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12 v battery flat


Knitswithbeer
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Yes I noted it was a fault code reader fault so you had no choice on using that socket

but for kit that can use other methods of connecting I prefere that route.

You olso hear of wires with short circit protection but this only applies to data lines & not the power supply from the Battery as a direct unfused feed has no protection.

A electronic supply feed can protect power feeds it usually called crowbar protection its short circit proof.

I suspect it fused but not  individually but as a group of circuits feeds.

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2 hours ago, Dala said:

for example, a car battery charger

So, one exceedingly rare instance on a 20-odd year old truck, which, quite possibly prevented damage to more expensive components, should deter us all?

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1 hour ago, Derek.w said:

Yes I noted it was a fault code reader fault so you had no choice on using that socket

but for kit that can use other methods of connecting I prefere that route.

You olso hear of wires with short circit protection but this only applies to data lines & not the power supply from the battery as a direct unfused feed has no protection.

A electronic supply feed can protect power feeds it usually called crowbar protection its short circit proof.

I suspect it fused but not  individually but as a group of circuits feeds.

It is fused, you can check in the manual for the fuse diagram.

And on all the previous yarises, it’s on its own 7.5A fuse, I highly doubt the Gen4 will differ as I said previously.

Crowbar protection is only to prevent damage from over voltage and actually causes a short circuit by design. They rely on the fuse/circuit breaker to blow from the short circuit they’ve created. 

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I have to disagree crowbar protevtion is electronic and can withstand a short circuit it pulls the current down to zero as voltage is zero but they generate a lot of heat so  can fail then a mechanical trip can operate if fitted but usually that omited.

Some power supplies are fitted with verable voltage & current limiting controll they are used in electronic test kit.

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20 hours ago, Derek.w said:

I have to disagree crowbar protevtion is electronic and can withstand a short circuit it pulls the current down to zero as voltage is zero but they generate a lot of heat so  can fail then a mechanical trip can operate if fitted but usually that omited.

Some power supplies are fitted with verable voltage & current limiting controll they are used in electronic test kit.

No Derek, you can find the definition of crowbar protection here.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crowbar_(circuit)

"A crowbar circuit is an electrical circuit used for preventing an overvoltage or surge condition of a power supply unit from damaging the circuits attached to the power supply. It operates by putting a short circuit or low resistance path across the voltage output (Vo), like dropping a crowbar across the output terminals of the power supply."

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Thanks for that information.

I remeber seeing power supplies with current limiting opetating  with voltage .

you set the voltage then the current you want and a crewbar circuit takes over tf you exceed the set referance points.

Down to zero voltage & current depending on circuit resistance.

So my understanding is not that far off the mark.

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If you open the boot on my Yaris the interior light goes off after 20 minutes to 30 minutes I was not timing it but suppose all internal lights use this timer.

I can stop & restart the car 3 times in under 10 miles round trip.

Not sure if it 35 amp hour Battery but if not its under 40 amphours and it calcium EFB type.

I was unable to charge this with a 5 watt solar panel with a mains charger I was charging it every other day.

Then moved to a 20 watt solar charger and it works fine after fitting a blocking diode as the charging indicator on panel was receving power from the Battery when solar power was low or zero.

 

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On 12/11/2021 at 10:57 AM, mrpj1 said:

That's how my dashcam is powered. Not that particular battery. Fixed under the front passenger seat.

The only drawback I have found is it's cost and I sometimes forget to switch the battery on.

Perfect for parking mode, doesn't affect the car's 12v battery which is not designed to power a dashcam in parking mode.

 

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Please try this in your search engine "Power Bank"

you be suprised at the price range & specifcations.

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  • 1 year later...

My wife has the Yaris Hybrid (new shape 2020+) and only does like 1K miles per year... with weeks of standing on drive in between use.

She is having same problems outlined here, with unable to start, or Hybrid system not ready, seemingly due to flat Battery.

I got her a Lithium portable power pack, and after clamping to red 'charging' tab in engine-bay fuse box + bulkhead bolt... it started OK... but then her car seemed to go into some sort of 'Limp Home Mode' ... max 35Mph with foot to floor, and strange exhaust noise... is that also normal? Does it point to HV Battery also being flat?

Apologies if this should be in new thread.

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Were there any warning lights on the dash to suggest it had gone into limp mode or something similar?

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Perhaps a new post about the issue may attract more readers and answers. Strange events, something not right here. After jump start have you disconnect the jumper pack and let the car in ready mode for some time? 
Strange exhaust sound and lack of power, are there any warning lights was the correct question. 👌

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Battery pack was disconnected shortly after start. No warning lights, just foot flat to the floor and 37mph top speed... Blowing lots of white smoke, then after 5 miles or so after it was showing about 50% on Battery status it cleared and started running normally. 

I even wondered if water or something had got into petrol... range said 100miles so quarter tank or so. Very worrying. Car has only done 4200 miles.

I assume this two Battery system and car starting and stopping engine in Ready mode, must be like it charging a SuperCapacitor fast, then it needs time to 'drain' into regular batteries?

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2 hours ago, BosshoggUK said:

I even wondered if water or something had got into petrol... range said 100miles so quarter tank or so. Very worrying. Car has only done 4200 miles.

I presume the car is being serviced annually ?

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3 hours ago, BosshoggUK said:

Battery pack was disconnected shortly after start. No warning lights, just foot flat to the floor and 37mph top speed... Blowing lots of white smoke, then after 5 miles or so after it was showing about 50% on battery status it cleared and started running normally. 

I even wondered if water or something had got into petrol... range said 100miles so quarter tank or so. Very worrying. Car has only done 4200 miles.

I assume this two battery system and car starting and stopping engine in Ready mode, must be like it charging a SuperCapacitor fast, then it needs time to 'drain' into regular batteries?

Oh, this does not sound right. White smoke, no power, knocking noises perhaps and strange exhaust sounds. If me I will take it to the dealer for further investigation. Perhaps you have the receipt for your petrol fill up just in case. Sounds like something wrong with either petrol or the intake system, fuel mixture, egr , or something along these. 

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This may seem a ridiculous question but, from the symptoms described, I assume that the last fill-up was actually petrol?

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Diesel nozzle won't fit into gasoline vehicle's tank. 
It is possible only by for refueling from a fuel Canister 😞

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Yep, Petrol fill up... Service once a year... Hybrid check done as part of that... I've been out in it and done the whole hour sitting in ready mode (first 20min, the engine was pretty much constant running)... took it out for a few miles and no issues. Suspect she had some sort of contaminant in petrol and allied to flat Battery it was not having it. 

Problem is she has now lost faith in the car, and wants to change it (possibly for petrol only) as now distrusts Hybrids for her such infrequent/low mileage. 

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Check the level of ICE cooling fluid.  Maybe you have damaged the EGR cooler and cooling fluid is sprayed into exaust circuit.

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