Speaker Installation Set Up

[oldcodger]

when the amplifier running a speaker is under powered for the job at higher volumes it starts to clip the output signal it is sending to the speaker. the clipped signal basically causes the voice coil of the speaker to heat up and thus pops the speaker.

Hey CorollaD4D,

Thanks for the informative explanation, now understand what you mean and how it can cause the damage.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Thank you oldcodger for all your input...and CorollaD4D for going all out for me...really appreciate it ...And i've decided...im going for the JVC KS-AX5500 Amplifier

JVC KS-AX5500 Amplifier

Coz at that price with 100 rms you/i cant go wrong i dont think...only darn problem is the seller is away for a few weeks...im thinking at that price 2 of them would look pretty sexy in the boot bridged together sort of...hmmmm!

I dont really care anymore...its all so complicating...so long as it does the job hey!

[oldcodger]

Thank you oldcodger for all your input...and CorollaD4D for going all out for me...really appreciate it ...And i've decided...im going for the JVC KS-AX5500 Amplifier

JVC KS-AX5500 Amplifier

Coz at that price with 100 rms you/i cant go wrong i dont think...only darn problem is the seller is away for a few weeks...im thinking at that price 2 of them would look pretty sexy in the boot bridged together sort of...hmmmm!

I dont really care anymore...its all so complicating...so long as it does the job hey!

Hey Sam,

As CorollaD4D said the online info on your head unit does not make it clear what the PRE outputs are for, full frequency audio that the best for feeding into an external amp or is it just a low frequency output designed for a sub.

That amp you show does also accept speaker wire inputs so it does overcome the problem if you do not have a proper full PRE out, though as CorollaD4D mentions you will experience some loss of quality on the sound, but how much I cannot say from practical experience.

How are you looking to use that amp, just to drive the rear 6x9s or use 2 of them to drive all 6 Speakers ??

Whatever you are looking at think taking CorollaD4Ds advice will be the right way to go.

Do you have any clear diagram of the h/u rear connectors and any detailed specifications of the amp ?

I have found these specs but its rather difficult to decipher if the Pre out and the Sub woofer are one and the same or actually two different outputs ?

Amplifier KD-AVX40

Maximum Power Output 50W x 4

Continuous Power Output (RMS) 20W RMS x 4CH at 4 ohms and no more than 1.0% THD + N

MOS-FET Amplifier Yes

Audio DAC 192kHz/24bit

Source-Specific Volume Control Yes

Volume Attenuator Yes

Balance/Fader Control Yes

Equalizer

7-Band iEQ Yes

Max. Amp Gain Switcher Yes

Amp Defeat Switch Yes

AV Input Terminals (Video + L/R) Yes (Gold-Plated)

Line Output Terminals (pair) 1 Pair (Gold-Plated)

Subwoofer Output with Level/Frequency Control Yes (Gold-Plated)

Composite Video Output Yes (Gold-Plated)

Optical Digital Output Yes

Frequency Response 40 - 20,000Hz

Load Impedance 4 ohms (4 - 8 ohms allowable)

Pre-output Level/Impedance 2.5V/20kohms

Pre-output level/impedance 2.5V

Video Output Level/Impedance 1.0Vp-p/75 ohms

Audio Output Level/Impedance 2.5V

Video Input Level/Impedance 1.0Vp-p/75 ohms

Audio Input Level/Impedance 1.5V/20kohms

[CorollaD4D]

from the specs above it seems the pre-out is subwoofer only, i think Sam will end up having to use line output...

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Guys i gave up 48 hours ago lol...from the 2 headunits that i have; jvc kd r901 and the avx40...i think we've established both have a pre-out for subwoofers only...great!...and so i will have to take the other route...ie from what ever amp i buy...i run the red wire to car Battery...black to bare metal some place...blue to the headunit...and then connect whatever Speakers straight to my amp! Is this part correct? Saves messing with pre out/pre ins and all that confusion malarky etc lol!

Actually while im waiting for the eBay seller to come back from her hols...im going to purchase some mdf and try making some speaker boxes for my 6 by 9s that i can place on my rear parcel shelf rather than cut it up...might work!

