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Motor rattling while driving


Vins213
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2 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

spark plugs

on my next 90k km I have to change the 4 spark plugs, maybe the rattle will decrease more

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1 minute ago, Vins213 said:

on my next 90k km I have to change the 4 spark plugs, maybe the rattle will decrease more

If it’s from them yes, but usually spark o,ups misfire likely to trigger fault codes. 

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What would be the best way trying to avoid the EGR troubles? 

I guess all these on and off cycles of the ICE are not preventive but makes the EGR system work, valve open and closes, but I guess on the motorway where the valve is closed and ICE on it’s the best way to prevent clogging over time.

So a lot of driving in the city at low speed is quite bad I guess. 

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4 minutes ago, JCT-DK said:

What would be the best way trying to avoid the EGR troubles? 

I guess all these on and off cycles of the ICE are not preventive but makes the EGR system work, valve open and closes, but I guess on the motorway where the valve is closed and ICE on it’s the best way to prevent clogging over time.

So a lot of driving in the city at low speed is quite bad I guess. 

don't confuse EGR with GPF

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I hope I don’t but the EGR valve controls the amount of exhaust gases being led back into the engine right? To speed up the engine temperature and keep the carbon dioxide low while engine is warming up?

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So soothe in the exhaust gases is making the engine clogging up?

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You can’t prevent soot accumulation on either of these. If there is a burning there is a smoke people says and same applies for any dirt that happens as a byproduct. Best you can do for your engines is use a quality fuel, regular oil changes and always maintain on time or earlier but ever late. Drive your cars as normally and don’t be afraid to push them accelerate faster from time to time. That’s all pretty much. 

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Here a video about your cars egr. It looks similar to the 1.8 hybrids. You can remove the pipe and see what is the condition inside. Then remove egr and clean if necessary. No need to do anything on wire testing, opening or closing. However to complete the job correctly you will need to remove the intake manifold and clean all 4 small holes that’s supply air from the egr , clean the throttle body and the sensor next to it. And also remove and clean the cooler. It’s a big job . 

 

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yes, already seen 🙂 the position on the 3rd restyle is a bit different, a little easier 

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Is soot accumulation that bad on GPF and EGR on petrol engines?

There was buildup with my diesels but I rarely had major problems with them. (Well, the EGR anyway - The DPFs were well known to develop problems, but I left the DERV boat before having to deal with one of those!)

I always assumed with petrol, the higher exhaust temps would burn them off pretty quickly. If you only do a lot of short journeys so the engine never gets hot, I can imagine it becoming an issue, but a good hard run on the motorway or fast A-road would probably sort that out, like it does with a diesel...?

 

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Is the mk3 with gpf?

I thought only the mk4 was with gpf?

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I think that's correct; I was just asking in general due to what above posts were saying!

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Yes off course.

But still longer drives with ICE on operating temperatures without the on and off cycles like in the city make sooth and EGR troubles  a lesser problem.

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All hybrids since 2010 has gpf, is it not this box next to the cat itself? 
In your Yaris mk3 the egr looks different from the 1.8 hybrids 2010-2015 that has the typical egr issue. You have coolant running through the egr valve as well as through the cooler , and the egr exhaust pipe seems longer , away from the cat and heat.
On the video that car has very clean system, either is low miles or simply better than 1.8 gen 3.
Another’s thing about egr issues is the oil consumption, higher the consumption the higher is the amount of soot accumulation.
Here you can see what 100k miles looks like from my car egr system. Nothing in comparison to the Yaris. , it’s like a Diesel engine. 🫢

image.thumb.jpeg.961f8f2b2daf569f33102e64f78cb284.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.7ddf4767e4779d7bcd604f2869bcc305.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.9b2d72b30dd92ec5e643862abe19b5b5.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.a35d5d97a121295c3548dbfdff620900.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.aa7554a7c8e3f790711fbbb2625aca5f.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.3b44109f908acef789bfc4bde10a9ed6.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.29859b5f18752f103861e75a3f08723c.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.116528fdd7584173c8bb63fbf388d0ef.jpeg

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So if also the mk3 has a gpf it needs to regenerate itself like a diesel with dpf?

I haven’t noticed that mine does it. I guess it should when the exhaust pressure rises as the soot is accumulated.

 

 

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1 hour ago, JCT-DK said:

So if also the mk3 has a gpf it needs to regenerate itself like a diesel with dpf?

I haven’t noticed that mine does it. I guess it should when the exhaust pressure rises as the soot is accumulated.

 

 

There is no petrol gpf regeneration. Gpf in petrol cars is just another cat. Few motorway trips at 60mph + for 30min + and your engine and exhaust will be as good as new. You can always add some petrol additives to help burn the soot accumulated, not on the egr though. 

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Cool thanks for enlightening me.

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  • 9 months later...

105k km, original spark plugs, the rattle is much more invasive when ICE turns off with vibration also and at minimum rpm the car is not smooth as before when driving

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105k km for Toyota plugs not that bad, these can last well over 200k km. 

My first change was at 130k km, then every 100k km I do and has never been any change in engine work, sound or performance, efficiency. 
The petrol on the other hand is the biggest variable. If you experienced any abnormal engine work, sound and roughness just put petrol stabiliser additives and refill with better fuel, higher grade , octane and lower alcohol content if available. 

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1 minute ago, TonyHSD said:

105k km for Toyota plugs not that bad, these can last well over 200k km. 

My first change was at 130k km, then every 100k km I do and has never been any change in engine work, sound or performance, efficiency. 
The petrol on the other hand is the biggest variable. If you experienced any abnormal engine work, sound and roughness just put petrol stabiliser additives and refill with better fuel, higher grade , octane and lower alcohol content if available. 

same station, nearly 1 year of refill petrol, no extra additives

the rattle sound is really annoying 😞 

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