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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/2020 in all areas

  1. What's the point of having auto climate control and not using it? Climate control has the aircon on and cleans and dehumidifies the air, and you can have it hot or cold and anything in between. Yaris Hybrid owner here of course, and have had climate control in the last couple of cars. Leave it on Auto, and set the temp that you want. Drove up to Bristol and back from Cornwall yesterday. Temp set at 21degC and returned 70mpg for the 300mile round trip. Mick.
    2 points
  2. We spent the morning at the garage and got to drive a 1.5 MT, a 20 plate hybrid and a new Yaris Design. First off, the new car is lovely and by far the nicest to drive even in the terrible weather we had. Luckily we drove the older cars first so it was easier to give them a fair go. The 1.5 MT was okay but my wife struggled with the 6 speed gearbox which put her off a bit, we thought that the car was a bit slow for a 1.5 but it had only done 30 miles from new. They had the option of white or bright red which looked good. The 20 plate hybrid had dual zone AC but otherwise was the same spec as the 1.5. We found it quite noisy on hard acceleration compared to the new Yaris and didn’t have much go without hard acceleration. It was fine at normal driving and we could live with it. My wife didn’t like the older design gear lever and centre console area. Neither of us particularly like the colour, a darker red than the manual model, it wouldn’t be a colour we would pick and we don’t know if we can live with it? The new Yaris drives better in every way and is a match for a German model. Which is the right car for us, I am not sure [emoji848] The 1.5 will cost us £4K, the 20 plate £6.5k and the new Yaris £12k, plus the wait time for the new car might be 3-6 months [emoji15] Hopefully we can reach a dissuasion by Monday Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. Probably too late to get you before your dealer visit - I have seen some new model Yaris with £2000 off across trim levels, via a broker. So starting at £18300, I think.
    2 points
  4. An auto will be so much better to relax. If u are thinking about biting the bullet and spend 20k on a new Yaris then I probably say it's better to get a 1 year old corolla 2.0 hybrid with 180bhp. That's what I would do unless a small car is a must for your requirement. The other option of not spending so much is to get an older hybrid in a Yaris/auris/Lexus ct200 in top trim.
    2 points
  5. Once one drives a Hybrid Auto one will never want to drive a manual again. No clutch, no gears, no starter motor and no Alternator. What can possibly go wrong ?
    2 points
  6. This is a problem with the shaft seal on traditionally belt-driven aircon compressors in cars. As the Prius uses an electric compressor, this is not an issue. I only needed to re-gas mine because the condenser had cracked (which needed replacement :( )
    2 points
  7. I had fitted a Yaris wiper stalk (make sure it doesn't have auto) on my previous Mk1 - gives VARIABLE intermittent front wipe (but the intermittent rear wipe doesn't work so you have to click the end round 2 stops instead of 1).
    1 point
  8. Hope u get better result for half the price Mick. The standard light in projector is very pitiful, I would say dangerous for country roads/motorway where it's not lit.
    1 point
  9. or uses the car infrequently, in which case cycles of discs rusting and heavy wear on both discs and pads when next driven can eat them alarmingly quickly - as I found out in a Prius when I had a company car for a year and my own car was only used once every week or two. Discs and pads at both ends showed minimal wear at 70k, but then needed replacing in the next 10k. The second set were still barely worn at 163k as the car was in daily use for the rest of the 9 years I had it.
    1 point
  10. In most cars since 2001 the air con compressor are made to operate via the clutch at around 3% capacity all the times and in hybrids Toyota I believe there is an ecu that manages that thing so the gas circulation is warranted to maintain ac working condition even though AC may never been used, I have many examples of that and believe it’s absolutely not necessary to keep ac ON just because of that, you can of course switch ON at least once a month to blow fungal bacteria accumulated inside the air tubes, or to keep windows dry when driving short distance in rainfall. I drive long hours and can dry and clean the windows of my car easily without using the ac at all, just takes a bit longer at the beginning. That info I had from an AC technician but I maybe wrongly understood or he may did so, however it makes sense and very often I feel the smell of a just turned ON AC in the car without been switched ON manual or automatically. Changing pollen filter and keeping fan working all the time is most important thing to maintain the reliability of the car heat/ac system. 👍
    1 point
  11. Just in time!, nice colour blue as well, some of the bug blue shades been iffy over the years, but like that. Enjoy the 'improvements' over your old C1.
