Leaderboard

Deep Aqua! LOL!

Hi Just thought I would share this with you, my wife has a Toyota Yaris 2006 diesel and its a driving school car and has over 200,000 miles on it about 190,000 miles it has had a new Toyota starter motor due to being noisy and int starting (cant seem to get a patern part as they dont go wrong:-) ) and yesterday it let her down so I tested down to the solanoid cable and there was a switched 12v from the start key, so firstly I suspected new starter motor faulty then I checked the ground on the engine and with one meter probe on the battery - and the other to the engine metal and it raised to 12v when they start key turned. So I pulled the left side plastic panel next to the front left wheel to access the gearbox and the battery to engine ground and it looked like the connecter was corroded due to no insulationg material. So as my wife needed it for work I found a short length of black 20mm auto leads High power amp cable and a couple of solder large tags and sealed with self amalgamating tape to prevent water ingress. bolted on and tie wrapped on. Job done starts every time now :-)

Well done matey.....im half way through my timing belt and water pump change....just need to put it all back together now..

http://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/dash-camera-101 Should help you out with some answers and what product to go for. Planning to get one too. One mounted up front and one in the back. People in Peckham can't drive at all, don't know how to give way or use the correct lane.

Hi, I have a 2012 model with touch and go unit, on mine the following works:- Set up - Vehicle - Speed Sensitive Auto Locking, set to off.

Hi David, This is my voltmeter. 11.7 volts Yes, my battery starts to be old, I charge it quite often, but it rarely stays above 12 V..

The spirit of this club is unique. A short while ago i got chatting with a man called Tarquin, aka David, an electrical expert. The long and the short of it is we live around 20 miles apart and he without being asked as such gave up a month or so of his time to help me rewire my boat, not for money but as a friend, to me he is a true gent.............................................................thanks David. Mike169

Makes me wonder whether there is a need to have a similar topic pinned, for example, at the start of General Discussion where people can express their thanks to other members who have gone the extra mile in providing help.

Well, I may use this opportunity to thank Ed aka Hirdi for his help. I now have a new set of fog lamps on my E11, which I managed to source, but guidance from Ed with regard to installation. Cheers Ed

That's a good point. Mine also had the updated egr and manifold fitted that made the vibrations ultimately worse.... Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

My first 2009 IQ had no vibration problems, or my previous Aygo (same basic engine) for that matter, up until I traded it in in 2011. My next IQ , which was the updated 2011 model has never had a vibration problem. The lack of power and clean pickup at low speeds is due to the well known EGR troubles of the earlier models, perhaps this also has an effect on the likelyhood of rough running as the engine builds up deposits etc, with age. They changed quite a bit from the first models to the second generation ones (2011 on), the redesigned EGR valve being one example of this.

Well, it depends. I have a PAYG contract which gives me up to 20MB a day for 20p, but 20p/MB thereafter. Usually I load a route before leaving home, so it caches the route maps and uses very little data. Even starting away I usually use less than the 20MB, but I am aware of the useage and usually turn the nav/data off once I'm in territory I know, like back on the main road home. A couple of months ago I was away overnight and the next day I left my data on (which included e-mails, a bit of browsing and some background syncs) and used the nav for a rather tedious couple of hours (prob 60-70 miles) at the start of the journey home. I later found I'd used 30MB for the 24 hours, so a couple of £, but not all of that was nav. (Given my car's fuel consumption it's usually cheaper to pay for data than get lost ) If you pay more for data it'll cost more of course. On the other hand a couple of years ago I was on a contract with, I think, 500MB a month included, in which case it costs nothing extra until you go over that. I use this particular PAYG with my occasional nav use in mind - I think it is cheaper long term than having a monthly fixed contract (I hardly make any calls or texts). Back to your question though. I honestly can't say with certainty, and Google do change things periodically which can throw a spanner into the works. Best guesstimate for 50 miles return from scratch (given that the return should have the maps already loaded) 15-20MB. Usual disclaimers, etc, :P

Are we noticing this on a manual version only? Last year my local dealershipi that i know most of the people there on a friendly level. The service manager saw me in the car park and said that the dealers have had a communication that there is a clutch problem that has been high lighted and asked if i had any juddering or vibration. I said mine was a multi-drive. He said no known problem with those. He offered to have the car repaired free if i was experiencing a problem. David

What happened with this issue, how did it get resolved ?

Excuse me Waqar for updating on your behalf. This may help others in the future. Waqar may have found the cause of the pre-detonation on his car. He basically checked the connections of his fuel injectors after hearing a clicking sound. He found fluid around the injectors and cleaned them. I think he mentioned the connections were also wet, but Waqar can correct me on that. Also there was problem connecting the plugs to the injectors on three of them, due to the little gasket deteriorating in the plug. The connector plugs were cleaned. Waqar had called me and I said to see if anything was bent or obstructing the plugs from clicking home. After everything was clean Waqar reconnected everything and ran the car. He noted an improvement in the idle and the performance. The pre-detonation has reduced. There are a few things to do like new 'O' rings and gaskets for the injectors. Waqar was on the right track regarding the lean mixture cause the pre-detonation and he may have fixed it! Time will tell. Waqar, once again I apologise for posting this. Konrad

Hurrah for enjoyable driving Suzanne ! :)

I have had automatics and enjoyed driving them, but I have gone back to a manual out of choice, I actually enjoy changing gears!! I previously owned an IQ 1.00 and managed to get about 54 mpg with a mix of urban and some longer runs. I now have an IQ3 with the 1.3 engine and love it! I am getting about 47mpg but I do put my foot down more in this car as it can really go!!! The 1.3 manual is a much more enjoyable drive than the 1.00, it feels more like a "proper" car. In short, I have rediscovered my love of driving by switching from the IQ 1.00 to the IQ3 ........... great fun

I had same symptoms and exact same error code. Thinking it was going to be a big job so until I had time to look at the problem I managed to continue driving it around not exceeding 2000 RPM and switching off and restarting when it did happen. (whilst I was doing this I had noticeably better fuel economy) My mechanic friend who diagnosed it for me told me that the diagnostic report "P1250 Turbocharger System Malfunction" could be anything on the turbo system (including vacuum sensing valve mentioned by anchorman) but my friends best guess was the turbo wastegate was sticking creating overboost. Not wanting to go straight in and take off the turbo, I took off the intercooler to get better access to the turbo. Undid the 2 bolts attaching the wastegate actuator, and worked the linkage to make sure it was free then lubed the moving parts and put it all back together. Sorted all back up and running with no problems in an hour. See the photo of actuator and linkage I have circled the areas I lubed. If the error reoccurs and depending on how long this quick fix lasts, I will replace the actuator if that doesn’t fix it I will take out the turbo and look at the actual wastegate flap. Hope this helps.

Firstly, what do you mean 2 errors? P1250 is one of those codes that pops up now and again but isn't listed in the standard code lists for the RAV. I think it is telling you that there is an "over boost" condition. In this case you should check all the vacuum hoses in the turbo circuit and then turn your attention to the vsv (vacuum sensing valve) which is located just to the right of the intercooler as you look under the bonnet (between the engine and the air filter). vsv.pdf vsv_test.pdf Have a look at these and let us know how you get on.