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  1. KPARRIS-JONES

    KPARRIS-JONES

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    Uber_Luke

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    CorollaD4D

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2012 in all areas

  1. I'll have a go at answering your question fella. It seems to me that you want to pointlessly "modify" the clutch of a motor you haven't even bought or driven yet, undoubtedly making it worse to use all because you believe the dual-mass flywheel is less reliable than a solid one. You're asking this, even when you have already had a conversion job done on a previous motor - so one would have thought you might have a clue about how to find out this information yourself! What makes you believe this "improvement" to your car is any more valid or relevant than the EXTENSIVE work KP or Luke have done modify their CTS? You're a touchy, internet forum troll who it seems loves to disagree and belittle people answering your pointless questions on here, most likely because as a man, you are hopelessly inadequate. What makes you think you can talk to people like that after your 7th post? You sir, are the one that needs to grow up.
    2 points
  2. Sure, I knew that already... but reliability over a tiny annoyance everytime for me. Thanks for your help... oh no, wait... "kits probably exist"... you didn't help. Bored were we by any chance 'top poster'? I often suffer from the occasional "Pointless Answer" however you didn't encounter this here - your reaction was unjust and you have slated someone who believe it or not many quite like around here. As a more useful note - how about trying sending a message to "Parts-King". If anyone is going to be able to find something compatible it's him. Two minutes of searching found this Solid Flywheel Tell you what though, being told the engine capacity or code would have been very helpful indeed, but that's what I can give with the little information I have. Hope this helps, KP Thanks for the link KP. Much obliged. I realise my mistake now... I put the word 'Verso' in my search whilst on eBay the other week. Sorted now thanks to your genuine helpfulness. Are you paying attention D4D? That's how you answer a post! Good luck with your piece of crap DMF. "If you fail to prepare... prepare to fail" - Benjamin Franklin. Idiot
    2 points
  3. Sure, I knew that already... but reliability over a tiny annoyance everytime for me. Thanks for your help... oh no, wait... "kits probably exist"... you didn't help. Bored were we by any chance 'top poster'? I often suffer from the occasional "Pointless Answer" however you didn't encounter this here - your reaction was unjust and you have slated someone who believe it or not many quite like around here. As a more useful note - how about trying sending a message to "Parts-King". If anyone is going to be able to find something compatible it's him. Two minutes of searching found this Solid Flywheel Tell you what though, being told the engine capacity or code would have been very helpful indeed, but that's what I can give with the little information I have. Hope this helps, KP
    2 points
  4. This post is designed to give a basic overview of modern Toyota Diesel engines and their commonly troublesome components: How does a Diesel engine work? Firstly Diesel is not as flammable as Petrol. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs to ignite the fuel, but to bring about combustion they require heat. If you put your finger over the end of a foot pump and pump it, your finger will become hot. This is due to compression of the air trapped inside the pump (the air molecules have less space to move about and collide with each other more frequently causing energy to be given off in the form of heat). The same thing happens in a diesel engine: as the piston moves upwards, the air trapped inside is compressed, causing it to heat up (the temperature reached is circa 400 degrees C). Just before the piston reaches the top of its' stroke, the pump and injectors spray a very fine mist of diesel into the piston chamber. The intense heat of the trapped air in the piston causes the diesel to ignite, forcing the piston down and producing the power stroke which goes through the engine via the gearbox / wheels etc etc and off you go. What are Glow Plugs? When internal sensors detect that the core of the engine block has reached a certain designated temperature, or when a certain amount of time elapses, the glowplug relay switches off the "wait-to-start" light. A pre-heating cycle usually lasts for 2 to 5 seconds. The driver then turns the key to the "start" position. The glowplug relay switches off the glowplugs after the engine is running. In some newer cars, glow plugs continue to operate for up to 180 seconds after engine start to keep the engine within emissions regulations, as combustion efficiency is greatly reduced when the engine is very cold. Link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug As glow plugs wear out the vehicle will be more difficult to start, run poorly and produce a white/bluey smoke. Glow Plugs are a reasonably cheap to replace. What is D4D? D4D is Toyota’s version of Common Rail Diesel. The term "common rail" refers to the fact that all of the fuel injectors are supplied by a common fuel rail which is nothing more than a pressure accumulator where the fuel is stored at high pressure. This accumulator supplies multiple fuel injectors with high pressure fuel. Modern common rail systems, are governed by an engine control unit (ECU) which opens each injector electronically rather than mechanically. What are Injectors? Fuel injectors are a key part of modern automotive systems, as they're responsible for getting fuel into the engine in a precise, orderly and carefully engineered pattern. Unfortunately, the conditions we drive in are not ideal. Pollution is in the