Drl's

[tonyishuk]

I'm a little slow on this, so before I push my trolly around Halfords

The BLR 0395 are sold as styling lights (£30 the pair) but need the Amazon kit (£17) to wire.

The Ring DLRs look very similar ( Ring Daytime Running Lights - Pair Cat code: 958207-0 ) but come with a wiring kit ?

Heathie, like the Photos, just to ask what DRLs are they ? You did not say but reads as if they are BLR 0395's

I think, i've got it, but just making certain

Rgds

[Manxrav]

I fitted Phillips DRL.s to my Urbancruiser, not the cheapest but they do come compete and are dead easy to fit.

Regards Clare

[Heathie]

Hi Tony,

Mine are non of the above as I import them from Germany, they are complete, nothing else to buy, E Marked and fully legal.

They are pure white and top quality, I sell them for £70.00 Inc Vat and Postage.

[tarquin]

I suppose it depends where you want to put them. The reason i suggested the BLR 0395's was because i have fitted quite a few and they do fit very snug virtual no gap in the upper end grills and think they look good there. Of course in the bottom grill there are plenty of options as people are suggestiing. Just a personal choice really. I have a set of replacement lens which sit under the wing mirrors and look exactly the same as the originals except that they not only have the amber indicator in them but also a DRL and a set of downward facing lights which can be made to come on and light the way when approaching your car. Taz also has a set. Waiting to fit them when tbe weather breaks.

David

[tonyishuk]

Again thx for all your replies.

I got some BLR 0395's from Halfords. Kit from Amazon ordered.

First problem ! Are the leds overly polarity sensitive.?

Instructions quote wiring for a black wire and a Black and white striped wire.

Needless to say the leds have a red wire and a black wire !!

Rgds

[tonyishuk]

A very easy install can give you instructions if required There are pictures of mine on the revious page. David

Hi,

Any advice would be useful, Not in the game of re-inventing the wheel (even on simple jobs !!)

Rgds

[tonyishuk]

Whilst looking for DRLs for our m/home. I found these round mountings that might be possible to mount in place of the fog lights were they are not fitted.

http://ledcom.co.uk/

Rgds

[tarquin]

Hi Tony

The ones you got from Halfords as you say come with short Red and Black wires with bullet connectors on. The auto unit from Amazon comes with long Red and Black leads with the opposite connectors so they just push together. You can cable tie back excess cable or if your handy with a soldering iron reduce the length. You are then left with 3 wires to find homes for , Red, Black and Orange. RED to Battery Positive. Black to Battery Negative. Orange to the side light . If you remove the sidelight from the holder, there is a short (6 inch) black sleeving leading up to the connector with ridges around it. It has black tape around it. This can be peeled off revealing a slit in the sleeving,Open the slit and locate the Green wire. Gently snip some of the insulation off and solder the Orange wire to it. Re-fit and tape back up. Looks very neat and not disturbed. Or you could just use a scotch connector. Depends how neat you want to be,

If your fitting the DRL's in the upper outer grills the you don't need the brackets that are on them. They fit very snug in there, I use plastic cement which dries in 5 mins just to hold them in because of bumps

David

[tonyishuk]

Thanks for the information, I will let you know how I get on.

I see what you mean about a "push fit" into the grill, I'm not too sure using plastic cement and will see if a mastic could be used.

The mastic bead could be broken, hopefully with no damage to the paintwork.

Rgds

[johnan]

Thanks for the information, I will let you know how I get on.

I see what you mean about a "push fit" into the grill, I'm not too sure using plastic cement and will see if a mastic could be used.

The mastic bead could be broken, hopefully with no damage to the paintwork.

Rgds

Mine have been there (in the upper grille) in my previous IQ and current one for over a year with no added adhesive, and they have not moved at all.

The roads here are pretty bad too!

John

[tarquin]

Looking at them they are in 2 halves creating a seam, as they are pushed in the grill the seam is gripped by the edges of the bumper which grip into the seams of the lights. Very firm

David

[tonyishuk]

Thanks,

All the bits have arrived, But like most people I am waiting for the weather to improve !

I'll let you know how I get on.

I can post some photos if anyone else is watching the thread and would like to see how it goes.

Rgds

[tarquin]

Yep. Post those picccy's

David

[tonyishuk]

Done the deed and they are working, Will post some piccys of how I did it shortly.

Biggest problem was "Shall I, Should I," hack mr T's wiring. !! I did !

Rgds

[tarquin]

Excellent!!!

David

[tonyishuk]

Hopefuly there should be some piccys and descrition attached to this reply.

