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Camry Stalling

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I just replaced the EGR valve on my daughters car and the stalling is still happening.

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Thanks to all who wrote in this forum.

I had the exact same symptoms once, stalled at a busy junction. But has not come back.

Although I sense that the engine sometimes misses when decelerating.

I took it to my mechanic along with this post.

He shorted some jumper in the diagnostics plug in the engine bay and went look at the Check engine light.

It was blinking 22 <==> Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.

It the one connected to a brown and green wired on the radiator return manifold on the 5SFE engine Camry 93 Aussie Wide body model. 260K KMs

Thanks to all who contributed.

Cheers.

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I've just spent the last 4 days trouble shooting my 2001 camary 2.2. After a lot of hair pulling and testing I was left with one choice evap system( some of you smelled fuel) I took a small clamp and pinched off the vac to evap solenoid by the throttle body walla problem stalling gone. No more stalls at idle no more erratic run on throttle. It's raining now will post back with fix. Vac line, canister or related part in system. Hope this helps

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I just wanted to say that I too had the stalling atthe light when the engine was warmed up, rpms would drop. Gave it to my mechanic for 4 days to try and trace the problem but couldn't because it would start right up after the stall and wasn't putting out any error codes. This is an honest shop (have taken my cars there for years) so he wasn't going to just start repairing things willy nilly until something worked. Anyway, I found this forum during the time he had it and read about the coolant temp sensor. I had to pick my car up on the fifth day because I needed for the weekend. To make a long story short I bought the coolant temp sensor for $24 installed it myself this past monday and I haven't had a problem since (knock on wood). I thought it was going to cost me more to fix my car than it was worth. It only has 154 000 km on it though.

So I just wanted to say thanks.

Ryan

Toronto, Canada

92 Camry 2.2L

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:( I also had the same problem with my camry 2.2 a year back..it's really frustrating.. eventually it forced me to switch from it to another model Sienna ..

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It seems like we share a basic common issue (stalling), but under some different causal conditions.

It seems that for those who suffer from a really simple, basic stall upon a cold start, the coolant temperature sensor just might be the trick. It's certainly among the less expensive shots in the dark (in my case, a $15 part). All you need is YouTube, a 19mm tall boy socket, and you're done. Unfortunately, it did not work for me, and I still search for the answer.

My conditions are as follows: 94 Camry 4C, 2.2L.

Engine is cold, but this happens usually after sitting in they sun all day. The problem never happens from an "overnight" cold engine. Usually by the first or second stoplight, I have the issue. The issue is not when I coast or stop, but when I start to accelerate out of the stopped position. The engine sputters and quits. Sometimes it quickly restarts, sometimes it needs a few minutes. I used to be ok once I got going, but now I have a really scary new condition... The engine starts to badly sputter while on the highway (not often, but it has happened now) and just dies. I have witnessed the tachometer start to wildly swing in a manner inconsistent with actual RPMs while the sputtering is happening. My trusted mechanic says that this probably points to a distributor or igniter issue. Problem is, I had the distributor, igniter, rotor, spark wires, plugs, etc, all replaced within the last year. Problem then seemed to be solved with the replacement of the spark plug wires. Almost a year of blissful non-eventfulness!

But now we're back to the beginning. Worthy of mention, the problem came back immediately after I had an Oil change and the mechanic popped open the air filter assembly to show me my "dirty" air filter. Ergo, he messed with the zone that deals with the intake manifold and the air intake sensor. He won't take responsibility because no one can find what exactly he supposedly messed up.

So, my theory after all of this is that we've got faulty sensors (we just don't know which ones in each of our cases). Perhaps they all suck. Problem is, they won't die and STAY DEAD. My trusted mechanic won't do anything until I can deliver to him a DEAD car. Mechanics of today have come to rely too much on computer-generated troubleshooting. They rely on computers to tell them what's wrong, and they have lost their ability to chase down and isolate the problem. My 94 has a computer in it. Why isn't there a code being thrown at it? The car has all of these sensors. When are hey gonna sense something useful to us?

