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Auris Clutch replacement diy


roks
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Well what a surprise, AISIN clutch kit inside a toyota box?

 

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Yeah they make clutches for Toyota - A lot of their parts are Aisin, Denso, Akibono etc.

At least it's a jappy clutch - IIRC the Toyota clutches for the French Yarisuseseeues were made by Valeo because of EU rules about minimum local manufactured components

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No surprise as Toyota own 10% of Aisin and probably some of the ones branded Toyota are also made by Aisin.

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Just need the favourable weather one weekend and I'll have swap it over, hopefully weekend after next?

The axle nuts are the only obstacle I see, I've been taking hub cap off and soaking them.

I have all the required bits, got an extra 1/2" breaker bar, just incase the other breaks.

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Are you doing this on your own?? It can be a right ******* of a job and having a strong helper can really... well... help.. :laugh: 

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3 hours ago, Cyker said:

Are you doing this on your own?

Mostly, I'll my son help he during removal/install of the gearbox. I'll have my diy tranny adaptor on the hydraulic jack to lower/raise the gearbox.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, i think I am in a bit of a pickle...😬

I've have changed clutch, everything in back in unfortunately the clutch pedal slams to the pedal, if I pull it up it slams up.

I tried to bleed it and bit air did come out but not sure what to do now.

Any ideas?  

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Bleed it and keep bleeding it until there is absolutely no air - Even if there is a little air in there, the clutch won't work properly. Also check that the slave cylinder is attached properly and the hydraulic lines are on snuggly!

Bit concerning if there is no resistance at all though - You sure the pressure plate is on properly and the release bearing and fork are all lined up properly etc.?

 

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Hi Roks ! 

   After bleeding the cylinder, you can adjust the pedal travel, adjusting it's rod.

  All that you need is a 8mm spanner and another one 12 or 13mm.

  Undo the nut and adjust the rod by hand. I did this operation few times in order to adjust my pedal as I like to be.

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Thanks @Cyker, if it was normal slave cylinder I wouldn't be panicking.

I literally was dreading taking it all apart because of internal leaks in the concentric slave.

Stuck camera in the inspection hole, sigh of relief seeing that it was dry so I continued to go back and forth, doing the manual bleeding. (Had to use normal spanner as my flare nut wrench was too fat to turn) 20240513_22_23_29.thumb.png.fa2d2cc1d8ab405bdec66124ef697956.png20240513_22_22_42.thumb.png.9e8a29de0400bb5c0220c4dd5fece8d1.png

!Removed! nora, took me almost 2hours and it's now driveable. What a bleeding, never done that much pedal pushing, would a pressure bleeder help?

I had to top up with dot4, the reservoir was greenish, but new one is like light brown I think. Then it was coming out murky.20240514_001428.thumb.jpg.6cccba06d0dc3cc3718d83a52ca09604.jpg

It's now apparent the break fluid is dirty and need a flush....that's job for another day.

I've driven a shirt distance, pedal is super soft, changing all gear ok.  Not sure I'd need to bleed more? I did it till there was no bubbles, then each time I open the bleeder, not much came out.

I've torqued everything to spec, unfortunately there are some sort of creeking noise and knocking noise over a slighest bumps. I struggled to take the drop links off, !Removed! #@£#@# design with allen key in the middle, tried channel locks as the allen key rounded off, still could not take it off. I am pretty sure they are shot.

Had to remove the front crossmember sub-assembly as I could not maneuver the gear box out, looks frightening but its quite easy and then no need to waste time removing engine mounts/brackets, just remove the centre bolts.20240512_115010.thumb.jpg.d45cec80af402c67f068946bf1e86b05.jpg

Totally forgot that I tucked away the rear mounts, should have installed that before raising the gear box, what a struggle to get that in place after, it didn't look it was possible to come out, took it out from top and place in position. One broken cable clip and maybe dented head shield.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing, lots revisits is steps, probably because I was forgetful....

I don't think you should do it on your own like I did due to last minute 

 

 

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1 hour ago, tavy said:

 After bleeding the cylinder, you can adjust the pedal travel, adjusting it's rod.

I'll look into that, is it just the for pedal height and not adjusting the transmission control select cable?

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Yes,for pedal height only.

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Job well done. Do like your improvised gearbox trolley jack. Thanks for the cross member tip. Hopefully wont need it, but useful info nonetheless.

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16 minutes ago, solero said:

Do like your improvised gearbox trolley jack

Couldn't have done without it, but it wasn't easy, had to push the gearbox and trolly under the car and the roll the gearbox on the trolly as there wasn't enough clearance under, hindsight, I should have raised the car bit more.

I used sammler pieces of wood and a jack to adjust and line up the holes, it almost went in until the last 5mm, then it would not budge, lowered the engine and some more fine tuning on the trolly, kicked it place, literally me lying on the floor on my back and whack, that click I was relieved to hear. I think it was stuck on the dowel pins, not sure if a bit of grease on them would have help.

