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Finally picked up today after exactly 6 months waiting to the day. Dead chuffed 🙂

Your buyers remorse can't be as bad as Fourbanks' "bought from the wrong marque, everything about the car is wrong, I didn't see this coming, but I'll make a thread about every little snag" remorse 😁

Had a meeting with DP today and had a lengthy discussion about the issues I’ve experienced. He thought the car as it is today is in spec. Not going to disagree with him entirely as it has been adjusted, but just not to the standard I expect. We discussed rejection of car. He wanted car back there and then; expected me to pay the new higher price for a new one, then wait 6/8 months, then expect the new car to be of similar standard. At this point I made it clear what I expected! 🤷🏼‍♂️😡 We agreed rejection was not the way forward, so they offered me a level of a “Goodwill gesture”. First service free - which is already paid for via sales. Errr, no.🤷🏼‍♂️ So I’ve managed to get a front dashcam and rear chrome scuff plate supplied and fitted for free. Case closed. Thanks for all your input and support over the last few months/weeks. 👍

Thanks for all the advice folks. It is now running at 4.7l/100km (60mpg) happy with this

Having read some of your posts, maybe best to just trade it in for something else that fits your requirements. Prices for nearly new cars are still pretty high so you may not lose too much. Life is too short to be picking fault after fault in your new car, sounds like you will never be happy with this one.

I personally would take more care or suffer the consequences. Stopped sweating the small stuff long time ago. But that's just me - just as well we are all different. I hope you receive the justice you think you deserve Adrian.

Good Choice ! I got the same car. Just with the option black wheels. I'm gutted I missed out on the red stitched seats though. They stopped doing them when I got mine.

If you are minded, I think it's worth sending the pictures and reprocesses to Toyota customer services, they may wish to consider the products their franchises sell under their name.

I left the boots as the chap said they are just starting to show wear. And all my MOT's are done at the same place, a small independent garage and very good. Only ever had one car fail there and I was expecting that! It was a hunk of junk lol. Alex

With the PHEV the 12v battery continuously runs the alarm system 24/7 which is the big drain but the moment it’s in READY mode that 375v traction battery to 12v inverter is running. My understanding is that even in winter conditions a 20/30 mins period in READY mode should keep the 12v battery topped up.

I was responding to this. The 12v battery charges of the traction battery. We know from users that short journies deplete the 12v battery due to lot of draw on initial start up. I'm not massivel familiar with the way the Phev works, but if the 12 v is charged up from the traction battery then i think those 9 5 minute runs would more than undue 45 minutes of ready mode. On the Yaris forum a user managed to deplete her battery doing 10 minute daily runs for example

Thought I'd best add mine now I've got it.

I think I had delivery of one of the first 2.0 GR TS in the UK back in January 2020. Great and comfortable car, mpg avg at 56 over the last 2 and a half years. 28k miles so far. Love the HUD wish it had the options of Bi-LED headlights, steering wheel warmer, and pan sunroof. If the MY23 fixes that next year I may be inclined to trade up

In another thread you wrote this - “I did check at the weekend at the dealers on the GR sport and the ones in stock were the same” Clearly not a ‘bodged job one off’ if they are all like it. Sell up. Move on.

I have Good Year Performance 2 on 17mm wheel. 225/45R17. It is much more comfortable in bump and rough roads than the OEM Dunlop summer tires. It is relatively quiet but the main + is the ride quality, it is firm but still have enough cushion even on 17 inches wheel. I bought it for €60 and install it for €17.5 each. The instalation cost (mounting and balancing) is already expensive, there is no point to buy non premium tires that last much shorter and less comfortable and grip. Goodyear for summer, Michelin All Seasons for winter.

Of course, if you had used ‘ready mode’ instead, you would have continued to put some charge back in the battery, probably with little use of the ICE starting. Do that 4 times in the week and you’ll achieve the “1 hour per week” recommended by Toyota, no need for use of the charger.

It's very likely to be a bad cat. but a bad downstream o2 sensor can't be ruled out completely. If you have access to an infrared thermometer then check the temperature of the fully warmed up cat. the outlet should be hotter than the inlet.

Your screen shot does say RAV4 Plug-in so it’s right account type just somehow not triggering the correct data screens. Maybe talk to the dealer or address the issue to the app support in the account pages.

Thanks Bill, well that's encouraging. Hope you like it!

Toyota seems to swim against the tide of other manufactures in naming car functionality.

Hi. They do sell philips in this country but state that must not be used on public roads!! Will probably use a Samsung kit comprising two main lamps 2 position lamps and 2 BUSCANS. All warranted to work fine on the mk4 Yaris. Watch this space for a report.