I really wish I could donate the thing to the British army and have Harry take aim from the sky in his Apache, just to put it out of its misery. If the problem does not turn out to be the distributor area again, I'm hanging it up. Thanks for listening. -PJM, Arizona, USA

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So when my car started to die on the highway at 65MPH (in addition to the stop signs and lights), I noticed the tachometer bouncing up and down as it sputtered. I was able to restart and dialed my OLD mechanic from the road. On the phone, he said this condition sure sounded like a bad distributor... Only I had that... And the igniter, and the plug wires replaced 9 months ago. I brought it back to him as a potential warranty fix. And of course, over the next day and a half, he couldn't get it to replicate the issue (it's too spotty an issue).

I called him today and prodded him to actually test the distributor. He agreed that if he couldn't get the car to act up within another hour, he'd eat a warranty repair on the distributor. He tried one last time and experienced the problem on the road. Stalling with a goofy tachometer reading. That could mean one of two basic things, distributor or ECU. Distributor checked out fine. Checked the leads ins to the ECU (behind the glove box) and found a wire throwing out-of-spec signal due to a bad connection (due to years of road shock, etc). Replaced that $6.00 part and the engine now seems to run fine. ECU is sending and receiving on-spec voltage to all the right places. The entire job (with labor) was $96.00

Remember, this issue is most likely electric in nature, either a sensor or wiring of some sort. Ask you mechanic to have a look around the ECU (the computer, behind the glove box) and make sure that the wires have a good, solid contact with the unit. It is possible for a mechanic to verify proper voltages coming and going between the distributor and the ECU (my mechanic discovered the voltage problem while examining the distributor). It was the poor contact with the unit that accounted for the intermittent nature of the problem. Some days the connection was solid, some moments, not so good. My mechanic found situations of both.

My specs:

94 Camry 2.2L 4-Cyl

230,000 miles

Edited by ThrottleBody

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This forum and thread are magnificent to behold. I have similar problems, and many of you smart folk probably have the answer. I have a coolant temp sensor on the way to my house in the next few days, but I thought Id throw my symptoms in here in case someone had another suggestion.

Once upon a time my 93 manual camry drove beautifully. This baby never even hiccupped once in the entire time I owned it from 116,000km to 170,000kms then, one day, an evil shadow was cast over its life, when after a drive down a dirt road I hit a huge pothole and cracked the radiator.

Unknowingly I drove around until I noticed it overheating, and after pulling over noticed the radiator was bone dry! I went and fixed the radiator and drove around happily until about a week later out of the blue it overheated again, to the point of stalling. After it cooled, a few hours later I noticed the new radiator was bone dry again, and it turned out the water pump had a leak.

OK. Put it into the mechanic for a new waterpump, which involved changing the timing belt, and one day and $600 later I was driving home again, once again joyful.

The shadow persisted however.

About a week later, with no problems in between I went out to start it, after having already driven it that morning, to find the Battery totally dead. I push started it, and on the way home the car nearly died a few times, losing all power. I limped it home somehow, and it died right there in the driveway. So I replaced the alternator with a second hand one.

It all seemed fine, however I did not drive it that day, just started it up. The next day on the way to work it started fussing about again, losing power, nearly stalling. I somehow limped it up to kmart where the Battery (under warranty) was from, and it absolutely died meters from the garage. Faulty Battery they said, and replaced it.

With the new Battery in, now the car would not start. Over and over and over it turned but would not fire. After a while the guy said the immobiliser was stopping the car working, flicked the locks three times and after another 30 seconds cranking it finally turned over.

But wait! My car has an immobiliser?! I don’t have a key or anything to disable said immobiliser, so how is this possible! Sure enough, looking under the bonnet there is an immobilser. Who knew.

Driving away from kmart, the car lost power and died in the middle of driving. When accelerating, if the peddle was pushed down too hard the car would instantly lose power and stall. It was a hot day, and despite trying really hard, and after many attempt getting it started it was undriveable. I had it towed home by friends.