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

I havent had a response from my usual crew??? Just an update i've decided to go for the jvc amp with 100rms...just need to clarify once more re wiring it up...

RED/POWER LEAD FROM CAR Battery (FUSED) STRAIGHT TO AMP

BLACK/NEGATIVE EARTH CABLE TO BARE METAL ANY WHERE

BLUE REMOTE LEAD TO STEREO

6 X 9 CONEECTED STRAIGHT TO AMP WITH SPEAKER WIRES

Guys...il be swapping all my door Speakers over tomorrow...i remember the rear ones are a perfect fit without affecting the windows going down fully...BUT the front Speakers do affect the front windows going down fully...as far as i know you dont get after market spacers for 16cm Speakers...how did you guys get around this???

[oldcodger]

Hi Sam,

Didn't realise you were waiting for a reply, the connections seem fine but make sure the earth point is actually connected to the main chassis and not something metal that might be electrically isolated from the chassis.

Bit confused when you say you are going to swap over the Speakers, from you opening post I assumed you had them fitted already ..??

When I fitted my Poineer fronts I used these fitting rings - they come as packs of 2, guess who assumed they came in packs of 1 and ordered 2 packs !!

My link

If not already done, get some Dynamat or similar sound deadening pads to mount the ring on and cover the surrounding door areas - very well worthwhile as mentioned by others before - just knock on a outer door panel without any and then compare to one with a couple of pads - a real difference to the bass and general quietness of the car.

You can use them inside your 6x9 boxes / baffle board to improve things as well

I used Dynamats for the front Speakers but got the Silent Coat pads when soundproofing the car - little difference apart from price,

My link

[pimp1chez]

If you pull up the boot floor there should be 2 handles (used to attach rope to tie down big items)unbolt them ,sand to to bare metal n earth there .I did it for my 2 amps

[CorollaD4D]

I havent had a response from my usual crew??? Just an update i've decided to go for the jvc amp with 100rms...just need to clarify once more re wiring it up...

RED/POWER LEAD FROM CAR BATTERY (FUSED) STRAIGHT TO AMP

BLACK/NEGATIVE EARTH CABLE TO BARE METAL ANY WHERE

BLUE REMOTE LEAD TO STEREO

6 X 9 CONEECTED STRAIGHT TO AMP WITH SPEAKER WIRES

Guys...il be swapping all my door speakers over tomorrow...i remember the rear ones are a perfect fit without affecting the windows going down fully...BUT the front speakers do affect the front windows going down fully...as far as i know you dont get after market spacers for 16cm speakers...how did you guys get around this???

you are missing some sort of connection to input the audio signal into your amp! also your ground will be very patchy the way you are saying. find a decent grounding point, something connected to main chassis. sand away all the paint until you have bare metal. drill a hole and then use a nut and bolt to connect your ground. bad grounds will give you hellish trouble later, just do it right one time.

what's 16cm in inches? you can get spacers for 6.5" Speakers if that's what 16cm is the same as. they are plastic and cheap, there's loads on eBay..

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam,

Didn't realise you were waiting for a reply, the connections seem fine but make sure the earth point is actually connected to the main chassis and not something metal that might be electrically isolated from the chassis.

Bit confused when you say you are going to swap over the speakers, from you opening post I assumed you had them fitted already ..??

When I fitted my Poineer fronts I used these fitting rings - they come as packs of 2, guess who assumed they came in packs of 1 and ordered 2 packs !!

My link

If not already done, get some Dynamat or similar sound deadening pads to mount the ring on and cover the surrounding door areas - very well worthwhile as mentioned by others before - just knock on a outer door panel without any and then compare to one with a couple of pads - a real difference to the bass and general quietness of the car.

You can use them inside your 6x9 boxes / baffle board to improve things as well

I used Dynamats for the front speakers but got the Silent Coat pads when soundproofing the car - little difference apart from price,

My link

HI OLDCODGER

Your the best...checked out that caraudio site...seen the spacers...im going for it today...way cheaper than eBay...do you think i should go for the rear ones aswell incase they fit? My link

Are you sure the front ones you purchased CT25TY02 defo fit perfect?

Please let me know asap...Thanks.

