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The MK4 is the best small automatic car in the world, your one is mk 4.5 shall we call it. Am very satisfied with the normal 116 hp.

Apart from 2 forays into other marques I've pretty much bought Fords, and mostly the XR/ST/RS ones at that, my whole life. I only switched to Toyota due to Ford withdrawing the Fiesta as I really missed the smaller cars. And their obsession with electric only 🤔 So I was always going to be a reluctant soldier and my purchase was going to be full of scepticism and maybe (hopefully not) regret. But I have to say that I absolutely love the Premiere edition because: - I love the blue colour - The body shape is excellent - The economy is amazing - It drives beautifully - It's a technical tour de force. Love playing with the throttle to try and tease as much economy out of it as I can and the HUD is just fab - The adaptive cruise is more intelligent than Ford's - The ability of the speed limiter to match itself to the current speed limit with just one button press is just excellent. I use the speed limiter constantly so this is really good - Mrs Dastardly (Penelope?) loves it - The configuration options on the dashboard are excellent. - It just feels like it's been designed by boffins, rather than people in overalls But it's not all roses 🌹 Some, albeit minor, annoyances. - The engine is quite harsh/growly. Ford's 3 pot system is much smoother and not nearly as loud. - The door handles feel quite flimsy due to being quite thin but I'm sure I'll get used to that. - The positioning of the window controls are a little strange compared to what I am used to. Very high up. Probably just me though - Severe lack of internal storage. Door pockets are tiny, no opportunity to store anything in the centre console - Quite annoying that your personal options, e.g. turning off PCA, resets every time you re-start the engine, unless I'm just being thick - The "Hold" button resetting itself on every journey is bizarre. Should remember the setting or just be a configurable menu option. - Lack of factory options e.g. sunroof, heated seats. Would have paid for both The negatives are just minor/personal really as the positives are so good. Haven't been this happy with a new car acquisition for a long time 👍

OMG!!! I have just found the lumber support switch on the side of the driver's seat lower housing!!! It is awesome!! (now my wife is jealous because her seat doesn't have one! 😢)

Reduced the tyre pressures on my new Excel yesterday; it had been supplied with the tyres set at 39psi front and 36psi rear (no surprise based on others’ experience…). I reset the TPMS, all reporting ok. This morning when I picked up my phone I saw an alert (time stamped 4am) from the myToyota app informing me there had been a sudden loss of pressure. Checked tyres and all are ok; this must have been a delayed message from me deflating the tyres yesterday morning. Really useful, thanks Toyota 🙄

Theoretically if it has been serviced according to schedule (intermediate year 1, full year 2, etc) the next full service should be 2025 (10 years/100K miles). The first coolant change will be due at this service, with subsequent coolant changes every 5 years/50K miles. If you use a Toyota dealer for servicing, I'd be inclined to see what they suggest for this year.

It might well function as a basic code reader. I have a Bluetooth connected, app. based battery tester from that same brand which works perfectly well and has not fried anything. e.g.

Nope. New one.

Eh? Dealers will always haggle. I have never, ever paid list. I expect a good % off then start asking for extras: mats, ceramic coat, fuel, free services thrown in and always succeed. As long as you are polite, have done your research (get prices from Carwow/ auto trader/ what car etc and also use forums to see what others are getting as extras or % off) you should always pay well under. if you are fortunate enough to pay cash then getting the pcp deposit allowance and then paying the pcp off within 30 days is always a nice easy win! “Shy bairns get nowt” as they say from my neck of the woods😉

There have been a few reports here. I suggest you do what the message suggests and book the car into a dealer for an examination as soon as possible.

LOL...OH found that day 1 and was suitably impressed also!

Going shopping for a car with you sounds like a really joyous occasion.

First ensure that the ignition is on as the option is not visible if you are only in Accessory mode. In the main centre console press on the Settings icon then there is a menu link on the left called "vehicle settings" They keyless door/start option is under that. Bear in mind that if you turn it off then you also turn off keyless start you you need to hold your key next to the start button when putting into Ready mode. You'll get a confirmatory beep. This is a minor annoyance but you're getting extra security so I feel it's worth it

Next time I will take the car to the dealer- "Fix!" Yes, I could DIY but why should I? BTW, last car was sold by a very keen, helpful, young kid. Come the time to collect it, another VKHYK did the honours and was very keen to get 10/10 score. Even came out to sort out the connections. Current salesman has a new title, a stubble masquerading as a beard, and will be lucky to get 5/10. Bet he won't go the extra yard.

Thanks for the detailed review, waiting till June for mine (exact same) so appreciate any good info👍

So today after much deliberation my father in law had ordered a pearl white Excel, alongside my premiere edition ! The dealer are doing us a good deal as we now have x2 24 Yaris Crosses on order with them 🙂 They have said my Yaris Premiere has now moved from order placed to ‘in production’ and showroom delivery ETA is expected July .. wohoo 🥳 progress.

