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Phone the dealer up and tell them you are going to buy 5 litres of 0W/8 and a filter and bring it back while they change it. Tell them you are going to let Mazda GB know and that you want all your costs back. You are running round with completely the wrong oil in and it needs to come out. The engine relies on 0W for cold weather when it could starve parts of the engine of oil. Ignore daft videos about thin oil, that’s because somebody is ignorant about fluid dynamics. You can’t compress a fluid (within normal reason) and in an engine with very fine tolerances, you need low viscosity oil in cold weather to get it round fast. Get it out and get the correct oil in.

0w8 or 0w16 and at very bottom 0w20 , these are only oil viscosity types that you can use safely in your hybrid Toyota. Anything else is out of spec. Those 10w30 aren’t even so popular oils used in Europe, these are mostly USA and some Asian regions , perhaps difficult to find easily in shops either. Opieoils have them but they aren’t suitable for your engine. The problem is not only cold starts during cold weather, but any starts of the engine, since it’s a hybrid the engine starts and spins immediately at very high rpm so you need the right oil type and viscosity to have the required lubrication and protection.

One of the few criticisms I had of my Yaris and Cross was that you had to plan your overtakes carefully because it quickly ran out of steam. I personally would choose a 130 but I wouldn’t trust it until it’s got a few miles on. I’m quite convinced that they have a programmed lack of power for the first 1000 miles or so.

0W8 oil has been out since at least the 2nd half of 2020 when the MK4 Yaris came out. My bottle.

Just drive like this and don’t worry about it. Steering column knocking on most Toyota cars is very common fault and is not an safety issue or something that can deteriorate with time and mileage. It is becoming of drying lubricant on the telescopic splines for rake adjustment. My car was like that when I bought it many years ago at only 42k miles, didn’t bother to repair and now at 272k it’s still the same , knocking only in certain conditions and not an mot failure or safety any concerns. Save your money,

On my old MK1 Yaris,the button definitely flashes in time with the indicators. I notice this every time that I park on double yellows or a pedestrian crossing when I use the hazards for safety.

I'd be surprised if it could drop it by that much, but it certainly wouldn't help! Then again I suppose it'll be much thicker in cold temps than the proper oil. To my knowledge, 10w-anything has been out of spec for almost every Toyota engine since the late 1990's - Everything has been 5w-something or less since then!

It's because it's so runny it gets up the dipstick tube when you pull the dipstick, but although it's runny, it still clings to the metal surface and gets transferred back onto the upper parts of the dipstick. Incidentally, that's one way to see if oil is still good - Good oil will cling to a surface and stick to it, forming a thin lubricating film, but when it's broken down it will run off that surface much more easily and the film it leaves behind will be much weaker and will rub off more easily instead of leaving a film. He didn't say that, he said 5w30 is better than 10w30 - The essence is that while both are not ideal, 5w30 is 'less wrong' than 10w30. At the end of the day, the oil HAS to be matched with the engine tolerances - You would NOT want to use 0w20 on an old engine where the tolerances are huge as it'd not have enough film strength for the parts and they'd flop about too much. On the other hand, using 10w30 on these modern engines with their tiny tolerances will mean lots of metal-on-metal contact as the oil can't flow properly through the narrow gaps; ESPECIALLY on hybrids where the engine is constantly stopping and starting - That's where the most wear occurs in an engine, in that brief moment where the oil pressure has to be built up.

I’m thinking it’s a positive defeat device to protect the engine during the running in period.

I’ve had it with every new Toyota and Lexus. They get a few miles on and all of a sudden they go a lot better.