Also i've decided im using the Avx40 dvd unit...made the effort to check out the rear connection options and heres the list:

1 x PUPLE REVERSE GEAR SIGNAL

1 X LINE OUT (1 RED/1 WHITE)

1 X GREEN SUBWOOFER

1 X GREEN OE-REMOTE

1 X YELLOW VIDEO IN

1 X YELLOW VIDEO OUT

1 X PINK MICROPHONE IN

1 X LINE IN (1 LEAD BUT 2 PORTS/HOLES)

NOW can anyone...PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE...tell me how i'd connect up the JVC KS-AX5500 amp to the above connections? My link

Finally oldcodger...seen a cheap amp kit on your Car audio site

My link

What do you think...£7.99...not bad!

Man i really appreciate all your help. I stripped out all my door panels & Speakers today...want to order all the bits now...cant wait!

sammy :o

[oldcodger]

Hi Sam

Are you sure the front ones you purchased CT25TY02 defo fit perfect?

Please let me know asap...Thanks.

The rings have 4 equal mounting holes at approx 156mm diameter centers which matches the sizes specified on my Speakers.

( allow an odd mm out as cheap plastic rulers are surprisingly inaccuate )

Their depth below the mounting plate is given as 67mm, but I know there are still loads of free space behind then when fitted.

They are a perfect fit onto the door, I used some nuts,bolts and washers rather than try pop riviting as the holes on the rings are quiet large.

The speaker can be secured by thinish self tappers , but don't go too big or then will split the rings lugs - suppose you could use slim bolts and nuts instead.

..do you think i should go for the rear ones aswell incase they fit?

Never touched the rears as all the guys say they are incidental to the front Speakers sound, and have to agree they only add a small amount of background sound with the real soundstage coming front the fronts and tweeters.

If you have got the old ones out expect you can now tell if you need the rings or not.

Finally oldcodger...seen a cheap amp kit on your Car audio site

My link

What do you think...£7.99...not bad!

Looks good, I would be happy which CADs recommendations.

NOW can anyone...PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE...tell me how i'd connect up the JVC KS-AX5500 amp to the above connections?

Have not seen or used either, but this jvc pdf shows how to wire uo an external amp, you new amp should come with a suiable instruction sheet.

Seems your jvc head unit does have a suitable line out - I think ...

jvc.PDF

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam

Are you sure the front ones you purchased CT25TY02 defo fit perfect?

Please let me know asap...Thanks.

The rings have 4 equal mounting holes at approx 156mm diameter centers which matches the sizes specified on my Speakers.

( allow an odd mm out as cheap plastic rulers are surprisingly inaccuate )

Their depth below the mounting plate is given as 67mm, but I know there are still loads of free space behind then when fitted.

They are a perfect fit onto the door, I used some nuts,bolts and washers rather than try pop riviting as the holes on the rings are quiet large.

The speaker can be secured by thinish self tappers , but don't go too big or then will split the rings lugs - suppose you could use slim bolts and nuts instead.

..do you think i should go for the rear ones aswell incase they fit?

Never touched the rears as all the guys say they are incidental to the front Speakers sound, and have to agree they only add a small amount of background sound with the real soundstage coming front the fronts and tweeters.

If you have got the old ones out expect you can now tell if you need the rings or not.

Finally oldcodger...seen a cheap amp kit on your Car audio site

My link

What do you think...£7.99...not bad!

Looks good, I would be happy which CADs recommendations.

NOW can anyone...PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE...tell me how i'd connect up the JVC KS-AX5500 amp to the above connections?

Have not seen or used either, but this jvc pdf shows how to wire uo an external amp, you new amp should come with a suiable instruction sheet.

Seems your jvc head unit does have a suitable line out - I think ...

YOUR THE BEST MATEY...appreciate you looking up that pdf too...god bless... just glad its gonna work out...i'll place my order with car audio tomorrow as i was awaiting your advice...i'll try them rear spacers just for the hell of it as they're cheap anyway...hope delivery doesnt take too long...my cars sitting with no panels in...or Speakers lol! Darn just thought i cant use the electric windows for a while...hmmm...i'll let you know how it goes...takecare all ;)

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam

Are you sure the front ones you purchased CT25TY02 defo fit perfect?

