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Yeah no problem, I'm sure you could buy them locally aswell or order somewhere. One guy was driving with this setup (coilovers and 18" wheels) in Russia without any problems: So it's more of your own choice. Of course you won't be able to drive everywhere like on 4X4 car, I mean you will have to look around and stay alert, but it's not that bad. If you want to be safe go for 17" wheels and 30mm lowering. You will get almost same result without over the top big rims. It will be clean and balanced setup for good look and happy driving :) Good luck!

I don't know a lot about air con but if the pump is ignoring a command then I would suspect the relay/solenoid side of things. I suppose you've checked the belt?

Thanks, fellas. In the end it was a bit of good old inspiration that saved the day. After I couldn't find the fuse board under the glovebox I used my shaving mirror to take a look further under and there was the cover for the hidden fusebox! Pulled fuse 21 and it was blown so I replaced it with the 10amp spare from under the bonnet and Bob is your uncle! Konrad, I did forget to put the car out of reverse which is why the circuit was still live! I'll remember next time...

Replace your Prius with a new Prius, Auris HSD or even a 1.0 Aygo in 2017 on the new bandings and you'll pay £140 per year at tax renewal time instead of £0 as of today. Replace your 4 litre Range Rover Overfinch, Bentley GT or Mercedes S500 gas guzzler in 2017 with another one and instead of £500 per year, you'll pay £140 a year just like the plebs. We're all in this together ;)

I had the rattling compressor problem, I was going to get it repaired but the £700 price tag put me off. I put a smaller drive belt on it & was very pleased with the decrease in fuel consumption, as I thought when the compressor was off it didn't cause much in the way of drag, but about 6mpg was a surprise!

Leaks in A/C pipes occur because of several main reasons. 1. Inadequate bending during manufacturing 2. Vibrations during operation of the car 3. Corrosion #1 & #2 are self explanatory and there is little you can do against it. #3 is almost always due to a lack of maintenance. The refrigerant R134 is relatively non-toxic and more environment friendly than its predecesors, but it turns into an agressive acid when moisture enters the system. That's why there is a "dryer" in the A/C system, which needs to be checked/replaced at least every 3 years. Also, to transport moisture to the dryer, the A/C must be switched on regularly, even when that doesn't seem usefull. For the same reason, car manufacturers prescribe that brake fluid needs to be replaced at fixed intervals. You can live with an A/C not working because the pipes have been eaten away from the inside, but not for long when the same occurs with your brake pipes. The brake system doesn't even contain a dryer...

change the strut top mounts but at the same time change the sway bar bushings and the bearings on the front strut..your car will drive like new... just sorted all the suspension on our red car :-)

hi guys..we own 2 1998 camry v6 sports both have same problems..the bushings as have already been mentioned...and the strut top mounts...change these and your car will sound fine again :-) poor quality rubber my friends

Yes indeed. Google for sway bar bushings. front and back. I think this is the number one clunking noise issue on camry suspension, and maybe lots of other cars. With any kind of mileage, the bushings start to wear. The bushings cost around $11 ea at the dealer. Not hard to install yourself. Makes a big difference. What I understand is that the bushings need to be really snug, yet the sway bar has to be able to slip/move in the bushing's grip. Some people grease it with white lithium grease or wrap the bar with teflon tape. If you had racing type polyurethane bushings, some guys drill it and put a grease fitting in the bushing. If you're just !Removed! around, take the bushing off and wrap the bar with some duct tape. as long as the bushing doesn't look out of round, or disintegrating. Lots of people that take it in, get their struts replaced, and the noise remains. Had the car into the garage this moring. Worn D bushes in the sway bar. Wrapped it up with heavy duty tape as you suggested and the noise is gone (at the back anyway!) Thanks Rod!

Yes indeed. Google for sway bar bushings. front and back. I think this is the number one clunking noise issue on camry suspension, and maybe lots of other cars. With any kind of mileage, the bushings start to wear. The bushings cost around $11 ea at the dealer. Not hard to install yourself. Makes a big difference. What I understand is that the bushings need to be really snug, yet the sway bar has to be able to slip/move in the bushing's grip. Some people grease it with white lithium grease or wrap the bar with teflon tape. If you had racing type polyurethane bushings, some guys drill it and put a grease fitting in the bushing. If you're just !Removed! around, take the bushing off and wrap the bar with some duct tape. as long as the bushing doesn't look out of round, or disintegrating. Lots of people that take it in, get their struts replaced, and the noise remains.