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After some much head scratching due to no codes to work with the car has now thrown one, P1238 "injector malfunction". The mechanic needs to confirm which one is the problem once the cover is off but just by doing the screwdriver test in looks like injector 4 is sticking. This only causes an issue when the car is cold and initially warming up. Once the car is up to temperature it seems to work fine. The mechanic thinks that the injector is sticking open slightly and dumping excess fuel in the cylinder which is causing the smoke from unburnt fuel. I am on my second tank with additive which the mechanic recommended and the car is miles better. My starts are much better (normally 1st attempt but never more than 2) and as I say it is only sticking when cold (you can here the diesel knock go away once warmed up). I live in the country and need my car for the next two weeks while working night shift. Thankfully my work is a 65 mile round trip so it will get a good run and a chance to clear everything out. The mechanic said if the problem hasn't gone by then, it probably won't go away then he will look at getting a price for all 4 injectors to be sent to the local diesel specialist who repair injectors, he is also going to replace the copper washers as he suspects there is also some blow by getting caused by them as there seems to be pressure in the crankcase and its breathing heavy(purely diesel fumes, no smell of burning oil). The breather is connected to the intake housing which is dumping this residue in to my lower intercooler pipe which was initially confusing as he couldn't understand where the oily residue was coming from as the turbo is fine. Does anyone know roughly how much it costs to have 4 injectors repaired. This is the preferred option as new injectors for a 2.2 d4d cost a fortune and the car isn't really worth that.

The vacuum pump is associated with the braking system so I don't see the connection with the issues that you are experiencing. The EGR can be cleaned ad infinitum but it can take time and patience to allow solvent to penetrate the deposits and to scrape out buildup - so maybe it was more cost effective to replace the unit. The key thing with the limp mode episodes is the fault code that's generated - this would be helpful in determining what's going on - did the two Toyota garages read the codes? It sounds as if the DPF is regenerating at a much greater frequency than expected. This could be due to a genuine need to regenerate or a differential pressure measurement error which if flagging up the need to regenerate. After determining the fault codes - the next course of action would be to measure the pressure differential across the DPF and if this is within spec to check the pressure tappings and pressure switches. Conceivably the episodes of frequent regeneration could also be due to a software issue. I'm assuming that the correct low ash / medium SAPS engine oil is being used and "normal" fuel is being used. Bio diesel significantly increases the soot load on the DPF.

Happy ending folks! Thanks to advice gained from this forum, I realised that this could be as simple as a broken split pin attaching the cable to the rear brake assembly. That’s what it was! Saved about £1000. many thanks to all for information.

I kind of did the opposite, changed the radio head-unit but kept the standard door and rear panel speakers. I have a Pioneer unit in the dash now with DAB and USB slot playing MP3 files. Sounds good with the stock speakers but I was able to turn the bass down on the speakers as I also run a separate, underseat sub made by Kenwood. This is powered from specific sub outputs from the head-unit so you can crank the bass up to the sub only and leave the door speakers handling mid and high frequencies only. The stock speakers distort pretty bad when it comes to handling the lower frequencies. Steering wheel controls still work through a little adaptor box. Craig.

Rolling wheel arches? 🤔

The car is fitted with Active headrests, in the event of an impact the front material part pops forwards to cushion your head/neck.The cable is part of the mechanism and attached down inside the seat, You can't put covers over them if you want them to work.

I bought from eBay, it does not matter whether the steering wheels or the grip for cruise control. Before buying, please make sure and check by connecting the cable to the plug (B) pin 24 and connecting it to the mass of the car, the green CRUISE should light up

It's good practise to change idlers, tensioners etc. if the water pump is driven by the cam belt, so it's not necessary on the Prius, as it isn't. I would only change them if they have excessive play or are noisy.

Thank you for your suggestions. Unfortunately the wheel is damaged. The boltholes became elliptical somehow and the wheel nearly came off (!)