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Will take them out only for the install in order to maintain the good condition :P Still summer weather here as it's +3C so no need to change the wheels yet, but I can show what's inside the box allready. With specs of course ;) Enkei RPF1, front 17x8 ET35 (7kg), rear 17x8,5 ET30 (7,5kg). I can say at this stage that all rims look identical to me. Same lip width and center hole has put on same depth rear and front. As for the fitment, that one we'll find out only after they're installed.

Correct, it's got nothing to do with it. In other words no amount of servicing will compensate for a latent defect in an engine. I don't see Toyota as a benevolent paternalistic figure offering goodwill gestures. Why is it that some Service Bulletins contain the instruction that they are only to be embodied IF the customer complains? How many owners will be fobbed off before they come up against an uncompromising one who is sure of his ground and demands satisfaction? If there's a deficiency they should be upfront about it instead of looking at the cost. As to your comment that FSH is worth its weight in gold when you want to make an out of warranty claim, I know guys in the taxi trade and the motor trade who can get service books stamped without any problem. A few months ago one I know had his VW DSG gearbox fixed out of warranty with such a book.

As far as I'm aware, the mirrors are electrically adjustable and heated - not power retractable. Think you will need to manually fold them.

Any motor car which is loaned or hired to the Policyholder under the Insurer's Motor Damage Claims Service or by a member of the Motor trade while the vehicle specified above is in the custody of the Motor trader for service, repair or MOT Fairly plain english. Copy of insurance certificate also which again confirms this - Section 1, the insured vehicle.

Hi, Many thanks for that, I seem to have a few out in comparison to you Frosty, the ones out are.. electric door switches, lock/unlock rocker and the mirror control.

Just been out to the garage to check mine. With the headlights on, neither stalk is lit. The controls that do light are the electric window switches, the door lock/unlock rocker switch (lit on the lock side only), the ECO switch, the main mirror control, the headlight levelling control, and the steering wheel controls.

If you're swapping the Yaris for another one or something else, make sure you take the intended replacement for a good test drive to determine whether the same issues are apparent.

Hello Mark - welcome to Toyota Owners Club

Which insurer are you with? Most UK comprehensive policies will allow you to drive other cars not owned by you, but only provide Third Party Only cover, unless it is a hire car from one of their approved repairers following an accident you're claiming for. Are you absolutely and totally sure that your policy allows you to drive other cars on a Comprehensive basis? There are some policies that do give Comp cover, but they are few and far between and often expensive. Our insurance certificates with LV specifically state within the first section : Any motor car which is loaned or hired to the Policyholder under the Insurer's Motor Damage Claims Service or by a member of the Motor trade while the vehicle specified above is in the custody of the Motor trader for service, repair or MOT The reverse of the certificate states that the cover is comprehensive including the same policy excesses (in our case £50 for accident or theft) and the same named drivers as on the policy. It will be 10 years next April. When they went under, I managed a team of CV writers that the department (DWP) put into place for when the redundant employees made their claims for benefits. 15 hour working days each weekday plus work at weekends over a period of three weeks up to my pre-booked holiday in the May. With the lease scheme MG/Rover had for employees (started by BMW), the majority of people lost their livelihood and their cars, as the finance company wanted them back asap.

Be good if Clare came back and updated us. It's universally known that I'm a cynic, but I am very wary of negative and/or strange symptom posts from new, one hit wonder members who don't return. The symptoms to me sound like a failing HV battery OR one where the rear vent is blocked and it's over heating - possibly the fan is clogged with dog fur IF they own dogs. The battery could be in warranty and perhaps they had a HHC carried out recently? For a thread to work it must have input from members AND the op. So I'll ask that they answer the questions I asked in my first post back at the beginning of this thread.

