Gt4 Engine Removal

[Fawbs]

Is there any chance you will be available this week as my other mate has his van aswell.

[Fawbs]

prop will need removing and the worm drive from the transfer ( i can show you which bit when you come up)

you will need to undo the strut from the fig 8 and then remove the 2 bolts and a nut from each lower arm to hub, you can then pull the drive shafts from thhe gearbox.

front and rear mounts and cross member need removing (bit of a pig to do the back one as you have totilt the engine forward to get it out.

dont for get the banjo bolt on the power steering pump as well.

always taken them out the top TBH, its harder without the head on as there are no lifting points but its still possible

Ok prop is all loosened off and ready to come off, i would have dropped it off but it was getting late and the engine and gearbox oil went everywhere, my bag wouldn't stay still. Front pipe is off, the cross memeber do you mean the big metal well under plate if u like? The fig 8's and lower arm have i got it right in this picture? The power steering pump i took out the other day so thats all good, In relation to the prop is the worm drive in the gearbox directly infront of it as i noticed there is like another part that u can take off after disconnecting the prop i will try get a picture tomorrow.

Sprayed most nuts and bolts with wd40 aswell.

[dawesy]

friday should be ok.

the crossmember is the one that goes from the lower radiator support beam to the subframe (has the front gearbox mount on it)

yep thats the ones, youll need to remove the lower arm nut (middle one in picture) then give the bottom a good smack with a 4lb hammer.

the lower arm bolts to the hub are under the nut you've highlighted to the right. you can see the front nut just to the right of your arrow.

that sounds like the worm drive. you need to remove it from the transfer box (6, 14mm head bolts) i can show you on a box here when you pick up the crane if you are stuck.

[Fawbs]

Cheers dawesy thats a big help i can finish prepping it all now, those nuts look very inviting indeed think i may take a drill and wire brush to it first, should do anti corrosion work while its out and get most of it painted. Is there any bolts off the suspension or driveshafts that will need replacing cause tom mentioned 2 of his nearly came out on his van cause they were stretch bolts but he didnt know. Actually to be honest unless you are home at lunch time on friday think its best to come saturday as me and tom can start early get the hoist and pull the engine, so we shud have loads of time in case everything doesnt go to plan. I'll leave my number 07929473924 in case we get lost and if u can text me the address or let me know on here that wud be great.

Thought of one or two other things, since we are going to las vegas again on detachment in jan or feb i was thinking of getting a turbo from america since they are about on average 100-250 quid cheaper even more in some cases and the turbo and ecu are the last things i will be getting. How much of a difference does an external wastegate compare to an internal, had a quick read up and it says external is best for regulating boost better.

[dawesy]

saturday is fine ill txt u my address tomorrow.

shouldnt need any new bolts, let me know if there are any that are damaged though as i have a box of spare bolts and im sure ill find one to sort you out.

that will be a good idea, just take a big empty suitcase lol :D

[Fawbs]

Nice one mate i'll be there morning/lunch time if thats cool. The prop shaft is off i had to disconnect the 2 mounting bearings around the mid section of the car to get the spline drive to disengage, lets just say i was soaked in gearbox oil after that but it was expected. Managed to loosen 4 of the worm drive bolts but the very top and very bottom ones are a no go, I could probably get them with a quarter drive, wobbly and extension but wudnt be able to get enough torque on it. Continued to spray the suspension with wd40, will i need to take those rubber covers(boots?) off the driveshafts where it connects to the gearbox or will they just slide out once the necessary bolts are off?

[Fawbs]

Nice one mate i'll be there morning/lunch time if thats cool. The prop shaft is off i had to disconnect the 2 mounting bearings around the mid section of the car to get the spline drive to disengage, lets just say i was soaked in gearbox oil after that but it was expected. Managed to loosen 4 of the worm drive bolts but the very top and very bottom ones are a no go, I could probably get them with a quarter drive, wobbly and extension but wudnt be able to get enough torque on it. Continued to spray the suspension with wd40, will i need to take those rubber covers(boots?) off the driveshafts where it connects to the gearbox or will they just slide out once the necessary bolts are off?

Met some blokes in the hangar next door one who has a skyline r33 and is doing up another rb25 engine at this time and a guy who used to be an engine builder who still has contacts with his old company. He is going to give my block a chemical bath so once that is done i can check it all for cracks and start building everything up.

[Fawbs]

Dawesy your car has made a lasting impression on me ha, the first time u put your foot down blew me away.

[Fawbs]

Right well i had a crack at taking the engine out today and i must admit it went very well until it came to taking off the left hand mount. The bolt that faces downwards is jammed in there real tight i even tried the impact gun to no effect. So im going to drill it tomorrow hopefully i can get it out before i start work tomorrow, still got the top and bottom bolts to come out the worm drive, the bottom one is super stiff its coming but i dont know something doesnt feel good feels like it has the weight of the engine on it even thought it doesnt. All in all it went well until i came to the last 3 bolts ha, driftshafts and lower arm bolts and nuts came out ok just needed to break out the guns haha.

