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My Yaris MK4 hybrid system failed a couple of weeks ago, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and I managed to limp it back to the local dealer. Having read the forum regarding this issue I thought I was in for the long haul but after just over a week the car was ready to pick up, having had a new damper installed and I have to say it feels better (tighter) and more responsive. Thankyou Toyota and thankyou RRG Huddersfield for your prompt assistance, my faith in Toyota which had been slightly dented, has been fully restored.

Hi I picked up me new car yesterday. Love it but I have a problem with the insurance. Twice spoke to Esure (😡) about changing the insurance from old car to new car expressly saying it was the 2024 model. Told her the car as the reg wasn’t recognised and she game up with a load of different ones for the design trim eg 134 HP HSD114 HP HSD vit 99 hp TSS 134 hp I kept saying it wasn’t any of them it was 116hp. In the end she said contact dealer and hung up! Phoned back the next day as getting desperate for insurance. The person said she had the right one but a bit difficult to understand. When I got the paperwork it has Yaris Hybrid Design HSD 114 bhp 1490. Dealer says it’s 116bhp which is what I had been saying. Tried a few sites and they bring up 2020 onwards which I don’t think is right. I can now put in to change my car online at Esure with my registration number but it just brings up what is already on the insurance. I didn’t want to take the car out today in case it wasn’t insured so will have to get back in touch with Esure but I don’t think I will get very far. has anyone else had any problems with insuring the new model. sorry for the ramble and thanks for reading. Anyway on a happier note this is my new car.

should never have gone private! scamming the public !!

Thanks for all the suggestions. Yes, I will keep the NOCO ready but the biggest factor as far as I am concerned is that my wife has lost all faith in the car's reliability. That to me is the number one factor in choosing a brand and car. Whilst I am happy to rely on the NOCO, the Yaris Cross is my wife's car and I cannot expect her to use the NOCO. I am 80 and she will be very soon. A reliable car is an absolute must.

I wonder if some of the problem lies within the difference in HP to BHP ; 114 HP is equal to 115.58 BHP .

90% of problems are caused by people not formatting the SD card, format it and see how you get on. Weird things happen if you don't regularly format it. From the Nextbase Handbook

Give Fensport a ring or drop them an email https://www.fensport.co.uk/

That logic falls down very quickly when working with older cars. You could buy a car for a few hundred pounds and spend 10 grand on it - easily. You cannot look at it as a financial investment. It's an investment in yourself. Like a holiday. You'd easily spend £1300 on a holiday. It was the closest I could find, but you need to contact them to verify. Again, KYB, Koni and lowering springs like Eibach are perfectly fine alternatives. The difference is mainly that you cannot easily adjust ride height.

In other words, as long as the OEM battery fulfills the test procedure criteria, they won't pay for the replacement under warranty. If the OEM battery fails the test procedure (during the warranty period), they will install the replacement - probably identical to what you have. The cost will be covered by Toyota. If you'd like to have a battery of a different brand (eg. Yuasa or Varta of larger capacity) which has identical dimensions and all required features (like a vent) then you have to pay for it but installing it won't void the warranty as it meets the manufacturer requirements.

It may well do it if it's of decent calibre. The impact wrench makes it much easier when you're working on you own. Don't worry about the rust. You'll get the nut off one way or another. It's relatively straightforward as it's all chunky and strong mechanical bits (compared to working with rusty panel bolts, brake pipe unions etc. that shear off as soon as you look at them). If you are unlucky the drive shaft splines have seized in the hub, that is more challenging. Then you need a hand sledge hammer or a strong puller, or in worst case, a hydraulic press. But there's no point worrying about it, you deal with each thing as they come. Always allow for things to take longer than you think. Cars have a tendency to throw the most unexpected curveballs.

My MiL was rear ended. Only slight damage to rear bumper. The car was written off. A shunt can transfer shock loads much further forward than you might expect.

These will be a garage equipment job imo. I never had that badly corroded nuts and it was so difficult to undo my first bearings change and then 3 years later I couldn’t do it and let a mechanic I know to change them for me because of these. You will need a large breaker bar 70+cm with extension eventually, place a car jack under for additional support and you can use some heat gun to heat them up before try it plus a lots of wd 40 rust specialist spray.

Don’t buy it unless is 30-40% cheaper than non repaired similar spec car. The insurance issues if any is your smallest trouble. As mentioned ppl aren’t honest and often repaired cars had been way worse than what they described. Accident repaired cars only worth if you buy it yourself broken and fix it by yourself. The biggest problems with these are structural weaknesses and in event of accidents your life and the life of any passengers are at greater risks. Then the next big issue is premature corrosion, rust , paint bubbling, paint pealing and no warranty on any body parts , basically you are loosing 12 years corrosion warranty. And finally the safety and electronics, cars post 2016 are full of these, Yaris has so many safety systems that will be either off permanently or will not function correctly. And final thoughts, the prices of category cars are very similar to non category cars, just move on and keep looking and do your checks and tests because there are also plenty of accident repaired non recorded cars which are also a full stop. The regular forum members are well aware of people coming here and sharing a list of problems after they purchase cars like these. Good luck

I've just been notified by Bishops Stortford Toyota that the parts are in and the car will be ready next week which is fantastic...... I have to say the team at Steven Eagell Bishops Stortford have been amazing in getting the parts so quickly and giving me a lovely 23 Yaris on loan within 4 days of the car going in!