To add my ha'pence worth: I bought a 71 plate Yaris cross last June. Had no problems with the 12V battery, despite only driving 400-500 miles per month... until I had an operation in March and couldn't drive for 5 weeks. I went into Jemca Reading before my op and specifically asked, do I need to do anything to maintain the car for the next few weeks, eg. get someone to drive it once a week etc? I was advised, just turn it on at least once a week and let the engine run as long as it wants, to top up the hybrid battery. Nothing was said about the 12V battery being so naff that it would go flat within 2-3 weeks. Which it did. Toyota Assist (AA) jump-started it and advised me to leave the car in 'Ready' mode for at least 2 hours (!) and then similarly for 30-60 minutes every other day, given I still couldn't drive it. This indeed charged the battery enough to keep it functional: the AA man demonstrated how the hybrid battery was trickle-charging the 12V battery, and periodically the engine fired up for a few minutes to recharge the hybrid battery. Big downside, of course, is that either I sat in the car for 30-60 mins (or 2 hours on the day the AA came) or trusted that no-one would nick the car, as it needed the key in it to stay in 'Ready' mode and it refused to be locked with the spare key while a key was still inside but with no-one sitting in there too! 🙄 (too flippin' clever for its own good). The AA man said the battery was probably defunct, if it went flat in 3 weeks. I phoned Toyota to ask for a battery replacement, and was offered next day... but when I mentioned "under warranty", the man on the phone quickly changed his tune and said this would need booking in for a battery check first, which they couldn't do for 2 weeks! The 'next day' job would have been a non-warranty replacement at a cost of about £150 to me. Not impressed at Toyota's transparency (ie. utter lack thereof). I drove it (yay!! 😁) to Jemca Reading yesterday. They did the battery check - their machine told them to charge it overnight. This morning the conclusion was that it's absolutely fine and just needed charging properly. Guess what? I was told that I don't drive it enough blah blah blah - same weary excuse clearly being trotted out to everyone; but this wasn't my problem, it was due to the car being unused for 2+ weeks. The service lady did explain that, when the car is not in use, the 12V battery will be used to trickle charge the hybrid battery (I guess the hybrid battery is a more expensive failure?), so that would explain why the 12V battery died. And yes, she said they recommend a solar battery charger, especially if the car is left unused when you go on holiday etc. Other car maintenance websites point out that cars these days have so many systems running in the background - keyless entry, alarms, wi-fi, numerous other processes - that the 12V battery is being drained far more than used to be the case. As other owners have said, it's a shame that Toyota can't train its staff to inform prospective buyers about these things. There's certainly nothing in the manual about it, that I can find. And it's a shame that the advice I got in March was so severely inadequate. Seems to be the way of dealerships these days, hey ho.

I think they would gladly have accepted your business if you had been prepared to give them 9k. 🙂

When I had the MK3 hybrid, even the chain national tyres were using a better grade 5w30.

Point taken , but all I was saying is 10w30 isn’t correct for a modern hybrid car

While aluminium does corrode, I wouldn't bother unless it is very unsightly. My 35 year old mx5 has a pretty pitted aluminium bonnet but there is no major corrosion.

Too true. While vacuuming the inside of my car a few days ago, I happened to look into the top of the passenger footwell. Here, I saw a bunch of wires which had been jammed in. As it turned out, this was the dashcam wiring which had been bundled up and shoved behind the side panel. I have since pulled this all out and have neatened up the wiring and made it look more in line with the factory wiring. Would this be classed as a user installation now that I have neatened up the wiring?

Hmm, my keyfob battery hasn't been changed since I got the car and is still fine; I have 3 of them spare in the car now! If the remote central locking and keyless entry worked the power cell should be fine. One possibility is interference - There have been a few cases of thieves jamming remote locking signals in car parks so people just walk off without realizing they haven't locked their cars, but there are also other sources of interference which can inadvertently affect the wireless signals.

I have a few questions about this. 1.) If the Dealer fits a Nextbase 322GW Dashcam, and I swap this out for a Nextbase 622GW (using the same hardwire kit), is this now a user fitted dashcam? It won't be the same dashcam as fitted by the Dealer. 2.) if I am a professional fitter, and install my own dashcam, is this user fitted? Where do you draw the line?

It's weird that it's higher - Did they forget to put the 'sports suspension' on the 2024 GR Sport? I'm going to wait until they see sense and put heated seats in or something; I can't justify dropping another £10k that I don't have just for 15 more HP, and I only want that for the higher-speed MG2 running; My one is fast enough for my needs!! Actually CPN, how fast have you been able to hold the car on EV-only? On a flat with no wind it's around 59-60mph in my one, albeit not for long before it drops to 3 bars of charge and the engine fires up!

No. 2024 Yaris GR Sport (digital dash and other changes).

Yes. New oil is like clear honey - but much runnier. Give it a few weeks and it will start to darken slightly.

I've noticed similar on all 3 hybrids... At least with how theHV battery charges/discharges (same temp, speed location but battery charges/discharges at different rate. Also feels like response/performance varies. Particularly noticed going auris to auris. My guess is that it can influence your drive style, but if you need full power stamp on the accelerator. Pure guess work based on input from mk 1 butt.

Aye, fair enough but it’s very important to understand that thin oil isn’t a disadvantage as that chap seems to suggest, it’s absolutely necessary 👍

Wow Jenny! That lady is talking so much rubbish!!! The 12v battery is incapable of even giving the HV battery a sniff let alone a trickle charge! That lady needs to go back to Toyota's training sessions to learn a bit more about the cars she is servicing!! (in red) That is where the main drainage of the 12v battery occurs when left unused for extended periods and it does not just apply to hybrid cars these days either! There is a section in the manual that describes the process... (but I don't have it just now)

This is perfectly normal for new oil

So far, for me (subjectively), the answer to that question would be a yes.

I've learnt that apples to any tool that isn't a use once and bin it item. Buy cheap, buy twice, or thrice, or ... fource?

I would totally agree with that thought...

