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Your post is fine. From your profile you have a 2013 IQ. Service intervals are either every 12 months or 10,000 miles - whichever occurs sooner. So if you're doing less than 10,000 miles in a year, servicing should be done on an annual basis. If your doing more than 10,000 miles in a year, servicing should be done every 10,000 miles. The majority of Toyota dealers operate the Fixed Price Servicing scheme - see http://www.toyota.co.uk/service-and-maintenance/car-servicing Intermediate services and Full services occur alternately - ie Intermediate 12 months/10,000 miles, Full 2 years/20,000 miles, Intermediate 3 years/30,000 miles, etc. Advantages of using a Toyota dealer - especially when the car is within its new car warranty period: * warranty is maintained * they have access to the latest Toyota service bulletins, so can carry out updates to your car * warranty work can be carried out at the same place * you maintain a Toyota service history which, if you wish to make a goodwill claim for an outside warranty repair, is more likely to be successful Disadvantages * may be a bit more expensive If the car was bought used and came with a Toyota Approved Used or Toyota Extended warranty, you have to use a Toyota dealer for servicing to maintain the warranty. Advantages of using an independent VAT-registered garage * may be a bit cheaper than Toyota dealers Disadvantages * in the event of a warranty claim, you may have to prove it has been serviced to the required standards * cannot do warranty work * don't have access to Toyota service bulletins, so cannot carry out updates to car * you lose any chance of a goodwill contribution from Toyota in the event of a repair outside warranty

Ok so you have a 2.2 2AD-FTV 150 bhp engine, now I have only ever seen P0069 once before and it was due to a misplaced plug, basically after some engine work the plug going to the MAP/Turbo pressure sensor ( fitted to the left if the intake manifold as you look into the engine bay ) was switched with a plug going to the PAS pump sensor which is right next to it, the car would start and idle fine but EML was on and when driven the car was flat like turbo was not boosting, swapping the plugs around put the light out and fixed the issue immediately ( took a while to find it though )

Yes 30554100 is your software version with the latest version being 305B7000 if your profile info is correct as a 2006 2.0 UK 1AD-FTV Yes my profile info is correct. Is the newest version related just with new SCV or has other improvements as well? I mean is there any point to update it? 30554100 is a really old software version 305B7000 Includes quiet a lot updates for: P0088 & P0093 Misdetection issues P0400 EGR issues Rough idle, black smoke, excessive cold start rattle Excessive oil consumption Along with many others The latest update along with the modified SCV valve allows the car to increase the cold start fuel pressure from 50bar upto 100bar to prevent future cold start issues this only possible with the modified valve and updated software, any other combo i.e. new valve old software/ old valve new software will still only be able to use 50bar.

heck the length of the chrome bit. The new one is longer. And also the new one has a 1/4" washer on it...... Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

Best get your car booked into Toyota as there is updated ECU software to be installed along with the modified valve, otherwise the valve may not operate well for long, you will need minimum software version 302v0000 I don't know if my SCV is modified or not. How to recognize it? In Techstream/ Health Check Results I see Engine and ECT- Calibration 30554100. Is this software version? Yes 30554100 is your software version with the latest version being 305B7000 if your profile info is correct as a 2006 2.0 UK 1AD-FTV

If it looks like the one on the right it's been modified... Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

Imran, Thats what I asked you to check is the rubber / plastic washers. They hold the cables in place it could be that the bracket is loose. you need to check both ends

Thanks, but I had the ecu update done at the same time..... It was Toyota who fitted it..... Sent from my GT-I9300 using Toyota OC mobile app

Best get your car booked into Toyota as there is updated ECU software to be installed along with the modified valve, otherwise the valve may not operate well for long, you will need minimum software version 302v0000

Leaving some of those silica gel packs or a bowl of coffee/rice can also help lower internal misting by soaking up moisture in the car.

Shutting the vents also reduces condensation

I have had ice on the inside, then I started to shut the vents putting the switch to internal airflow when it gets cold. This seems to cure it, although when it was covered in a foot of snow the inside was clear.. Go figure

Some moisture would probably have collected inside due to leaving the windows open. Best way to demist is to use the air con with some heat.

t-spiritpete...good luck with the op and for the 80k cycle ride.

