Flat Battery

[hind]

38 minutes ago, Cyker said:

But even if you put a completely 'wrong' battery in the car, unless it actually broke something in the car, they still couldn't invalidate the entire warranty!

 

He should show him the user manual which states the requirements for the 12v Battery and ask again 🙂

[G L J]

11 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Where do you put your keys at this point?  

As the Yaris has got keyless start  as  long I stay reasonably  close to the vehicle I am able to keep them in my pocket.

[anchorman]

3 hours ago, 152bobby said:

I can't believe that Toyota have told some people that fitting a different larger battery will invalidate their warranty whether it's within the first 3 year warranty from new or the Relax warranty up to 10 years/100k.

How can they possibly say this, it's classed as a wear and tear item.  I can understand them saying that for the first initial 3 years possibly, but your not telling me that for example on year 8 at say 90k miles, and your battery is knackered, they will change it for free !!!  I would have thought they would tell you to jog on.

Exactly, they can’t, it breaks the law.  They can only reject a warranty if the Battery causes a direct fault and a quality Battery won’t.

[Bob66]

15 hours ago, bifski said:

I did ask about the option to upgrade the battery but was told by the Toyota service manager that it would void my warranty. In addition, after numerous and lengthy discussions with Toyota UK, at no point have they suggested a battery upgrade to resolve this issue...

This is what Toyota online ...told me:

[anchorman]

8 minutes ago, Bob66 said:

This is what Toyota online ...told me:

Exactly, this is where some dealer representatives let the side down.

[PaulDE]

My wife has a Yaris Cross which is just less than 2 years old. After  100 mile journey we stopped at a supermarket and when we came out the car wouldn’t start.  Called out the AA and the engineer diagnosed a flat / faulty Battery.  He got the car running with a Battery jump starter.

 Then I did some extensive research on the issue (I’m a retired electrical engineer).

Surprise, surprise it’s a well known problem.

It appears that the auxiliary Battery (which is relatively small) is only used to power up the circuits controlling the cars systems and some accessories and those circuits need a minimum of +12 volts to trigger them.

If for any reason the battery voltage drops too low because of a current drain or fault the car will not be able to use the traction battery to start.

I replaced the auxiliary battery and all is now good, I put the old battery on a long charge and a battery tester showed it to be OK but when I checked the voltage it was only just above 12 volts when it should be at least 13 volts when fully charged.

 Have read numerous reports of owners taking their car to a dealership and being told that the battery is OK, but did they check the voltage?

To make matters worse I understand that Toyota know about this issue but haven’t resolved it, there are also some rumours that there was a faulty batch of batteries but I haven’t been able to confirm that.

 The only answer, in my opinion (providing you have a good battery) is to do some regular long runs and make sure you switch off any circuits or devices that could drain your battery.

[anchorman]

20 minutes ago, PaulDE said:

My wife has a Yaris Cross which is just less than 2 years old. After  100 mile journey we stopped at a supermarket and when we came out the car wouldn’t start.  Called out the AA and the engineer diagnosed a flat / faulty battery.  He got the car running with a battery jump starter.

 Then I did some extensive research on the issue (I’m a retired electrical engineer).

Surprise, surprise it’s a well known problem.

It appears that the auxiliary battery (which is relatively small) is only used to power up the circuits controlling the cars systems and some accessories and those circuits need a minimum of +12 volts to trigger them.

If for any reason the battery voltage drops too low because of a current drain or fault the car will not be able to use the traction battery to start.

I replaced the auxiliary battery and all is now good, I put the old battery on a long charge and a battery tester showed it to be OK but when I checked the voltage it was only just above 12 volts when it should be at least 13 volts when fully charged.

 Have read numerous reports of owners taking their car to a dealership and being told that the battery is OK, but did they check the voltage?

To make matters worse I understand that Toyota know about this issue but haven’t resolved it, there are also some rumours that there was a faulty batch of batteries but I haven’t been able to confirm that.

 The only answer, in my opinion (providing you have a good battery) is to do some regular long runs and make sure you switch off any circuits or devices that could drain your battery.

You don’t need long runs Paul, it just needs to be in ready mode. There’s hundreds of posts on it.  

[152bobby]

22 minutes ago, PaulDE said:

My wife has a Yaris Cross which is just less than 2 years old. After  100 mile journey we stopped at a supermarket and when we came out the car wouldn’t start.  Called out the AA and the engineer diagnosed a flat / faulty battery.  He got the car running with a battery jump starter.