Oil is 0W-8, quantity 3.3 L, not sure on torque sorry

none, a few work at dealerships the forum has no affiliation with Toyota, you will find more knowledge of the older cars on the forums than any dealer, the mk1 does not run 0w20 until 09-10 (maybe later) anything above 60k you need to switch to 5w30, 0w20 in a earlier/higher mileage car will just burn oil and may even slip the bores remember this is a UK-based forum, oil spec vary depending on the county and environmental conditions

Very common. They have a very thin plating that doesn't last very long. The good news is that it is mostly cosmetic and they rarely deteriorate to the point they snap. Japanese manufacturers have used this exact design of clips for more than 40 years and they still look the same. So it is easy to get hold of new ones. If you want to make sure it remains easy to undo them, spray with lithium WD40 occasionally or put grease on the threads. I'd recommend spraying ground straps and bolts with lithium grease spray as this will keep the moisture off and prevent corrosion.

Rubber mats not available currently, side steps have become available again

Yes, exactly that. Well, that would be the logical deduction at least. Have you measured this over a longer trip? All the Toyota and Lexus cars that we have had, that had climate control would, crank up the heat - clearly a bit over the set temperature - for the first 30-40 minutes of a journey and then drop the temperature to at or just below the set temperature after that.

I’m nesh thanks to beta blockers. The temp in my Lexus is way off compared to the Yaris. I could settle for 22 in the Yaris but I’m 25-27 in the Lexus. I suppose it’s down to calibration and where you measure it but my feet say crank it up. I’ll rent them to you if you need to calibrate yours. They like tea.

That oil can’t be right surly and I’m fairly sure it’s a mineral oil as I don’t think you can get that type as fully synthetic, I’m not as clued up as I possibly should be but I know enough to run my own parts business I have around 20 different types on sale and only 1 10w30 and I keep that for plant and when I run out off lawn mower oil

It would be interesting if someone had an engine fail and required a new one because the dealer had used the wrong oil, I wonder if the dealer would try to wriggle out of a warranty claim? even though it was their fault..

Some manufacturers have made it easy to turn off the system with just one or two button presses you can do without looking. if Toyota could update the software to do that, it would be much better until the technology improves.

I know dealers are rubbish, but to use the wrong oil is unacceptable. The manual is VERY specific on which oil to use, and is even specific on alternatives if the preferred is not available. When booking service, I always hammer the oil grade and ensure they understand which grade to use. I even tell them if they need to delay the service to get it, do so. I'd service it myself if it wasn't for the "dealer stamp" in the book. 💩

The general rule is you must declare EVERYTHING. Yes, even bumper stickers! Best not to do anything to the car unless you're prepared to produce a fully itemized list of exactly what was done. In terms of quotes, for the GR Sport I was quoted anywhere between £350 and £2100. One insurer wanted £9000. I assume they didn't want my business. 🤣

I took the car in today for my "4pm" appointment at just turned 2.30 - was driving off the forecourt by 3.15pm after seeing the car sat sitting there - don't know how long it had been waiting for me! So I now have all four mud flaps that I paid for a year ago. . And yes, I got my coffee!

When I picked ours up the pressures were so over inflated it had Goodyear written on the side and had two blokes holding it down with ropes…

I'm guessing her opinion differed...

That is pretty dang cool

There were a couple of times on the flatter A1(M) sections when it had enough battery (~60% SoC) and it seemed to hang on in EV mode for an age at (a true) 70mph! (it didn't gulp the juice out of the battery as fast as I thought it would during this time either...) It hit a slow incline when it got to just under 50% and of course the ICE kicked in but the inst. mpg was showing 80-90mpg up that slow incline! (both MG2 & the ICE roughly sharing the load...)

Millers focus on high performance oils mostly for racing and track use. The EE Performance oils are approved and certified by the usual testing bodies so that you can use them while retaining car manufacturer warranties.

On the MK3 the cabin temperature is measured at the climate control panel where there is a small vent. (The is a little grille on each side, in the corners. The left one has the microphone and right has a pipe going to the return air section with the sensor just visible inside.) I imagine the MK4 is similar.

The user manual states 3.2 litre without filter and 3.5 litre with filter. There is no mention of sump plug torque. Normally it's about 25-35 Nm - not a lot. Not an opportunity to show off the gorilla muscles.

I think I might have asked that question before purchasing it.

No experience with auris. But some things to check: 1. U joints for play 2. Play between telescopic extender 3. Clunk sound on rocking steering due to rubber grommet perishing between power steering motor drive and column. 4. Dried up grease between joints/bearings. Really need to identify source of noise first by touch/feel/see. Does it happen when rocking steering with engine off, or engine running? Toyota will just replace everything rather than individual items in the column. More profitable and less chance of comebacks.

We are talking Yaris here not a Ferrari, what nonsense about high rev high speed in a Yaris, standard 0W -20 will be just fine