Please let me know asap...Thanks.

The rings have 4 equal mounting holes at approx 156mm diameter centers which matches the sizes specified on my Speakers.

( allow an odd mm out as cheap plastic rulers are surprisingly inaccuate )

Their depth below the mounting plate is given as 67mm, but I know there are still loads of free space behind then when fitted.

They are a perfect fit onto the door, I used some nuts,bolts and washers rather than try pop riviting as the holes on the rings are quiet large.

The speaker can be secured by thinish self tappers , but don't go too big or then will split the rings lugs - suppose you could use slim bolts and nuts instead.

..do you think i should go for the rear ones aswell incase they fit?

Never touched the rears as all the guys say they are incidental to the front Speakers sound, and have to agree they only add a small amount of background sound with the real soundstage coming front the fronts and tweeters.

If you have got the old ones out expect you can now tell if you need the rings or not.

Finally oldcodger...seen a cheap amp kit on your Car audio site

My link

What do you think...£7.99...not bad!

Looks good, I would be happy which CADs recommendations.

NOW can anyone...PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE...tell me how i'd connect up the JVC KS-AX5500 amp to the above connections?

Have not seen or used either, but this jvc pdf shows how to wire uo an external amp, you new amp should come with a suiable instruction sheet.

Seems your jvc head unit does have a suitable line out - I think ...

Hello Oldcodger...Just to let you know my Speaker Spacer rings arrived today from Car-Audio...quality looks very good...BUT i see what you mean now by the size of them holes...How am i gonna make this work matey? Them holes are massive and the existing holes on the door are pretty neat...im gona have to find some 3/4inch bolts that screw into the door...Or screw from inside the door and bolt at the front...i thought the rings came with all the fittings...ie screws/and a speaker wire adaptors etc...my mates did for her Astra hatch! Anyway let me know your ideas please! I've got to get it done this weekend.

[oldcodger]

Hello Oldcodger...Just to let you know my Speaker Spacer rings arrived today from Car-Audio...quality looks very good...BUT i see what you mean now by the size of them holes...How am i gonna make this work matey? Them holes are massive and the existing holes on the door are pretty neat...im gona have to find some 3/4inch bolts that screw into the door...Or screw from inside the door and bolt at the front...i thought the rings came with all the fittings...ie screws/and a speaker wire adaptors etc...my mates did for her Astra hatch! Anyway let me know your ideas please! I've got to get it done this weekend.

Hi Sam,

I used some bolts with some extra wide washers to fill that large hole, think I fitted the bolt from the inside so the nut was on the outer side of the ring - I also used a bit of Locktite on the thread /nut to stop them vibrating loose as you cannot do them up mega tight or you will damage the plastic ring.

Similarly be careful with the screws that may come with your Speakers to attach the speaker to the ring - their diameter may be too big and split those small lugs on the rings.

Did you get some Dynamat or similar to cover around the speaker hole on the door and the area of the outer skin immediately behind the speaker ?

You can carefully use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the panel before you apply the pad and use a wallpaper seam roller to really make it go round the contours.

hth

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hello Oldcodger...Just to let you know my Speaker Spacer rings arrived today from Car-Audio...quality looks very good...BUT i see what you mean now by the size of them holes...How am i gonna make this work matey? Them holes are massive and the existing holes on the door are pretty neat...im gona have to find some 3/4inch bolts that screw into the door...Or screw from inside the door and bolt at the front...i thought the rings came with all the fittings...ie screws/and a speaker wire adaptors etc...my mates did for her Astra hatch! Anyway let me know your ideas please! I've got to get it done this weekend.

Hi Sam,

I used some bolts with some extra wide washers to fill that large hole, think I fitted the bolt from the inside so the nut was on the outer side of the ring - I also used a bit of Locktite on the thread /nut to stop them vibrating loose as you cannot do them up mega tight or you will damage the plastic ring.

Similarly be careful with the screws that may come with your Speakers to attach the speaker to the ring - their diameter may be too big and split those small lugs on the rings.

Did you get some Dynamat or similar to cover around the speaker hole on the door and the area of the outer skin immediately behind the speaker ?