 Then I did some extensive research on the issue (I’m a retired electrical engineer).

Surprise, surprise it’s a well known problem.

It appears that the auxiliary battery (which is relatively small) is only used to power up the circuits controlling the cars systems and some accessories and those circuits need a minimum of +12 volts to trigger them.

If for any reason the battery voltage drops too low because of a current drain or fault the car will not be able to use the traction battery to start.

I replaced the auxiliary battery and all is now good, I put the old battery on a long charge and a battery tester showed it to be OK but when I checked the voltage it was only just above 12 volts when it should be at least 13 volts when fully charged.

 Have read numerous reports of owners taking their car to a dealership and being told that the battery is OK, but did they check the voltage?

To make matters worse I understand that Toyota know about this issue but haven’t resolved it, there are also some rumours that there was a faulty batch of batteries but I haven’t been able to confirm that.

 The only answer, in my opinion (providing you have a good battery) is to do some regular long runs and make sure you switch off any circuits or devices that could drain your battery.

I've just had a dash cam fitted being powered via the OBD port, as Nextbase have this cable as an alternative to the "other" hardwired way.  I'm just giving this cable a try, if it works out to not to do the exact same as a hardwire method, I'll be having words with Nextbase, as they clearly advertise it as the same.

[Graham47]

Bobby, won’t this connection be permanently live ?
I’m assuming this as the OBD port can be used for solar charging.

If so, you need to check it doesn’t discharge the Battery.

[152bobby]

15 minutes ago, Graham47 said:

Bobby, won’t this connection be permanently live ?
I’m assuming this as the OBD port can be used for solar charging.

If so, you need to check it doesn’t discharge the battery.

I did my research to the best of my ability and the Nextbase sells this specifically for ODB ports and it also states "low Battery protection 11V for 12V vehicles"

So I'm testing it over this weekend and keeping my Portable Booster Pack handy.

And if it proves rubbish, I'll just go down the "proper" hard wired route.

[152bobby]

9 minutes ago, 152bobby said:

I did my research to the best of my ability and the Nextbase sells this specifically for ODB ports and it also states "low battery protection 11V for 12V vehicles"

So I'm testing it over this weekend and keeping my Portable Booster Pack handy.

And if it proves rubbish, I'll just go down the "proper" hard wired route.

This is from the Nextbase website....

The Nextbase OBD Power Cable offers a simple plug & play solution with a 5-metre cable to give you the ability to install the power cable in your vehicle to meet your needs.

By using your vehicles OBD port the Dash Cam will be connected to a permanent power supply ensuring the camera is not only recording while you’re driving but also can access the power in the event of a collision when your vehicle is parked.

The OBD port eliminates the need to use the 12V outlet (car cigarette socket). It includes a 90° connector for an easier connection, as well as an LED indicator light to show when the Dash Cam is connected, and power is available.

[MikeSh]

1 hour ago, anchorman said:

You don’t need long runs Paul, it just needs to be in ready mode.

It had been in ready mode for 100 miles - the better part of two hours. Failure then is clearly not right.

[Graham47]

33 minutes ago, 152bobby said:

By using your vehicles OBD port the Dash Cam will be connected to a permanent power supply ensuring the camera is not only recording while you’re driving but also can access the power in the event of a collision when your vehicle is parked.

In that case there is every likelihood you will quickly flatten the 12v Battery unless you disable ‘parking mode’ on the Dashcam.

[152bobby]

3 minutes ago, Graham47 said:

In that case there is every likelihood you will quickly flatten the 12v battery unless you disable ‘parking mode’ on the dashcam.

Yes, to be safe, I think I will disable parking mode 👍

[anchorman]

4 hours ago, MikeSh said:

It had been in ready mode for 100 miles - the better part of two hours. Failure then is clearly not right.

It depends Mike.  You’d have to know if anything had been drawing 12v power or if anything was left switched on.  Assuming not, we know these batteries drop off a precipice all at once and neither driving or ready mode are going to make much difference.  

[MikeSh]

2 hours ago, anchorman said:

It depends Mike.  You’d have to know if anything had been drawing 12v power or if anything was left switched on.  Assuming not, we know these batteries drop off a precipice all at once and neither driving or ready mode are going to make much difference.  

