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If the system is full, you can pretty much start wherever you want, I usually start furthest away from from the master cylinder, i.e. N.S.R. I can recommend a 300ml Tropicana orange bottle for bleeding brakes. It has a big lid that seals well and is clear enough to see any air bubbles. Get a length of screenwash hose and make a hole in the lid just big enough to pull the hose through so that it is quite tight and makes a seal. As long as the hose reaches the bottom of the bottle, it will always make a seal. There’s no need to buy a bleed bottle, don’t waste money on that.

If you care about the car and plan on keeping it I’d change it. Manufacturers have a vested interest in lower on-paper servicing costs because that helps them sell vehicles. They also have a vested interest in cars making it out of the warranty period but not much further, because then they can sell you a new one. This is why we see them saying transmissions are “sealed for life” and quoting silly engine oil change intervals of 12-15000 miles. Its probably not as necessary on a manual as it would be on an auto but it’s definitely not going to hurt it and is way way way cheaper than having to replace the gearbox at some point.

I get my batteries from Tayna - always good value. This Varta battery is the same as the Bosch one you are considering; it's made in the same factory, just branded differently. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/b36/ If you have a battery charger with a "supply" output you can maintain voltage to your car whilst changing batteries, or you could run jumper leads from another car's battery. To avoid getting in the way of your work in the battery compartment the negative lead can be connected to any convenient earthed point on the bodywork whilst the positive lead can be connected to the positive terminal of the alternator.

Hi All. Prompted by Scotty Kilmer and others on YouTube, have acquired my first Toyota at the age of 66 (me, not the car). Have a Camry 2.4 CDX, 2003, one owner since new, less than 5k miles per year, with all annual service stamps in the book from the same garage. A very fine car. Comfortable, solid, lively enough for me at my advanced age and very pleasant to travel in. I drove Saab 99s for many years and, with the demise of Saab, had to give them up as parts had become tricky to source. Had been looking for a car with the same virtues (solid, comfortable, reliable, easy to work on and a little out of the ordinary). Tried a couple and the Camry seems to fit the bill. It replaced a Mazda 6, which I have to say was a decent car, but the Camry definitely has the edge. Older ones are quite rare in the UK, although Americans love them. Apparently this is due to the fact that it was dearer than its rivals and people here like a prestige badge. I couldn't care less about that, but I do appreciate quality. Exhaust is on its last legs, so it's off to Hayward and Scott in January for a bespoke stainless system (not a performance job, I hasten to add - I chose them because they make everything themselves and offer a 25 year guarantee). With a bit of luck, it might see me out if I look after it.

OK, They thought they would only sell a few, the 1.8 cvt was always expected to be the best seller. So no manual gear box for UK? Strangely, USA get manual 2 ltr box, in the land where many more drivers have only ever driven an auto box.

I’m on my second one of those and I’ve not had any head gasket issues.

Hi I thought I’d give an update...took my Aygo to a Toyota garage where they did a water test, turns out the water is getting several places and they’ve quoted £585 to fix it all. As my Aygo is over 10 years old I’m planning on buying a new car as it’s not really worth spending that amount on it. Seems like everyone I know who has an Aygo has a problem with water getting into the boot, it’s really not good enough for them to be made like this. When you buy a car you expect it to be watertight!

I got one those Bosch jobbies in our 107, it done 6+ years service so far and still doing ok. Had a few Bosch batteries over the years and they all lasted over 5 years so been more than happy.

In the old model Aygo, there is no problem with airbag on just changing the battery. The radio presets will be lost though. I would choose a battery with similar outer size but with maximum CCA cold cranking amps. The original one had a rather low CCA but was of good quality. You can actually even chose a slightly bigger battery. There is place for it on the battery tray. Watch out for the battery height though. We dont want it touching the bonnet and short circuiting. There is a video on the you tube showing you how to do it. Really easy. I have done it twice in our aygo in the last few years.

Have used the Gunson Easibleed many many years ago. Thinking of buying VIZIBLEED ftrom Halfords; Less messy to use, it seems. Wasn't the advice used to be to bleed the nipple furthest away? ie. near side rear?!

Yes, the 2019 RAV4 and Corolla (and, I believe, the face-lift version of the Prius) have version 2 of the Safety Sense system - lots of enhancements to all of the components. Adaptive Cruise Control can now be set down to 18 mph (great in 20 zones) and resume now works from 0 mph. The Road Sign Recognition now uses some sort of AI to mix info from the camera with the speed limit data in the SatNav database to somehow reconcile discrepancies which in my RAV4 makes it actually very usable. When the speed limit recognised is different to the set speed of the Cruise Control, pressing and holding the increase or decrease button makes the set speed jump straight to the indicated speed limit. The Lane Departure Alert system now help to keep you centred in the lane when CC is working and either it can recognise the lane edges or it has decided to follow the vehicle in front. Not everyone likes this feature but it can be disabled in the menus if desired leaving the base lane departure system still working.

Hi there, if it's an automatic then you definitely want to change it, ideally at 50k and then at 50k intervals thereafter (or sooner if you tow or put the car under a lot of stress for some other reason). Ignore manufacturers telling you it's "sealed for life" - all that means is "it'll probably make it out of the warranty period" which is all they really care about. Those units are technically "sealed for life", because when the fluid's all burned up and the transmission goes out that's the end of it's life. For a manual I don't know if you *need* to change it but it certainly couldn't hurt. Always use the manufacturer specified transmission fluid, never anything else, no additives, and if the place you take it to uses the word "flush", walk away. Make sure it's serviced correctly and that the filter assembly is replaced if it has a replaceable filter. If it doesn't have a replaceable filter then the next best option is a double drain and fill. HTH Mark

Sorry, not Auris feedback but the lights on the Corolla are far better than they were on my previous BMW. Though its LED vs Halogen, I used to be in fear of dark driving before but now the Corolla gives me great visibility at night!

No driven belt in ecvt transmission, US version with physical first gear is a standard cvt with belt and pulley and specifically for 2.0 petrol dynamic force engine. In the Uk 2.0 hybrid variant comes with pedal shifters at leats for the highest excell trim, don’t think they very useful because it is all artificial and in real world doesn’t help much. Specs are so different for the different regions, saloon for example bought from Ireland comes with a lot more toys that the ones sold in UK, estates in Europe higher trims comes with 18” wheels too, list goes on and on. Yes sales persons and auto journalists most of the time has no idea what are they talking about and mislead many people, best to do a homework yourself before visiting dealer ships.

Whaa?! You said something positive about the Corolla! [emoji23] #christmasmiracle