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We drive on the left in right hand drive cars, you had many head on collisions Stompe ?

I'll start the ball... Two smart keys Tag with key number Box with locking wheel nut key and card with key number Radio doesn't have a code They usually transfer the balance of the Club Toyota membership (includes very comprehensive AA membership) * Obviously manuals and service book Make sure the wheel brace and jack are present and correct under the front passenger seat (and sealant, wherever that lives) Not sure about leadsThen you need to decide whether you want to buy a spare wheel - some do, some don't * if you already have Club Toyota, call them and they'll tack the balance onto your existing membership

"On Freetronic models, loss of automatic clutch system fluid via the accumulator seals can cause total loss of gear selection. Not monitored by warning light. New one costs £344 + fitting. Owners advised to check reservoir level regularly. People have been told the automatic actuator is faulty and it needs a new ECU costing £1,500." http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/toyota/yaris-1999/?section=good So faulty seals seems a likelihood.. And a cheaper fix than above...

You mean they drive on the left, same as you, which is what Duffryn said.

I want one key that will operate my car, garage, home and office, now that would be one 'precious' key! so would a burglar! If I lose my keyring the burglar has the same access......I'd just rather have one smart key that did them all

At the end of the day it is probably more to do with car security rather than the cost of manufacturing/programming a key - with programmed car keys being priced at a premium and being harder to obtain, to act as a deterrent. Yes for those people who lose a key, it is expensive - but its been that way largely since transponder keys were introduced in the early 90's.

I want one key that will operate my car, garage, home and office, now that would be one 'precious' key! so would a burglar!

Back in 2003, we bought two new Mazdas. Both came with one remote key and one non-remote key. As we both used the cars, using the non-remote key became a pain. Second remote keys cost £150 each including programming - 11 years ago.

Hi, If its rattling as you describe, when heavily pressing the pedal it sounds like old fashioned pinking. There are several other posisible causes according to the 'books' eg something worn in the valve gear or ancillary device, water pump etc Does it coinside with anything you have changed recently ? wrong type of spark plug is one reason. Could try putting in some high octante fuel and see if that lessens it..

The pedal pad is welded and fixed to the clutch pedal only the rubber cover is available separately, when you say its loose, is it just the rubber pad sliding about or is the metal pedal pad moving separately from the clutch pedal itself? Depending on model the pedal could also be a single piece plastic pedal again with a separately available rubber pad None of the cars feature a hinged pedal pad which would allow it to pivot back and forwards

You'll need to be careful - some ipod adapters will not work on the Sat Nav head unit. Other options are Grom and Yatour - both offered on ebay.

There's a few threads on here about it, most seem to suggest fitting some kit, xcarlink was one, can't remember the other popular one.

Haven't used that particular kit but have fitted and used Parrot 3100 kits in several vehicles. If you're confident at stripping your dash down the 3100 is pretty easy to fit, and the wiring is picked up via an adapter cable (an extra £15 or so) plugged into the back of the stereo. There's a "brain" which needs hidden behind the dash somewhere, and the adapter cable needs routed to this from the stereo. Then the mic cable needs routed from the brain to wherever you fit the mic, and similarly to the screen on the 3100. Fittng some of the cables can be tricky due to space constraints. The units always worked perfectly. You can pair more than one phone (but only one can be connected at any time), and it syncs all your contacts. You can record voice tags to contacts and, although it's a bit time consuming, it works great since it matches your own voice recording - so there's none of that "calling Joe when I said John" malarkey. You can also dial a contact using the screen buttons, or similarly enter a number to dial, or you can use your phone to dial and it still comes through the kit. If you've added a voice tag to a contact, it'll say "John" (in your voice) as well as the ring tone when John calls. To dial "John", you press the big button, wait on a beep, say "John", and it says "John" back to you, and it calls "John". You don't need to even glance at the screen. I assume the kits are now a bit more advanced than the 3100, with multiple phone connections and bluetooth streaming etc, but the good-old 3100 does what it's supposed to, and does it well. As a side note I have an Avensis with built in bluetooth and music streaming and although the streaming works great, it takes about 20 secs to connect every time you switch the ignition on or after a call, so it's a bit annoying if you do a lot of calling, or stop/start driving. If you're thinking of music streaming I suggest maybe looking for some kit which allows an ipod connection as well, since it's almost instantly back to music. Sorry for being long-winded, but hopefully it gives you a better insight :)

