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raglangirl

Restoring Red Paint On A 1999 Rav

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Hello,

I was just wondering what the best products are to use on red faded paintwork? It's not bad actually for the age but the previous owner started one door and the bonnet and I can't get it to match! I'm using Autoglym's super resin polish, which is good but after 4 coats I'm still not there! It's taken a lot of elbow grease!

Any ideas? Is it time to use a buffer/polisher......... Any help is much appreciated :)

Many thanks

elise

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Apologies if I have put this in the wrong place!

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You need to get yourself some farcela G3 , put some on a mop or cloth but do it wet . Then wipe off when dried and then polish with your autoglym polish. If you use a mop/ buffer just keep body work wet don't allow to paint to get hot, also will make a mess with a mop/ buffer so you will probably have to wash car then when dry polish up. But the shine and colour will come back a treat . You can use the G3 to remove deep scratches also then polish, small fine scratches use G10. Hope this helps, have done a few red cars I've owned and friends and always come up well.

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Thank you so much for your advice, that sounds great I will get on and order some from Amazon!

Thank you, I really appreciate it :)

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Beware G3 and G6 unless you have experience of polishing.. Neither of these are IMHO are suitable for use by hand.. They are a commercial bodyshop product designed for fast results and are All In One (AOI) polibshes which need care and knowledge to get the best from them ! As Grumpy says much lubrication by water is needed or the polish will clog and marr the finish..

Take a look here and come back if you have any questions...

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/127259-machine-polishing-a-guide/#entry1133029

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As Charlie says be carefully, I have never had a problem using G3 but take it easy and if you use a buffer don't apply any pressure let the mop do the work and keep wet. I have used G3 by hand which also found ok but harder work than using a buffer. Charlie's link has some great advice regarding these polishes etc.

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I used meguires G220 and their diamond cut compound worked well on my 1999 Rav4.

I've used G3 too but tend to use it if trying to hide / blend in scratches and marks - it's serious stuff.

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Grumpy.. Mate the problem with AOI polishes like G3 is the fine particles in the polish that do the cutting start off large to give a heavyish cut and as the heat builds the particles break down to the next level and then cut less.. This happens four times IF the polish is worked hard enough..

The problem is is that if this type of polish is not worked hard enough the particles will remain in the larger most aggressive cutting form.

It is because of these properties they are popular with commercial body shops where time and effort is money..

For me AOIs are fine but unpredictable ...

The Meguires range of polishes are a far better prospect for beginner..

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I know it is fun and a good thing to say "I've done that", but .... And it is a big but ...you need to be really careful when it comes to using something like a MOP (Machine Orbital Polisher). It is very easy to go though the paintwork in SECONDS if not used right, and the place to practice is not on your car! I burnt through a scrap Punto bumper in about 2 seconds while testing out with a new MOP :(

TBH, I think it would be worth speaking to a local Valeter/Detailer about restoring the paintwork as that could cost not much more then buying all the kit you need and then having it sit around (the kind of stuff you would use to restore paintwork is not the same as everyday car cleaning stuff and you may potentially never use it again). And it would be a lot cheaper then a potential respray of a panel.

Sorry to cast doom on the idea, but this is something that has expensive consequences!

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Grumpy.. Mate the problem with AOI polishes like G3 is the fine particles in the polish that do the cutting start off large to give a heavyish cut and as the heat builds the particles break down to the next level and then cut less.. This happens four times IF the polish is worked hard enough..

The problem is is that if this type of polish is not worked hard enough the particles will remain in the larger most aggressive cutting form.

It is because of these properties they are popular with commercial body shops where time and effort is money..

For me AOIs are fine but unpredictable ...

The Meguires range of polishes are a far better prospect for beginner..

Stonking advice.......had hardly heard of G3 before, but sounds about equivalent to T-Cut.

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Ah, it sounds like a commercial product like T-cut could be your first move, or have a word with one of the on line polish and kit suppliers, and see what they recommend for amateur application. Charlies advice is most practical, I got a lot of help from the "perfect finish" people as well.

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Thank you so much for all your advice. I am a complete beginner, I actually thought you meant a cleaning mop when you said use a mop! My dad had to explain what it was :)

I'm just using a cotton cloth to put on the Autoglym SRP then polishing it off with a microfibre cloth. My brother recommended Meguiar's also. I may just stick to the old fashioned method but I will ask for some advice from a body work specialist too.

Thanks again for all you help, I really appreciate it!

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I would actively encourage a beginner to pick up a Rotary polishing machine and have a go...

There are contributory factors to burning through paint...

Firstly and most importantly the cut of the polish..

The hardness of the pad

And the speed at which the machine is set..

Unless you get these wrong a Rotary will not and cannot do any harm..

T cut is just an old fashioned product which is !Removed! hard work and do out of date it's unbelievable.. If I was donated a tin of this it would go int the bin..

My reference to Comecial products is meant to advise NOT using them.. A well practiced body shop person would be unlikely to get caught out by an aggressive product like G3 where a beginner would simply struggle at best and cause damage at best !!!