C, D, and N are classed as repairable. S is structural but can be repaired. I'd still avoid S unless I was convinced by repair evidence. Official details If buying a written off car you want someone who is upfront and honest about it and can show you photos of exactly what it was that was damaged and how it was repaired. Many times it is things that are expensive but completely fine to repair. Like a damaged door or body panel that can easily be replaced and brings the car completely back to normal again. Demand photos photos photos... and receipts.

Why not get a few insurance quotes and see if it's a price you're prepared to pay?

Yes, I’d never give anyone a lift whose carrying a chainsaw…

People lie. I'd really like to trust strangers, but experience says that's a really bad idea. Because a quick buck trumps being honest every day of the week. There are honest people out there, but the chances of any given advertiser being one is not worth the risk. Assume the worst - hope to be wrong.

I agree about the Yuasa battery (used them on many cars and simply no issues) I joined this forum to find out what issues i might have buying a new Corolla and apart from the battery issues,the Toyota app and now the RSA which won't switch off on 24 models i don't see many other issues. Just buy a battery...yes Toyota should have done better but spending 20/30k on a car what is another £100 for peace of mind.

Good point. They are staked into a groove of the driveshaft end. You can use a screwdriver to push it out. You are meant to replace the locking cap. Order one so you have a new to replace with.

Type your reg number into the motor insurance database, it will tell you if you are insured https://ownvehicle.askmid.com/

Thanks for the replies. Although I won't have a chance to do this before the car goes in tomorrow. The same camera has been in the Yaris for three years and I've never re-formated it, and it still works fine. I'll get a better idea when I get the car back and can try it. Thanks

Auto Hold will also illuminate the rear brake lights I suspect that we are now confusing two different functions: Automatic mode on the Parking brake - i.e. the mode where the Parking brake is applied automatically when the driver shifts into Park and released when the driver shifts from Park. The brake lights will not illuminate just because the Parking brake is on (but, of course, will if you also leave your foot on the brake pedal). The Brake Hold function which "keeps the brake applied when the shift lever is in a forward driving position or N with the system on and the brake pedal has been depressed to stop the vehicle. The system releases the brake when the accelerator pedal is depressed with the shift lever in the forward driving position to allow smooth start off". In this situation the brake lights are illuminated because the 'brake pedal remains depressed (even if only logically). It is entirely the driver's choice which of these modes he/she uses. Personally, I use automatic hold on the parking brake and never the brake hold function. If I am stationary for a short while I hold the car on the foot brake; if I am stationary for longer I shift into Park - that works for me and suits my driving style ...

+1 for Fensport - always helpful and can do the install and setup for you if you come to them.

Thank you, I thought it may well be. If anyone spots a nice 2014 - 2017 1.2 or 1.6 manual Excel, please feel free to send me the link, there doesn't seem to be that many about although, to be fair, I am not in a rush. Many thanks all again.

Money to burn huh...I negotiate the price of the car (tastefully) ,press the buttons on their coffee machine myself, pick up car myself ,would never ever tip a salesman., could tell you the price of every car, I've ever owned! This brightens up my life no end ! Jobs a good un !

Nah, ostrich mode works for me. Heart aint good enough to cope with that annoyance.

There's a conundrum in there. Are you buying it, or is he buying it? If he is buying it with limited funds then it might be a good chance for a decent car in his price bracket - if it can be proved good. If you are buying it or helping him with extra cash (which I did for my son not long ago), then it might be better to pay more to get a less 'complicated' car. (Something else to consider. Young drivers have high premiums because they are prone to hit things. (I wrote my first car off within a year or two.) It might not be serious but they may well collect bumps and scrapes, so getting something that is a bit worse for wear and thus cheaper may make sense.)

Thanks Tony, I am thinking of all those things, I have extra 1/2" breaker, a pipe, heat gun, wd specialist and some left over plusgas. I'll be soaking the trouble makers over several times, hopefully it won't be too much trouble. I also have a small 1/2" cordless impact wrench but I am not expecting that to break axle nut loose but for other bolts its ok.

Wow, they quoted May. I would be amazed if we got our cars then, happy if we do though! If there was a sweepstake I think I would bet for the back end of June

That is almost exactly the average that the memsahib gets in her X. That is verified by tank-to-tank calculations. The fuel figures from the car are, AFAICT, pretty accurate.

