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I have water in my Yaris too ... Evian, Smart and Highland Spring if anyone wants some

Once I had an Uber ride to the airport in ioniq hybrid and the display showed 68mpg which is really good and I had a chat with the guy who owns the car since new and he said that it is economical indeed and he had a Prius previously. I asked him which one is the better car and more efficient, he replied- the Prius is the winner, unfortunately too expensive for him to buy. My old Auris hybrid currently deliver 55mpg and this will go up to 60mpg in the summer, mixture of motorways and urban drives. Another interview thing is that after the new hybrid battery replacement I only gained extra 3mpg , which means that ageing it’s not an issue in these power trains, at least not before the warning lights come up. Toyota make best hybrids imo.

That was meant to say "do not know" As @Flatcoat says, the battery never goes fully flat, and the other reason for this beyond longevity is so that you can always utilise the fully power in HEV mode, should that be required. ie you are never "dragging around a heavy useless flat battery" as many motoring journalists like to say about PHEVs, it is always functional either for EV driving, or HEV driving. You're never reliant purely on ICE.

A few cars do this...my VW Golf has the same function and it really does make a difference.

Ha. Just this afternoon I saw a (probable) Merc backing out of a neighbours drive with the badge/latch at an angle. I wondered about it ... now I know 🙂

Hi, the hybrid Toyota aren’t much different from non hybrid ones. They are very similar, simple and easy to work on cars. The 87000 miles aren’t too high for a 7 years old car , but again each used car is strictly individual case, it can be a good buy or total disaster. You need to run all usual second hand car checks and also if the car has full service, when was last serviced and where, has it done a hybrid battery health check which gives you another year warranty on the hybrid battery. Don’t worry to buy used hybrid up to 12 years old , anything older hybrid battery will be on its end, something to be taken into account. Good luck

Thank you everyone for all your comments and advice - I am very grateful for the time and effort you have given to answering my question.! As a result, I am now convinced that a Yaris 2017-on 1.5 manual is the way forward! I will now set about trying to find a good low mileage model....which looking at MotorTrader shouldn't be too much of a problem. The 'Tech' model seems a good idea, especially for my fashion-conscious 20yo daughter! (She absolutely hates my Camry by the way - wants to know why I don't buy something 'better' like a Range Rover - Little does she know.....Ha!!) Thanks again - hopefully I can return the help some day Tony

Question: If there are roundabout signs but no roundabout is it still a roundabout? There used to be one here but they removed it, the signs and some of the give way lines are still there but really easy to miss and getting worse every week. https://www.google.com/maps/@53.8322468,-2.2177362,3a,75y,4.2h,80.94t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sI5Ke1Q7UexSjjaNRXT0qfw!2e0!6shttps:%2F%2Fstreetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com%2Fv1%2Fthumbnail%3Fpanoid%3DI5Ke1Q7UexSjjaNRXT0qfw%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D149.48015%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

This is what I did and after the initial charge to see how it performed in EV mode I used HEV mode with the traction battery showing zero miles EV mode range. This still has around 30% charge which is used to support the HEV mode. As I said above post in my normal day to day driving it’s left in EV mode and then let the car sort out the switch to HEV mode.

GR Sport. Drives nicely but some as an oldie I find some of the functions are slightly over complicated- whatever happened to setting the cruise control by simply pushing the set button 🤔

As it's a new car I would use HEV for the first 1000 KM. Like a lot of people I have been using EV mostly as it's so quiet and enjoyable. The car always starts in EV and I have driven mainly 25 miles trips, my Toyota app says I have been driving 80% in EV mode. I realised that I need to " break in" the engine so in the last couple of weeks I have started to use HV mode only but the rav4 still does EV mode when you're in the town centre. I think it does it in conjunction with the sat nav. When it reaches 1000 miles I will change the oil + oil filter, after that I would use EV mode for short trips. I agree with above comments about ECO and NORMAL modes, there isn't much difference in " fuel consumption " if you just drive and not using aircon or heaters. I use normal mode but change to sport mode when I need to over take .