You can carefully use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the panel before you apply the pad and use a wallpaper seam roller to really make it go round the contours.

hth

HI OLdcodger...

Just to let you know i installed my speaker spacers today...gosh they line up a treat...P.E.R.F.E.C.T...I used some bolt n nuts like you suggested...only i didnt tighten them up as im still waiting for my "PC2-824 Toyota Speaker Adaptor Lead" to arrive so i can connect up my Speakers without cutting into the original speaker wires...i couldnt resist them and they're fairly cheap. Anyway once they arrive i'll install my Speakers...test em...refit door panels...and im done!

Also to mention i didnt buy some Dynamat...cant afford to right now...but i am worried...about water ingress damaging my speakers...when i initially removed the inner door panels everything was totally dry inside...EXCEPT the front passenger door...i noticed drips of water down the inner plastic and a small puddle on the speaker itself...any ideas mate??? Im thinking of using normal plastic behind each speaker just to protect the speaker parts...please let me know what you think...have to get all this done before my MOT at the weekend!

Thanks

Sammy

[oldcodger]

HI OLdcodger...

Just to let you know i installed my speaker spacers today...gosh they line up a treat...P.E.R.F.E.C.T...I used some bolt n nuts like you suggested...only i didnt tighten them up as im still waiting for my "PC2-824 Toyota Speaker Adaptor Lead" to arrive so i can connect up my speakers without cutting into the original speaker wires...i couldnt resist them and they're fairly cheap. Anyway once they arrive i'll install my speakers...test em...refit door panels...and im done!

Also to mention i didnt buy some Dynamat...cant afford to right now...but i am worried...about water ingress damaging my speakers...when i initially removed the inner door panels everything was totally dry inside...EXCEPT the front passenger door...i noticed drips of water down the inner plastic and a small puddle on the speaker itself...any ideas mate??? Im thinking of using normal plastic behind each speaker just to protect the speaker parts...please let me know what you think...have to get all this done before my MOT at the weekend!

Thanks

Sammy

Hi Sam,

Shame you could not get some Dynamats or similar pads locally, am sure they do help give a better sound.

You should find plain bitumen pads in local car spares shops, about £8 for 500mm square which would be the minimum to do both Speakers.

They work nearly as well as the Dynamat stuff - also very good for sound prooofing noisy desktop PC cases.

Would defo use some type of plastic shield over the speaker, you can buy some acoustic rubber covers for about £10 a pair, I think, that say they will protect from drips, but because they totally enclose the speaker there is a very mixed opinions as to how it affects the bass response.

I would start a new thread for how to cure the leak, the horizontal seal on the outer side of the glass seems likely but expect the vertical guides could cause the problem

[oldcodger]

have to get all this done before my MOT at the weekend!

Thanks

Sammy

Hi Sam,

Do you use your local council mot center ? - avoids getting ripped off.. they do not do repairs, nor can they recommend any garage to use.

My link

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

have to get all this done before my MOT at the weekend!

Thanks

Sammy

Hi Sam,

Do you use your local council mot center ? - avoids getting ripped off.. they do not do repairs, nor can they recommend any garage to use.

My link

Thanks for the advice oldcodger...i have NEVA EVA been to my council mot centre eva...but i hear a lot of people talk about it...i worry about their re-test fee...wheras i have been to going to a local mot test centre for years...nice guy...only eva failed a couple of my cars but he has a 10 working day free re-test...so i dont know...

Funny as i write to you my other half is on the blower speaking to my council mot centre now...charge £40...free re-test in 7 days...and have an appointment at 10.15am this Saturday...so i've told him to book it...i'll chance it!

Im sure my Rollas okay...i could do with a pre tyre pressure check...otherwise everything else seems in good order...shocks/fluids/tyres/exhaust/shocks/lights...just concerned about the silvatec indicator bulbs at the front and sides...packaging states they're road legal!!! & oh my handbreak feels like it may need a bit of tweaking! I HATE MOT'S...I WOULD RATHER GO TO THE DENTIST LOL! :o

[CorollaD4D]

Sam, you have a toyota. MOT should be the least of your worries...

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

HI OLdcodger...

