Mk1 Yaris gear linkages

[BigKevB]

Having successfully transplanted a gearbox obtained from Trent Salvage into my son's Yaris, I have now turned my attentions to the gear selection mechanism. From my research on this and other sites, I am aware the Mk1 gear selection has been a topic of much discussion, but since most threads on this topic are quite old, the images and/or videos have been deleted over time leaving me with a few questions based on the main problem I now have, which is the difficulty in selecting reverse gear:

1. Mention is made of a "counter balance" type of linkage cable... I suspect this is actually a cable end with an adjustable end rather than a crimped end. Perhaps someone could confirm this? Having had the mechanism apart and removed free play in the ball/socket joint of the stick and the lower/smaller ball/socket joint for the forwards/backwards cable, I now think that and adjuster would be necessary. Some threads talk about cable recalibration etc...

2. Are the cables from Mk2 and onwards going to fit (and thereby provide the adjuster)? The American/European sites I found which show parts listings seem to show that the ends look very similar design (except for the adjuster) and the forward/back cable certainly has enough slack to cater for any small difference in length there might. In my mind, as long as the cable ends attach in the same way, and they are close to being the same length, they should be compatible... the photos of housings and sticks available on eBay show the design has not changed much there either...

3. When I fitted the box, I used 75w90 Transmission oil as per the manual, but other sites/threads seem to imply that using something like Redline MTL or Mobil1 Fully Synth are helpful. Is this going to make a big difference to gear selection?(just don't want to waste oil/money if the difference is negligible)

4. Does anyone have any other suggestions/nuggets of wisdom on this topic?

Box swap thread here for reference:

Thanks in advance for your replies, 

Kev

[flash22]

Just seen this thread. part number for the cables is 33820-0D020

iirc the cable adjustment is done at the shifter

 

P10 info is thin on the ground

[BigKevB]

Thanks @flash22 , I had found that part number.

I am hoping someone else might have more ideas or have a tried and tested solution?

[flash22]

try find the service manual RM952E - there a plenty of supplements that reference it but not the actual RM

[BigKevB]

9 minutes ago, flash22 said:

try find the service manual RM952E - there a plenty of supplements that reference it but not the actual RM

Thanks, I will have a dig... Perhaps someone else has access to this that works in a T service dept? @Parts-King?

 

[flash22]

No reference to the linkage

 

06 MANUAL TRANSAXLE (C153).pdf

[BigKevB]

27 minutes ago, flash22 said:

No reference to the linkage

 

06 MANUAL TRANSAXLE (C153).pdf 736.89 kB · 1 download

Thanks, all very familiar after doing the gearbox swap last Friday...

My findings so far relate to the wear and tear on the actual linkage joints, i.e. the "bush" crimped on to the engine side of the cable and the pin protruding on the gearbox selector itself.

I managed to eliminate most of the "slack" in the ball/socket joint and in the internal end of the cable/connector using a tight winding of plumbing PTFe tape and grease... This eliminated most of the "floppiness" of the gear lever itself.

It seems to me that the remaining issue is that the "throw" of the cable in charge of the forward/back movement of the lever does not go far enough... I am considering my options on the engine side of that cable, either with a brass bush or something similar to tighten up that wear/tear...

 

[APS]

Is the difficulty caused by the shift cable adjustment or the box itself?

i.e. if you disconnect the cables, can you easily put the box in reverse 'manually'?

From what I can tell the original Yaris cables are not adjustable.  You could buy another set of cables and cut off the plastic rod end. Thread the cable (M6?) and put a new rod end on. Look at the cables for the older MR2s AW11 and WS20 for inspiration.

Regarding oil - 75w90 will be fine.

[flash22]

The forward/back cable needs adjustment, i will see if anything else has the same setup

[BigKevB]

Before (notice the gap in the ball/socket joint at about 9-10 o'clock)

After

 

Similar job done on the "cup" that sits in the cable connector at the bottom of the lever (no photos)

 

[BigKevB]

2 minutes ago, APS said:

Is the difficulty caused by the shift cable adjustment or the box itself?

i.e. if you disconnect the cables, can you easily put the box in reverse 'manually'?