With regards the 302hp question - this figure applies to HEV mode, ie the electric motors working in conjunction with the ICE. In EV mode, best estimation of the total bhp I have been able to find a reference for is 236 (182 at the front, 54 at rear), however I do know know if one can simply add together the bhp figures for seperate ev motors, as I know that doesn't work for adding to the ICE figures due to different torque curves etc, but my understanding is that ev bhp/torgue curves are linear (until they flatten off at max). Don't quote me on that tho, as I'm not an engineer. Either way, the car is punchy enough in EV mode for virtually all legal driving scenarios you should encounter.

I've always left my PHEV in EV mode and let the car sort out the rest. Overall I've found this to be the best for fuel economy and when the traction battery is depleted for pure EV mode, down to 30%, the car will automatically switch to HEV mode. In either state the full power is available as if the conditions arise the ICE will kick in to supplement the EV only mode. Heavy acceleration, step hill decent will automatically kick in the HEV/ICE mode. (as will selecting front screen defrost?) The only time I select HEV mode is if I can see that the EV range will be just insufficient to get me home, say 4 miles to my destination and the EV mode range is say 5 miles, so I select the HEV mode the ICE will start and then I switch back to EV mode immedialtely . Once the ICE is warm the car will go back to EV mode and I get home knowing that the ICE is fully hot and not just kicked in when I need to stop and switch off. Just leave the car to do its thing and enjoy. It will take a few trips to get used to the car's noises and quirks.

I wish I had kept my 1.5 petrol Y20. Just service it, fill it up with fuel and when I barely used it for months it started first time every time. Perfect for an oap who does less than 3000 miles a year although I do like the extra space in the Yaris Cross and the convenience of the seamless gearbox.

I don't get the wind and road noise in my PHEV - no idea why it should be different to Nick's unless he is hyper sensitive. Also the stereo never needs to be anywhere near max to be really loud with the JBL and I like music loud. PHEV really is a big jump from HEV in all respects and the price is now just back to where it was at launch - not cheap but try to find a genuine competitor on all counts and you'll maybe think it's a bargain.

Can't pick it up (so no idea where they are) and 5 days for them to disappear ... I'd run. (But to be fair, these days I won't even consider a private sale - too many scammers in the game and I can afford to pay a bit more for peace of mind. Your risk aversion may vary.)

Yes. It's Light Whisky for dieters 😁 I personally prefer the full fat version which is a bit darker in colour and has a much better flavour

The last Toyota engine I know of that used a timing belt was the 1CD-FTV from around the mid 2000s - Every single one of their engines since then has used a chain!

Just placed my order this weekend for a Premiere Edition through my local Dealer. I absolutely can’t wait to get back in a Toyota. I drove a Yaris cross excel last year, knew I wanted one but didn’t bite the bullet. Then I heard of this premiere edition in khaki green and just couldn’t miss out on this one. I have been honestly told by the dealer they have no clarity or certainty on the production date and I should anticipate 6months to not get my hopes up. This wait is going to drag, but hopefully worth it 🙂

I was confronted with a cycle in lane 2 of the M18, and I was towing a caravan at the time. No real room to risk an emergency stop, and traffic fairly close in lanes 1, 2 and 3. So I put my hazard lights on, and this caused some hesitancy behind, which allowed me to gently steer around the bike. You can’t safely swerve with a caravan in tow.

It won't be a plug-in Yaris hybrid as they don't exist. Yaris Hybrid is a self-charging hybrid. It is just a more efficient and reliable petrol car, don't think of it as an EV. If Yaris 1.5L engine is similar to Auris/Prius, service history is important. Try to make sure it has been serviced on time every 12 months / 10k miles. Doesn't have to have been at Toyota, or at a garage at all (actually I'd probably prefer a DIY-serviced car as it's more likely to have been done well!) They are timing chain driven I believe, so no belt to worry about. You'll get another 80k+ out of the car but expect some repairs e.g. suspension/shocks type things. Maybe water pump. Look out for rust, them Toyotas will rust up on ya!

You are assuming he was wondering that. Personally as he may have been a cyclist my guess would be "I am sure there was something on here when I set off"

I think it’s fair to say they are fair weather devices. It’s always been a pain going back to my Mazdas of old but I always managed before that. If you were really inventive you could tee off the rear wash wipe and mount a jet above. Long pipe to a dash mounted squeezy bottle? Home alone style arm with a rag on it.? How about, glass mounted inside the rear screen where the wiper sweeps. It’s a challenge for somebody.