    1 point
  12. Get it aligned professionally Richard ,you will never get it right doing it yourself.Go to a place that has a Hunter Alignment machine /computer. They are the most accurate.... https://www.alignmycar.co.uk/
    1 point
  13. I would go for a Corolla hybrid if thinking relatively new. I'd buy a 19 plate. Something in Icon Tech or Design spec. I would probably go for the 1.8. I would have the estate. In Denim Blue or Scarlet Flare! James.
    1 point
  14. It’s shocking how much difference the extra speed makes. I am currently doing my first ever “pump to pump” test on my 1.8. However, I am wondering why, as I don’t think it’s an accurate way of measuring consumption when using the “click to click” method (that most people arguing in the Autocar comment section seem to reference, in order to prove beyond doubt that their wildly excessive mpg claims are true and that their adversaries claims are clearly codswallop). This method relies on the idea that you are able to fill the tank to exactly the same level twice. However, the fuel pump doesn’t make this easy. I’ve noticed you can get quite a bit more fuel into the car if you raise the nozzle in the tank, which you can do by pushing down on the handle and/or rotating it. If the car is parked at a different tilt this would also make a difference. Even worse if you fill up at different pumps the nozzle might be a different length. Plus, is the auto stop mechanism actually that accurate in itself? It will at least have a latency and so if a pump flows faster then more fuel gets dispensed before the mechanism reacts. I also reckon pumps would vary in rate due to factors such as how full storage tanks are, whether other pumps are in use, whether the station owner has adjusted the flow rate dial for some reason and maybe even ambient temperature. Also I don’t trust the odometer, it’ll be inaccurate due to calibration, wheel slip, tyre pressure and wear. My point is that you could easily get a significant difference and as such the click-to-click method (which I’m currently doing) is pointless and probably we might as well just go off the trip computer (as we are doing) and so everything I’m saying is pointless. Thank you.
    1 point
  15. I wonder how many have done the same? I drove a Nissan Leaf for 5 years before returning to an IQ earlier this year. Managed to pick up a 1.3 multidrive which I'll be keeping indefinitely.
    1 point
  16. We are off to the dealer in just over an hour, I will let you know what we decide [emoji848] Thanks for the suggestions [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  17. I would invite you to follow this link https://media.toyota.co.uk/2002/02/toyota-yaris-and-yaris-verso-d-4d/ to read the original Toyota press release about the introduction of the 1ND-TV Diesel engine in the Yaris in 2002. The Diesel Yaris outperforms the petrol 1.0 while being more economical to run. I would have welcomed a Diesel engined iQ as well. It would have been a better proposition than the Aygo with the 54bhp PSA Diesel.
    1 point
  18. Couldn't agree more. I bought my first Hybrid in April 2002, a Gen 1 Prius. I only had it 6 months/12,000 miles, as it got totalled in a collision. I had done just ½ mile from my dealer at the time, and while sitting in the car waiting for a crane to lift it off the island it landed on I rang my salesman to order a replacement, as I was so converted by the super-smooth gear-less drive that I wanted one even if it hadn't been so economical.
    1 point
  19. I have recently bought a 17 plate Yaris Icon 1.33 and I cannot see myself getting rid of it 😀, then again I do look after all my possessions, but I would expect you'd have no problem getting rid of it.?
    1 point
  20. Does your "knob" look like the one pictured below? if so you need part number 33624-09010
    1 point
  21. The new Yaris hybrid will be better than previous one. It has 114 bhp, the 99bhp which I have is lacking in especially country roads and noisy when fast acceleration is required. Although the new hybrid is expensive for a small car, but it has many extra equipments over the older one. The hybrid will probably be easier to sell on later. It depends if u prefer manual or auto.
    1 point
  22. They targeted a disabled person car. No further comments are needed,...
    1 point
  23. I had the optiwhites fitted to the Yaris and to be honest they were still not brillant . I have changed them for https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELTA-HIR2-9012-PX22D-VISIONPRO-150-UPGRADE-CAR-HEADLIGHT-BULBS-3700K-12V-55W/184104731099?epid=8031872835&hash=item2add7f41db:g:D3EAAOSw~w5eCSed These seem better then the optiwhites and have now been in the Yaris for nearly 10 months. I have a Auris as well and have a set optiwhites in there fir over 2 years . I am not sure if the shape of the highlight makes a difference but they seem better in the Auris than the Yaris.
    1 point
  24. I think the TRC button only disables the traction control, I'm not sure if it disables the stability control also. If you needed to take this system offline completely there must be an access fuse or obviously disabling the sensors will take these offline and throw the warnings lights up on the dashboard.
    1 point
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