They seem to be opimistic on possibly all cars, deffinitly most cars pretty much. My 2014 Auris Hybris is about 1.5 to 2 mpg optimistic, my Gen 2 Prius was about 2 to 3, I had a Skoda Octavia Diesel, that was around 5 or 6 and a Honda Accord 2.0 petrol was only about 1 mpg optimistic

look on ebay or a local dealer. always do your checks

Or maybe they are not needed that much with the rear camera? Plus people often forgot to extend them when having passengers on the rear seats and they were more prone to the injury in case of the crash?

Got mine today (with Safety Pack option) 😆, so here's a few more pics... another dashboard scenario and one of the infotainment. Plus the Juniper Blue colour.... I really love this it looks so much better in real life! Car is brill 👌💖

Does anyone know how accurate the average MPG given in the trip computer are. I have had my MK2 64 plate for a month which started with only 30000 miles on the clock. I have driven about 2000 miles since (delivering) and have averaged 53.3mpg. My previous 1.0 Yaris with 160000 miles averaged a little better but I always felt the numbers were a little optimistic.

I just hope Toyota doesn't follow the slogan: Do you have the money for a new hybrid car? Then you can pay fines!

Adjustability with coilovers you have the added cost of setup, not great if the car is a daily driver

What Civic is he after? The last good one (The EP3, nemesis of the Corolla T-Sport people! ) aren't that expensive 2nd hand depending on how much they've been riced . If he's not looking for a Type R they are even cheaper... And the newer 'Monobrow' ones can be had for even less...!

You'll usually need to format the card the first time, as most dashcams use the FAT32 filesystem, but almost all higher-capacity micro/SDcards come formatted as exFAT by default, which is a Microsoft-encumbered format so many companies shun it to avoid getting sued by them. Good quality dashcam-rated cards will never need reformatting after that though - I'm currently using a Sandisk Max Endurance card and it's lasted through 3 Yarisusesieesesuses and 2 Viofo dashcams so far; Previously I was using normal Sandisk Ultras and they'd last maybe 1.5-2 years before burning out.

It could be because the wiring looms are manufactured in the same factory as camembert.

That's a bit off Topic.

Good to know, confirms what I suspected with ours, we also had wiring at touchscreen and behind bumper, but I went the adapter and cheapo camera route cos even 2nd hand cameras were over twice cost of way I did it. Good to see bracket for stock camera is there as well, I used a number plate light camera so didn't need to remove bumper either, but also I wasn't too keen on cutting the bumper. But as you say, always need to check because bit like the Mk1s, depending on model or year, wiring can be there or maybe not.

Likewise. We had an Excel on order November 2023 - 2 weeks later the updated version was announced, so we cancelled the original order and now have a Silver Premiere on order. The dealer has indicated production this month delivery in May. I won't be surprised if that is pushed back a bit.

My Carina did 250,000 before rust got it at about 15 years. The first 10 years or so was those sort of miles - lots of motorway. It was a 6,000 mile service interval but it never needed oil between services, though in it's latter years the level on the dipstick did get about halfway down the marked area. The engines and oils of 50 years ago may look the same to the eye, but they really aren't.

Poor man's Lamborghini Countach 😎

130 hp is only available on the new 2024 cross premiere, not before.

At that price you are restricted to "Chinesium" ones. https://www.pbbrakes.com/toyota-corolla-e12-coilover-suspension-kit.html I'd sooner go with BC but then you'll be over a grand, which is still cheap for decent coilovers. https://www.bc-racing.co.uk/applications/toyota-coilovers/toyota-corolla/toyota-corolla-zze130-01-07-matrix-03.html You get what you pay for. Cheap steel ones rust like there's no tomorrow and you quickly loose the ability to adjust ride height.

Out of curiosity, did it just happen out of the blue, or was there other stuff, e.g. potholes, high winds, hailstorm etc. that might have triggered it? Also, is the car still driveable? I panicked a bit when it happened to me, but being a person of questionable self-preservation instincts I immediately tried to break it again, but discovered the car would happily drive normally aside from the incessant beeping. Once I turned it off and on again and took it back on the motorway, I found I could still accelerate at full bore and I have since been unable to get it to do it again despite driving it in what tyrereviews calls 'a spirited fashion'

Can't comment on pre-facelift Corollas but my MY23 excel TS is quiet, more so than my previous Skoda. Reading up on the facelift Corolla Toyota made an effort to improve refinement. There is tons of insulation under the dashboard, carpets and in the boot plus it has acoustic glazing as standard. A few of the car magazines have commented that the facelift Corolla is a quieter car than many of it's rivals such as the mk8 VW golf, Ford Focus and Vauxhall Astra. Very little wind noise. There is some tire noise but I'm putting that down to the stock falken eco tires which are frankly, s**t. From past experience tires make a huge difference to refinement in cars.