As my BiL drove off in his Mercedes I noticed the badge on the boot was half open. It turned out it was the reversing camera otherwise hidden behind the badge. Any, just out to polish mine.

If it is the toyota upgrade or aftermarket alarm, is usually a sign that the battery backup in the sounder is dead/dying if it is the bog standard alarm that honks the horn make sure your interior light works correctly from both doors and if you have a light in the boot check that is working too apart from that go get your 12v battery tested - if the voltage drops off, especially on a colder nights it could trigger the alarm and do other weird things like turn the headlights on (auto lights)

I think that it was probably this one... Pity it only seems to be available in black.

I had exactly the same on a brand new car, which I discovered after just a couple of weeks of ownership (first wash). There was no external sign of damage but it was loose at the bottom. Investigation revealed it is held in place by an internal bracket and the bottom arm was broken. Neither Toyota nor I could explain it. My best guess is that it happened during delivery but didn't become loose until I drove over a few pot holes and speed bumps. They repaired it under warranty which required the lower front section of the body work to be removed. Sounds like it is a bit of a weak spot, but at least the part is available. I did make me wonder if it is "designed" to break in order to save the light in a bump.

it depends on how much milage you intends to put on the car. For myself, as I'm a delivery driver (driving 20K annually), I would go for the low mileage to get more life out of the engine. But if I was doing normal driving (3 - 6K annually), the 80K should be fine. As for comfort goes, definitely MK2 on the steering wheel control and much better audio system.

Hi Iain, Sorry to hear about you being in pain. I've had sciatica several times in the past, is it possible that's what you're suffering with? I've been lucky in recent years and haven't had it return but it can be really painful, when at it's hieght mine felt like my legs were connected to the mains supply constantly. My recollection is that it starts high up near the base of the spine then travels down through the buttocks, thigh(s) down into the calfs and possibley the feet, caused by pressure on the main nerve that serves the leg(s). As you've had a referral already perhaps it's something else. Hope it gets sorted for you quickly.

ALL. Thank you very much for your advice, it’s been most helpful. Time to start driving it and experience the advantages of a phev🤞

Also, not sure if you're specifically asking about "driving modes" in the sense of the ECO/NORMAL/SPORT dial, but this one is a little bit of a ronseal "does what it says on the tin", although in my opinion any impact on economy from ECO vs normal is minimal at best. It essentially varies the throttle response from slow to fast. I spent a long time using it ECO when I first got the car, but then after about a year I tried out NORMAL and found there was very little impact on EV range, but the car was much more enjoyable to drive. SPORT is noticeably more responsive (and I think is more eager to switch to HEV for acceleration, but haven't done a huge amount of testing of this), and I will sometimes use it for overtaking, but otherwise I ignore it. It's not like the car has variable suspension or anything else to make the car handle differently - it's solely about acceleration/throttle response. I'd suggest have a play around with them and see what suits your driving style and regular routes etc.

Fitted these to my car, not the rubber strips.

Welcome to PHEV ownership! It sounds as though your dealer didn’t do a very good handover….. without repeating previous comments, it is worth noting the EV battery never actually goes flat. The battery management system leaves a buffer at the ‘top’ and ‘bottom’ of the batteries charged capacity to help with longevity. Without worrying too much about where the 306 horses come from just be happy with the circa 6 seconds 0-60 time!

I haven't driven a HEV RAV4, but I have no complaints with road or wind noise with my PHEV. Of course road surfaces and/or tyres can effect the noise the same as say high cross winds but these would create noise on any car. You can count on my vote for the PHEV.

I've found that it really does depend on road surfaces. There are sections of the M1 which I use frequently where it's really very noisy but others where it's becomes so quiet that you feel you've gone deaf, this is predominately tyre noise, some wind noise. I generally travel at an indicated 65mph, so probably 62mph real at higher speeds it does increase but again the road surface is the key. I'm still on the OEM tyres.

