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Hi All, Finally sold my 1995 RAV4 GX after 5 years of ownership. Was sad to see it go and wish I could've kept it but it just wasn't possible. Would just like to say a big THANK YOU to everyone who's helped with my questions over this time, it's a great friendly forum and a fantastic knowledge resource. All the best and drive safe. Stu

this is how I see it http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Print-ADT330111-CLUTCH-KIT/dp/B00B8VYNLC could do a lot worse than a blueprint part they are ok some difference in price I assume the price Toyota quoted was for fitting it this clutch is a non dmf so no flywheel to worry about worst case scenario price of 3 piece clutch kit as link above £78 local mechanic labour £150 at most skim of original flywheel if needed £80 gearbox driveshaft seals £30 gearbox oil £?

this video should help. I would take both bolts off and grease the bolt sliders

They all do that, sir.......... But seriously, I had a jolly good crawl under my 1 litre IQ just after I bought it for exactly the same reason!

Dont lose the metal slider inserts for the pads on the calliper housing. Im missing one and my brake pad rattles about like a skeleton having a w4nk on a tin roof

Thanks Devon. Called into the garage this morning. The senior mechanic said he'd only seen this go once before and that was in a taxi that had been in a crash. The faults that came up on the diagnostic were. P1271, p1604 and c1201. It says the p1271 is the main fault and needs edu drive replaced at 1,032! Haven't agreed to anything yet. Mech says there is a very slim chance of getting something second hand. Asked him is it a definite fix and he didn't give me a definite answer. Looks like I'll have to go ahead and get it done next week

you need to work out the beer/fine ratio and go from there, hope you have a good trip. regards colin

Have ign/radio on in "on" position (but doesn't have to be in "ready"), press and hold setup button (gear symbol) then turn lights fully on then off, three times in quick succession... (edited:190026/03/2015)

When you turn on the ignition the lights you mention will come on so long as they go out when the car is started then they are operating correctly: The oil light wont go out until there is oil pressure in the engine which cant happen until it cranks then starts The battery light wont go out until the alternator provides a charge to the battery which cant happen until the engine is started The engine management light wont go out until it can complete its startup checks which needs the engine running The STOP light needs the engine management to the above. If the lights stay on after starting the car then this indicates a fault that needs attention

Mmmmmmmm yummy, pizza, i know what i am having for dinner tonight now, lol. Mike.

What engine you got? Just wondering as the 1.0 can sound like the exhaust is blowing at times