There are 2 Nextbase Dashcam Apps. , ( My Nextbase Connect) and (Cam Viewer), Cam Viewer is the older app you use with their older dash cams (like the toyota fitted 380gwx) and has been discontinued. The new app is for their latest dashcams(series 2 onwards).

Sad but as you say ‘never again’.

Those wheels suit the colour very well!

Interesting, I always have the battery heater/cooling active on mine to maximise and create the best conditions for the traction battery.

My Merc tried to remove a reinforced concrete support in a carpark while I was looking the other way. A new wing, painted to match, £650. My mechanic did ask if I was claiming. 😁

Nigel, interesting comments, it would be good if it does charge the 12v battery.

I've used Chips Away a few times in the past, and was really pleased with the results.

It’s not from the clutch but from the engine load. Clutch doesn’t have friction materials to wear, it could become faulty but in rare occasions. The problem is when ac starts the engine is loaded more than usual and ecu reacts to maintain rpm to prevent stalling, there is some latency in the whole process and this is felt by the driver. Larger engines has enough torque at idle or while pulling the car and can’t feel the extra load from the ac compressor. The experiment done by a member with lower gas inside the system and smoother operation simply proof my explanation. Engines are loaded a lot by the alternator, power steering pump and ac. Older cars that have hydraulic power steering, ac and alternator were even worse. It might look strange how can an engine be loaded by something small but remember engine has gearbox that multiply the torque to propel the car while the auxiliary system are directly driven. 👍

You don't have to rag the nuts off it, but sustaining around 2000-2500 rpm should be enough, although might be different with your engine depending on its rev range. It's just about getting the engine hot enough; If you were towing a caravan or carting a load of rubble to the dump or something that'd be enough to get the engine good and hot long enough for the soot to get burned off.

Hi you dont need to lift the rear seat to connect ilet terminals to positive post just undo battery fastining bracket remove this & slide battery forward about a inch to access positive terminal post. I isolated my tools with insulation tape first & removed - ve tirminal ground first . If you WANT TO it now a good time to cut your ctek lead & insert a 5 amp fuse for safty plus it makes adding to it later a lot easier ie a battery monitor. Negative terminal lots of places without connecting to the post screw I used the screws goint to the chassy ground. Hope it helps.

In uk car prices are crazy. Recent visit to a local Toyota dealer just proof that. There were used 3 years old Corolla outside for 3-4 grand more expensive than brand new same spec cars, unbelievable but true. Even like my car bough in 2015 now worth more money, this is shows how bad economically is England at the moment.

If you really,really want the Touring Sport and you can afford it then just buy it Sam. Your ticket marked "LIFE" does not have a return option !

I have nothing on the Web just a bunch of error codes. When did that first populate? Regarding insurance, in my case I had a 2 month gap. Cheapest option was to pay an additional premium to change cars. Had I cancelled there would have been a hefty cancellation fee. In your case best option is to speak with the insurers. Set out the dates see what offers you get.

If you read back through my comments on this thread in regards to my cars progress. In my case, the journey from the factory in Eastern Europe to Toyota's Derby Distribution centre was FAR quicker than the journey from Toyota's Derby Distribution Centre to my Toyota Dealer in Reading!! So the wee diagram in myT showing your car's journey is a bit of a hit and miss. I actually saw my car at the dealers before they took off the outer protective film on the roof and bonnet etc and I did notice that the shipping document stuck on the inside of the windscreen had the word RAIL on it, so I assume it was on a train for part of the journey.

Advanced Parking Assist is still listed within the specification provided by the website. I would put virtual money on Frosty being correct and the journalists writing for the mag not knowing the difference between Advanced Parking Assist and Advanced Remote Park Assist ... 😉

Aye, don't know why my wife picked grey this time, but grey appears to be the new silver. My first SAAB was Silver Mink. Anyone seeing it would immediately identify it - grey and non metallic to boot. Last car, a Merc, was blue, a really distinctive shade, only ever recalling seeing two other similar. Sufficiently rare that Halfords didn't sell touch up for it.

I can confirm that the Rav4 battery charging starts immediately when ready mode is switched on according to my voltmeter. It may be that charge rate diminishes once the battery reaches full charge. I doubt that the charge rate ever goes above 10 amps so one hour in Ready mode, whether in motion or not, will not fully charge a flat battery.

