12v battery maintenance, issues, etc.

[Max_Headroom]

24 minutes ago, CruxisCore said:

I drive to my city of origin to meet my parents (a few hour drive) every now and then, so maybe have it charging on those trips or something. Something regular but not every week. Or if the battery holds up,

If you are driving regularly and doing this bigger run every so often i wouldn't worry about the 12v Battery. 

I have breakdown cove through my insurance which is cheaper than buying it separately having said that  i will drive my hybrid a few times a week instead of looking at it out of the window knowing the 12v Battery could soon be flat, having a new car and stressing about whether it'll start the next time you get in it is crazy just either drive the thing or buy a non hybrid.

[CruxisCore]

1 minute ago, Max_Headroom said:

If you are driving regularly and doing this bigger run every so often i wouldn't worry about the 12v battery. 

I have breakdown cove through my insurance which is cheaper than buying it separately having said that  i will drive my hybrid instead of looking at it out of the window so a flat 12v battery will not be something i worry about when i switch to hybrid

Yeah honestly I don't expect to run into issues driving nearly 30 thousand km a year, but I figured at like a 100€ I might as well be prepared to maybe not have to call AA or maybe help someone else from a pinch

[Max_Headroom]

I edited as you quoted  😉

 

If you are driving regularly and doing this bigger run every so often i wouldn't worry about the 12v Battery. 

I have breakdown cove through my insurance which is cheaper than buying it separately having said that  i will drive my hybrid a few times a week instead of looking at it out of the window  (as several members seem to) knowing the 12v Battery could soon be flat, having a new car and stressing about whether it'll start the next time you get in it is crazy just either drive the thing or buy a non hybrid.

[Cyker]

The next best option is just to leave it in the house and only bring it with you when e.g. going on road trips or long journeys with overnight stays.

The car is very unlikely to have a 12v problem during use - It's most likely when it's first used at the beginning of the day.

[Roy124]

I checked my Battery regularly and found no significant leakage month on month.   I cannot remember when I checked it last.  Following this thread prompted me to look.  It is still showing 4 LED which indicates a charge of over 75%.

I keep it in the engine bay, on a ledge in front of the radiator. 

Cyker's tip is a good one, get in the habit of taking it with you on trips.  Apart from under use, the biggest risk for a flat Battery is leaving a light on.  The best chance of that is unloading the car in the dark. 

[Dala]

10 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Can you expand on this?

What is smart charging the battery, the DC/DC convertor or a CTEK or similar? 

Are you saying smart charging kills calcium batteries? 

 

 

3 hours ago, anchorman said:

What evidence have you got?

small sample of driving measured by BM6

it is not possible for the ECU to evaluate the full voltage of the car Battery from the value of 12.27V in approx. 2 minutes of driving

a calcium Battery requires a special Battery charger, unlike other batteries. You can fully charge a lead-calcium battery with a charger producing a voltage between 16.1 and 16.5 volts.
for example this charger:

https://www.elmag.eu/en/automatic-battery-charger-12-v-7da66f46-7664-4ee9-9078-1e1bcaf5e5c0.html

information about the car battery from the Turkish manufacturer in the Yaris Hybrid:

http://www.mutlu.ge/battery-maintenance/

charging ca/ca car battery with a voltage of 14.3V is insufficient
therefore, it is necessary to use, for example, the RECON program at CTEK :

"The reason for the CTEK charger AGM+RECOND mode:
So if destratification doesn’t benefit an AGM battery, why does a CTEK charger provide an AGM + RECOND mode? The answer is that Calcium batteries can benefit from this programme. As calcium batteries typically charge at higher voltages, they are better suited to the AGM programme mode and its higher voltage (+0.3v). Hence it being possible to use the AGM and RECOND programmes together." 

https://www.oliverjobson.co.uk/cars/guide-ctek-chargers-and-efb-agm-and-gel-batteries-recon-mode-sulphation-and-stratification/

[Roy124]

I did ask CTEK and they recommended use the Lead Acid program.

How does that compare? 

And are we sure the Cross has a Calcium Battery? 

PS, just done a search for a YC Battery and several sites say No Battery. 

[Dala]

16 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

I did ask CTEK and they recommended use the Lead Acid program.

How does that compare? 

And are we sure the Cross has a Calcium battery? 

- If the manufacturer does not know the Battery type - it will recommend settings for regular lead acid batteries
 

-   

- I preferred to look under the back seat 🙂

[Roy124]

Dala, thanks but that comes under the TFD heading.  Very strange it's not coming up in the searches. 

[Cyker]

Calcium batteries need a higher charge voltage apparently I've seen 14.8v bandied about as a minimum; My Mk4 seemed to max out around 14.7v so I don't think it would support a calcium Battery.

From what others have seen, the Yarisusiesieusues just use a normal flooded/gel lead acid Battery...

 

[Derek.w]

11 hours ago, Roy124 said:

What smart charger has capacity LED?  I don't think CTEK does. 