Agreed; Sometimes mine works really well, and other times I have to change the sensitivity switch constantly or give up and override it. Mildly annoying but not the end of the world; As anchs says It's a shame you can't just disable the auto-sensing completely and use the sensitivity switch to control the intermittent interval instead on the newer ones - That would have been my preference!

The discs do look tired and have quite a lip on them. You can't see the friction material of the pads properly without taking the wheels off - and ideally taking the pads out. So we cannot confirm the 'crumbling'. It is possible that the brakes have at some point been sticking and getting very hot. This can cause some pads to disintegrate. The question is, how many mm is left on the pads? If it's near 3 mm on any of them - they should be replaced. How thick are the discs? i.e. how close to the minimum thickness are they? That said, if the pads need replacing, then you do want new discs too. I would not put new pads on those old discs.

I would ask for proof of "crumbling" That is not normal, it could just be a very poor description of course

Thanks Ex Tiff I’ve already downloaded the manual, all 748 pages of it! I have just managed to find the section about resetting the average consumption and your suggestion was spot on so I’ll give that a go tomorrow I’m also a bit of an anorak which is just as well as I found out loads from reading the full manual Thanks again for your help

Hi Charles, unfortunately there can be a number of potential issues that can cause this.The clunking noise you're experiencing when turning sharply could be due to various factors.This can be worn out rear differential mounts, damaged suspension bushings, or issues with the CV joints. Others may include worn out sway bar links, loose or damaged suspension bolts, or problems with the exhaust system, such as loose heat shields. IMO unless you are able to investigate these yourself it is probably better to have a mechanic to accurately diagnose the issue,It is difficult to diagnose without the right equipment.

This could be triggered by many different things, from fault with the battery, inverter, water pump, engine problems, anything really and first thing is to run a diagnostic to see the codes. If you don’t want to go t garage you can buy Carista from Amazon and do diagnostic by yourself. Good luck

Probably the best (non SUV) Toyota so far, but unfortunately not coming to UK? https://youtu.be/uqbWadog8Y0?si=1sWP0L4H1cydytiL

Is it highlighted on the main page as most recent no matter what subforum the list is in? Like this one from me, since all cars have the plastic cover on top and in front of the radiator, then all covers must have clips and holes on metal brackets where the clips go through. Is this paint bubbling a known issue on any other Toyota car? Thanks.

it is caused by dissimilar metals, you will have to drill it out, remove the rest and then clean it out, for the cost/hassle factor alone, put a new caliper on it

dealers will not haggle over price, of the car but will negotiate on the px it's just the way they work these days, net cost of accessories is fairly low for them

I have similar concerns, that’s why my next mode of transport will be a horse and cart. 😀

Well finally, after several days of exchanges with Toyota technical support, I have the answer to this problem, and I am posting it here for the benefit of all future 2024 C-HR owners who wonder why they can’t play music on a USB-C stick in their new C-HR. The answer is not one you would ever expect, and is completely contrary to the advice given in the C-HR Owners Manuals. Apparently, the multimedia unit in the C-HR requires a USB-C stick that uses the “USB2.0 HS (480Mbps) communication format” and is “USB4 Gen 2 memory stick backwards compatible with USB 3.0/2.0”. Translated into English this apparently means that the only USB-C stick that is compatible with the new C-HR is an ultra-rare USB4 Gen 2 stick. On the advice of Toyota tech support, I immediately purchased a 64 Gb Samsung Type C Flash Drive (300 Mbps) (Model MUF 64DA/APC, pic attached) - £12 from Amazon – and it works perfectly despite the fact that it doesn't claim to be a USB4 stick! Interestingly, despite the fact that it is a 64Gb drive, I was surprised to see that it came ready formatted in FAT32 and not EX-FAT. I can’t say I even begin to understand any of this, but it works, and I now have my digital music collection back in my car. Full marks to Toyota tech support for all of this, but black marks to Toyota for not foreseeing the problems this change would cause, and for not providing correct advice in the user manuals.

Hi Hilary, Have you tried updating the maps through the system's settings menu? If not, that's the first step to ensure accurate speed limit information. If the issue persists, it might be worth consulting your user manual or contacting Toyota customer support they may be able to advise on a better solution if there is one.

Thanks so much for the help! I’ve taken off the dash, stereo, glove box etc, and found the selected lever pulls a white cord or tube in and out of a white plastic box that is buried deep behind a lot of other stuff closer to the steering column. Fearing it could be beyond my expertise to take all that off to get inside that box… might just have to pay the man… but Thankyou again for your help

Tbh, it makes no real world difference these days. I actually suggested to her that she just learn auto, before we realised she had the issues. I haven't owned a manual car for many years now. It would take something really special to get me back into a manual car now.

