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I think that you are going to get wind noise around the mirrors of any car. My car came s/h with wind deflectors already fitted so I can't be sure that my car & yours sound the same but it's not a big issue for me (esp. as I usually have the radio on). Whilst the door skin cracking problem obviously exists I don't think that it is that common plus afaik by your car & mine had been addressed in production. Iirc the book does say service every year or 12,500 miles - whichever comes sooner.

OK follow up to my problem which is now fixed (I hope) finding any information on Toyota's is a pain I have to say any mention of lack of heat seems to flag head gasket failure as the cause, the car uses/looses no coolant so it came down to rolling up my sleeves and a bit of exploration. 1st following Duggerz tip my thoughts were "it cant be that simple" well sadly it wasn't, and as it turned out there was no pollen filter at all fitted ??? There is now though. So one possible cause out of the way. While in there I could see the heater matrix feeder pipes and both were hot so it must be the air passing over the matrix (or lack of). I then played hunt the servo drive that controls the heat. Found it after digging under the drivers side dash the servo could be felt working when I rotated the heat control so time for tea and head scratching. Eventually I took off the servo to see if I could see any more or get a clearer view what was happening. The problem was the operating arm that moves the flap, the molded pin on the arm was missing changing the flap looks like a major dash dismantling job but moving the flap by hand proved that this was the issue. Time for more tea and head scratching, eventually I used my Dremel to drill the arm tapped a thread and fitted a grub screw to act as the pin. Before fitting the grub screw I dipped one end in Gorilla glue screwed it in and left it to set, All the moving bits I gave a squirt with Lithium Spray grease and made sure it moved easily, put the servo back and tried it. All working again so put it all back together. 3 days now and still working so fingers crossed

BTW - for every person on the internet who wants to find out why their car is burning oil, I imagine there are lots more who's car isn't and they aren't bothering to get on the web to tell everyone their car ISN'T burning oil!

I've recently asked the same question and got good answers on this forum. I've just bought an 85k 05 car in otherwise great condition - decent Bridgestones all round, expensive wipers, lots of indicators that the car has been cherished. I reckon if the previous owner knew it was an oil burner, they wouldn't have spent all this 'unnecessary' extra money on it. I've no idea if it was a new short block one but I've done 300 miles and the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved, I'm using V power in it for the time being as I want to do my usual 1 tank of v power then 2 tanks of regular routine. I guess the scientific way to tell would be to get engine block numbers etc, or just use your intuition. If the worst it does is burn a bit of oil, you'll still see a lot of life in it yet and have a car which is lovely too.

One thing I have noticed, is that some dealerships don't seem to know things that others dealers, members of the forum are aware of. The OP could go to another dealer who knows how to clear the fault code. I had my rear brakes changed, and after initial flashing EPB light, cleared by engaging and disengaging the EPB, pumping and holding down the brake pedal and switching on the off the engine. It has been fine since. Maybe this non-technical way may work. You never know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-AURIS-Mk1-Space-Saver-Spare-Wheel-17-/121842388070?hash=item1c5e5f4c66:g:p7gAAOSwJcZWcmV- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-2008-2015-TOYOTA-AURIS-SPACE-SAVER-SPARE-WHEEL-/111879734922?hash=item1a0c8d468a:g:bG0AAOSwUV9WnoNh

Your 2015 Auris will have Touch 2 in comparison to the earlier Touch system mentioned on this thread, the part numbers you want are here : http://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/86e5df73-f28d-4441-a3a1-252dd600ae09/Auris_RHD_Touch_2_with_Go_Plus_PZ490_00334_B0_AIM_002_225_3.pdf

No as posted previously cruise is not available on 1.33 & 1.4 d4d on Auris Most Yaris 1.33 with 1nrfe engine can accept cruise control. I'm posting the guides below. http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33750http://web.newsguy.com/mcclure/Yaris/2006-2011%20Yaris%20OEM%20Cruise%20Control%20DIY%2020110315.pdfThe question now (again) is why the hell Auris 1.33 1nrfe doesn't work with the cruise control stalk. Does it have different ECU? Doesn't it have the wire to the ECU? Why Toyota doesn't help? Since they don't install cruise control. Nobody's going to change his Auris and buy a new Toyota just for the cruise control. I'll check the wiring of the car better. Anybody has more information please post. Most 1.33 is wrong, cruise can only be fitted to a Mk3 1.33 Yaris as a factory order, if the car left the factory without cruise it cannot ( with out great expense ) be fitted as the car is missing a switch, control module, the additional wiring and a Cruise equipped engine ECU. At present cruise is only available on Yaris 1.33/1.4 Icon +, Tspririt, Excel and Hybrid models as they leave the factory with it fitted. As for Auris, 1.33/1.4d cannot have cruise. The link you provide only mentions 1.5 US and 1.3 Australian models these are didderent to EU spec and obviously include the additional equipment required from factory, EU models don't. As for Toyota not helping they will not comment on items not fitted at the factory or not available as an approved accessory.

Cruise cannot be installed by just fitting the Toyota cruise switch on: 1.33 dual VVTi 1.4 VVTi 1.4 D4D The required wiring and ECU functionality does not get installed on these engines. Aftermarket kits may be available. But can be added to: 1.6 dual VVti & Valvematic 1.8 HSD 2.0 D4D 2.2 D4D ( where steering wheel has access panel )

The speedo issue I covered in another blog. My complaint is that I can not see accurately when I am doing 30,50 or 70. The speedo is too far out of eye-line and the increments too small as it goes up to 160. My issue is that it would be a very simple fix to put digital speed on the Trip display instead of Eco Drive level or one of the meaningless data reads duplicated on the Touch screen. My DAB is always set to radio 2 and works all over the country, that said it once lost all signals. I switched off went through the media buttons and it worked again. I also think there is a DAB menu in the secret menu. To get there: - Push the Power button twice, no brake pedal, you end up in IGN ON condition - Push the switch "CAR" on the Touch dash and keep it pressed - Turn the light ring to the extreme low and high, 3 times in a row - Watch the Touch screen: a black & white menu does appear; touch the option Function check/Setting - Another menu does appear; Lots of features are available here. I tried to "open up" the sounder for the reverse beep but have not found it easy. The odd thing is that in the rear the recess above the boot light (near side) has a grill it the top, but the offside one is enclosed I guess the sounder on LH drive cars is on the other side. Spare wheel kit is great but the blocks go UNDER the wheel so the hold down bolt can be tightened.