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Oh and SRP has virtually no cutting Ability so it will take an age to get nowhere.. Bit like painting the walls is a house with a 1 inch brush.. It's a light polish with fillets that help hide swirls.. Soon as it rains a couple of times the product will dissapear and the swirls will be visible again..

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Have the T-cut people not updated their product to keep up with the times. Agree that it was always hard work to use, but I would have thought that they would probably have reformatted it to modern standards.

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Grumpy.. Mate the problem with AOI polishes like G3 is the fine particles in the polish that do the cutting start off large to give a heavyish cut and as the heat builds the particles break down to the next level and then cut less.. This happens four times IF the polish is worked hard enough..

The problem is is that if this type of polish is not worked hard enough the particles will remain in the larger most aggressive cutting form.

It is because of these properties they are popular with commercial body shops where time and effort is money..

For me AOIs are fine but unpredictable ...

The Meguires range of polishes are a far better prospect for beginner..

Ah right mate, you seem to have a lot more knowledge regarding this, you've explained a lot more to me now thanks. My mate works in a body shop and uses G3 so that's why I have the use of it and have found for what I've done it to be very good for me but as you have explained many other good stuff out there to do the job well. Cheers

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Have the T-cut people not updated their product to keep up with the times. Agree that it was always hard work to use, but I would have thought that they would probably have reformatted it to modern standards.

No Ainsley its just the same..It stinks horrible and leaves shadows in paint plus its very hard work ! To be honest I cant think of anything nice to say about it its vile stuff.....

Grumps I to have G3 and G6 and I do use it.. I too was gifted a litre bottle of each form a nephew who works at a large body repairers over in Glasgow.. I rather like the speed that paint correction can be had as it is the true All in one polish but it really is tricky stuff to use and for instance if the person polishing does not get enough heat into it it will stay in large particle form and cut very very fast so threatening burning through..

My choice of Polishes is the Menzerna range .. With these non AOI polishes its very easy to predict the all important rate of cut. Safe if you like.

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Right I just found some Meguiars in the garage and tried some on the boot, I think just after one coat it looks better than what the Autoglym did on 4 lots. The only thing is that some of the red came off on the cloth, is that normal? I don't want to rub my paint off.....I know that is probably near impossible by hand!

When the sun is gone in I will take a photo so that you can see what the guy before me did to one door and the bit I have done with Autoglym.

That kit on ebay looks great and good value too, thanks Charlie!

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Right I just found some Meguiars in the garage and tried some on the boot, I think just after one coat it looks better than what the Autoglym did on 4 lots. The only thing is that some of the red came off on the cloth, is that normal? I don't want to rub my paint off.....I know that is probably near impossible by hand!

When the sun is gone in I will take a photo so that you can see what the guy before me did to one door and the bit I have done with Autoglym.

That kit on ebay looks great and good value too, thanks Charlie!

With single stage paint it is quite normal for the cloth to turn the colour of the paint.. But this also indicates that you have to be careful !In reality though if polishing by hand you will do no damage . Well other than turning the cloths you are using red !

Please use microfibre cloths/towels not the cotton stuff you spoke of above.. Proper cloths will not make the job harder by marring the finish..

Red single stage paint has a huge tenancy to fade and bloom therefore turning very flat and pink in colour.. Again this is quite normal but you can help stave off or prevent the return of fading by using a paint sealant instead of a wax.....

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Just spoke to the guy I bought it off and he bought a random orbital polisher and used Meguiars. I think I'm just being a bit fussy but because it's in such good condition I want to keep it that way.

Thanks Charlie

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Nothing wrong with being fussy ! Many on here fit that bill...

Random Orbital will do the job and will be likely a better tool given that you have the relitivly soft single stage paint.

How about some pictures of the car ?

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Meguiares do a pad thing that's fits a drill now 4 around £60! Looks very good !! Any 1 tryed it ?

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Meguiares do a pad thing that's fits a drill now 4 around £60! Looks very good !! Any 1 tryed it ?

Saw that advertised and thought anything better than Popeye Arm Syndrome (P.A.S.)

Ah vote Charlie to research......? Monza Car Care, Charlie.......

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Meguiares do a pad thing that's fits a drill now 4 around £60! Looks very good !! Any 1 tryed it ?

Saw that advertised and thought anything better than Popeye Arm Syndrome (P.A.S.)

Ah vote Charlie to research......? Monza Car Care, Charlie.......

One slip and................. Of course anything that saves hard arduous graft is a god send but that to me looks cumbersome and awkward... Especially for a lady or someone not used to using power tools ?? Imagine doing the roof on say a Rav ?

Think also we need low speeds when using a rotary and that tool is a rotary.. My Makita has 6 speeds and I never polish above speed 3 and usually its on speed 2.. This tool will tear away at whatever speed your power drill has ? Very likely to fast if anything like the drills I have,,

Shop around and find a used DAS machine with which the user would have control ?

A Silver line Rotary can be had for 40 quid .. Used on very low speeds what we detailers call the "Slow cut" would be far far less awkward and less risk. ...

Would I use that thing on my car let alone someone else s ?? Errr Nah.

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