28 pin has 12v when reverse is engaged. Thanks Now I have to make the connections. Hope camera gets 12v and not 6v lol

Yes old model with old sat nav dashboard etc

Next Installment: De-pinned the 3 wite mirror motors connector. Pushed one of the indicator wires out to make it slimmer to squeeze through the bush. Took apart the plastic pivot bush using bolt, washer, nut arrangement. Compress fully, turn 45 degrees either way Inner carcass popped out. Then dremelled away. Once you start theres no going back 😀 Used a mini diamond cutting disc at high speed which melted rather than cut the plastic. Motor should sit fully flat in the recess. Soldered the extension wire to match length of existing cable. Now the difficult bit of reassembling the picit bush! Nout bolt arrangement was useless against that spring. So used a ratchet g clamp, and spoun bush 45 degrees with a screw driver. Phew what a job! Reassembled and routed wiring along existing with sleeving. Tested with a 12v supply, and it folds, unfolds . Whoopee! As the old saying goes, where theres a will theres a way! Hopefully, this helps anybody who needs to repair a broken mirror or swap bits with a salvage wing mirror, or new parts from aliexpress. Seriously, not an easy job. Toyota made it really difficult at every step. Must be a good cash cow for them. Now need to fit and wire in to car. Then repeat for other wing, oh joy!

Good to know about the app being unreliable, I won’t get my hopes up with it. Thanks for sharing

The 1KR has proven to be a very reliable engine - I don't think it has any common oil burning issues except where it's been abused (And by abused I don't even mean being ragged a lot, but just not being maintained properly). The fact that you can get off-the-shelf turbo and supercharger kits for it just show how robust it is.

it does seem very hit and miss if it works 80-100%, in some situations like rain and bright sunlight it does not cope that well

It’s all EEC Legislation again and the use of regulation 55/60W bulbs. Just get some legal upgrades - Nightbreakers or similar.

Oh they do, but we get nagged so many times that one more is just as easy to ignore. Anyway, our point is you are now out if the door and have to get back inside, just as you do.

Not suggesting that at all, just 'ignorance is bliss' or 'don't cross the bridge until ...' or don't worry unnecessarily.

Yes it is! I kept nudging the wife going "Look at that! Look look!!"

Had a 12v alarm a couple of days ago when it flagged up a voltage on my 17 month old YC of just under 12v. However this appeared to be a transient. Nevertheless I gave it a long charging session and after a settling period it stabilized as 12.75v on the 4th. On the 16th it was 12.56v with my car being driven normally every couple of days and 5 hrs on the 15th. This morning, the 18th, the voltage had dropped to 12.36v. Quite a drop in 2 days. The car had been driven for 42 min on the 16th and 3 hr on the 17th. The drop in voltage shows as a linear decline not withstanding the peaks on the 16th with2 cycles and 17th with 3 cycles. I shall certainly be watching it over the next week. In June we are away for 15 days so best I ensure my jumper pack is charged.

Situation is now resolved. Swapping the car for a 24 plate on Saturday, which we are happy with.

Seals will be second hand nowadays as they've stopped making them. There are a few people that break and sell mk1 parts. Paul Sims: https://www.mr2mk1toyotaspares.com/windscreen Tony Froude: http://www.tandnmr2mk1carparts.com/our-products/mk1-body-panels/ Or look up Neil Jones on Google, he's got 90+ mk1 cars that he sells off parts from. Best to email them or call them as none of them list everything on their websites.

I just did an oil change on my daughters 2014 mk 2, and used 0w20. The oil you have there should be absolutely fine as has been said. One of the easiest cars to do a full service on I've done in years.

I have never got the my car does 50,60 70 mpg as it's a very very small part of running a car. The main issue is always depreciation when you can lose £5000 or £10000 just driving it away from the garage what difference does it matter if your car does 40mpg or 60 mpg as the cost over the year on petrol is a fraction of that. On top of that servicing costs can make a big difference and then insurance costs...no point getting 60mpg if your car costs double to insure to a similar car in it's class. Also the amount of mileage and type of driving can make so much difference...my current car is 25mpg around town but 40 mpg on a long run. I only drive 8000 miles a year so mpg is never my first choice on buying a car...i buy what i will enjoy. I do think the 2.0 Corolla is a great car but whether it can do 50mpg or 60mpg would never enter my head when buying. I get some people are obsessed with mpg like 0-60 times but other factors would save you more money.

Looking at the picture, I think you have the 1.8? I have used the Auris space saver but it was slightly too tall to use the original floor. I asked on this forum whether the corolla space saver was slightly lower but no-one seemed to know. So I took the plunge .. the prices quoted are from 2 years ago. HB 1.8 boot conversion to hold a spare wheel.docx

I remember the AA would do a pre sale survey. It was certainly advised for a private/dodgy sale.

As an update to this, I sent an email to SE Cambridge and they offered to pay for the repairs to be done at my local dealership. I went to pick up the car after the repairs were done, and found out that there was a breakdown of communication between the dealerships and the repairs hadn't been paid for. As I needed the car I paid for it. After another email, SE Cambridge reimbursed me for the repair cost.

My Mk3 is lacking storage space in the dash & usually I end up using the cup holders.

Yeah, it's one thing I really miss in my Mk4!! The Mk1 and Mk2 had sooooo many places to put stuff without worrying about them flying off into a footwell or something. And the sliding rear seats! Both sorely missed...