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Protection against thieves? Well, it used to be called the law but then all sorts of protectional clap trap was introduced by do-gooders and found more easy to enforce than actually stopping the people from taking what doesn't belong to them. Now, you aren't allowed to give the individual who is helping themselves to your property a good pasting. Apparently, one of the most effective deterrents is prayer and the fear of being smited for ones sins by the almighty or in the case of prius catalytic converters, hope that God is looking and lets the jack slip.

OK

I picked mine up last Tuesday, I was lucky, I ordered it in March but it came 2 weeks early. The Sales Manager told me now AWD models are now out for October/November delivery, demand has been very high, when I collected mine there were 4 others being delivered for collection too.

A quickie tonight 😄

Individual journeys can vary tremendously, especially if you start with 7 bars on the HV battery and finish with 2 or vice versa. Factor in the optimistic computed figures in-car too - since year 2000, I've logged tank to tank fuel use and mileage or all my Toyotas (9 of them) and invariably the calculated figures have been between 3% & 8% higher than what the car said, so I always reduce individual journey claims by 5%, this being an approximate average over estimatation. Then of course, we don't know how accurate the odometer is, but all the ones I've seen checked have over-read too. I've had computed mpg figures of low 80s on 120 miles journeys in fair weather, favourable traffic and gentle driving in ECO mode on my current Prius, and 97.5 mpg on a 19 mile journey. But I also do lots of short cold start journeys, which can get wincingly low mpg reports, especially if in cold weather and starting with a low HV battery charge so the engine finishes a warm-up cycle just as I switch off again. As you can see from Fuelly, my overall average at the moment is 63½, and this is slowly climbing as the weather warms up (though not this weekend!). When I get it, I'll start getting a real feel for my RAV4's average mpg with my particular terrain and driving style once I've done several full tank calculations. In case anyone is interested (and hasn't seen it) I quoted some fuel consumption figures for my two test drives in the notes I wrote up: http://www.biwel.com/pmb01/RAV4_Dynamic_FWD_Test_Drive.pdf

I take it you meant 155 not 115 ? Confused me that lol.

Picked up mine today. Excel 4WD. Ordered Mid March. Collected it today 😂

As regards the original post, I don't understand how a faulty part of the exhaust system would cause trouble with the HV battery unless the heat from the catalyst is affecting the battery compartment. In instances like these, I find that it can be a useful ploy to act a bit "honest John" and just ask the diagnosing technician to explain how a faulty catalytic converter will affect the engines ability to charge the battery since you honestly find it difficult to comprehend. Its like saying that there's cornflakes for breakfast because your aunties name is Ethel!

Got the car back from the dealers today. Fault was the reversing sensors ECU. (The brains of the sensors). Work was carried out under warranty.

I fitted an underseat sub and bought some sticky velcro/hook&loop tape, used the 'hook' part only stuck to sub underside thus using original carpet under driver seat as the 'loop' part. I did it as I didn't want to drill any fixing holes for sub under the seat. Did this few years ago and it hasn't moved at all.

Hi Kev, and welcome to the board. Now then this could be a couple of things....Firstly the rear lights. What I did to seal .the rear lights was NOT to silicone them into place as this causes problems if you have to change a bulb, later, rather than that I got some waterproof draught excluder (On a roll, you can get it from B&Q or Wilkinsons) and stick it around the hole on the back of the lights, where the foam seal was. You can also run it around the back, inside edges of the lights (about half an inch in, so it doesn't show) to seal the outer edges of the light cluster to the bodywork. I had a problem with the back lights misting up and whilst I was doing that, I drilled two holes in the black, back of the light cluster, right at the extreme edges, got a hair dryer in there for about 5 minutes. Be careful when you are drilling but that is the only way, as the lens is sealed to the reflector but once it has dried, get some silicone sealant and put a smear of it all around the edge of the light between the black back and the lens. Then put a dab of silicone in each drill hole to seal the unit up again. I had problems with misty back lights for years but since I did this, last year, haven't had the problem since. The other place that your leak could be coming from is the high level brake light. To sort that, unscrew it, take out the light cluster and other bits so that you just have the lens. Chances are that the seal has broken down so clear it all off from the back of the light and the bodywork and run a bead of silicone around it. Refit the unit and the silicone should "Squidge out" onto the bodywork but a damp paper towel will wipe it off....Don't leave the silicone to dry as it then becomes a Stanley Knife job and that's not good against paintwork. It is a bit of a faff to get the rear light off but you'll need a 10mm spanner, there is only one nut but it's up behind the rear three-quarter panel trim and is a bit of a pig to get to but if you take your time, you can do all three lights, for little money, in a couple of hours. All the best and I hope that helps.

quick update, after some research,I found a company that sold a Weber re-placement carb at £289+vat, also lots of Toyota s/h parts are on E-bay. I contact one of these Breakers,who,initially said no,but then called me back and said they had a complete s/h carb. cost £60+ £15 p&p. duly supplied and fitted,the car runs beautifully,the plugs so clean and light tan !!!! happy result thanks for all your help. regards John.