The 1.33 is a bit lacking in the lower RPM range when you put your foot down in a high gear (especially 6th) so change downs are usually necessary if you want a quick overtake. I usually go from 5th to 3rd and floor it, and once past the 2500 RPM point it will get pretty pokey and surprisingly rapid, but you do need to thrash the engine right up to the red line for fastest response, which I dont do that often as most people dont really buy a Yaris to be a sports car. It is there if you need it and are prepared to give the engine the boot to the highest RPM's, but yeah, for sedate driving, the 1.33 is OK and will easily return 55 - 60mpg if driven economically and using 6th whenever possible. For my mother, she cant tell any difference in her 1.5 to the 1.33 she had before and I cant even tell when her car is running the "Atkinson cycle" it is smooth and seamless. Eddie, she didnt really have a preference for a black Yaris, its just that it came up at a nearby dealer in Stafford when she needed to get a newer Yaris, had less than 9000 miles on the clock and was a reasonable price and spec. She didnt want a hybrid nor an auto, so she was limited really to Yaris's made before 2020, after which non hybrid Yaris was no longer sold in England, and she didnt therefore want a Mk4. Black is nice but shows the dirt easily and quickly gets smear marks all over it which dont look good when the sun shines on it. I think it looks quite smart when its clean, and I cant find any fault with the way the 1.5 engine it has drives.

This might be useful: https://mag.toyota.co.uk/rav4-plug-in-hybrid-fuel-efficiency-driving-tips/ 1) experiment. I would try HV at cruise speed on motorway so I could switch back to auto/EV in town at end of journey (accelerating is what uses up petrol, so EV mode in town stop/start, traffic lights, roundabouts, etc is best) 2) it always keeps itself enough battery in reserve to give full power - but only briefly I guess 3) as other reply, always available

So: Let the car choose the mode - it will run as an EV until it needs to start the ICE and that's just fine. Yes, it always has all the power that it is supposed to have. AWD is always available, though the car decides when and how to use it. Don't touch the Trail mode button - unless you are seriously off-roading you won't need it. 😉

There is something wrong with your car is all I can say. I have driven/owned well over 50 cars in my life and not many have bettered the RAV PHEV.

At motorway speeds you still get some wind noise but little road and engine noise. Pretty quiet most of the time as long as you treat the pedal sympathetically.

It is without doubt the best PHEV overall. But it's really noisy on the motorway. Wind and road noise. And the engine with CVT makes a loud whine. But these are really the only flaws. Hate to think how bad the noise is without the extra insulation. Only really an issue at 55mph and over. Motorway journeys at 70 plus mph and it's very loud. Expect the Lexus built on the same power train to be much more serene.

I thought I heard a while ago that there was extra insulation in the PHEV. I had previously ruled it out but I've been coming back to it, just because on paper it looks like the best plugin out there for anywhere close to reasonable money.

Well done 🙂. If I remember correctly, they are made of TPU (the plastic 'rubbery' phone cases are made from) and are a light friction-fit along the rest of the length of the channel, too. But yes, there isn't much holding them in!

My Cross Climates are perfectly acceptable - road, wind and engine noise are all at the same sort of level (until I hit the loud pedal!).

Certainly agree Richard the tyre/road noise is a bit horrendous in the RAV HEV. It's probably the one thing that will make me change to something else, unless a set of better tyres would help. The original Toyo tyres have done about 16,500mls so will need to wait a wee bit longer to change.

Thanks. Job done. Amazed these strips only held by 2 clips. Have cleaned the gutter now and saves me masking tape and time for polishing the roof..

Pop in and speak to them - ask if it has been in an accident and what repairs were done (if they didn't tell you at time of purchase). It may just be a loose bolt, something simple. Just remember (For a used car, “satisfactory quality” takes into account the car's age and mileage.) You have a right to reject something faulty and you're entitled to a full refund within 30 days of purchase in most cases. After 30 days, you lose the short-term right to reject the goods.

Yes.. agree. Its here a keeper also. We bought the IQ because we always liked that small Toyota and it was financially possible to buy one. Now we owned it for 6 months or so and it became love. Its really a brilliant car!

No..the big end..

To the gearstick?? 😅