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Back in spring, I filled out a web form to test drive a 2.0 TS out of curiosity because I've started searching for a daily driver since the FJ Cruiser's monstrosity isn't fit for a small Spanish town. It is a bit of a story about how I ended up here with the FJ, and I could get into details if anybody cares. To my surprise, a day later, someone called from local Toyota and offered a test drive in about a week. It turns out they shipped a brand new 2.0 TS from somewhere else in Spain for me to test drive. I was very impressed with handling and dynamics, something I had never expected from a Toyota, now that I owned and drove a few. Then later in summer, I got a quotation on a top trim with a sunroof. Upon revisiting the dealer to pay my deposit, something has changed internally, and I was no longer able to spec it with Pear White (which in turn made choosing Manhattan Grey easier). Sunroof now came in a package with leather, heated back seats and, HUD. They have also downsized to 17" from the 18" wheels. Overall, about one grand difference. I was able to negotiate roof bars and rubber floor mats all around without a price increase. Finally, it is here, sadly not an MY22 as I was hoping but perhaps not a bad thing as I do like physical buttons on the multimedia and only use Apple Carplay. So far had about 150km of motorways and 75 in the city, my overall Hybrid Score is 86, and my average fuel consumption is 5.9 l/100km (47.8 UK MPG). I expected a slightly better figure, but it is still a lot better than 15 liters/100km in the FJ. The weather didn't drop below 10 C, so it isn't particularly cold. I am completely in love with the car; there's some getting used to, as "virtual" parking sensors are screaming at me when I'm getting to my spot in my narrow parking garage. Dislike how light the key is; it just feels very cheap. I ordered a metal cover from Aliexpress to solve this problem. Also wish there was a way to scroll between tank consumption and trip consumption. Other than that, enjoying all bells and whistles, adaptive cruise control, and lane-keeping assist make for a very relaxing drive on the motorway. I think dropping it into Eco mode helps. Kick sensor is nice and fun when opening the boot. I haven't tested the matrix headlights yet, but they do this cool light run when the car starts up. BSM and RCTA are pretty useful. I am not even going to try the auto parking feature. P.s. I've tried to keep it short, clearly I have failed 🙂

Yes, I have had the same problem after doing oil changes. I have the same engine and have documented my oil changes on this forum. I think the issue is the oil being so light (0w/20), and having to wait for it to settle in the sump. My procedure when doing oil and filter change is to fill the the correct amount, wait about 10 to 15 minutes, start the engine to let it idle briefly to get the oil to circulate, then switch off. Wait another 15 minutes, then check the dipstick by wiping and replace, wait a couple of minutes, then pull the dipstick to check the level. If I can't get a clear reading due to oil smearing, I will wait until the next day, regardless if I drive the car or not. Then I will check the oil level first thing. The Valvematic engine seems to be good with oil consumption, and I hardly need to top up between oil changes. It doesn't get dark either, and since I use my car a lot less in recent times, the oil even more cleaner between changes. So long as you put in the correct amount of oil, you should be fine.

Well it's exactly the right stuff for doing the piston seals if you were rebuilding the calipers, so stands to reason it should cope with a little bit of heat around the guide pins, I think. Copper grease is made with things like exhaust manifold studs in mind.

There is no connection from the under bonnet starting terminal to the 12v battery, when you connect power to the terminals you are sending power to the DC/DC converter just like the cars 12v battery however on separate circuits that do not join.

I managed it this afternoon, EV mode for the last 800 metres - but I needed a run up of 20 km, and a total out and back of 40km. While I was out I left the car parked in the sun, it showed a cosy 14°C starting the rerun journey, as opposed to the 6°C it showed when leaving the garage. RT average fuel consumption was 3,7l/100 (c. 77 mpg). The car definitely runs sweeter when it has a chance to be warm.

Not a Toyota, but Daihatsu are owned by Toyota. See: https://www.motor1.com/news/562439/daihatsu-mira-jet-engine-australia/

A bolt has a machined thread *and* a shank (a part with no thread) to locate the parts. Not as accurate as a dowel but does provide some location as well as clamping. A machine screw is exactly like a bolt, but threaded all the way to the head, no shank. Used only for clamping, not for precisely locating the part being clamped. Doesn't matter what tool it fits, if the thread goes all the way to the head then it's a screw (often called a 'set screw'). The other type of screw is one that cuts it's own thread - these are self-tapping screws (for metal) and woodscrews (for wood - go figure!). That's how I was taught, but we didn't all go to the same school, so opinions will vary ☺️

I have the same problem for the 56 years or so I have had a car.