[dawesy]

lol. yeah sometimes although the weight isnt on the mounts they can be a little loaded from the engine twisting a tad. or it could be a previously crossthreaded bolt.

hope you get the bolt out OK, let us know if you need a replacement (size and length)

keep us informed

[Fawbs]

Yeh i will this shud be done tomorrow crossed fingers, the load leveller ive got attach to one of the turbo lower bracket bolts and the mount that attaches to the transfer case and engine, pretty sweet fit. Just need to drill that bolt on the mount which im just going to ezy out, then just the 2 on the worm drive to loosen out, looks like i will need to push the steering rack up for the top one like u said.

[Fawbs]

I did it mate, basically i drilled the engine mount bolt and andy got the head off it with some mole grips. Did what u said and pushed the steering rack up, massive clearance now and the top bolt came out the worm drive next the bottom one was as stiff as ever and the head ended up snapping :S. So yeh at the point we were like ***** and we just couldn't be ubikd to drill it with the engine in. So we had a look at everything and we were pretty confident we cud get it out with the worm drive in just had to tak the dipstick, thermostat housing and alternator mounting/adjustment bracket off. Came out really well with it tilted to the right and upwards, probably going to clean the engine bay and do some husbandary work and get a lot of corrosion and rust off most stuff before i make my assault on the engine.

You know thrust washers do you only get 4 halves? 2 tops and 2 bottoms?

Also do you on the head if you have a slight scrape on it where the wire brush has touched it, will it be ok? Its not like a deep scratch or anything like that its literally just surface.

Sorry to anyone wanting to do this i was quite busy and just wanted to get the thing out so didnt take any pictures.

[dawesy]

glad its out. make sure you get the worm drive out before the engine goes in as itll make it a lot easier.

yeah just 4 halves for thrust washers, they go either side of the center main bearing.

as long as you cant really catch your nail in it and its not across a waterway cylinder etc it will be fine.

have fun ;)

[Fawbs]

Ok Lee this is the suspect here, im going to get some dye penetrant on it once i get the uv lamp from work. I know it doesnt look like much compared to the picture you show me of your cylinder wall crack but something isnt right, when u run ur finger over it u can feel it is a little raised up.

[dawesy]

does look suspect best to get it checked. not the usual place TBH.

did it overheat on boost? if so then it could well be a crack.

hope not. keep us informed dude

[Fawbs]

Will do mate, today has just been a day of rounded off and tight bolts but everything is still moving forward how much is a new block from toyota literally just the block on its own with nothing else.

Ive given colin a quick buzz aswell, martins mate to see if he has a spare block lying around. It did over heat twice, once was racing a subaru the second i was trundling along down some country roads. Both times i put down to an air lock as i had just topped up my rad, i always went steady once i had cured it so i couldn't really eliminate whether it was the rad or not.

[dawesy]

think a bare block is about £600 from toyota, not 100%. i know a short engine is about £1200.

you would be better off with a second hand one though as its seasoned.

[Fawbs]

May have sourced a complete engine so i will have parts to sell. Martin and colin havent got back to met yet, just waiting to see what they have, someone got a wrc engine complete with loom, ecu, charge cooler system and gearbox off of eBay for 612 quid, bargain! Gutted!

Edit- Martin can get me one for 250 beans plus postage, great stuff

[dawesy]

sweet as.

at least youll have a backup if yours doies turn out to be a crack.

might be worth giving it a rub with some fine grade emery. just though that it could be a rust mark from where the piston was sat before you took the engine out/

[Fawbs]

Hey Lee how exactly did u get your transfer box off and your gearbox? Did you just use the prize bar like u said or did u use some hammers and drifts aswell? Just want to double check don't want to crack my gearbox or anything, just need to get the gearbox and transfer loose so i can get a bar in there.

[dawesy]

normaly just let the whole lot hang on the crane and then lift the end of the gearbox up and down. failing that a screw driver carefully wedged should open it enough the get a good prybar in.

[Fawbs]

Got it off Lee, it took two of us, piece of wood, and a massive sledge hammer. Certainly took some effort damaged one of the sensors next to the plate for bolting down the gear linkages but looks like an easy fix. Well happy now its definitely on the way, managed to arrange a chemical bath for the block for free with that ex rebuild guy so its all looking good.

[dawesy]

exellent, sensor sounds like the reverse light switch not too bad.

any more news on the crack/mark in the cylinder?

BTW found a pic of the THS rods i got.

and the stock ones

[Fawbs]

Is there some special way of getting the crank pulley off? i really dont want to hit it with a drift.

Those rods look really strong, look more beefy than the eagle rods, depends if i can afford them on my budget, will see if can get some money off them.

[dawesy]

2/3 leg puller and care, dont hit it cos itll break bits off affecting balance. grip in the thick edge at the front and plage a bolt (one that will fit inside the crank pulley bolt hole but not too large to foul it coming off)

propper toyota one bolts to the pulley using the 2 M8 bolt holes in it.