air, and fuel can be contaminated with water, dirt particles and other debris. Regularly changing your fuel filter (according to change interval in your service book) will help keep debris from circulating. You can also add fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, which may help solve running issues. Doing this at regular intervals of 10,000 miles or so might provide more cleansing than your engine actually needs, but it shouldn’t harm the system. Injector Cleaner can't improve your car beyond its original factory spec. When injectors fail there are generally two approaches to repair, take the vehicle to a main dealer and have the whole set (£1000+) replaced or find a diesel specialist who may be able to replace or repair individual injectors (circa £250 each) after testing. Fuel Injector problem symptoms include, poor starting, rough running, loss of power, black or white smoke. It is generally known that injectors will need attention after 100,000 miles. What is a Turbo? Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbocharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the turbocharging. When Turbo’s are failing they will typically cause the car to have a loss of power, excessive smoke and in some cases a high pitched whine. Turbo’s can often be repaired bya turbo specialists or replaced with a new unit, obviously a repair is cheaper. What is an SCV? SCV's (Suction Control Valves) are used in Common Rail diesel engines to control the pressure of the fuel in the accumulator. The pressure is varied by the ECU by controlling how much fuel the pump feeds into the accumulator, replacing the fuel as it is delivered into the engine by the injectors. Low pressure for the injectors at idle, high pressure at maximum power. Electrically operated, SCVs can need to open and close at up to 200 times per second and if they stick or fail to open properly then poor running, starting and power loss can occur. Sticking when hot is often cited as a cause of hot starting problems. D4D pumps may have one or two of these valves depending on the type of pump fitted, this is important when ordering the correct parts. Vehicles commonly affected by this have the 1CD-FTV 2.0 D4D Engine 2000-2005, found on RAV4/Avensis/Corolla built between these dates. This article SCV's on the RAV4 Forum provides an overview of the location and parts on a two valve pump. These parts are typically £250 to replace + fitting if required. What is an EGR Valve? Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) is a nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions reduction technique used in modern engines, EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders. After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. Symptoms of EGR issues include lack of power, engine hesitancy and then a surge of power followed by black sooty smoke. A fall in fuel economy may also occur. On most Toyota engines the valve is easily removed and cleaned, a dealer will charge an hours labour to do the same job. If the valve fails it will cost around £300 to be supplied and fitted by Mr T. If the vehicle is used continually then carbon clogging could eventually lead to head gasket failure on AD engines, please review the attached document to see if your car has one of these engines.AD Head Gaskets.pdf A simple method of trying to keep the EGR valve clean is to drive the vehicle (once warm) hard by bringing the revs near to the red line, this will result in black soot leaving the exhaust, continue this until the soot no longer appears. This should be a weekly event. This is also known as an Italian Tune Up. Personally as my 2.2 D4D Verso is out of warranty i clean the EGR every 10k, this a superb guide http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=106241 What is D-Cat? D-CAT (Diesel Clean Advanced Technology) is Toyota’s version of a diesel particulate filter (DPF) which is a device designed to remove soot from the exhaust gas of a diesel engine. The soot created by the engine is burnt off during the regeneration process, this process uses fuel which is added by an additional injector, this additional fuel usage reduces MPG when compared with vehicles that dont have a DPF. The regeneration process occurs at road speeds higher than can generally be attained during urban usage ,vehicles driven exclusively at low speeds in urban traffic will require periodic trips at higher speeds to clean out the DPF. On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases. With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 10 to 15 minutes at 40MPH+ to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed. If the DPF doesn’t regenerate properly eventually a warning light will be displayed and the vehicle should be taken to a main dealer. Continued usage past this point may destroy the DPF completely so it must be replaced, this will be very expensive (£1000+). DPF Continued If your car is type approved and registered after the date below it will have a DPF to meet the EU Emissions, things can get very complicated here. Vehicles are often built long before being registered, so you could purchase a 2010 car that was a 2009 model. Its important to ask what model year your car is and which emission standard it meets. Its possible to be driving a 10/60 or even an 11 Reg thats not Euro 5 (V) if the car was built long before being registered. Euro 5 (V) Emissions Standard Commenced - September 2009 If you only drive low mileages in town do not buy a Diesel with a DPF. A Petrol is more suitable. Modern Diesels are very complex machines, following manufacturer servicing guidelines is essential as is using the correct oils, fluids and drivers checking levels frequently. The issues mentioned above are not restricted to Toyota's, all manufacturers have these issues and probably more of them. Hopefully this is useful to people Please PM me if any of this requires amending.
