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Relax Grumpy.....up to date, and freely available copies of Which are all readable in the leathered comfort of your local library .....if it is still open! the problem starts when the librarian hands over all of 2014 Which reports, and everything starts looking interesting (just in case)

I've filled the survey in BUT I now wish I hadn't. The results of this and previous surveys are only available to Which members. So my time is for their benefit. No way I can check despite helping them out.

I decided to tackle my 2003 D4D EGR valve today, after my MPG has dropped from 55MPG to about 45MPG over the last month or so. I wouldn't say i've noticed a drop in power, as there's never really been any to start with. After trying a few remedies (checking tyre pressures, new air filter, fuel system cleaner) I decided to go for it as nothing made a difference, after reading a few posts on here. There are a few posts about the EGR, and one is very good but is for the later engine (mine is the gutless 116BHP 2.0 D) I decided to try and sort it today and it's much more fiddly than the newer EGR valve location. Anyway, I hope the piccies are of some help to someone, they would have helped me. The 1st pic shows the EGR valve location when viewed from the passenger side, with the engine cover and airbox removed. This 2nd pic is with the plastic engine cover removed and airbox hose, cover and filter removed. By taking the airbox out access was possible. After taking the air filter cover and air filter out, 3 bolts are exposed (12mm Heads) undo these and remove the airbox. To remove the EGR itself, there are two 12mm nuts and one 12mm bolt holding it on. There are also 2 coolant pipes which I removed (held on by hose clips) which just seem to be for cooling the EGR valve, as one is an input to the housing and the other is the output. Some water came out, so try and keep the hose as high as you can or bung the hose. The 2 retaining nuts are either side of the EGR valve and the bolt is at the bottom and you'll have to feel for it, as it's not visible from above. There is also an electrical connector, which operates the valve. I've pictured the EGR valve removed and the hole it left, for clarity. To be honest, although it was fairly dirty inside, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be but (seeing as the car now has 136000 miles on it) I cleaned the EGR using brake cleaner and a toothbrush and manually exercised the valve. I put it all back together and whilst I was at it decided to clean the MAF sensor with alchohol cleaner spray. Anyway i've got a few more pictures if anyone needs any more detail. I'll report back when i've drove the car next week, to see if it's any better. If anything i've written doesn't make sense, please feel free to correct me. Sorry to go on but hopefully this will help someone, as there doesn't seem to be much info about the earlier D4d EGR valves.

Yeah, that's a bit vague... can you ask them for some clarification? e.g. do they mean the whistle louder than it should be or is the bearing rattling?

The answer would be no! the bulletin you mentioned above is an old bulletin which has over the years been updated and replaced by the current version EG-0041T-0412 it is in this bulletin that includes replacement of a large amount of parts to fix P0400 that i referred to on the link you gave. Toyota extended the warranty for this up to 7 years/111946 miles beyond these numbers the repair is extremely expensive requireing in excess of 30 parts including EGR's EGR cooler modified fittings and pipes, Intake manifold, Injectors etc all depending on the outcome of over 17 pages of pre-checks & diagnostics the repair is also very labour intensive depending on car, in excess of 8 hours on a Verso and more than 12 on a Rav. This repair costs around £2000 at warranty rates to Toyota so a retail bill for this modification would easily cost £3000 + by the time VAT is included aswell. Toyota bulletins are designed to offer 1 time fixes so sometimes are not the most economical way to fix an issue, P0400 is most commonly caused by a blocked EGR circuit incl intake manifoild or faulty EGR valves, whilst time consuming you can remove the EGR cooler and soak in an Ammonia solution ( at least 12% ammonia in solution ) to remove baked in carbon deposits which can prevent ( for a time ) P0400 form returning assuming the EGR valves are not faulty. I am assuming you have a standard 2.2 and not the 180bhp version and have attached a picture of the EGR setup to show just what needs removing and cleaning. To clean the EGR cooler block/seal one end then fill with Ammonia and leave for one hour then drain and repeat until no more carbon soot is washed from cooler once the Ammonia drains clean flush with water in both directions until it runs clean. After this you need to check if the cooler has sufficient flow to be reused, select a hose/tap that can output at least 24 litres per minute ( check by timing how long it takes to fill a bucket of a known capacity ) then confirm that the valve allows at least 12 litres of water through in 30 seconds if not try cleaning again ultimately replacement of the cooler may be required if through put does not reach 12 litres/30 seconds