I'm not sure if I will ever dare to attempt this on my own ever again :sweat:

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Well done, that’s a big big job especially if you do all that on the street. 👌👍👏

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58 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

all that on the street

It was like a visitor parking in the estate, was there 3 days almost, should have finished it in a day but some silly mistakes, try to take short cuts that failed and then stubborn nuts. One of one on the reinforcement support was welded on but its inside the fold, that was rusted inside and stripped off, it did come out after a lot of time wasting wedging in a spanner (that williams guy was grinding it of in some of his videos), that's such a bad design.

Then there was time wasted trying to take off the drop links, unsuccessful, think they are busted now, will probably have to grind off and replace, another **** design, at least put a slot for a spanner to stop it from turning.

Other major obstacle was the passenger driveshaft, there is not enough room to whack it properly and had to be very careful not to damage the boots.

I lost a mounting bolt for the air intake box last night while bleeding the damn thing and a square plastic piece the clips on to the bumper then you screw the undercover through it. Not too bad I think 🙂.

I also need to revisit the starter motor to set the correct torque, the manual said the bell housing bolts with washers are 33Nm and without washers 37Nm but since the starter motor bolts had washers I set the same, missed the bit that said 'start motor 37Nm'.

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1 hour ago, roks said:

It was like a visitor parking in the estate, was there 3 days almost, should have finished it in a day but some silly mistakes, try to take short cuts that failed and then stubborn nuts. One of one on the reinforcement support was welded on but its inside the fold, that was rusted inside and stripped off, it did come out after a lot of time wasting wedging in a spanner (that williams guy was grinding it of in some of his videos), that's such a bad design.

Then there was time wasted trying to take off the drop links, unsuccessful, think they are busted now, will probably have to grind off and replace, another **** design, at least put a slot for a spanner to stop it from turning.

Other major obstacle was the passenger driveshaft, there is not enough room to whack it properly and had to be very careful not to damage the boots.

I lost a mounting bolt for the air intake box last night while bleeding the damn thing and a square plastic piece the clips on to the bumper then you screw the undercover through it. Not too bad I think 🙂.

I also need to revisit the starter motor to set the correct torque, the manual said the bell housing bolts with washers are 33Nm and without washers 37Nm but since the starter motor bolts had washers I set the same, missed the bit that said 'start motor 37Nm'.

Highly admire your labour and motivation. I do also basic service on my driveway but changing a clutch is way more work and something I personally would not be able to complete. 👌

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Those CSCs can be a pig to bleed, I've done exactly the same job on vauxhall and a mate of mine who was the pedal man on the bleeding process had success rapidly pumping the clutch pedal repeatedly. It's not strictly correct procedure but it worked by brute force to displace air from CSC 

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7 hours ago, roks said:

I'll look into that, is it just the for pedal height and not adjusting the transmission control select cable?

  Sorry Rocks for my previous quick answer, the role of this adjustable rod is not for adjusting pedal height itself, but it's for adjusting bitting point height.

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Well done for getting through that and surviving! :laugh:  And on your own too?? :eek: 

I wasn't kidding when I said it's a right ******* of a job, but you've done it now and hopefully won't need to touch it again for a loooong time, and bask in the satisfaction that you've completed a job that even most masochists would shy away from :laugh: 

 

I wouldn't adjust the clutch pedal as it should be self adjusting - If it's off, it may be something else needs checking first (Or just the fluid needs a good flush as you say - Would be worth doing until all the fluid is all clear!). This is one of those things where you'll adjust it, then find something else to fix, then have to adjust it back again :laugh: 

Didn't realize the 1.6 had a CSC - They have a lot less fluid volume than a normal slave-cylinder so as you found need a shedload more pumping to cycle the fluid through! 

 

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2 hours ago, tavy said:

bitting point height

Thanks, the biting point is lot lower, say 40/60 where as be it was 70/30.

I am going to bleed it more when I do the brake flash.

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2 hours ago, Cyker said:

Well done for getting through that and surviving!

Thanks, getting the sticks from the wife, I think I am grounded, I promised not to do any major jobs, just small ones, like changing the drop links 🙂.

 

Any recommendations for aftermarket drop links? Toyota ones are £99 each.

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1 hour ago, roks said:

Thanks, getting the sticks from the wife, I think I am grounded, I promised not to do any major jobs, just small ones, like changing the drop links 🙂.

 

Any recommendations for aftermarket drop links? Toyota ones are £99 each.

Blueprint, Febi, First line. These three brands are high quality aftermarket for Japanese cars. 

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21 hours ago, roks said:

I'm not sure if I will ever dare to attempt this on my own ever again :sweat:

😄 I can only imagine the pain and suffering.

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20 hours ago, roks said:

Thanks, getting the sticks from the wife, I think I am grounded, I promised not to do any major jobs, just small ones, like changing the drop links 🙂.

Noooo she should be praising your technical achievement and offering back rubs and/or foot massages as a reward! :crybaby: 

Why is the world so cruel!

 

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