No. If you've driven 100 miles and the 12V Battery gives up, either the Battery is trash or Toyota ****ed up. It's not a 'user' case.

It's time Toyota and other manufacturers building cars (usually hybrid or EV) with non-alternator based 12V systems got their act together.

[anchorman]

5 hours ago, MikeSh said:

No. If you've driven 100 miles and the 12V battery gives up, either the battery is trash or Toyota ****ed up. It's not a 'user' case.

It's time Toyota and other manufacturers building cars (usually hybrid or EV) with non-alternator based 12V systems got their act together.

That’s what I said. It amounts to poor quality batteries.  I’m pretty sure the calcs are right because they’ve migrated to the LBX. The solution is a £75 Yuasa replacement Battery.

[152bobby]

1 hour ago, anchorman said:

That’s what I said. It amounts to poor quality batteries.  I’m pretty sure the calcs are right because they’ve migrated to the LBX. The solution is a £75 Yuasa replacement battery.

I watched on YouTube about how to get to the Battery and taking it out, looks a real pain.  Can you imagine popping in to Halfords (for example) buying a Battery and getting one of those young guys to fit it 🥺🥺🥺

[Countryside]

If you get on well with your local Toyota dealer and turned up with a £75 yuasa Battery I’d think they would fit it for free ? Mine would I know all the staff 

[Primus1]

16 hours ago, 152bobby said:

Yes, to be safe, I think I will disable parking mode 👍

Have you considered getting a Battery pack, I have blackvue front and rear cameras powered by a Battery pack which is hardwired, when the ignition is off, the Battery still powers the Dashcam , obviously it depends on how charged the battery is for the length of time you have with the camera powered, usually hardwire kits have a battery voltage cutoff that is supposed to power down the camera to save the cars battery, a battery pack avoids this to a certain extent and , if fully charged, will power the camera for longer…

[152bobby]

32 minutes ago, Primus1 said:

Have you considered getting a battery pack, I have blackvue front and rear cameras powered by a battery pack which is hardwired, when the ignition is off, the battery still powers the dashcam , obviously it depends on how charged the battery is for the length of time you have with the camera powered, usually hardwire kits have a battery voltage cutoff that is supposed to power down the camera to save the cars battery, a battery pack avoids this to a certain extent and , if fully charged, will power the camera for longer…

I have but they are not cheap, but I'll consider it more now than I normally would 👍.  As far as I know Nextbase don't actually do one, so I'd have to research for a suitable one.

[Primus1]

33 minutes ago, 152bobby said:

I have but they are not cheap, but I'll consider it more now than I normally would 👍.  As far as I know Nextbase don't actually do one, so I'd have to research for a suitable one.

Yes they are expensive but what price security?, the blackvue one I have has an outlet, that the dash cam plugs into, ( same as the 12v outlet in the car) so, apart from the actual hardwiring, it easy to fit..

[152bobby]

1 minute ago, Primus1 said:

Yes they are expensive but what price security?, the blackvue one I have has an outlet, that the dash cam plugs into, ( same as the 12v outlet in the car) so, apart from the actual hardwiring, it easy to fit..

I'm just Googling which power bank would be compatible with Nextbase dashcams, I can only find Blackvue and Thinkware so far and not sure if they ONLY work with their own dashcams !!

[Cyker]

Pretty much any power bank will work with a Dashcam - They all use 5v and max 2.4A which is standard USB power.

The trick is to find one that will supply power while plugged in - The vast majority of bog standard consumer powerbanks I've seen won't power devices while being charged.

There are a few, mainly sold by the bigger dash cam manufacturers, and also one on the dashcamtalk forum (That one also uses lithium cells of the non-fiery type unlike most!) but are eyewateringly expensive compared to normal powerbanks.

[152bobby]

2 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Pretty much any power bank will work with a dashcam - They all use 5v and max 2.4A which is standard USB power.

The trick is to find one that will supply power while plugged in - The vast majority of bog standard consumer powerbanks I've seen won't power devices while being charged.

There are a few, mainly sold by the bigger dash cam manufacturers, and also one on the dashcamtalk forum (That one also uses lithium cells of the non-fiery type unlike most!) but are eyewateringly expensive compared to normal powerbanks.

Possibly this one.  I may my question on a Dashcam forum !!

https://thinkwaredashcam.eu/product/ivoltminiexternalbattery/