumption from new? Why does the problem only manifest after 70-80,000 miles? Apart from a 2-stroke, I'm not aware of an engine that is designed to consume oil at the rate quoted. It all sounds like a bit of a yarn that the dealer is adopting as his official line on this. Any thoughts anyone?

That normal but they will not last long, perhaps few more day no more. Get a good Osram w5w bulbs and change them all with new. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Genuine-Osram-Original-12v-W5W-501-W2-1x9-5d-5w-Clear-Bulbs-2825-/351229021027?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Front ones are tricky and you have to undo the grill top clips located under bonnet rubber seal. Do both sides front and rear. 👍

Ah yes, I'd forgotten the nicety of UK post codes, they tend to identify a house, or group of houses on a street. I don't have that (dis)advantage where I go, but there plenty of places where the Satnavs are a bit lost. Around my way for example the houses are numbered by where they are on the street (but not always), with the reference point being the beginning of the street/road. N° 43 is not the 43rd house on the street, but the house that is 43 metres from the beginning of the street. The Satnavs are not that smart, yet.

I just love the boot space in the Touring Sports.

Hi, the problem with your brake discs is caused by rust as a result of very light use due to regenerative braking and low mileage., this is also the reason why some manufacturers like Vw are moving backwards to use drum brakes in their latest Evs. I do believe that all you need is some diy cleaning and lubricating the slider pins and all will be back to normal. Happened to all hybrids owners who doesn’t drive a lot or every day. Here an example what happens to a brand new rear brake discs and pads in one year time with minimal use during lockdowns. First picture February 2020, second picture March 2021 , I did clean them and back to new condition. Brakes need cleaning and lubricating every two years and it will last probably the lifetime of the car or at least 100000+ miles. You can request a car mechanic to do this cleaning for you. No need to replace them. 👍

Peter, my seat pockets, if I had two, would be for the road map for when the Satnav runs out of ideas, and my emergency waistcoats.

****UPDATE**** At the start of December I got my Avensis serviced and into the fresh new oil, I added a product called Forté 'Oil Fortifier'. The product aims to stop oil getting burned off by the engine and, in my case, it seems to have worked! The car has since driven about 2,000 miles (3,200 km) and has only required 1/4 litres to top up. (topped up when the car was back at Toyota on a warranty item - the crankshaft pulley, another common issue on this engine. 🙄 Worth getting checked out if you notice a chattering sound or rattle from the engine at idle). Although, I dip the car weekly now and didn't notice any drop in the levels. Nonetheless, 250 ml over 2000 miles (125ml/1000mile) is a big improvement and could be seen as fairly negligible. I'm not saying this is a general replacement to engine maintenance or corrective action and the long term effects on the engine I can not be sure of. These engine oil additives do also carry a 'snake oil' reputation, so I understand if this product just isn't for you. In my case, with my car burning so much oil, my judgement was that oil fortifier wasn't going to make the engine condition any worse. I found the product from this guy below. More of a BMW specialist (and a bit too persistent in his methods and ideas) but perhaps applicable to the 2WW engine. Thanks for reading. Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas on this James

Today I replaced any vacuum pipe that I have disturbed. Some were really broken on the ends which I think would have been causing air leaks. The large breather (9.5mm) is really quite stiff pipe and as such needs a different type buying. It fits, but it's tight up against the bottom of the air filter housing which is annoying. I have now ordered some thinner walled 9mm ID silicone hose for that and will try that instead. The small 4mm pipes fit nice and snug, but the little "clamps" that came with the pipe have pretty much zero strength to them which is annoying. Oh well! I suppose with the hose being pretty tight on the metal pipes it should be okay anyway I would think. I also used one of these to test the head gasket. It seemed to bubble through from the radiator, but didn't change colour, so hopefully that's a good sign!

Lock assy 2014 - 2016 69370-0H010 Striker 69450-0H010

The 1.8L in 2016+ has some modifications on the water jacket, intake, shape of combution chamber, and larger volume EGR and placed EGR after Catalytic converter to improve reliability and effeciency. The main improvement is the transmission that can deliver peak torque at lower rpm although total power is now 122HP instead of 139HP like in Auris but more efficient overal torque and power curves. E5 theoretically has 1.7% more energy than E10. It is very minor compared to driver variations. I just do not like ethanol because it destroy carburators on lawn mower and small engines equipments. I used to buy Marine Fuel E0, but it cost 30% more than E10.

I didn't suggest it was but nevertheless, I am not going to sit there waiting for someone at this time of year without the heater keeping me warm and the windows mist free either. Quite often after immediately filling up (and the tankful average mpg zeroing) I can nurse a 60+mpg for quite some time even in this weather but if I stop and wait in ready mode for 20 mins or so, that overall tankful mpg figure will plummet by 5 mpg at least in very short order! (in this sometimes sub-zero weather we've had recently) It's mostly because the system struggles to get the ICE much above 50°C to get some temperature into the heater.... (and NO, I am not going to sit there and freeze with no heater on! 😉)

Hi @therealhyper, Would you mind mmentioning on here or direct message me the comparison website and the insurance company you are uusing. Going the the same process and finding it challenging. Any help appreciated. Thanks, J

I've always used the cigarette lighter lines to power my dashcams, but because it's physically impossible to use a piggyback fuse in the Yaris fusebox and still be able to shut the fusebox lid, I usually splice it into the back of the cigarette lighter socket wiring harness with some back-probes. This is a LOT more work tho' as the headunit or even dash has to come out usually...! TBH any fuse-source that is linked to the ignition would be fine - most people use the cigarette one as that's the most obvious and saves having to hunt through the manual and fuse diagrams Dashcams shouldn't use too much power; Normally 5v at 2A, which is 0.8A at 12v, so theoretically a 1A fuse should be enough, but at least 2A would be better as it'd leave some headroom for power-on inrush current. Or did you mean the fuse-type? I'm not sure what type of fuse the Avensis uses but the Yaris used low-profile minifuses IIRC - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)

We are getting regular frosts in my location at the moment. I let the car warm up and defrost itself. It takes around 10 mins. I hate the sound of people using a scraper on their windows. It makes me cringe. I like mints and jelly babies by the way but not first thing in the morning.😁

The 4.4 had two stay positions - the lower one was easy to reach and lifted the bonnet easily high enough to check the oil and top up the washer fluid. The 4.5 is arguably harder, but I'm not going to ... 🙂 As for washing the roof, I can't see it so it really doesn't need to shine! ... 😉

iPhone's video quality is great, but Apple usually doesn't care about the non-Apple folks.. 😉 Here we go... my22_corolla_infotaiment.mp4

Not sure if this what you want but go to the car configurator and at step 3 it will give you an estimated delivery time as below.

Yep, it’s a HEV and no deposit paid yet. Under Motability I have to pay an advance payment (AP) on the day of delivery. Unfortunately, since the order is going to have to be renewed, the AP will change and will be for more cash no doubt! Very disappointed.

I got a call yesterday from my dealer with the following news. The current build run of the RAV is coming to an end (RX7). The next production run will be the new version of RAV 4 (RX8). Apparently all orders that are designated ‘fleet’ orders which includes Motability orders that have not been given a build date will have to be reordered!! I am a bit miffed now ho hum

As it was under load It's likely to be the clutch, what is the mileage on the car, the clutch actuator can cause problems with the MMT by not releasing the clutch fully does the car still creep from a stand still ? The clutch maybe worn and it just needs recalibrating

If you wasn’t burning oil before the service 6 weeks ago and now its dry, it must have leaked either from the sump plug or the oil filter when you changed it. Have you checked the filter seal and the plug washer?