Amazing! My 2.0 TS is coming in Manhattan grey in a few months. Really looking forward to it. The 17" wheels are the perfect size imo.

Very similar engines Electric systems were improved and reprogrammed to provide different responses

I got 65 mpg on 2.5 camry roundtrip (accounts for all elevation, approx 1400m) - 150 miles

hello there buddy you can get one of those devices on ebay there called a usb,aux adaptor plus you can get the newer one with bluetooth there a good job i had one in my last car .no need for cds all on usb stick great job. all i did with mine was buy a longer usb cable and just connected my flash memory to that and a longer 3.5mm jack wire and ran that to a hand spot on my car. but with bluetooth you hardly need 3.5mm jack but the flash memory for the music is good

The (removable) pockets at the back of the boot in the floor are great too. Lots to love about the TS boot. I used the cargo net today with my sons bike taking up much of the boot, it served to stop the handlebars protruding into the rear cabin. it’s great the TS has this, and all the storage pockets all over the boot

I had a strange one the other week. Our 19yr old Corolla passed its MOT but they said was I aware the reversing lights were not working (not part of the test on older cars apparently). I didn't know but knew they worked in the past. Well both bulbs had failed, both failures were identical and a new one on me. The filaments are intact but the filament to support crimping on one end has gone high resistance/open circuit in each bulb. You can see the while deposits at the crimping. Two bulbs and all good. Halfords were cheapest unbelievably at £2 something or other for a twin pack.

Going from a straight six BMW diesel to a 4 pot VAG unit, the loss of refinement (not to mention power) was substantial and not worth it for the mere 5mpg I gained in economy IMO. Sorry to sound like a snob, but I have to agree with the others who say a six is a much better choice for refinement in a diesel engine, budget permitting. Four cylinder petrols are much nicer than their diesel equivalent, which is why small diesels are still pretty much non-existent in the US where fuel is still relatively cheap. The nice thing about a straight six is they are inherently balanced without the need for any weighted shafts etc. The only other commonly used configuration that can do that is V12, which is obviously even more of a dying breed. Not even a V8 can balance itself.

Water pump seems like the most obvious item missing from your list. Some engines suffered from external head gasket leaks, which are not a complete disaster as long as you maintain the level.

Thanks all, glad it isn't just me. Whilst I am an (enthusiastic) amateur mechanic, I have serviced all my cars, all my life (in my mid 50's now), so have a pretty good grasp on the basics. I have had, literally, dozens of cars over the years and have never come across this before, to this extent. My previous car was a 2.0d Jaguar X type and you had to dip, wipe, dip, wipe (no sniggering in the back there!) over and over again, but, eventually, when the tube cleared, you could get a good, honest reading. I tried and tried yesterday, to the point that my neighbours must have thought "he's lost it (again)". No joy. Tried again today, again, no joy. As mentioned above, the oil is now so clean you can hardly see it on there in any case. Hey ho, live and learn!

When you say the revs cut out, do you mean the rev counter drops to zero, or do you mean you lose power as though you've taken your foot off? If you're losing the rev counter completely then the crank sensor might be the culprit, but it's better not to speculate without knowing all the facts.

A proper surround does not need any cutting Do not cut any wires, the Sony uses standard ISO the one with 8 pins is for speakers, the Plugs in the car are standard Toyota 6 pins for the speakers on the 6 pin and the other 2 are on the 10 pin the Adapters fit many cars What I quoted above is correct for your Yaris and gives the best value - connects2 do not list every car and every year, the factory radio uses a 10 + 6 for power and speakers and a 28 pin for Audio controls Fascia - CT23TY91 this clips into the standard frame eg. 55405-0D620 I have fitted plenty of radios over the last 20+ years

Joe, it's generally advised not to use coppaslip on guide pins because it's bad for rubber parts like the dust boots and sometimes the pins themselves are rubber sleeved. Silicone grease is the more popular recommendation, kinder to the rubber and better at keeping moisture out. Up to you pal, I'm not an expert it's just what I've picked up.

oops, a bit quick there. Now realise was probably a tongue in cheek statement!