Just to let you know i installed my speaker spacers today...gosh they line up a treat...P.E.R.F.E.C.T...I used some bolt n nuts like you suggested...only i didnt tighten them up as im still waiting for my "PC2-824 Toyota Speaker Adaptor Lead" to arrive so i can connect up my speakers without cutting into the original speaker wires...i couldnt resist them and they're fairly cheap. Anyway once they arrive i'll install my speakers...test em...refit door panels...and im done!

Also to mention i didnt buy some Dynamat...cant afford to right now...but i am worried...about water ingress damaging my speakers...when i initially removed the inner door panels everything was totally dry inside...EXCEPT the front passenger door...i noticed drips of water down the inner plastic and a small puddle on the speaker itself...any ideas mate??? Im thinking of using normal plastic behind each speaker just to protect the speaker parts...please let me know what you think...have to get all this done before my MOT at the weekend!

Thanks

Sammy

Hi Sam,

Shame you could not get some Dynamats or similar pads locally, am sure they do help give a better sound.

You should find plain bitumen pads in local car spares shops, about £8 for 500mm square which would be the minimum to do both Speakers.

They work nearly as well as the Dynamat stuff - also very good for sound prooofing noisy desktop PC cases.

Would defo use some type of plastic shield over the speaker, you can buy some acoustic rubber covers for about £10 a pair, I think, that say they will protect from drips, but because they totally enclose the speaker there is a very mixed opinions as to how it affects the bass response.

I would start a new thread for how to cure the leak, the horizontal seal on the outer side of the glass seems likely but expect the vertical guides could cause the problem

Hi Oldcodger...(your forum identity name still kills me lol :) )

Just an update, i finished off installing my Speakers today (thought i'd get it done before the mot @ the weekend!)...the spacers worked a treat...easy to fit etc...however i dont know if its that my Speakers stick out a likkle too much but if you look underneath your door panel you'll see the panel does bulge a bit...minor because everything still aligns good...not perfect but good! only downside is i damaged a few of my door panels as i stored them/squashed them in my boot!

anyway the sound is amazingly better...will put some posts up @ the weekend! So thanks for all your help & advice on this subject.

p/s...while i've the panels off for the last week...its rained quite a bit here...and not a single drop of water found on the inside of that problem door...so i think we're okay!

[Harwood]

i think i may be a little late replying to this, but i've read it all through and have a few things to add, as i've just finished my degree in Bsc(hons) music Technology & Production i've been living this stuff for the last 3 years!

as D4D has mentioned, this is the most important number when it comes to talking about amps and Speakers.

The RMS is typically around 1/3 of the peak power output, bare in mind, the Peak power output is the point everything dies.

so looking at what you have said about your Speakers, the actual RMS rating of them would be around 65/70 watts, meaning that an amp with a peak power of 150 watts per channel would be more than adequate to run said speaker.

one thing to remember, is the quality of the amp is always reflected in the price. In my car i have a JL Audio J2 250w mono amp, which i run at around 65% gain, and this is a lot louder than a lot of my friends with their 'loudest.com' special 2000w amps, purely because of the quality of the components and the way the amp handles the signal. if you really want, you can get a sub zero 1200w 4 channel amp for £90, but it will never see that kind of power in its entire life.

This leads me to talk about the wiring kit you have linked to.

the wiring kit is the most important part of an audio system, it needs to supply the amplifier with current when it needs it most.

cheap kits like you have suggested are made of very thin cable, which limits the amount of current which can be drawn down them, either causing the amp to limit its output, or worse, the wires could burn out.

when i fitted my amp, i spent around £80 on my JL Audio wiring kit, which is 4awg so its is more than thick enough to handle the small amount of current my amp draws. this is good, because the more clean power the amp has to use, the better the output will be and the more efficient the amp will operate.

regarding the boxes you want to make, you must do some maths before you make them. this is because the internal volume of the box plays a massive part in not only the output of the speaker, but it can also alter the frequency response of the speaker, an incorrectly constructed box can lead to peaks in the frequency range, and not always where you would want them. when you do the maths, you must take into account the volume of the space the speaker would take up inside the box too, and compensate for it with the box dimensions.

they are class d (d for digital)

tut tut :P

[oldcodger]

Hi Sam,

and not a single drop of water found on the inside of that problem door...so i think we're okay!

