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You might want to consider getting it re-gassed sooner, a lot of the guidance on car aircon systems make a point about the need to run it regularly to keep seals well lubricated to stop them drying out and further leaks developing, if the pressure drops too low the compressor motor won't cut in to circulate the refrigerant and oil. If the pressure gets really low to the point that moisture can get in to the system via the leak, that can apparently cause damage as well.

You've got to give credit to the safety systems in the new Yaris. It's like a paranoid bodyguard on wheels, with sensors and warning systems that go above and beyond. It can keep a watchful eye on your tyre pressures, save clueless pedestrians, and even rat out that bag of groceries on the back seat for not buckling up. But hey, guess what's missing? A fancy warning light for the washer bottle! Nope, instead, they thought it would be hilarious to rely on a masterpiece of entomological abstract art—dead moths and flies splattered across your windscreen! 😬

Just received notification that they have started to build mine.

Agree..^^^...I'd get it re-gassed as soon as poss.

I agree, the rule of thumb is a system will lost 10% of its refrigerant every year so you are down to 30% if lucky, getting it re-gassed will also show if you have a leak if you take it somewhere that has a decent machine. Some members have said the system doesn't need to be run regularly to keep it in good condition but i always do even if only for a couple of minutes in winter to help demist in summer its on most of the time. RAC - There are plenty of myths around air-con, but what should you really be doing? Getting the system re-gassed, is often the best way to keep your air-con in top form, as well as ensuring you use it all year round, but there are plenty of other things to consider too. Here we look at people's top air-con issues, seperating fact from fiction. Should I use the air-con in winter too? In a word, absolutely. In fact consider it an essential part of car maintenance that could directly save you money on repair work further down the line. First and foremost using warm air from the system in winter is a great way to demist the windows. The air coming out of the vents is dry, so the air-con acts as a dehumidifier. An air-con system is much like the human body – if not used for long periods it can seize up, plus circulation suffers. The air-con is filled with a refrigerant and some oil, and it pays to keep that liquid flowing and the components of the system lubricated.

I really wanted for "Svetana" to look her best! Some elbow greese and some very old school Turtle wax. 5 hours later - and I am sure I can see her from space..

If the smaller boot is to give better passenger legroom I'd be all for that - One of the things that annoys me about the Mk4 is they've sacrificed rear passenger space for bigger boot figures - I'd rather have a smaller boot with more rear passenger room personally; After all, you can drop the seats for more cargo capacity, but you can't cut your passengers legs off to make them fit in the rear seats better (Not legally anyway). I always feel it's a real shame they didn't put the trick rear seats from the Mk2 in the Mk4! Of course, as this is a disgusting SUV, I want nothing to do with it, so it's a bit moot

Air con not necessary to be used to maintain its working order or longevity. The system needs periodic refill so it is indeed beneficial to get it check and regas every 4 years or so. Most people prefer to have it ON in Auto mode all year around which is perfectly fine. This however will not exclude the periodic service, cabin filter best to be replaced every year instead of recommended two years intervals. 👍

Have had my Icon model since 29/04. In that time put 1338 miles on, mainly due to a holiday in Lincolnshire. The gauge states I'm averaging 82.5.mpg. I'm the type of person that likes to keep the tank well up, and in the 4 times I've "topped" it to the brim, the figures show an average of over 77.3.mpg. So no complaints there. Of course I expect in the winter it may go down a bit, but basically I'm getting over 50% more mpg. compared to my previous car.

Ours has apparently got as far as Derbyshire this morning, 3 weeks after we had notification of 'processing order' and just under 2 weeks since it went into build.

This story has been doing the rounds since April at least - e.g. https://www.topgear.com/car-news/suvs/uk-car-parks-are-apparently-danger-collapsing-because-new-cars-are-so-heavy If it is such an issue, and for those car parks at risk, one answer would be to limit the number of spaces provided for EVs, or reduce the capacity of the car park. Any new car parks built would also have to have increased weight capacities.

Just waiting for Hornby to upscale Scalextric as an alternative system .........

