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Yaris Hybrid 2016


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Yes I watched a Visio clip on YT and it seems to work that way? 
 

No dual it operates both sides.

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Make sure it's not on auto, then press Dual

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8 hours ago, Cyker said:

Yeah, if dual is on, the left and right side have independent temperature controls. Bit of a gimmick in a yaris tho' imho :laugh: 

 

Yep it's a gimmick on the Yaris, never use it. 

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The thing about regasing the hvac I thought it was a sealed system so no gases can escape? I mean if the cools sufficiently I guess the hvac is working as it should?

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You get some natural leak over time - The system is pressurized so it'll sneak out of even the tiniest gap.

Car engine bays are very hostile environments, lots of heat and vibration, which can let minuscule amounts of gas escape through seals and the valves. Even EVs are not immune and they have much less vibration and heat.

I generally consider that if the system is cooling fine, then no need to regas.

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With the time and use any ac will loose some gas as explained above. Generally speaking you should not wait until your system stop working and then after to regas or service, it might turn to be too late, in some cars there is no problem but better safe than sorry. Best to count on ac regas as periodic maintenance and do it very 4-5 years. Perhaps yours has never been done before so now it’s a good time for this.
My first ac service was at 6 years old, than another one 4 years later. Got another year before I will do it again.  
The gf car first ac service was at 8 years old and the ac compressor was noisier than mine and the hvac was very weak, almost no cold air. We had both exactly same cars, model, engine even same colour. The garage told us that mine needed very little gas where hers was less than a half full. Both cars after the regas were having same ice cold ac and quiet ac compressors work. It’s up to you if you want to do it, not a big deal if you won’t as you are saying it’s working fine for now. 👌

Here my first service picture. They added 110gr of gas and 10ml of oil, so basically it needed a service and it was workings absolutely fine prior to that.  image.thumb.jpeg.cab4d5d7ea14ff6c7f3eab4a83c240b6.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.2f5bafb5a727337f50714a1e943dbb52.jpeg

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It worse than that...the molecules used in the new "eco-friendly" (yawn) gasses leech out in between the gaps between molecules of the actual material used for the pipework.

There is absolutely nothing you can do to prevent loss of refrigerant, except to have the system re-gassed (I do mine annually - to hell with "eco").

The eco-lobby need to be stopped. They have resulted in serious problems regarding refrigerants and fire extinguishing equipment with their total BS surrounding "damage to the ozone layer" and other nonsense. They are finding "new" holes to worry about that they didn't see in 30 years of looking, while simultaneously failing to explain why the ozone hole closed up over the Antarctic despite CFC concentration remaining the SAME. It's total BS (I can't say that enough).

A certain European automaker had serious issues with the new gas causing fires. LOL. Junk.

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5 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

My first ac service was at 6 years old, than another one 4 years later. Got another year before I will do it again.  

How much do they charge?

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2 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

It worse than that...the molecules used in the new "eco-friendly" (yawn) gasses leech out in between the gaps between molecules of the actual material used for the pipework.

There is absolutely nothing you can do to prevent loss of refrigerant, except to have the system re-gassed (I do mine annually - to hell with "eco").

The eco-lobby need to be stopped. They have resulted in serious problems regarding refrigerants and fire extinguishing equipment with their total BS surrounding "damage to the ozone layer" and other nonsense. They are finding "new" holes to worry about that they didn't see in 30 years of looking, while simultaneously failing to explain why the ozone hole closed up over the Antarctic despite CFC concentration remaining the SAME. It's total BS (I can't say that enough).

A certain European automaker had serious issues with the new gas causing fires. LOL. Junk.

Don't worry, there's a possibility everyone'll switch to high-pressure CO2 like a lot of the Germans have due to Honeywell's monopoly on 1234yf! :laugh: 

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That engine when it first fires up for a few seconds sounds a bit rattly as if its building oil pressure up.

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11 hours ago, Max_Headroom said:

How much do they charge?

I paid £60 at that place while Toyota official dealers quoted £130. Here the website but they are located in London and Hertfordshire. https://www.protyre.co.uk

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Thanks to you all for good advices on how to deal with the car.

Most of my driving is to work on highway and I do an average around 3.8 l/100 km at 80-90 km/h. So pretty good I guess.

I drive in eco mode most of the time and very light footed trying not to block the traffic.

When going from electric to petrol mode I do feel a little shaking not much but it’s there and mostly when driving light footed in eco mode. But that should be normal.

But I tend to feel a little bit of shaking around 70-80 km/h and when the needle passes eco on the eco meter. The shaking seems to stop when I release the gas or gets further up the eco meter. It’s only occasionally. Can I do any kind of tests to see if it’s not the car which needs attention? 

Thanks!

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You can try driving in normal mode instead of eco and be more gentle on the accelerator pedal. Efficiency won’t be affected and you may find it more rewarding and easier on your foot on the longer journeys plus car feels more alive. If you get slight shakes between ev and petrol it’s ok , not necessarily a sign of something needs attention. Sometimes in certainty speeds and conditions you maybe driving on exact border line where the car is switching from ev to ice and because you are keeping it at exact line the car maybe keep going  ev on and off and cause you this slight discomfort. 
In my car happens same at around 40mph on the speedometer , which is around 70km/h 😉

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Yes but the shaking also occurs when ICE is on above the line between EV and petrol mode also around 70-75 km/h.

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The EV mode is not shown in the display but it’s close to the transition line yes

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Well from haven’t seen or test drive the car I can’t think of anything else that can be, except egr blocked, but this usually happens after around 100k miles, 160000km. Is this car been low miles mostly town short trip used prior to your purchase? If yes you can buy a bottle of wynns catalytic converter and lambda sensors cleaner , add to max of 30ltr of fuel and when drive the car for at least 30 min at constant speed of 100km/h or more to make engine and exhilarating hot. Do a couple of fast acceleration like 40-140km/h if within the legal limits just to burn any soot accumulated into the cat and exhausted and see if anything changes afterwards. This thing has helped me a numerous times, it is a really good stuff. But again, you may not needed and your car be just fine. It’s up to you. 
https://amzn.eu/d/gs9vBmT

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The Mk3 should be smoother than the Mk4 so I'm surprised if it's that noticeably shaky - I wonder if it could be something like an engine mount or dodgy spark plug?

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I have made an account in the app MyT but how do I connect to the car? 

Can I get the car to go online using my iPhone? I tried but it doesn’t work.

If possible I would like to get the data from the car transferred to my account in MyT.

Thanks! 

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I think I figured it out, I need to registry my navigation system in the app in order to transfer data.

And the data is being transferred over bluetooth.

I will try that the next time I am in the car.

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Crap, most of the functions are available only for 2019 models and newer.

So not much worth the app for my car at least.

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Does anyone know the tank capacity of the XP13 in particular the 2016 model?

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A XP13 is a Mk1 Yaris Tsport, a Mk3 hatchback is a XP130

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Mine is a XP130

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Regarding use of AC.

I mostly drive with open windows especially during summer time to ventilate the cabin room. The AC remains off.

Only when I start sweating and no air is cooling I close the windows and start the AC. I regular it manually.

I turn the AC off 5-10 min before reaching my home.

Should I always turn on the HVAC (no AC) to ventilate the system regardless of open windows or not?

Any comments on my use of the AC?

 Thanks!

 

 

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