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Not really. It depends if he did the job correctly. Many mechanics who had zero experience with a Toyota hybrid do all sorts of weird/stupid things such as leaving the car in Ready - assuming because the engine isn't running that the car must be switched off. Or they don't know what to do with Park or the foot operated parking brake and leave the car in Neutral. That is one of the worst things to do as if it is left like that for a few hours it will run the HV battery lower than it should and the car then won't have the power to spin the electric motors to start the engine. It's also possible the mechanic left all the doors open all day with the interior lights on, which in a traditional car with its bigger 12v isn't an issue. In a hybrid with a small 12v it is. This could have run the 12v too low to boot the computers to start the car. You could ask the mechanic what he did, but chances are they weren't sure or aware of what they were doing, so unable to confirm. They may also be frightened they've damaged your car and may deny they didn anything wrong. Oh, if they have left the car in Neutral and run the HV battery too low it could have damaged your HV battery if you were really unlucky, but more likely it will just need taking to a Toyota dealer who have the right equipment to charge it. Also, you hope the mechanic wasn't messing about with the orange jumper on the HV battery or tried to jump start the car not knowing what he was doing. Maybe disconnect the 12v (correctly and carefully), leave the car 30 minutes to reset and then reconnect again. This may clear some issues and allow the car to start. Maybe remove the 12v and check its charge and charge it up too if it was low? You will lose radio presets though. I assume you're aware of the regen system on the hybrid and how it's merged with the friction brakes? There is a special way when replacing pads. This youtube clip is for a Prius but gives an idea of what your mechanic should have done. Read the comment lines;

Here is what my son had made for me David

Hi from Durham. I'm Stan, a retired photographer (trying hard) and have just become the owner of a superb 2006 Avensis 2.2. The attraction was the available space for photographic and recording gear, superb condition of the car and an attractive <48k miles on the clock. The price was also a deciding factor :) I run a weekly web radio show with my partner Judi under the name of the Durham Ranger & She Bear Show and an estate had to be the ideal model to get us around the country for filming and interviews. If you see us on the road, give us a wave, we're only really dangerous to Geordies, if rumour is to be believed :) If you see us parked up anywhere come and say hello over a cup of coffee and we'll even dedicate a track to you or play a request.

Have just had 2 x Kumho 195/60/15 put on the rear of my car from Halfords for £115 inc blanced and new valves, seem ok so far :)

I have a 2002 model Yaris 3 door D4-D in S trim (bottom of the range so less to go wrong). I paid £3250 for it in 2012 with 60k miles. I'm now at 85k miles and have averaged 66.4 mpg over that distance. I have the car serviced annually to keep the service record going but do other work myself such as changing discs and pads and drop link bushes. This car is the spiritual successor to a 1988 Peugeot 205 XLD my girlfriend had. The Yaris weighs 10% more but has 25% more power and 55% more torque. It's fun to drive and I will keep it as long as it runs.

Just saying Hello to everyone as a new member and hope you are all having a good wknd!

Update: After 3 years that I'm trying to figure out what must be done in order to make sure I won't have any problems because of my RAV CVT's "whistle", I'm very close to a solution: CVT gearbox and ECU change (according to the TSB "CP-0046T-0611" I've posted) under warranty (Toyota in Greece provides 3 years factory warranty + 3 years extended warranty)History: I had to go to every local dealer during the last 3 years, trying to find solution to this "whistle". Nobody could. I've sent e-mails to local dealers and the importer, explaining (after a lot of research) what I thought the problem was (wear of the CVT's steelbelt, or wear that the steelbelt causes to the CVT cones). One year ago, a local dealer made some tests (according to central tech dept suggestions). As I realized, with these tests they were looking for valves malfunction, that could mean low oil pressure in the gearbox, causing bad steelbelt lubrication, causing steelbelt wear. According to these tests results there was no problem, so their "conclusion" was that "the "whistle" is normal and is caused by the oil flow inside the CVT gearbox"! Of course I couldn't accept that, so I wrote my objections to the document they gave me (in order to have a written proof). A year passed and -some days ago- I decided to visit the last (4th) local Toyota dealer in my city, in order to do the annual service and try to find a solution to the "whistle" problem.I told them all the story, they read the e-mail I had sent to the others before, they read the TSB I informed them, they heard the "whistle", they asked (and I gave them) all the documents that were prooving I'm reporting the "whistle" & I'm trying to find a solution since 2012, we talked for about 2 hours about it... and they finally decided that they should ask for the CVT gearbox & ECU replacement! Two days later (last Friday) they called to inform me that the replacement under warranty has been approoved! :D Now I'm waiting for them to call me when the spare parts arrive. I hope there will be no unexpected surprises, meaning they'll change the CVT & the ECU under warranty and the "whistle" will finally stop! I'll inform again when everything's over, so that if somebody else has a similar case with his CVT, will know what to do... since there will be (soon enough I hope) my "res judicata"! ;)

had my rear window bonding fail less than a year after autoglass fitted it. was wondering where the road noise was coming from, .until I noticed the rear screen coming away from the frame when closing hatch one day bit of a nuisance having it booked in to re do it but they fitted another new screen and paid for my tint to get redone and so cant grumble go straight to autoglass it wont be declared to insurance company as a windscreen cover claim if they fitted it, look at their guarantee for the life of the motor i think they get a lot of rework

Hi there yeah i can feel the better weather coming on too which means many, many hours on the car lol. I know when I worked at our local Ford dealership they'd sell a Superguard pack as an option on new cars for around £250.......this was 12-13 years ago. It was special polish, interior treatment for carpets and seats etc but also a spray onwax treatment for alloys which was meant to apply a permanent barrier so the dirt, brake dust, road tar etc didn't eat into the laquer applied to your alloys. It was one of the best treatments from the pack. I've seen them for sale on ebay in the past. Yeah i remember fitting harder compound fast road pads plus x-drilled n grooved discs to many cars in the past, they do require more use to heat them up to. working temperature, they are a lot less effective when cold