So this is why the charges are so high in London. It's to pay for the entire road system in London to be fitted with electric coils to reduce the emissions 😁😁

A year or two ago the goverment were talking about overhead cables for recharging batteries for cars and hgv vehicles on the motorways it was like tram technology but system retracted for overtaking and was only inteded for 1 or 2 lanes not 3 but it died a death. Funding I presume!.

It's a known issue with the IQ, specifically with the pearlescent paint, where it hasn't bonded properly to the car. A lot of owners had this problem when the car was new and Toyota were fixing it, but alas that campaign is well over now. A wrap would probably be easier, but you would have to declare it on insurance, which will push the premium up - Someone got in trouble with insurance not long ago because their car had a clear PPF on it. With paint you need to find a reputable place too as there are a lot of cowboys out there. I'd probably lean more toward the paint just to avoid the insurance complications.

Well, let's be honest, Toyotas are out of this world 😁

Great lets hope it rolled out on motorways as a and b roads you lucky if they fix the potholes!.

Yeaaah good luck with that. They couldn't add an extra lane to our motorways without cannibalizing the hard shoulder and that still took over a decade, and they can't even afford to fix potholes but they want to dig up substantial lengths of roadway to install electrical coils? And how long will they last before they get damaged? And the transmission losses will be horrific; You'll be lucky to get 30% energy transfer! If they can get it working for Formula E so it's not such a joke then I'll pay more attention, but this seems like yet another pie-in-the-sky idea that won't work in real life, like Solar Roadways... This is the problem with all these idiotic ideas - They are all Form over Function. They need to focus on sorting out the basic charging infrastructure and improving vehicle energy storage capacity before they start wasting money and resources distracting with things like this, but they won't because sensible things are boring and people are idiots that always go after the shiny instead

Car looks great, better then some of the professional detailing by the looks of it.Well done👍

Resembles a king size bed for two.. Or someone left an ***** groove on the couch… But aerodynamic no doubt

Mine certainly seemed to have an unusually small bottle, first time I've been caught out by it running dry in 3 Yarisuseseises! I now carry a refill bottle in the boot...

Yeah, there aren't many petrol cars that get anywhere near the sort of mileage the M15A-FXE engines get out of these new hybrids, and certainly none with the same level of responsiveness and punch. They even give the most frugal diesels a good run for their money! I generally get 450-500 miles out of 26-28L of fuel.

Nice and shiny, cars like this I like 👍 Just walked past X 23 rev in white, very dirty one, it seems like a company car. Anyway, but what draw my attention was the roof shape, it’s not flat , it is exactly like on Prius gen 3, aerodynamic perhaps?!

Hear mine very clearly inside the car. Neighbours say spaceship coming 🤣

IMG_1733.mp4 Try this. If it doesn’t work I give up 🙁

Your tank will not be empty when you go to the station regardless of what the dial reads. You need to let go of worrying about something that's not relevant. It comes across as if you feel like you've been short changed or something. You haven't.

Yeah that's normal. If you've ever braked hard enough to trigger ABS, it's a very similar sensation (Sortof you're suddenly driving over gravel with a pneumatic drill). The new cars are all brake by wire, and when they autobrake I assume they're engaging maximum braking force which also triggers ABS, resulting in that horrible noise!

I have an issue with Asics trainers, my wife brought a pair cost £150 and less then 18 months later ended up with a hole in the top of the trainer material on both feet. If they are teaming up with Toyota to make a new trainer out of the leftover airbag material does that mean if you kick something the trainers will inflate and protect your feet.😅 Brilliant idea if it does I hope they can make a hat as well for the amount of times I have bang my head doing DIY😅

Just noticed there's a new one to download today, which is replacing the existing app !! Mine didn't quite work fully...anyone else have a problem ? I'm not deleting the existing app until I get this new one working.