One of these friends said it didn’t sound like the fuel pump was priming when the engine was turned on. We could get the engine started, and sometimes it would idle ok, but the moment the accelerator was pushed a little too hard the engine stalled. At first it seemed we would be able to drive it being very careful with the accelerator, but under load it was impossible.

So I bought a fuel pump and replaced it. Slight improvement, but still stalling when pushing the accelerator. So I replaced the fuel filter. Same problem. Noticed that the air filter was all cracked and broken, replaced that as well.

After replacing the fuel filter I managed to drive it into town and pick up the air filter. On the way home it stalled on accelerating a few times, including right in the middle of a really busy intersection. After pooping myself, it started, and I got it home, barely.

In the meantime, I had it booked in the next morning to have the immobiliser removed properly, as I was left thinking this was the problem. I know its connected to the fuel system, and I know something dodgy is going on with it, as I have no special key or switch or anything (didn’t even know it existed). I also pulled many of the wires out myself trying to disable the brain of the thing. The next morning when I went to try and drive it to the shop, I could not get it started. At all. I drained the entire Battery trying to get it to fire once. Piece of !Removed! I thought to myself, as I had registered it just the day before thinking my problems would be solved.

I gave up and left it to rot.

Fast forward to 3 weeks later, I haven’t touched the thing, and my mother in law’s car plays up. All my tools are in the back of the camry still, so I open it up, and while im there think what the hell and try to turn it over. Boom, first turn. Starts. I then let it idle for 45 minutes to charge the Battery a bit. Doesn’t stall. Amazing. It does still however falter and stall if foot put on the accelerator. I haven’t tried to drive it.

Whats the difference between today and three weeks ago? Well, the temperature. The other morning it had been sitting in about 25oC heat for a few hours, and yesterday morning was a very brisk 1oC. The day it died driving from kmart had been over 30oC.

Reading through this thread has given me hope that the coolant temperature sensor was damaged the day it overheated and stalled. Because it was totally cold and it had dropped below freezing the night before, perhaps being cold is why it allowed it to start.

Even if it isn’t the problem, I have a little hope now that it is not totally dead. It was such a reliable car before. If anyone has anything else they think I could try, that wont cost me much money that would be great, and thinks all for your contribution to this thread.

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My 1995 toyota Camry with a 4 cylinder has the same problem of it stalling and having the rough idle and being hard to start at times. What I wanted to See was If the coolant temprature sensor was the problem so I unplugged it and drove the car upto operating temp because thats when it has the most problems. I found that all the symptoms that my camry was experiencing had gone away. I am planning to replace the sensor next week, but I am concerened that not having that sensor plugged in will cause me more problems. Does anyone know what could happen by not plugging that sensor in?

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"Does anyone know what could happen by not plugging that sensor in?"

From Wikipedia:

The coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine coolant of an internal combustion engine. The readings from this sensor are then fed back to the Engine control unit (ECU). This data from the sensor is then used to adjust the fuel injection and ignition timing. On some vehicles the sensor may be used to switch on the electronic cooling fan. The data may also be used to provide readings for a coolant temperature gauge on the dash. The coolant temperature sensor works using resistance. As temperature subjected to the sensor increases the internal resistance changes. Depending on the type of sensor the resistance will either increase or decrease.

On my 94 Camry, changing this sensor cost just $19 from the local auto parts store. My suggestion: Don't risk ruining your entire engine over a $20 part.

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I have a 1995 Toyota camry with a 185,000 miles and I have a similar problem. I consulted my mechanic and he suspects its the fuel filter or the coolant temp sensor. So to test the idea of it being the CTS I unplugged it and then drove my camry up to operating temperature and in conditions that would cause it to stall and have other problems and it had no problems with the sensor unplugged. All of the frustrating issues the car was experiencing were gone. So, I think its the coolant temp sensor that has gone bad or is going bad. I have not even looked into those other sensors because the CTS is only 16 dollars and can be replaced rather easily. I am going to start with the CTS first.

Thanks, just hoping I could offer another idea.

