Leaderboard

1. Have now had a chance to consult the repair manual. There IS a fuel temperature sensor, and it's a part of the fuel supply pump. There are two ways of checking it's ok - first at the sensor itself (resistance reading), and secondly at the ECU end (another reading). You need to be a decent auto-electrician to tackle these checks. The ONLY reason I have mentioned this is that these items have been known to fail on other vehicles, and they are an obvious check. But so for that matter are other temperature sensors: apart from the fuel temp sensor (THF), there is one for the water (THW) and one for the air intake (THA). Presumably all three affect how the engine will run/start. 2. BUT, you don't need to take on all this detail. If you took the car into the dealer with the complaint "won't start when hot", then it is up to them to diagnose the fault, and fix it. From what you say, replacing the battery and s/motor haven't effected a fix. That being the case, I would go back to them, and let them proceed further, BUT make it clear that your pocket is not bottomless, and that the fault will need to be reliably sorted before you make any further payment to them. Ask that they give you their new diagnosis before repairing, together with the costs involved, so you can authorise. When it is sorted (and they have fitted additional parts A,B,C...), let them know that you will need to run the vehicle for a day or three before signing it off. Do NOT sign off the repair ("untested" or otherwise), but if a signature is required, then add wording something like "Conditional upon satisfactory road testing, between dd:mm:yy and dd:mm:yy" (which must be over several days). If all works out well, before you pay any monies to them, tell them that you are looking for a significant financial gesture over the battery and s/motor, which was, in your opinion, their incorrect diagnosis. If they are difficult, then inform them that you will be seeking an independent inspection from AA/RAC/..., and (if necessary) involving Trading Standards. _______ I say a lot of this from some bitter experience. Toyota Service, for all their merits, do seem to be more than happy to simply replace everything in sight when a fault occurs, in the hope (often fulfilled) that somewhere in all the replacement the fault will be swatted. This isn't always good enough. Chris

Warranty on the replacement engine is for one year.. You still have the balance of the 7 year extended warranty if applicable.. Take it back plain and simple.. If no joy at the dealer contact Toyota GB without delay !!!

Hello Steven - welcome to TOC

Haha just got that invincible wheel off eBay! Keep the original as a spare!

Corsa seats are terrible! SWMBO gets hire cars from Enterprise regularly. They have Mitsubishi Colts aswell which are woeful. The 1.2 is well underpowered. The 1.4 is not too bad. Take the Rav and if it happens to stop near Morley (M62/J27) give me a bell and I'll come to your rescue :-)

Yes, welcome! Looks like another hint that an ECU error/fault light might be thrown up after something is simply disturbed - e.g. EGR cleaning, or actual blanking - and running conditions change. Where this happens, it would be worth disconnecting the battery for a while, to zap the history. Q: I have read that mere battery disconnection is sometimes not sufficient to erase log history and settings, and that some ECU's have a short-term memory backup (e.g. a capacitor) that is designed to preserve memory during short battery disconnections. The suggested answer has been either to leave the battery disconnected for 30+ minutes, or, having disconnected it, actually to short the battery leads together to kill any residual supply. I'm hesitant to advise the 'shorting' option, just in case something somewhere wouldn't appreciate it. (? Short via a current-limiting resistor, eg 100ohm ?) Any authoritative advice on this, anyone? Chris

I'm a relatively new owner of a T180 so I can't vouch for the reliability in the same way as the other contributors, however these were the main reasons I made the purchase: - spacious and practical (5door) - got a good spec model with sat nav, bluetooth, sunroof, keyless entry etc - good on tax and insurance - better mpg than my previous car - cheaper servicing costs than VW/Audi/BMW - cheaper outright cost than equivalent VW/Audi/BMW with similar spec - decent BHP and especially torque - wanted a Japanese motor Of course, the Auris is the antithesis of flashy, and has none of the brand/image factor of Audi A3, VW Golf or BMW 1-series equivalent diesels. But I like owning something a bit different, and I think many people are quite surprised by the performance. I've always had good treatment by Toyota and so I wanted to continue with a Japanese motor. I did read some of the comments on this forum before purchasing, particularly regarding MPG. When I bought mine I was achieving approx 30-33mpg around town and 33mpg on motorway runs, so pretty crap really. However, having recently fitted a Lindop tuning box from PartsKing, the MPG has increased to 43-45mpg around town and 48-49 on motorway runs (plus a little additional power), so i'm very pleased with this. I think to be getting this kind of MPG from a car with approx 195bhp and >450Nm torque (obviously with box fitted) is great. I've only driven petrols previously, so couldn't imagine getting this sort of MPG from a car with this much power. Time will tell whether any of the major problems listed by others will arise, but so far so good (touch wood). Given the Auris with the tuning box was cheaper than an equivalent basic-spec 120d , I'm not regretting the purchase. Oh and if anyone is interested, the insurance increase on a box being fitted was <£50.