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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/08/2014 in all areas

  1. Congratulations on your new car, sounds like you are getting good mileage already. Be happy with 45mpg in town on short stop start, it's very decent especially as your old car got mpg in the teens. I have another car that gets 12mpg on short journeys. Drive it normally with some minor adjustments and you will be looking at a nice further boost in mpg. Do not drive it slow. Get up to speed as quick as possible without over fuelling. Don't be scared to use the pwr band if needed. I use it especially for higher speeds but try not to exceed past the end unless you are joining the m way etc. Keep speed steady, try not to vary the speed as slight accelerations interrupt the good efficiency. Then the only adjustment you need to make to your driving style really is the slowing down bit. The prius is pretty aerodynamic and providing the speed is under about 50mph, it will glide for quite some time on the flat and especially downhill. People practice this imagining they haven't got brakes "driving without brakes". You can do this and not annoy anyone as it looses speed very slowly (unless wind resistance hits and you are doing more than 50mph). You can even begin earlier by slightly reducing the throttle and bleed off tiny amounts of speed before you begin slowing down. As I get up to speed quick, I usually overshoot the posted limit but usually only by enough to keep me roughly within the 10%+2 gps true speed rule. If that makes sense. All you have to remember is check the hsi indicator and make sure you apply just enough throttle to make the indicator disappear or stay in the first quarter. Don't let it go into regen as the extra drag this creates slows you down more and is only useful downhill. I gradually got better mileage as I got used to it. Ironically I am now a faster driver and use ev less. It's true what they say, do not force ev. Just let it happen, by all means hang on to it but don't exhaust the battery extra fast by trying to stay under the middle line going up hill. Just use it when you can stay under about half way on the Eco zone of hsi. With tyres pumped up correctly you will roll/glide for ages on minimal battery at less than 40mph on good flat road. I seem to have no issues getting tank averages in the 67-71mpg range. It's incredible to get over 550miles on £48 of petrol. And I repeat you don't have to drive slow either! The only time mpg suffers is motorway. My routes don't include it. Wind resistance is unavoidable. However most motorway trips finish up at at least 64mpg provided there is some normal driving each end.
    2 points
  2. You could try putting some additive like Forte or BG in the tank, disconnect the battery negative for a while (to clear the fault code) or use the ELM327, then get the engine really hot and go out for a fast drive in lower gears at high revs as this can clean the crud off the sensors. Driving the car on short trips on just a warm engine in traffic can cause your problem so the odd Italian tuneup can help to prevent/cure this. Pete.
    1 point
  3. I used to use one of these for my Prius - http://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Functional-7-stage-battery-charger/dp/B00E5VS58Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410171061&sr=8-2&keywords=ctek+battery+charger It comes with leads that you can attach permanently to the car with a socket on the end. You just connect the charger when you need it. The thing charges the battery then switches to a 'maintenance mode' which will keep it charged. You can leave it connected for months without any issues. Lots of people with classic cars which are left cocooned all winter use them...
    1 point
  4. I go away each year for 6 months (I don`t do British winters) and have an Auris HSD excel. I use a Ctek to maintain the charge and have found it works great and when I come back I find the car starts first time. http://smartercharger.com/ Best to search online for cheapest price on amazon or ebay.
    1 point
  5. is the difference very noticeable? Went for the enhanced filter as my partner has asthma, and the traffic in Birmingham tends to be quite heavy - both in volume, fumes, etc. She reckons its better than the standard filter. The enhanced filter with discount worked out at just over £22, so for my Auris about £8 more than the standard. So for that difference, I thought it was worth a try.
    1 point
  6. Yes, he is correct, like any engine on a cold day the lubricants are cold and less effective, let it run beofre you put the motor under any load. some diesels have an idle up button that you press and it raises the revs so the motor warms faster. Secondly, Petrol engine main form of combustion is through spark and explosion of fuel, diesels work on compressoin. given this the amount of CCA or cold cranking amps your vehicle needs from the battery is higher. it will state the CCA amps on the battery so if you ever have to replace it ensure you get one with the manufacturers bare minimium, never hurts to get a higher rated battery as you engine will start easier.