Hi all, New member here, looking for a little Yaris to run around in to keep miles off my other car. I'm looking at MK3 around 2011 -> 2013, spending no more than £4000 ideally. Seems I can choose between 1.33 petrol or 1.4 diesel (would prefer the petrol). In my price range mileage could be anywhere between 80k -> 150k, and this wouldn't usually bother me with having much higher mileage Toyota engines before. However I keep reading the 1.33 engine (1NR-FE) suffers from the piston rings getting gunked up / becoming weak and therefore the engine starts to use oil. Part of me finds this hard to believe as there are loads of these on the roads, surely they aren't all drinking oil? My question is, is buying a 1.33 powered MK3 Yaris unwise? Does anyone have any reliable information on when Toyota made improvements to this engine / piston rings? Alternatively, I think I'd be quite happy with the diesel. I've only read of the occasional DPF blocking issues with these and that's just a part of owning most modern diesels. Thanks, Cal

If it was being wrapped they would indeed have to remove all the flaking paint, although I don't know if a whole full paint job would be needed or could get away with just a base/primer coat - They just need something for the wrap to stick to, and flaking paint wouldn't hold it. As for avoiding cowboys, all you can do is find companies then google them for reviews, esp. on forums. Couldn't name any specifically; The only time I had anything resprayed was my old Fiesta's door 2 decades ago, and I'm not even sure of that place is still there! They did a decent job but were quite expensive and I didn't know any better, being a new driver at the time!

Hi Shyam, My understanding is you need to repair any paint peel or bad area's before you can wrap a car. Any paint defects will show through. Have you considered getting a quote for the paint defects to be resprayed and also a quote for a wrap and compare the costs. Wrapping if not done properly will look terrible and can pull paint off when removed. Depending on the level of paint damage some mobile respray guys can do a really good job a lot cheaper then a garage. It's worth a call to get an idea you can then ask them any issues you may have with wrapping. Hope this helps.

The inverter / converter (under bonnet next to the engine) takes power from the HV battery & converts it to 12v, then chucks it at the 12v battery. Only works when car is in ‘Ready’ mode

Or, all fur coat and no knickers, as we say up here…

Washed mine for the first time at the weekend and have similar marks. I wondered if it was just poor application of the superguard stuff. Will have a go with Rainex as have some kicking about somewhere.

I will say the 1.33 isn't as big a boost over the 1.0L as you'd think - I found it extremely peaky, whereas the 1.0L feels like it has a more even spread of torque across its rev range. I'd driven Aygos with the 1KR-FE and a Mk2 Yaris with an early (i.e. oil guzzling) 1NR-FE, albeit several years apart so the ol' memory is a bit fuzzy, but from what I remember they didn't feel that different at the low end, and it's only when I really started ragging them that the 1.33 would start to feel noticeably more powerful. The Mk3 might have been tuned slightly differently tho'. Have you considered a late-gen Mk2 actually? They're really good, smaller than the Mk3 but have far better internal space and storage, and will likely be cheaper.

Just picked up my new Yaris hybrid on Saturday (3rd of. June). Same issue with some kind of chemical reaction on the black tailgate. Manager at the dealer says, they've had a few of these cars with same issue. He took pics and sent off to Toyota. Hopefully a replacement will be fitted rather than a paint job.

Been down this rabbit hole - so much has been done, it has turned into a mess the car cranks and starts, alternator is a red herring, no codes, so it's either electrical or mechanical if the engine had enough torque, it would overcome the load on it I would be checking the compression

Would this show up on an MOT or Service? Got my first service today. Its literally just been serviced at Hyundai when I bought it but it’s missed a Toyota so want to make sure I keep it in its warranty. It’s due an air con service too which I normally wouldn’t bother with as it’s blowing cold but since the car is new to me I like to make sure thinks are as they should be.

Am I right in thinking that this problem is only relevant to AWD models that obviously have a rear electric motor. That American report above specifically refers to AWD models. Terry

Would agree with the SMMT response to the Thatcham report as it was done in 2019.My 2020 Rav 4 fob goes to sleep in 3/4 minutes so from that theft angle isn't to bad.What that Thatcham report does is just put all Rav 4 in the poor category. A report like this really should try and be more helpful by putting suggestions forward such as " In the case of the 2019 Rav 4 an owner should manually put the fob to sleep using the fob buttons" Easy to pick fault but more helpful to give guidance to owners. regards Terry

It also could be from the electric brake booster which makes similar to abs pump noises while operating normally, same noise is present when opening drivers door or when push button to start the car.