I’ve driven the attrage sedan and let me assure you that you are better off without its existence. the Yaris sedan is a Mazda 2 demio aka sedan not a bad car but ultimately less practical but slightly more comfy for long distance.

Hi and welcome 🙏 If you drive your hybrid Toyota over an hour every day there is no reason to be worried about your 12v battery, this is enough time for the car to recharge the battery and to function as usual. Going in holidays is also not an issue if previously the car has been used as mentioned, but if you are still worrying your battery may get flat there are solar powered battery chargers that connects to the obd 2 port or battery directly and they keep the car battery topped up when the car is not in use.

Pah, only 37psi? Mine was given to me with all 4 tyres at 60psi!! PDI? What's a PDI?

So you're the reason I've not seen it🤣😂 I think toyota have a secret manufacturing plant somewhere on Mars where mine is built but waiting for transport to earth. 🤔 wonder how long shipping will take🛸🚀 A mere 40 million miles, maybe Christmas 2032🤣😂

Both the Proace and Proace City are built by Stellantis.

What.Three.Words is a location App. It will define your location to a 10m square anywhere in the world. Most emergency services can use it to find you. "I'm in a ditch about 5 miles past a roundabout" is not as useful. You do of course need a mobile phone. I am at: ///plump.prompts.couches 😉

Have a look at this; https://what3words.com/about

I've searched just everywhere online that I can think of but can't find anything suitable. I was looking for something I could hang over the rear of the front seats. Amazon have a couple of possibilities but they're either too big, too small or look too cheap and nasty. Most of the ones available tend to be for use by children. As I'm going to be out on the roads working I need storage space for an ipad various folders and some other stationery items. I may have to resort to buying myself some sort of attache case and keep it on the back seat.

They are inflated much higher for transport, I would expect them to reduce the pressure though before the handover.

No need to measure? There are wear indicators on all tyres for the 1.6mm minimum tread inside the deepest grooves of the tyres they are like small humps? when you reach this point is time to change them and as above do in axle pairs or replace all 4 with same tyre ideally? Having 2 different kinds of tread on 2 axle pairs can effect noise and how car drives ( more friction generated by one pair than the other pair) mpg can also be effected for the same reason

That’s a similar profile to my usage. The answer is “it depends” on the route profile. Clearly if you start out by going up hill you are more likely to have the ICE running, if you start off down hill, the opposite applies. A significant factor is ambient temperature, the colder it is and the more you want to be cosy in the car the more the ICE will run. Around the village I can get about 55% EV time. Rarely, or not at all even, will my Yaris IV be in EV mode for the first start of the day. Coming home is essentially an uphill run of 800 metres. I try to get that segment done in EV mode, the car does it maybe 5% of the time in 100% EV mode, but the other 95% of the time the ICE comes on over a steeper 20 metre stretch. I treat it as a game.

3pm on 12th June 1993.

Found the rear suspension a little hard, checked tyre pressures and discovered they were inflated ready for a max load only on the rear tyres (+5psi). Made a difference adjusting the rear though, far more comfortable.

Very true 👍 Saloons has always been best passengers cars but they will disappear soon and give space to suv and mpv s which may make a return. Estates are cool, I like them plus hatchbacks but Corolla hatch is really on the tiny side especially rear leg room, otherwise nice looking car.

That normal but they will not last long, perhaps few more day no more. Get a good Osram w5w bulbs and change them all with new. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Genuine-Osram-Original-12v-W5W-501-W2-1x9-5d-5w-Clear-Bulbs-2825-/351229021027?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Front ones are tricky and you have to undo the grill top clips located under bonnet rubber seal. Do both sides front and rear. 👍

Ah yes, I'd forgotten the nicety of UK post codes, they tend to identify a house, or group of houses on a street. I don't have that (dis)advantage where I go, but there plenty of places where the Satnavs are a bit lost. Around my way for example the houses are numbered by where they are on the street (but not always), with the reference point being the beginning of the street/road. N° 43 is not the 43rd house on the street, but the house that is 43 metres from the beginning of the street. The Satnavs are not that smart, yet.

I just love the boot space in the Touring Sports.