    1 point
  7. Update. I had the opportunity to check my son's battery today and found it very low. After a short run followed by 20 min rest the standing voltage with all load turned off was 9.8v and it dropped to 9.0v for an instant when the start button was pressed. This time it did start without a problem and the voltage rose to 14.3v. Armed with these figures he is going to go back to the dealer to get them to replace the battery. Michael - it's a 2011 Gen 3
    1 point
  8. I purchased my first IQ new in March 2013 (pearl white) and was previously a member of this forum until my details were lost in a server failure. I visited my Toyota dealer last week to view the Aygo but was not impressed, the build quality was no match for the IQ. I was told the IQ was being discontinued so ordered a new one which I took delivery of today, a nice chilly red IQ CVT. No regrets about buying a discontinued model. Over 40 years of motoring driving many different cars large and small, none have been as much fun as the IQ. End of an era.
    1 point
  9. Having worked in motor insurance in the past I've seen all the scams out there. Don't tell lies, however white 'you' feel they are. Of course it's your choice and decision to do that, but what people always forget is that they tell a white lie to try and get cheap insurance and then tell the truth, and nothing but the truth when they claim. Seriously, they really do. :) Then people also forget that whilst their accident damaged car is sat at the repairers, the first thing an assessor looks for are modifications, induction kits, non standard allow wheels, tuning chips etc. Some of these are hidden from view, but many are not. Then it's a simple "You're not covered because of ......" No doubt to wails of "insurers are just scammers etc" from the customer caught out. But it's simple, tell your insurer. As others have said, some insurers want totally standard risks and rate accordingly (usually cheaply). Then there are specialists who are happy to take on modified vehicles, but they may be more expensive. Think about WHY. Because modified vehicles are a higher risk. Whether it's because a base BMW modified to look like an M3 might get nicked more (for parts even) or driven as if it was an M3, to the yoof with his modified Corsa screaming around Asda carpark in the evening. But the stats support it. For all the customers who modify a car, care for it and mollycoddle it, there are a good proportion who do the opposite. Also, if you have modified wheels, body kit etc and have a smash (even if it's not your fault), it generally takes longer to source replacements for the modified parts, meaning the customer is in a hire car longer, hogs space at the repairers and it all costs more. That extra cost needs passing on some how. So the moral is tell the insurers if you have modified your car. Simple. You may think they may not find out but do you want to chance that? If they do, you may not be paid out for your claim and will have your smashed car returned to you with a bill for the initial recovery and inspection costs. The insurers are obligated to pay damage and losses to third parties if the accident was your fault, BUT if they've voided your policy due to non disclosure, they'll often come looking to you for recovery of those costs - think whiplash, lawyers fees, hire car fees etc. Then your details are added to the database for non disclosure and you'll then have a hell of a job getting insurance in the future. Or just tell your insurers of modifications and pay a little extra if that's what they ask. It's dead easy. http://www.consumeractiongroup.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?251871-Please-help!-Void-car-insurance http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/news/car-insurance-economy-with-the-truth-costs-drivers-dearly.html
    1 point
  10. I believe you are experiencing this: Technical Service Bulletin EG-0014T-0114 Subject:1AD-FTV V-Belt abnormal noise Models:AURIS; AVENSIS; COROLLA; VERSO Model codes:ADE150; ADE157; ADE186; ADT250; ADT251; ADT270;ADT271; ADE150; AUR20; AUR21 INTRODUCTIONThis Technical Service Bulletin is to inform you of a revision to the BELT, V-RIBBED. DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENONSome customers may experience and report squeaking/rattling noise from BELT, V-RIBBED around1500~2000rpm, due to slipping of the belt on the pulleys. PRODUCTION CHANGEThe design of the BELT, V-RIBBED has been changed to avoid slipping. Go to your local dealer refer them to this bulletin and get the modified belt fitted, I have had plenty of people reporting this issue only on 2012/2013 2.0d4d models and all of them have been cured with this modified belt.
    1 point
  11. Thanks dude you are a legend!!
    1 point
  12. Just checking to see what the interest is for a iQ Workshop Manual on CD.I have just bought one at great expense and wanted to see if people are interested to have a copy for a fee. David
    1 point
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