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Comprehensive Guide to Camry P0401 Code or Random stalling Issues.

Car: 98 Camry LE

Mi/Km: 244,000/~400,000

Issues:

1. P0401 - Low EGR flow :dontgetit:

2. No code: random choking / stalling / low Idle rumble @ 100-300 RPMs at stop lights & signs :disgust:

__________________________________

1. I have an Ultra guage (UG) that measures ~ up to 85 sensors/variables on a car/truck. Did not receive a hard code / check engine light. Rather UG said pending code = P0401. It took a week before the Check engine light went on. Researched several sights including this one and went to clean EGR valve. However, broke 2 bolts removing it. So had to replace with http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve-911-608/10097859-P?searchTerm=egr+valves @ $65 with code discounts. P0401 was still pending. So replaced EGR Modulator with http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-exhaust-gas-recirculation-modulator-911-609/10188643-P?searchTerm=egr+valves @$21. Still pending and now check engine light on. So tried to replace VSV buy going thru plastic shield behind rt passenger ft tire. But had no leverage to break bolt. almost stripped it. Bought part @ $45 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-intermotor-egr-vacuum-solenoid-egr287/20470054-P?searchTerm=egr+valves and took in to shop to install - $130. They reset Check engine light (CEL). 5 days later pending code from UG was P0401 and withing days CEL was on. Took back to garage to diagnose:

1. Checked VSV vac line connections and connector.

2. Checked hoses for: leaks, cracks, firmness, connections.

3. Then they removed EGR valve, took a brass pipe cleaner 12" long and cleaned EGR line from under valve towards exhaust.

Cost $55.

Just before this I developed a 2nd issue with random engine choking / stalling / low Idle 100-300 RPMs at stop lights & signs. So mechanic drove car 10 miles, picked me up in it and drove another 10 miles and could not duplicate the random choking / stalling / low Idle 100-300 RPMs at stop lights & signs. Paid $55 and left. At 1st stop light after leaving shop, car began choking / stalling / low Idle 100-300 RPMs and then got better the farther I drove. Went on highway to blow the carbon in the EGR tube out of system. It may have stuck at low end of tube. After 2 miles P0401 pending UG code was up. 2 more miles CEL was on. Went fast up long steep ramp and gunned it to over 75 mph to blow carbon out. The P0401 pending code and CEL were off and stayed off. So carbon was pushed down tube but must have clogged the pipe that must be longer than their 12" brush. Went on ebay and ordered 5 stst 12" brushed and 4 nylon 22" brushes to clean tube better and for future maintenance 3/8"-1/2"). The 22" will push carbon back to exhaust - hopefully.

The P0401 in my case appears to have been fixed with cleaning of the EGR pipe to the exhaust (~1/2" diam). I possibly did not need to spend $135 parts and $185 labor (Orig parts cost = $215). But, PArts are relatively inexpensive for a 16 yr old car.

2. The random choking / stalling / low Idle rumble @ 100-300 RPMs at stop lights & signs was something that developed After replacing all 3 EGR components. The randomness was such that it might happen once in 5-10 trips. But became more frequent. The same day that I paid $55 to have the EGR tube cleaned (read above) I went to take back vacuum hoses to auto supply store. Car started fine, got on highway, then when I got off, it happened again at the 1st stoplight, next stoplight and then died at next stop sign. It took 5-6 tried to start before it did. Got to Auto store and it died in parking lot. Called mechanic that fixed it earlier that day to describe what happened. Tried to start car 10 x's, no can do. Mechanic said to put 1 foot on brake and 1 on gas, it started fine until I let foot off gas. Then caput. Went in stor to return parts and came out. Car started fine and drove home fine. Took to shop next day and they vitrually said that they are at a looss and don't know where to go from their. Found this sight and a few others and did the following:

http://yotarepair.com/Engine.html

1. Removed and cleaned air filter.

2. Checked housing and Intake air mainfold for cracks or leaks.

3. Removed Intake air connection to throttle body

4. Carb-cleaned Throttle, body, back side.

5. sprayed IAC infront and below throttle 5 times: Was Black, Black, Black-grey, grey and then clear.