Still worth putting a bit of plastic above the Speakers to deflect any drops - assume your door drain holes are good and clear.

its that my speakers stick out a little too much but if you look underneath your door panel you'll see the panel does bulge a bit

Not sure what part of your speaker is catching on the door panel, the centrally mounted tweeters ? - you need to ensure its not catching any part of the 'cone' or the sound quality will suffer

Re Harwoods post - all correct stuff, however like most things its always a balance between cost, quality and performance.

Though he does not mention you can also improve the sound by using better quality speaker cables, but again its cost and the practicality of laying the thick cables in the confines of the car.

Regarding the quality of the amps power leads, whatever you use, always include a correctly rated inline fuse at the Battery end of the cable.

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hi Sam,

and not a single drop of water found on the inside of that problem door...so i think we're okay!

Still worth putting a bit of plastic above the Speakers to deflect any drops - assume your door drain holes are good and clear.

its that my speakers stick out a little too much but if you look underneath your door panel you'll see the panel does bulge a bit

Not sure what part of your speaker is catching on the door panel, the centrally mounted tweeters ? - you need to ensure its not catching any part of the 'cone' or the sound quality will suffer

Re Harwoods post - all correct stuff, however like most things its always a balance between cost, quality and performance.

Though he does not mention you can also improve the sound by using better quality speaker cables, but again its cost and the practicality of laying the thick cables in the confines of the car.

Regarding the quality of the amps power leads, whatever you use, always include a correctly rated inline fuse at the Battery end of the cable.

Hey Oldcodger...

Just to let you n the guys know...had my rolla booked in for her MOT on saturday morning...was a nervous 40 min wait and it didnt help that they raised her up n down on the ramp say like 10 times...but she PASSED it...sailed it straight through...guy recons everythings absolutely fine...so fingers crossed another year of problem free motoring so as to speak!

Also i came across another cheapish amp on fleabay...which i missed out on...but what do you think of this one??? JVC amplifier

[oldcodger]

Hey Oldcodger...

Just to let you n the guys know...had my rolla booked in for her MOT on saturday morning...was a nervous 40 min wait and it didnt help that they raised her up n down on the ramp say like 10 times...but she PASSED it...sailed it straight through...guy recons everythings absolutely fine...so fingers crossed another year of problem free motoring so as to speak!

Also i came across another cheapish amp on fleabay...which i missed out on...but what do you think of this one??? JVC amplifier

Hi Sam,

Good news on the MOT, just about to start checking mine over as its mot is due the end of next month.

Have you not got your new amp yet or connected up ?

Assume you have got your new jvc 4 door Speakers connected, hope they sound a lot better than the stocks ?

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Hey Oldcodger...

Just to let you n the guys know...had my rolla booked in for her MOT on saturday morning...was a nervous 40 min wait and it didnt help that they raised her up n down on the ramp say like 10 times...but she PASSED it...sailed it straight through...guy recons everythings absolutely fine...so fingers crossed another year of problem free motoring so as to speak!

Also i came across another cheapish amp on fleabay...which i missed out on...but what do you think of this one??? JVC amplifier

Hi Sam,

Good news on the MOT, just about to start checking mine over as its mot is due the end of next month.

Have you not got your new amp yet or connected up ?

Assume you have got your new jvc 4 door Speakers connected, hope they sound a lot better than the stocks ?

Ya my MOT expires 20/08 but i have always had a habit of mot'ing it a month before just incase...you know...lol

Nope i havent bought an amp as yet...yes i've done my door Speakers and i recon they sound AMMMMMMMMMMMMazing eventhough everyone keeps telling me they're just cheap coaxials...but they do a good job compared to stock! :D

Now all i have to do is my oil n filter change...and place my pipercross filter in place and im done! I would like to take my wheels off and paint my callipers n hubs in gold...but im too lazy for that so maybe next year! Oh & how can i forget,,,i need to put my new dvd headunit in...thats a 15 min job for me! The only prob i'll have is it has a lead thats supposed to connect to the handbrake so that you can only watch dvds when parked up...but i need to find some where to just earth it to...preferably somewhere behind the stereo...thats what i normally do....hmmmmm