I'd like to add that a common mis-conception of new Prius drivers is that they should run on the electric motor in order to achieve good fuel economy. Your comment that you are "driving carefully" leads me towards thinking maybe you are babying the car to try and run in EV as much as possible. If this is the case, you need to stop doing this, because as counterintuitive as it seems, you will get worse fuel economy doing this. Initially, you need to relax and just drive the car normally. If you want to achieve better than average MPG's then just do the normal economical drive techniques. Here are some ideas: Keep your vehicle well maintained Keeping your car well maintained could result in lower fuel bills.Get your vehicle serviced regularly – get oil and air filters changed as required, use the right tyres (for the Prius these must be LRR--Low Rolling Resistance for best fuel economy) for the conditions, and have your wheels properly alignedCheck your tyre pressure monthly - low tyre pressure can make vehicles work harder to overcome road resistence and impact on vehicle handling and braking. It can also speed up the wear and tear on your tyres. For the Prius, most drivers find the placarded 35 PSI (Front) / 33 PSI (Rear) slightly low causing higher rolling resistance and uneven wear on the tyres (wearing excessively on the both edges). Increasing tyre pressure by ~ 3 PSI is enough to overcome both so 38F/36R, but monitor every 2,000 mi and adjust accordingly.Drive efficientlyChanging your driving habits can help improve fuel consumption and general wear and tear on your car. Try some of these tips to help make a difference:Drive smoothly - maintain a steady speed, use the highest possible (instantaneous) MPG reading without straining the engine. Speed up, slow down and brake gently and smoothly (provided it is safe to do so)Adjust your speed early – check ahead, slow down early and maintain a safe following distanceCorner smoothly - don't brake hard for corners and accelerate out of them. Instead, slow gently, negotiate and exit corners on a light throttleMake hills work for you - build up speed before an uphill stretch and go up hills at the highest possible (instantaneous) MPG reading that allows you to maintain your speed. Lift the throttle as you crest the hill and use the vehicle’s momentum to get you over the topLower your speed - travel at 60 mph instead of 70 mphKeep your load down and your vehicle streamlined - take unnecessary items out of the car, remove roof racks/boxes and cycle racks if you’re not using themMinimise airconditioning and open windows - air conditioning and open window drag can add up to 10% to your fuel bill so use air conditioning when you’re on the motorway and A roads, and open windows when driving at lower speedsPlan your journey - a well-planned journey will get you to your destination in the quickest and easiest way - which means less fuel and time wastedOf course the terrain and roads you drive all come into the mix too. If you live in a hilly area (e. g.) you will not get as good economy as someone who lives on the flat and can drive a mix of 30 mph and A roads only. It's just a fact of hybrid life. Hope that helps.

I don't know what this fixation with service book being stamped has to do with cylinder head gasket failure. I remember Honda had the same issue. I could see the point of it if the cylinder head bolts required re-torqueing at prescribed intervals and this was done during a service but otherwise? If the car has been overheating or if the oil & filter has not been changed then this will be self-evident once the engine has been stripped. I once had a Ford car towed into the garage with the big ends gone and the driver insisted there was plenty of oil in it but found out he had only added the oil AFTER the big ends had gone.

People on forums are very well versed with the running of their car and will be checking tyres / lights /levels probably weekly. You have to understand the vast majority of people never look under the bonnet from one service to the next, let alone check tyre pressures or look at tyre depths. Now you may not agree with that but it is fact, some tyres we see have the wires hanging out of them, and have been illegal for months! If the dealer said you need tyres right now then that is clearly not the case, what we would do would be to report them as 4mm, not requiring replacement right now, but would set a reminder for the customer to be contacted again in say 4 or 6 months to measure them. Your dealer will have an idea of how many miles a year you do, however if you are a new customer, your dealer would not know your driving pattern. If it turns out you do 15K a year then your 4mm tyres MIGHT need replacing sooner I tell my team to be completely honest with people, I would sooner get you back in to check the tyre depth rather than have you think you are being ripped off. Tyres are usually a distress purchase, but being honest with people and keeping them informed is the best way to handle what can be a stressful time, especially at this time of year