Here is the info for all you need to know about the drive shaft etc. Regards Pete. PS I'm going into hospital tomorrow for a repair job on my lower back so hopefully I will return soon! Just done an 80k cycle ride up to the hills of east Cheshire and had really windy conditions but I just needed to do it for me. ;) PPS. Anyone got a .pdf of the lower spine just in case the surgeon has lost his one DRIVE SHAFT & PROPELLER SHAFT.pdf

First of all find yourself another garage - it just defies belief that a failure to switch off the engine is related in any way to the starter motor or fuel system. It just demonstrates a basic lack of knowledge of motor mechanics. Just as an aside - don't use use lubricants such as WD40 in lock barrels - it just encourages the collection of crud. Use electrical contact cleaner to clean out the barrel and if you want to apply lubricant - put a couple of puffs of powdered graphite on the key and insert /retract a few times.

well. i had a look at them two plugs this morning i went to swap them round but one of them seemed to short to reach to the other connector so i deceided that it was most probably in the correct place. so i took off the egr valve and cleaned it which made no difference. i also noticed that the vac pipes were incorrectly connected by some previous monkey working on it. so i was going to come back in the house and post pics of the vacuum pipe routing on this site to see if it was correct or not. anyway i thought sod it and i swapped the two electrical connectors over mentioned by devon aygo and yep it pretty much fixed the problem :) the two warning lights are no longer on the dash and the fault code p0069 no longer comes back so im very happy. the car now runs alot better but still doesnt seem to have the 150bhp it should have, but overall im happy and thank you devon aygo.

I was going to go the satnav/music console option until I found out I had a lemon of a vehicle. That's a point, instead of "Orange Fire" on my Fuelly.com account, perhaps instead I should rename it "Orange Lemon". In fact I will.... I imagine people think I'm bitter. You're right, I'm Bitter Lemon I'm putting very little back into a "frugal" car that only does 30mpg in town (take note Toyota HQ), so have opted for the "navfree" app on my android phone. Works brilliantly and cost me about £1.50 for an otherwise free app but without the adverts.

I would just simply take a high res picture of my wife and blow it up. For times when she's not with me. Lol David

Hi Mark I see your in the UK. I know a lot about the integrated satnav system available in the IQ as i have done lots of modifications to them to male it accept video etc. The original is a model called TNS510 later replaced with a TNS350. The first one has a single CD player and USB. A IPod kit has to be bought separately if requited. It has bluetooth for phone and ipod etc with limited functions but works well. The satnav part has a European map but does not shop road speeds or Traffic camera's. the TNS350 has no CD but has road speed and traffic cameras. The units can be bought from Toyota but are £1500. You can see them on Ebay for around £400 but it doesnt stop there as you then have to buy the top cover which id in 4 separate sections screwed together also a mic and cables to integrate the wiring loom etc adding an extra up to £700 on your Ebay purchase and you would have to fit it your self which with guidance is easy. Hope that helps David

Hi again Lou, not meaning to quote the obvious but i suggest you start using your dehumidifier before you fit the door membrane(s) otherwise of course you will seal in any moisture in the door area itself if you fit the spare parts first. I am unsure what dehumidifier you have but another comment is that i would imagine on 12 volt it would use a lot of power from the battery flattening it quickly and if you intend using it on it's own with the car locked up you will have to test first to see if your cigarette lighter socket is live all the time or if you need the aux/ign. on in which case you might not be able to leave the car unattended and your insurance will be invalid if the keys are left in the car.....maybe use it whilst you are driving if it can be safely located? The 240 volt option would possibly work better if that is possible at all? Mike

Thanks everyone for your advice. I have now got a dehumidifier, Mike169. It runs off the mains or off the car battery (via cig-lighter, of course). Where can I get 1 x closed-cell foam door membrane and what is the product number? Where can I get 1 x closed-call foam speaker membrane (product no. #PZ473-90240-01)?

Just found the bulletin which was dated 24/02/2014. It contains snippets such as New wheel designs New Tungsten blue colour Touch 2 & Touch & Go 2 Due to low take up the following have been dropped and will not continued in 2014 MY Park assist option deleted Comfort pack option on Icon deleted All Sport grades incl options deleted

Know what you mean, Back when I first started driving in the mid 90's I had a 2.25 Land Rover petrol and it was a monthly job to remove and clean the plugs then file and reset the points gap. As you say, 30 minutes job in the end. The iQ is just a packaging problem, It's a small car with an engine in it not specifically designed for the iQ. Unfortunately space is tight under the bonnet to do any kind of work. Let us know how you get on if you do change them yourself. :) Craig.