Not having posted a Pdf to this site before, I am not too sure how it handles it ;-)

Rgds

DLR Installation.pdf

[tarquin]

Excellent PDF Tony

One thing to add. If you don't want to wrap the "loom " in tape, I use 3mm spiral wrap from maplin, makes a very neat job its about £2.50 for 10mtrs. Well done

David

[Guest]

Nice job Tony. Looks really good and I can relate to the 'Should I' 'Should I not' feeling. I still haven't painted the brake calipers yet, but then I need a few items first, like axle stands. One day it will be done.

[tonyishuk]

Just to update, everything is working as it said on the packets.

DRLs have not dropped out of the grill

Rgds

[tarquin]

Fantasmigorical.!!!!

David

[tonyishuk]

Apologies for pulling this thread up again, but seemed the best place for seeking some thoughts on my problem.

IQ DRLS and kit still working fine !

So I purchased the same lights and kit to fit to my m/home. All installed in much the same way as in the IQ, but I have a slight problem.

It is mounted with a fuse on the live supply. (Similar to the to the way I mounted the unit on the IQ)

I pull the fuse out and put it back in.

Start the engine and the LED lights light up OK

Stop the engine, lights dim and go out.

BUT

Next time I start the engine, the lights do not light up.

HOWEVER

If I pull out the fuse and insert it, and then start the engine the lights work and go out when the engine stops, but fail to light up again on the next start, unless the fuse is pulled and inserted again.

It seems to me that there is a problem with the unit refreshing itself, unless there is a break in the live feed.

The orange wire to the side / dip beam is not connected at present.

I have measured the voltages at rest and on start-tup and again when the engine stops and the voltage differences are broadly the same as those on the IQ.

Any Ideas ?

I have written to the supplier waiting for a reply.

Rgds

[tarquin]

Hi Tony

My suggestion is to connect the orange lead. By it being connected , it is offering partial resistance to chassis either by through the ECU or the LOAD of the bulb and is used in the circuit as a form of reset.

David

[tonyishuk]

Hi,

Thanks I will give it a try. I did run the IQ for a while with the orange wire disconnected before I took the plunge to cut into Mr Ts wiring. The DRLs worked OK with the wire disconnected.

I took another look today and rewired around the fuse just to see if there was some sort of resistance loss due to the connection.

Same result unfortunately

One thought I did have. The vehicle is a m/home and I keep the batteries charged up with a maintenance charger (not a trickle Charger).

I am wondering if there is an latent effect as the Battery voltage maybe higher than that when left to stand. I will disconnect the charger and try again after 24 hrs. That said the voltage at the Battery is no more than that after a run. The voltage at static is about 12.6v goes up to 14.2 when the engine ticks over and decays 12.6 when switched off.

When working, the DRLs do shut off about 5 to 6 seconds after the engine stops. (as would be expected) Just that next start up, Lights are not lit.

Rgds

[tarquin]

Are you using the automatic DRL controller from Amazon that i use? The unit is across the Battery, on the sidelights and outputed the the LED's. When the car is off, lights are off. When the car is started, the circuit monitors the Battery and detects a drop as the engine is started. As the engine starts the alternator brings the Battery voltage back up again. Whilst the voltage drop is occuring, the circuit monitors the orange wire to see if there is a voltage on it. If there isnt a voltage the circuit puts the DRL's on. The orange wire is monitored constantly and if a voltage is detected on it, it turns the DRL's off. When the engine is turned off,the circuit monitoring the battery voltage, detects the voltage drop as the alternator stops and starts a 5 second timer that holds the lights on for 5seconds( assuming they were on to start with) then times out waiting for the next voltage drop at starting again. So the whole thing relies on voltage dropping to trigger switching. If you are constantly charging then it cant switch

David

[tonyishuk]

Many thanks for your reply, It confirms what I thought about how the unit works (It is the one you recommended)

From what you have written, and my experience of running the IQ without the orange wire connected, the DRLs should still work? The unit senses the voltage in the orange wire to switch the DRLs off then no voltage to switch them back on.

I thought about your advice about the control unit requiring a sign from the orange wire. Getting to the wiring to the headlight unit is not that easy.

However I did jury rig the circuit to mimic the lighting circuit, which poses more questions than it answers!

When the unit is working (by removing and replacing the fuse), the DRLs power up when the engine is started and remain on until I lit the jury rig bulb and DRLs power down. I switch bulb off and the DRLs light up. So no problem there.

But the strange thing is that to make the DRLs work next time, I have to switch the light circuit on then off and the DRLs seem to work.

I.e. Start the engine, switch on the lights, switch off the lights and DRLs work as expected. NOT the automatic switch on as expected.

So I still wondering if the unit is faulty, or just quirky?

I am still wating for a reply from the supplier

Rgds