6. wiped clean.

Car ran fine for 1.5 days and then Issue #2 again. Note, P0401 is gone.

Lastly read tread on P1-17 and found this as well: http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/5oucl-toyota-camry-le-1998-toyota-camry-stalls-stoplights.html

The second thing and is the more cheaper thing to do is to replace the EFI coolant
temperature sensor. This is the green sensor top connector.

The coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine
coolant of an internal combustion engine. The readings from this sensor are then
fed back to the Engine control unit (ECU). This data from the sensor is then
used to adjust the fuel injection and ignition timing.

I ordered part: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-coolant-temperature-sensor-36424/
18890910-P?searchTerm=coolant+temp+sensor#fragment-3
$25, installed it and now for 3 days no issues, the idle is better and consistent. Typical idle is 700-900 rpm. Note, in my case I was able to open the radiator cap when cold. tighten it, remove coolant temp sensor without draining coolant. No leaks. But do at you own risk. Also went to Auto parts store to read 98 Camry Hanes manual - it said that coolant temp sensor should read 2500-3000 Ohms. Mine measured 1578. so it was bad.

Hopefully this help a lot of people out there on both issues [ P0401 & random choking / stalling / low Idle rumble @ 100-300 RPMs at stop lights & signs]. I went thru a lot in 7 days and with little help from the shops (they were at a loss after the 3 return), but I think I found all the gremlins. This should detail most of the items to look at and address. Some are free, others take time and $$. Below are a few other parts to try if you go beyond what I did:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-intermotor-engine-coolant-temperature-sen
sor-wt653/20474711-P?searchTerm=coolant+temp+sensor#fragment-1


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/throttle-body-parts/15362?isAllVehicle=false
&showTitle=&vehicleIdFromReq=40277&vehicleIdSearch=40277


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3/ignition-coil-components/16064?isAllVehicle=
false&showTitle=&vehicleIdFromReq=40277&vehicleIdSearch=40277


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051
&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Suggest&langId=-1&searchTerm=manifold
+air+pressure+sensor&vehicleIdSearch=40277&searchedFrom=header


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051
&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=temp+sensor
&vehicleIdSearch=40277&searchedFrom=header


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051
&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&searchTerm=iac+%28idle
+air+control%29+valve&vehicleIdSearch=40277&searchedFrom=header

By: 400K Kilometers.

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"Does anyone know what could happen by not plugging that sensor in?"

From Wikipedia:

The coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine coolant of an internal combustion engine. The readings from this sensor are then fed back to the Engine control unit (ECU). This data from the sensor is then used to adjust the fuel injection and ignition timing. On some vehicles the sensor may be used to switch on the electronic cooling fan. The data may also be used to provide readings for a coolant temperature gauge on the dash. The coolant temperature sensor works using resistance. As temperature subjected to the sensor increases the internal resistance changes. Depending on the type of sensor the resistance will either increase or decrease.

On my 94 Camry, changing this sensor cost just $19 from the local auto parts store. My suggestion: Don't risk ruining your entire engine over a $20 part.

I've found some time to read on wikipedia, but I guess it was not accurate enough for reference ..
most of us think maybe he's quite a lot of talk about this car and all kinds of problems, but it was not quite updated so that sometimes does not fit with most existing problems.
free expression.
I hope this helps. mr. throtle body give the way he experience.. thanks

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Hi,

I just want to thank everyone on this thread for helping me fix my car. Especially IVE - #53, also after fixing my car #162 gives a better idea of just what other problems the EFI Coolant Temp Sensor can cause.

Thanks

Video of what I did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWd4_l706to

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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder and it is shutting down while I'm driving as well as at intersections while idling.  A diagnostic indicated a faulty mass air flow sensor, but changing resulted in minimal improvement---still shuts down.  I have read on this forum that changing the distributer has solved others' problems, but all of those cases were on older models.  Do you think changing it on my 2010 might be advisable?

 

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