Hi, Corolla hybrid its probably the best small car in its class just because of two reasons: 1. It’s a hybrid, 2. It’s a Toyota. If you are worried about the corrosion on high voltage cable avoid getting the awd version and stick to fwd., these has no issues at all. , the corrosion problem affects only cars with rear axle electric motor. In Canada I believe you have saloon and hatchback versions, the hatchback is slightly smaller on the rear seat , something to note if you are about carrying passengers on the rear seats often. That’s all pretty much. Definitely a good choice for a small car, drives great and will last long. Regular car washes and undercarriage washes are best way to protect against rust..👍

nothing required for that length of time. Enjoy your holiday

As others have said, the problem with the 1.33 burning oil was found in the earliest cars that used that engine, namely 2009 - 2011 Mk 2 shape Yaris. Pre 2009 they used the older 1.3 2SZ-FE engines which were very reliable. As with any new engine really, the earliest examples could well have teething problems, so the early 1.33 1NR-FE engines should be avoided. I have the 1.33 engine in my late 2014 Mk3 and although it does have low mileage (30K) it doesnt use any oil at all, and that was with my mother owning it for 7 years before I got it and she did mainly short urban runs in it and had the oil changed every 2 years (around 5 to 6K miles between changes). I have looked around at Yaris prices and the mk3 does not come cheap, even 2011 models (61 plates) can go for well over 4 grand. Something like mine, a 2014 early Mk3 first facelift with low miles would set you back 7000 - 8500+ depending on the dealer. To get a decent 2013 model (13 or 63 plate) with around 80K miles on the clock would be around the 5 - 6 grand mark. Diesels are rarer and more expensive especially if you want a low mileage one, and for 4 grand you wont get anything decent with a diesel engine, plus anything diesel older than around a 65 plate will fall foul of the ULEZ rules as they are much more stringent than for petrol, which ALL mk3 petrol engine models would comply with (anything newer than 2006 for petrol engines) The 1.0 engine bear in mind in the Mk3 uses the same 3 cylinder unit found in the Aygo, and is probably a bit gutless in the Yaris, so the 1.33 would be the best bet, but I think unless you are prepared to go for a newer Cat N or Cat S damage repaired Yaris, you might not get anything newer than a 2011 or 2012 model for 4 grand. Personally I would not like to take the risk of buying a salvage repaired car, but if they have been repaired well, you could get a newer car than you would have otherwise got for your money.

The diesel will be nicer to drive and have way better mpg but is a risky buy with all these cursed ULEZ popping up, but the biggest nail in the coffin is it's a modern diesel so will have a DPF and probably a DMF too - The two things that flipped diesel from being the most reliable type of engine to the least. I'm a big diesel fan but wouldn't touch a modern one. The problem with the 1NR-FE burning oil was mostly a Mk2 problem, specifically early ones - Past 2011/12 I think the problem had been pretty much sorted so will be fine in the Mk3.

Thanks for the info peeps. I live in the countryside so ULEZ isn't an issue at the moment, although I'm sure it will be soon. Might take my chances on a petrol. As long as I find one that doesn't already burn oil I have no problem changing the oil regularly and keeping it running well. With the CAT being rumoured to hide blue smoke well, I'm not sure how I'd be able to tell if a car IS burning oil until I bought and took a peek at the spark plugs... Should I be looking for service history showing oil changes every 10k / year? Not sure what the interval is on these cars.

I've had a '14, 1.33 petrol for nine years and (touch wood) it's never drunk a bit (I do give it some beans now and then). Do you know it'll do an indicated 80MPH in 3rd before it hits the rev limiter?

at least the range count`s down , a previous car just gave fuel low warning below 100 miles so i`ve had a few nail biters in the past.

I wouldn't worry too much, the needle has been below empty on my 2021 TS and it still takes less than 40 liters to fill up. Just one of those quarks.