From what I can tell the original Yaris cables are not adjustable.  You could buy another set of cables and cut off the plastic rod end. Thread the cable (M6?) and put a new rod end on. Look at the cables for the older MR2s AW11 and WS20 for inspiration.

Regarding oil - 75w90 will be fine.

The cable runs free, need to get my big mits into the engine bay to try the "manual" selection method...
Thanks for the confirmation of the oil, that's the conclusion I came to (it is actually semi-synthetic)

Interesting idea on the blending of cables... might be worth trying... I know a lot of manufacturers use a big parts bin to build something so I have seen the cables in question are also used on other models, which seem to have similar issues, e.g. Aygo and C1 etc.. 

[flash22]

It's the same setup as the Aygo, the ball and socket can wear, i cant remember, but it's likely a self adjusting cable that isn't adjusting

the Mk2 and IQ have a cable adjustment

 

[BigKevB]

Quick update to close this thread. The gearbox I received from the breakers had a corroded linkage pin on the selector for the forward/back motion of the stick.  I removed the selector mechanism from the box and then cleaned up the corrosion on the pin with some wet/dry paper. Then I measured the pin on both old/new boxes and the one from the breakers was actually LESS worn than the old one that came out of the car... so I greased it up and put it back in. A test drive after shows the selection now seems much better, so I am writing this off as a "sticky linkage" issue... I should have spotted this on reassembly last week 😖

[flash22]

Years of being in a car then pressure washed and stuck on a shelf to drip dry

well, at least you got the job done

[BigKevB]

On 8/4/2023 at 11:54 AM, BigKevB said:

Quick update to close this thread. The gearbox I received from the breakers had a corroded linkage pin on the selector for the forward/back motion of the stick.  I removed the selector mechanism from the box and then cleaned up the corrosion on the pin with some wet/dry paper. Then I measured the pin on both old/new boxes and the one from the breakers was actually LESS worn than the old one that came out of the car... so I greased it up and put it back in. A test drive after shows the selection now seems much better, so I am writing this off as a "sticky linkage" issue... I should have spotted this on reassembly last week 😖

Well, perhaps the problem is not resolved... now gears 2,4,R are all troublesome...

I suspect new cables may be needed unless anyone else has some new ideas?  

[BigKevB]

6 hours ago, BigKevB said:

Well, perhaps the problem is not resolved... now gears 2,4,R are all troublesome...

I suspect new cables may be needed unless anyone else has some new ideas?  

Can anyone "in the know" confirm whether the gear control cables on the 1.0 SCP10 models are compatible with those from the SCP12 1.3 models? The 1.4 Diesel models and the 1.3 petrol models have the same part number on the EPC-DATA websites, but the SCP10 1.0 model differs by a few digits... they look visually similar and some of the breakers are selling both as "Yaris gear control cables"

SCP12 part number is 33820-0D020

SCP10 part number is 33530-0D010

 

The aftermarket spares available seem to favour the SCP10 part, e.g. "First Line FKG1197" but the Tech folks at First Line say they don't make the SCP12 part... but I have found a "LINEX 44.44.03" which says it is the right part...

[flash22]

2nd and 4th are push gears the cable push the linkage

i cant find any cross between between the 2 number but i will have a deeper look on later Yaris there is a procedure to fit the cable i will have a look at the yaris verso info i have as it uses the same cable

 

[BigKevB]

On 8/15/2023 at 9:43 AM, BigKevB said:

Well, perhaps the problem is not resolved... now gears 2,4,R are all troublesome...

I suspect new cables may be needed unless anyone else has some new ideas?  

So, I dismantled the gear lever housing again last night to find that the PTFE tape bodge had failed, the tape had disintegrated and the free-play in the ball and socket of the lever was as bad as before. So, I redid the bodge using electrical tape and now, after assembly with grease etc,  there is almost no play in the ball and socket (again) but selecting R is still extremely difficult. 

  

I am seeing two different types of housings on available for this model of the Yaris, one which is black like the one I have, and the other is white and seems to come from the Japanese  built cars... are they interchangeable? Would the white one be better? There is a difference in the part numbers too

French  33530-0D030 vs Japanese 33530-52080 (possibly for the SCP10 1.0 engines...)

White one for reference...