    1 point
  5. thank you guys for the back-up there. ok i say many controversial things on here (the t-sport being pants springs to mind) but i ALWAYS try my best to not disrespect anyone and to at least be polite even if i disagree with a post. with regards to the solid flywheel conversion: i considered this for my own car however it was either luck or fate but at the parts shop a guy asked if i was buying a solid conversion and i said yes. he told me how his car had a solid conversion and the bearing on the input shaft failed (from what i remember) and this was due to the solid flywheel not soaking up the added vibration from the diesel engine. his gearbox subsequently needed a strip down and refurb. looking back i'm glad i went for the DMF (as many on here advised me), car is smooth, clutch is nice and light and drives smoothly. this guy slating me and KP and anyone else with modifications to their car is probably suffering from some kind of mental inadequacy, hence why they are trying to throw their weight around on the internet, keyboard warriors i call them hehe :)
    1 point
  6. I think some refer to the high speed EV-like mode as warp stealth warpstealth link.
    1 point
  7. Just remove the posts that aren't relevant and alter the offensive ones, may as well salvage the useful info in it. KP
    1 point
  8. In the UK the test is not difficult in anyway. YET. These small changes were just to appease Eurocrats & delay the big changes that we can not bring in. Jan 2010 changes to needing 'class 7' tests for some vehicles like 110 Defenders just never happened. http://www.ukmot.co.uk http://www.nidirect.gov.uk/your-mot-certificate 45 minutes and you attend a Private Garage and have your vehicle checked that it meets a Minimum safety standard £54 but can be less. Car is over 3 years old before first test. 15 minutes to fix anything minor & a part retest within 24 hours on some items or a retest on bigger fail problems. Some places charge half fee others waive this charge. Usually depends if the Test Station does the remedial work or yo take it away to have it done. Cars from before 2001 do not really even have problems in meeting Emission standars, cars after 2006 have no excuse for not meeting them. Just present a safe vehicle. **you can still get 'Daytime Only' MOT's in the UK** (thankfully) Tyre pressure monitors will not be getting checked on vehicles untill they are 3 years old, so that is after Jan 2015. By then expect to be on Euro 7 engines and then we will be getting plugged into a ECU. New cars in the UK from Nov 2012 must be fitted with Tyre Pressure Monitors. Now just a few extra things light Malfunction Warning lights, Brakes & brake systems, Basic checks for corrosion, steering/suspension/tyres/wipers/horn/speedo/seat belts/towbars/wiring/lights/emissions with a wand up the exhaust a few other things and you are good to go. A car that has had even basic maintance or at least been checked over before a test flies through. Northern Ireland which is still Britain has its own test & fees done in Government test stations, Funnilly it should take t least 30 minutes but you can be through in 15 minutes. Motor Bikes even quicker. What Europe will or want to bring in will really put Vehicles off the road and stop any form of Customisation & Modifications. Thankfully we just for now got this little tweeks to the current MOT system. Rest easy. Rule Britania. When the Machine can plug into the car & then tells the Standard Manufacturers Specification from the factory, Weight, Body, wheels/tyres, body work, power/emissions & accepted standard for age, then we are all stuffed running cars that are older. It can not effect cars before that that can not be plugged in. Euro 6 engines will start to change that & by Euro 7 times you can expect your Twin Air & electric motor to need to perform as it left the factory. That can not come before 2015 & if the test is done at 2 years old the first cars being done that way will be in 2017. *If your vehicle is not standard spec still then VOSA/DVLA can know if your insurance does not cover the vehicle if you do not have insurance for a non standard vehicle. Even the real mileage of the vehicle will be known so no Cheap Insurance for 4000 miles a year, because they will never know. (same as now, but they will know automatically through the inspection) European & Scandinavian Governments can not believe how lax the UK is to testing & insurance, they have wanted the UK to be stricter for decades now. Pilot Schemes are being done on Motor Cycle test stations now and were being done 3 years ago.. Bike on a hysraulic table, Computer logged in for test, fixed web cam & portable cam on & tester carries out test. Anything out of the ordinary, Performance exhaust type thing the VOSA person on the other end can be alerted and give an opinion or check a database. (i had a bike that ended up getting tested during part of the Pilot Scheme and it was failed on Modified Braking system untill Yamaha provided a spec sheet to show it was a Limited Edition basic spec grey import. Yamaha Tricker that had 2 front caliper mounts on the fork legs but only had a single front disc.) 1984 is coming maybe in 2017 george