Yes, it's still running fine to this day. It was definitely the EGR valve :)

I was looking for a video on the ad head gasket repair and I came across this. its a repair on the 4a-fe engine. watch out for the mileage at the end. not all Toyota's are bad!

You seem to have an unusual fault you could put a blank on the egr pipe to see if the fault stops. When you start the car do you get the orange engine management light coming on then off? only asking in case the bulb has been pulled to hide a pre existing fault.

did any warning lights come on, what's the mileage of the car. Could be blocked EGR valve. maf sensor, fuel filter scv valves I personally would get the person who sold you the car to fix it. did he supply any warranty?

It is possible the fuel filter is almost fully blocked and at motorway speeds it just runs out of fuel.. But a new filter is £15 ... and thereafter you get complicated. I would ask for my money back as there could be all sorts of other faults..

Hi Guys, This is my first post. I bought my 2006 RAV from a lease company late last year, with about 40k miles on the clock. During the limited test drive in solid traffic, I noticed that it had a large flat spot, which I thought might be a turbo problem; however the price was right, so I chanced it. During the drive home, I noticed that there was some turbo boost available, but it came in rather late (about 2800 rpm). At home, I stripped the input elbow off the turbo, and found that the rotor could be freely turned by hand, the bearings appeared sound, and the waste gate could be remotely operated. Back to the drawing board! I read about EGR problems on this site, so I stripped it down and cleaned out a pile of carbon deposits from the EGR valve and the inlet manifold area, and used an industrial vacuum cleaner to ensure that the ports were clear. Performance was now restored to acceptable levels, and this happy situation lasted for about 500 miles when on an unlit road at night, in a tremendous rainstorm, the dashboard lit up with multiple warnings, and the RAV went into limp mode. Since there were no terminal-sounding noises, or loss of function except power, I thought that water might have got in somewhere it shouldn’t, so I nursed it to the next town and disconnected the battery for a few seconds to reset the system. This got me home, but over the next few days, the problem recurred, with a reset lasting anything from 2 miles to about 35 miles. I got my friendly neighbourhood dealership to download the fault codes for me (no charge) and most significant was p2002 – a blocked Particulate Filter. I took the RAV home to look it over and consider the next move. Whilst trying to get a good view of the particulate filter, I noticed a couple of black hoses, about 10mm in diameter, which came from the particulate filter area up to a sensor unit, which is located at the rear of the engine bay beside the diesel injector control unit. I surmised that this was a differential pressure sensor, which ‘looks’ at the input and output pressures of the filter in operation and triggers the warnings if a large enough difference might indicate a blockage. I tried placing a couple of clamps on the hoses to produce a “No pressure difference” signal to the system, but it wasn’t fooled by this - The warnings came on after driving 100 metres. The hoses are secured to the sensor unit by spring clips, and are easily removed without tools. They have colour-coded marks to aid correct assembly. I disconnected them and used a spare bit of pipe to breathe down each one to see if there was a blockage. One of them showed no resistance at all, but the other was completely solid. I set my air line to 4-Bar pressure, and gave each hose a blast for about 15 seconds. When I checked again, both hoses were clear. Since clearing the blockage, the RAV has done about 1750 miles without any problems. It occasionally blows a bit of smoke for a few seconds, but I guess that this is the normal function of the 5th injector. I wouldn’t advise everyone to be so adventurous without knowledge or experience, but in this case, I think it may have saved me quite a bit.