The 1.33 surely is an engine that loves to be revved! From standing start if you take her up to 6000 rpm in first and second and third if you have enough clear road to do so it is amazing how fast it pick up its heels. Or even doing a steady 40 in 5th or 6th, drop it to second gear and she loves to overtake. NB: All obviously safety permitting and the speed limit allows you to do so safely :)

Re the 1.3 vvti manual and the tight engine and not great fuel consumption or not nippy enough for UK NSL's etc. Sounds like it needs driven normally now the newness is off the tyres, brakes, suspension and drivetrain, give it some revs, it does not have an engine needing grannying and running in. While the 1.0 Multidrives can be more economical, and difficult to get poor really poor consumption from. Surely you buy the iQ3 rather than a iQ2 because you expected more go, well its there if you put the throttle down more. Again just personally, i prefer the 1.0 3 cylinder over a 1.3 4 cylinder. george

Theres loads of ways but the least involved is to simply stall the engine. It's a sticking contact in the ignition switch often resulting from an accumulation of crud or the barrel being lubricated. Give it a good flush with electrical contact spray cleaner.

Not sure that they are stopping production. The reasons cited for the withdrawal are the exchange rates between the Yen and the European currencies (same as with the Verso S and the Urban Cruiser), low sales volumes and forthcoming European legislation. It is conceivable that they may continue with the IQ or a replacement in Japan/US. The Aygo is a European market model, so won't replace the IQ outside Europe. Toyota already have alternatives to the Aygo in the Asian markets built for them by Daihatsu, but nothing else at the premium end of the city car segment.

Yes, my old mini in the late 1970's was great fun. There used to be a car park in Leicester exclusively for short cars, I think it was for cars under 12 feet? However, I didn't like the fact that the floor let in water and you could actually see the road through the rusty floor too!!

The original Mini was slightly longer than the IQ - 3054mm (Mini) as opposed to 2985 (IQ). It is width and height where the IQ is larger - width Mini 1397mm, IQ 1680mm; height 1346mm (Mini) 1500mm (IQ). Just illustrates what good packaging the Mini had 55 years ago.

They say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery so I guess I should be extremely flattered. Jonathan bought his iQ in early 2012. He was so impressed with watching my build on the internet that he decided to imitate my car. As it turns out he lives about thirty miles from me. I have met Jonathan in person at car shows but have never seen his iQ in person until yesterday. He came over to let me install the sequential LED turn signal side mirror lights for him and photograph the job for a DIY. This is the first time our iQ's have been photographed together...

Wow! What a nice pair. (I normally say that at Page 3 lol). Seriously both stunning cars well done both of you, plus you must be quite pleased Taz ;)

I agree with Vox about the marketing of the IQ. I was initially put off by the advertising that showed 4 people quite cramped in and with the front passenger sitting forward of the driver. I was instantly put off ever buying one ---- until I happened to see one and realised that the front seats could have a more usual configuration and that the back seats folded flat too. There is certainly a market for a smaller car as so many "smaller" cars are actually quite big. Go back a couple of decades and they were smaller - the old mini for example.

I wouldn't buy a replacement Smart because the current model was stopped last September and are now only selling "specials" to use up inventory. My wife has a 3 year old diesel Smart that's very intractable, it has hard seats and is damn noisy in the cab. Not for me. Nor is the next generation of the breed, these will use Renault engines and gearboxes. I will say no more about that. My IQ, as I said, isn't as quick, but it's one hell of a lot better, just the seats alone, I don't even notice sitting in it, now that's comfortable. I no longer have to visit a Chiropractor after going over a speed hump and I can hear the radio. at 70 MPH. It's a shame the IQ wasn't pushed a bit more commercially, as I'm sure if more people tried them, loads more would have been sold.

I moved from a Smart to an IQ in 2011 after owning Smarts (3) for 10 years. Two very different cars - the Smart was noisy, cramped and a very bumpy ride - plus dealers are few and far between. The IQ (I've just bought my second one an IQ3) is the most comfy and fun small car I have driven - all the others look like cloned boxes. And crucially, I can fit a full sheet of ply 1/4 sawn in the back and 2 metre lengths of pine - what more could you ask for eh I am just hoping my new one will last for a good few years until another quirky ultra small car is released by someone other than Smart.

Remove the negative battery lead till it can be looked at

Thanks David ... I've never heard that one before 😁😁😉

Biting isn't a problem - I've got teeth too ... granted not as many these days