    1 point
  9. sorry for attempting to provide you with some proper advice and share my experiences, it won't be my gearbox that could fail. to answer your question yes those SMF conversion kits exist and yes i know where you can buy one, but since i'm not very bored at the moment i won't tell you. good day. :)
    1 point
  10. Sorry to sound like an old bore, but if you're asking about the Blue Vision bulbs, it sounds like you're looking for bulbs that look pretty rather than those that give out most light. Be aware that all of the blue tinted bulbs give out less light than a standard bulb, because they have colour coating on the bulb. If you're really desperate to put looks over function, then there's nothing wrong with fitting these bulbs - they are the same wattage as your standard bulbs, so won't put out any more heat - but I personally want my headlights to put out as much light as possibe - because that's what they're there for.... I always swap my headlight bulbs - but I go for the best light output possible. I always go for either Philips Extreme Vision or Osram Nightbreaker as these consistently come out top of the various tests. They put out twice the light output of standard headlight bulbs - but only use the same power so they don't genereate any extra heat and are completely safe to use in plastic headlghts. They also put out a very white light which I find is much nicer than the standard yellowish bulb - but they give out that white colour naturally without using a tint on the lens that cuts down light output.... As bulbs and tyres are "disposable items" as long as you fit branded bulbs that comply with EU specifications and are the same wattage as standard bulbs, there wil be no issue with the warranty - if you are really worried, as Geoff is above, and you do have an issue with your headlights, you can always put the original bulbs back in before you take it in to the dealers.... (Geoff - If you have some condensation inside your headlight, on a dry night when you're taking the car out for a reasonably long run (30 mins or more), open the rubber seal around the bulb to vent it and drive around for a while with the lights on. This will generate heat inside the headligth and vent any consendation into the engine bay. Then close the rubber seals back onto the headlight to seal them again and you should find the condensation is lessened or removed....)
    1 point
  11. Hello all. I'm looking to buy an '03 Verso D-4D. It has 100K on the clock, but looks in pretty good condition. The only thing that worries me is the dreaded DMF (dual mass flywheel). I've already had a Legacy with a DMF which I had converted to a solid flywheel (and new clutch kit). Question: is there a DMF conversion kit available for the Verso D-4D. If so, who supplies these? (links if possible) Any info is very much appreciated. Cheers!
    -2 points
  12. Sure, I knew that already... but reliability over a tiny annoyance everytime for me. Thanks for your help... oh no, wait... "kits probably exist"... you didn't help. Bored were we by any chance 'top poster'?
    -3 points
  13. Sure, I knew that already... but reliability over a tiny annoyance everytime for me. Thanks for your help... oh no, wait... "kits probably exist"... you didn't help. Bored were we by any chance 'top poster'? I often suffer from the occasional "Pointless Answer" however you didn't encounter this here - your reaction was unjust and you have slated someone who believe it or not many quite like around here. As a more useful note - how about trying sending a message to "Parts-King". If anyone is going to be able to find something compatible it's him. Two minutes of searching found this Solid Flywheel Tell you what though, being told the engine capacity or code would have been very helpful indeed, but that's what I can give with the little information I have. Hope this helps, KP Thanks for the link KP. Much obliged. I realise my mistake now... I put the word 'Verso' in my search whilst on eBay the other week. Sorted now thanks to your genuine helpfulness. Are you paying attention D4D? That's how you answer a post! Good luck with your piece of crap DMF. "If you fail to prepare... prepare to fail" - Benjamin Franklin.
    -3 points
  14. I know you are... but what am I? At least I'm not wasting my hard earned cash on ****y boy-racer upgrades. Grow up son!
    -3 points
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