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Go easy on me people as this is my first post ! (I'm hoping this will help everybody being 'stung' by Toyota ?) Ran my 1998 Corolla liftback for 17 years, it was 20 years old when I changed it, and I'm already regretting it. (it was getting to the stage where it needed a few jobs and I would have felt obliged to fix it myself, as I've always done in my 46 years motoring). Sorry I'm 'waffling' ! Anyway I'd always said if I did change the Corolla I'd get a Toyota Hybrid. (well proven technology). The Prius's seemed more popular and more expensive, so I plumped for an Auris hybrid 2015, in April 2018. Took it in for it's annual service this week, (Toyota Main dealer), and asked if they could look at the steering, as at slow speeds, 1-4 mph, I could feel a knock from just below the steering wheel. (couldn't hear it). No play in the steering wheel & it didn't wander on the road. Twice they told me they couldn't find anything wrong but I refused to collect the car as there definitely WAS a knock, and I didn't want to end up 2 years down the line, stumping up for a repair, you know the scenario, car out of warranty, 'your cars failed it's MOT sir, play in the steering', and a large bill ! (headache!) I insisted the workshop foreman contact me to discuss, but this was going to be the next day. In the meantime I searched on the internet ' Auris steering column knock', (bet you all know what comes next !) ? I just couldn't believe it, LOADS of problems, lots of suggestions for causes and remedies, background to Toyota recall etc etc, and many unlucky owners landed with a repair bill & Toyota trying to 'wriggle' out of responsibility. (out of warranty, not a safety issue, too many miles etc). This vehicle has covered just 29,000 miles by the way. The workshop foreman called me, we discussed the problem, (me telling him! ), and he reassured me that he would consult the Toyota technical bulletins. One hour later I had a call from service, 'we've ordered some parts and we'll be replacing the WHOLE steering column with updated parts'. On reading the forum I would have thought that if there was a problem with the column, splines, soft clamp bolts or lack of lubrication, and it went back years, had had a recall issued, then it would have been sorted? Apparently not so ! Let this be a warning to everyone, it HASN'T been sorted, so if you have, or think you have this problem, log it with Toyota to protect yourself! One final point: I did say that the car didn't wander, but driving home after the repair it did seem a lot more positive in terms of staying where it was put on the road? Regards & hope this helps?

Average MPG from last time you started the car until you stop it, as simple as that. Same with "Since Refuel" which is even more obvious or "Since Reset", the last time you pushed the reset button. Don't over-think it !

Even though I haven’t got my rav4 yet I would also be very interested in the possibility of a replacement unit

Hi I have already posted this. but it might be useful for you. Hi Teresa, Nice to hear from you. Yes I had a nice time away thank you. Your Rav4 is still looking good for March registration and delivery. Yes the Apple car play is being added to the 20.5 models, but this is going to reflect in a cost increase of around £500 we are being told by Toyota. Your car will not have the Apple car play, however it will be available as a retro fit option of which again I am told will cost approx £500 thus not making any difference due to your car being cheaper. If you decide to fit later in the future then it will always be an option The 20.5 models will not be available for delivery until at least summer if not September, as Toyota are still producing the current order bank they have.

If you have smart entry there should be a section on the front of the door handles marked with about 3 horizontal bars that you touch with a finger to lock the car. On some models it's on the side, some have two such areas on the top and bottom of the handle. If you have these marks and it doesn't seem to work, it's possible a previous owner may have disabled it in the vehicle settings menus on the centre screen. If you don't have smart entry, these options will be greyed out (if they are shown). Some people disable this because of all the relay thefts in the news. Some people put their keys in Faraday pouches at home for this reason, but I disable my key when I get home (hold lock, press unlock twice at the same time). When I go to get in the car, pressing either button on the key reinstates the key.

It's ok to have oil on the tail of spark plugs. Usually it is caused by spilled oil during oil change next to the filling hole. Otherwise, it's from rubber seal leak on the spark plugs hole with valve cover gasket. But only in 10 years or older engine . That rubber gasket becomes brittle after about 10 years on my 2001 Corolla. But still really good in my 2006 Prius because hybrid runs cooler in the engine compartment

One tip for hybrid owners I read..... to remain comfortable whilst driving in the colder months...... set the temperature in the car to your comfort level meaning the car engine will be running more then on a warm summer day, BUT when you are comfortable turn the heater off and manage with the heat built up in your carbon space. During that time the car engine will not be running as much so you will be using the battery more thus getting better mpg. Obviously when the cabin temperature falls too much you have a choice to put the heater back on.

I had the same problem, on my car it was the rear sway bar bushings. They cost about 10£ or so and are easy to replace. If you drive up on a set of wooden blocks with the rear tires you should be able to check the sway bar for play. It will be stiff if jacking up the rear since the drop of suspension will lay weight on it.

This has to be due to wear in rear suspension components. Maybe get it on shaker plates to look for movement.

As I said, not all 2AD engines suffered from the head gasket issue. Then if the car did and was under warranty at the time, it may have had a replacement engine from Toyota. If not covered by warranty which would have expired due to age, some may have had the engine repaired! Keep an eye on the coolant and temperature. Now you are this forum, you can search for more info.

I wouldn't about the hygroscopic effect on the fluids, as neither the clutch or braking system will ever got hot enough in normal use for an effect to be noticed. Just bleed the fluid out until you see the new, clean fluid running into your bleed bottle.

You can't really look at it like that, especially if you pump it manually using the brake. Maybe with an vacuum pump it would be different story. I would even run an extra bottle just to be sure that the old oil is out, as it tends to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, so it would be beneficial to get it all out. If you just try to put the exact amount, you will end up on one wheel going let's say 150% of the amount it would need, but the other 50%, and so on.

That Time Of The Year.... again Fully Comp @£207.... That makes 3 years straight and about a fiver variation overall. I'm happy to stay with DirectLine 2sav