Leaderboard

I always used to use 5/30 in mine & the consumption was absolutely nil. Flushing, as Mistermena states, causes the carbon seal formed on piston & rings to be dissolved. It will gradually reform especially if you are now using a little bit of oil. I personally always used to use semi-synthetic 5/30 & changed at approx 5000mls. You can use 10w/40 as this is a little heavier but will take marginally longer to circulate around the engine, especially in the now cold weather. A 5w/40 could be used, giving cold weather starting protection, but is often only available as a fully synthetic oil & therefore a bit more expensive. Also, why use the more expensive petrol? Normal unleaded is fine. It is not a high compression performance engine & providing no pinking occurs, will be entirely suitable providing the timing is correct. If you are wondering why I'm talking in the past tense, it is because someone decided to alter the shape of the rear of the car by driving forwards but looking where they had been! Happy motoring!

Tyre prices do seem to have gone up; I had a set of 4 EcoContact 3's fitted for something like £55 a wheel all-in back in march, but I recently had to replace my off-side front due to a slow puncture. Took it in to be repaired but the tyre place said they couldn't as it turned out there were three nails stuck in it! The same tyre cost me £67 - ~£10 up in less than a year! I'm now very glad I listened to the all-knowing madasafish when he was warning about the price of rubber going up due to all the oil stuff going on and changed my tyres back then But £196 for one tyre?! Youch... My sympathies! This is why I love having 14" rims on my Yaris - If I had 15" rims the tyre price almost doubles!

Hi I would use a good body repair shop some dealers do not have a body shop so they palm it out anyway