I changed my belt 2 years ago when I replaced the water pump. The old belt was original and in fairly good condition. This is because the belt has a simple run, so will last longer. Get an inspection mirror (cheap ones available in pound stores) and good torch to check the condition of the belt, both sides for cracks and delamination. I bought the spare belt and after the replacement kept the old for emergency purpose. If the belt did snap and you have a spare, so long as you have a socket kit, you can replace the belt roadside and be on your way. Couple of other checks you can do apart from the tension, is the alternator freewheel pulley and water pump for play, leaks or about to seize. The freewheel pulley can be faulty by not freewheeling on over run (locked), or not locking causing the alternator to not charge the battery. Both are rare. When I replaced the water pump, it was noisy and I suspect had a leak. After I replaced the water pump, the old pump actually seized solid that I couldn't turn it by hand! Hopefully all this extra info will help you.

That would be true if it were a traditional ICE, but it's a Toyota hybrid. All the power to start the engine comes from Nick's massive traction battery - assuming the engine actually starts and he doesn't stay in EV mode throughout the journey. All the auxiliary battery is required to do is to get the car into Ready mode - once in Ready mode the auxiliary battery is recharged from the traction battery. And Nick reported that the car had already be made Ready and then 'stalled' ... The 'weakness', such as it is, with the auxiliary battery is a long lay-up maintaining the car's electronic systems when it isn't going anywhere. Such as folk found during lock-down. This is resolved by accumulated time in Ready mode (or a spot of trickle charging). And that's just not the case in Nick's example.

I usually go for red, orange, gold type colours for cars. I'm not a fan of silver, grey, black etc But it would be a boring world if we all liked the same things

Very nice enjoy 🙂

Picked up my Dynamic FWD with JBL & PVM this morning. Has been available for a week or so, but have been out of the country. Ordered 04/11/21. Poured on way home, so can say the wipers work well.

hi thanks the seal didn't fall out i had to remove the shaft and when i reinstalled it there was little leak so i needed to remove the seal to fit a new one but was unsure if it could be levered out ,,but i have done that now just need to get a new seal ,,thanks

Oh and I forgot to add: The hybrid aspect of the Corolla complicates things further. The car can choose to improve ICE efficiency by having the electric motor do some of the work. This can result in lower RPMs for the same road speed. Perhaps more bizarrely the car can do the opposite. It can put additional load on the ICE by getting it to charge the battery. This might seem silly but the additional load might allow the ECU to operate the ICE more efficiently. In this mode you're burning more petrol than you need to keep the vehicle moving but you're getting more energy out of the fuel you burn - the surplus energy is stored in the battery to be used later. It all comes down to the same thing: RPMs are hard to predict and hard to understand with a CVT and even more so with a hybrid. There's an argument to be made that Toyota shouldn't have bothered with a rev counter because it doesn't tell the driver anything useful and the driver has no control over them either.

It's perfectly normal for a CVT equipped vehicle and 'the way it should be' for all vehicles, if only they could.. A CVT offers an unlimited number of gear ratios (within a range) so the engine can be kept at the ideal RPM for whatever it is the driver is asking it to do. RPMs rising/falling are an unfortunate consequence of the limited choice of gear ratios available on most vehicles. A vehicle equipped with a conventional gearbox has to choose between 2nd (too high RPMs) or 3rd (too low RPMs). A vehicle equipped with a CVT can choose 2.34 or 2.45 or anything else in between 2 and 3. To be strictly accurate the Corolla doesn't have a 'CVT gearbox' but in practical terms it amounts to the same thing. The ECU will choose the best RPMs for the ICE and fine tune them as it goes. Under steady acceleration that might sticking to the same RPM or it might mean gradually increasing the RPM. It might even mean reducing the RPM although I've never noticed that happen on the Corolla. My previous car was a Honda Jazz equipped with an actual 'CVT gearbox' If you accelerated hard then eased off a bit you could keep the Jazz accelerating while the RPMs were dropping. It's best not to worry about it. Just accept that your Corolla's ECU can operate the ICE at whatever RPM is best for efficiency (or torque if you are pushing it) and let it do its thing. The relationship between road speed, load and RPM is much more flexible than with a conventional gearbox. That's why all forms of CVT are better.

Fiddling around the edges, nothing major just smoke and mirrors and work for the PR boys and girls. I think these focus groups are sometimes like the crowd watching the King in the magic suit of clothes.

That's really bad, no reason it should be there for that long. I guess I will expect it will arrive at the dealer no earlier than 4th July then.

Good luck with that. Mine has been at the Derby Distribution center for nearly a month and my local Toyota salesman has no authority in the matter whatsoever, so keep hoping. !!! Toyota GB are getting a letter from me on this. Just not acceptable.