Some Ctek have a bank of leds on the MXS 3.8 when the 3 led is on Battery capacity is 80%

& the 6 led is fully charged 100% capacity.

It also restarts automaticly if the power is disconnected then teconnected some smart charges dont.

[Dala]

50 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

.....PS, just done a search for a YC battery and several sites say No battery. 

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

[Roy124]

22 minutes ago, Cyker said:

From what others have seen, the Yarisusiesieusues just use a normal flooded/gel lead acid battery...

Although others swear it must be AGM as its inside the car. 

[Dala]

For example, the 2020 Yaris Hybrid is this:

 

 

[Roy124]

Dala, having studied the YUASA info and decoded the info from the Battery photo you sent, I can say confidently that the second label is wrong, 😁. 

The 340 indicates a 12v Battery of 40AHr capacity yet it shows it is a 35AHr Battery. 

Then the other detail is CCA264A and the first Yaris one I'd CCA240A.  One specifies Calcium and the other doesn't. 

The YUASA site helps not a lot. 

I am inclined to decide CCA as Calcium Calcium Acid. 

Not easy  getting the gen. 

[Derek.w]

15 minutes ago, Dala said:

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

I replaced my original Muilu 28800-K0020 Battery (35Ah 264A Battery with a Yuasa type YBX5202 its 45Ah 440amps

Please duble check the poles polarity as it wont fit the Mk3 Yaris.

Note its a double type lid and anti tip proof construction with a vent tube connection going to the outside of the car via a tube running down and under the floor so no need tobe GEL TYPE.

 

[Derek.w]

57 minutes ago, Dala said:

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

The Yaris cross 2021 is fitted with the same spec Battery AS the 2020 Yaris MK4 but from a diffrent supplier interesting!.

[Cyker]

1 hour ago, Roy124 said:

Although others swear it must be AGM as its inside the car. 

Yeah I was guilty of that too - We were told internal batteries had to be AGM for safety reasons, and earlier models with internal batteries did indeed have AGM as standard, so the assumption was all hybrids with internal 12v batteries would, but everyone who's looked at their factory Mk4 Yaris Battery so far has found a bog standard wet-cell LN0-size Battery with not even a vent from what I've seen.

I'm still a bit confused about the whole Calcium thing and how it affects batteries as they have different needs to normal batteries and even AGM, but that does seem to be what they have!

CCA normally stands for Cold Cranking Amps but may just be the model prefix? Who knows in this case!  

[anchorman]

Somebody was worried about acid dripping on the family if the car rolled over.  That Yuasa Battery has a spill proof lid if that is a concern.  I’m personally not concerned about such things.  I’m not concerned about the possibility of my Ctek damaging my calcium Battery either.  I’d rather have a slightly effected charged Battery than a perfect flat one.  This subject gets blown way out of proportion. 

[Roy124]

OK, two simple questions:

What is that Battery type? 

What CTEK mode is the  best? 

[Dala]

According to this table, we can be calm 🙂

https://solarstik.com/stikopedia/battery-care-lead-acid/

[Derek.w]

23 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Dala, having studied the YUASA info and decoded the info from the battery photo you sent, I can say confidently that the second label is wrong, 😁. 

The 340 indicates a 12v battery of 40AHr capacity yet it shows it is a 35AHr battery. 

Then the other detail is CCA264A and the first Yaris one I'd CCA240A.  One specifies Calcium and the other doesn't. 

The YUASA site helps not a lot. 

I am inclined to decide CCA as Calcium Calcium Acid. 

Not easy  getting the gen. 

CCA stands for Cold Cranking Amps its an all types of batterys regardless of having no starter motor.

[Derek.w]

On 5/22/2023 at 9:53 AM, Roy124 said:

Can you expand on this?

What is smart charging the battery, the DC/DC convertor or a CTEK or similar? 

Are you saying smart charging kills calcium batteries? 

 

Both are smart chargers.

A charger that is micro processor controlled is a smart charger it can change the charging voltage as a example.

Non smart chargers ie standard chargers are just a step down transformer with a diode arangment or a bridge rectifier module containing four diodes plus a ameter or one or two leds for charging state.

[Derek.w]

On 5/23/2023 at 7:50 PM, Dala said:

According to this table, we can be calm 🙂

https://solarstik.com/stikopedia/battery-care-lead-acid/

Yes no problem if you in the green area!

[CruxisCore]

My Toyota dealer offers a 230v engine block heater that can also be split to charge the 12v Battery (and an indoor heater too if you want to spend more). I'm tempted cos it would largely remove this worry for me entirely and since we have cold winters, a warm engine probably helps the consumption and hybrid system too. Just the problem that we only have one of those car heating posts for our apartment (2 parking spots, but only one is within that 230v electricity post). The lady has a biogas operated Volvo V70 and does rather short drives, so it's a pretty massive difference in that big cars consumption on shorter trips, as the biogas doesnt kick in until engine is warm enough and will use petrol until that point.

But maybe I just steal her parking spot a few times a winter and put the Yaris Cross on a charger