Hi, the problem with your brake discs is caused by rust as a result of very light use due to regenerative braking and low mileage., this is also the reason why some manufacturers like Vw are moving backwards to use drum brakes in their latest Evs. I do believe that all you need is some diy cleaning and lubricating the slider pins and all will be back to normal. Happened to all hybrids owners who doesn’t drive a lot or every day. Here an example what happens to a brand new rear brake discs and pads in one year time with minimal use during lockdowns. First picture February 2020, second picture March 2021 , I did clean them and back to new condition. Brakes need cleaning and lubricating every two years and it will last probably the lifetime of the car or at least 100000+ miles. You can request a car mechanic to do this cleaning for you. No need to replace them. 👍

Peter, my seat pockets, if I had two, would be for the road map for when the Satnav runs out of ideas, and my emergency waistcoats.

The 1.8L in 2016+ has some modifications on the water jacket, intake, shape of combution chamber, and larger volume EGR and placed EGR after Catalytic converter to improve reliability and effeciency. The main improvement is the transmission that can deliver peak torque at lower rpm although total power is now 122HP instead of 139HP like in Auris but more efficient overal torque and power curves. E5 theoretically has 1.7% more energy than E10. It is very minor compared to driver variations. I just do not like ethanol because it destroy carburators on lawn mower and small engines equipments. I used to buy Marine Fuel E0, but it cost 30% more than E10.

I didn't suggest it was but nevertheless, I am not going to sit there waiting for someone at this time of year without the heater keeping me warm and the windows mist free either. Quite often after immediately filling up (and the tankful average mpg zeroing) I can nurse a 60+mpg for quite some time even in this weather but if I stop and wait in ready mode for 20 mins or so, that overall tankful mpg figure will plummet by 5 mpg at least in very short order! (in this sometimes sub-zero weather we've had recently) It's mostly because the system struggles to get the ICE much above 50°C to get some temperature into the heater.... (and NO, I am not going to sit there and freeze with no heater on! 😉)

I can only advise this : About once a week leave it in ready mode for an hour. It's the short journies that kill the battery. So, if you've done a couple of short drives then - next day - give it an hour in ready mode, and that should last a week or so. The key is "ready" mode really. If you wash the car yourself, leave it in ready mode, the engine will only come on a couple of times over an hour. Same if you put the car in the garage, don't switch off when you get out to open the garage door. It seems to me that short periods in Ready mode deplete the battery, but longer periods in ready mode keep it topped up.

Hi @therealhyper, Would you mind mmentioning on here or direct message me the comparison website and the insurance company you are uusing. Going the the same process and finding it challenging. Any help appreciated. Thanks, J

The 4.4 had two stay positions - the lower one was easy to reach and lifted the bonnet easily high enough to check the oil and top up the washer fluid. The 4.5 is arguably harder, but I'm not going to ... 🙂 As for washing the roof, I can't see it so it really doesn't need to shine! ... 😉

Not sure if this what you want but go to the car configurator and at step 3 it will give you an estimated delivery time as below.

Yep, it’s a HEV and no deposit paid yet. Under Motability I have to pay an advance payment (AP) on the day of delivery. Unfortunately, since the order is going to have to be renewed, the AP will change and will be for more cash no doubt! Very disappointed.

I got a call yesterday from my dealer with the following news. The current build run of the RAV is coming to an end (RX7). The next production run will be the new version of RAV 4 (RX8). Apparently all orders that are designated ‘fleet’ orders which includes Motability orders that have not been given a build date will have to be reordered!! I am a bit miffed now ho hum

As it was under load It's likely to be the clutch, what is the mileage on the car, the clutch actuator can cause problems with the MMT by not releasing the clutch fully does the car still creep from a stand still ? The clutch maybe worn and it just needs recalibrating

I have is a mini VCI J2534 OBD2 to USB cable, that came with the Techstream software 6 years ago. It works fine, but it was a little risk at the time. Apparently there are some slight variations, but I don't know the details. I have had no issues connecting to any Toyota I tried it with - Avensis '57 plate 1.8 T25 and '58 plate 1.8 T27 (my car), Mk2 Prius, Auris 2010 hybrid and Verso 2010, with same Valvematic 1.8 engine as my car. Each time it finds the cause of any warnings and completely removes cautions so long any required fixes are completed.