Right done a fair few miles on the new brakes ( mtec dimpled and grooved discs and black diamond predator pads ) brake dust has took a dramatic decrease in the amount on the wheels and the cold bite is excellent .... And I have done some spirited (to say the least) driving and they held up fine been no problems even the missus can tell there is a massive difference in response and pedal feedback

In the early days - engines were rebuilt by the dealer and there were some issues. Later, new / factory rebuilt replacement 2/3 engines were fitted - many of these have now covered significant mileage with virtually no issues. Cars with replacement engines are a very good buy. A Toyota dealer can confirm if the engine has been replaced from the Reg. / VIN number.

Starter motor may be on the brink of failing.

Bwaaa! How did I miss this?! The forum won't be the same without you Bob, and I'm still driving around with blue goop in my tyres because of you! I hope you will still drop in from time to time :)

We have a 2012 Hyundai i20, which was bought new. Certainly it has been as reliable as our Toyotas and I would say it is as well built, not necessarily better built. Comparing it with our last three Toyotas - 2006 Toyota Corolla - owned for three years from new, and only warranty repair was the replacement of the tailgate struts due to water ingress at 2.5 years old 2009 Toyota Auris - owned for three years from new, and only warranty repair was the replacement of the passenger side cup holder when it was two years old 2012 Hyundai i20 - owned for 2.5 years so far from new and only warranty repair has been the replacement of the bodyside mouldings in September due to the adhesive failing on the driver's door moulding 2012 Toyota Auris - owned for 2 years so far from new and no warranty work. Don't expect all Hyundais to be built in Korea though - Hyundai, like Toyota, have established assembly plants in Europe to serve the European market. Hyundais built in Europe include the: second generation i10, the first generation i20 5 door and second generation i20 (Turkey); ix20 (Czech Republic); i30 (Czech republic); ix35 (Slovakia). Leaving the Santa Fe, i40 and i800 to come from Korea for the UK market. Sure you'll be happy with the Santa Fe.

Sam you wrote"Upon reading the PDF Tables once more I do see that the Normal Pressure is same for all 3 types (A,B and C) and this is 240 for front and 230 for rear for tire size 215/55R17 94W. Its the Eco pressure that differs significantly depending on whether the type is B or C." I'm thinking that the above quotes for the pressures are not PSI as that would be awfully huge pressures for your tyres unless your driving a tractor that is, when i was in the trade the general consensus was that if there was a doubt about what psi to use then we used to play safe and stick double the amount of the wheel diameter + 2psi,so in your case it would be 36psi all round ..hope this helps you. Ps this was irrespective of the tyre speed rating.

Hi Barry - to be fair, almost all Prius get a (space saver) spare wheel, the main exceptions being those with the sun roof (like yours) and the plug-in. You may like the look of your 17" wheels, but the 15" certainly give a more comfortable ride...

I usualy get around 47 mpg when local, stopstart is one of those things I just let it get on with, rarely turn it off only in a lot of stop and go traffic . One thing about the 1.33, I'm on around 72k miles , never had to top oil up , and just ticks along like a little swiss watch

Try looking at www.toyota-tech-eu select: repair accessory installation manual Verso 2009/02 FMC Installation manual Navigation sysyem Select TNS410 LHD or RHD as required Page 14 shows where and what wire to use

Received wisdom is that blocking or part blocking the grill (different parts on different models) will significantly reduce warm-up times and also give fuel saving in that the thermal load on the engine is reduced because the flow of cold air through the engine compartment is reduced thus reducing uncontrolled external cooling. The internal cooling via the radiator is unchanged.

IQ now sold and gone. Hyundia Santa Fe 4 x 4 purchased Thanks to all an this forum, a truly great forum with very helpful members ! Much better that Hyundia forum from what I can see, However I do believe that the Hyndia make of vechile is better than a Toyota Just my view. After My EGR change messing about two years ago with my IQ I did state I would never buy another Toyota and this stands ! Bye to all x

Mate... Oil seal cost me £15 and 30 min job for mechanic which did it for me. Costed £40 total..... I think your garage is trying to take you for a mug!!

I wouldn't risk an after-market oil seal. The saving would be minimal.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/

yes Grumpy Cabbie it was me who mentioned the Cactus before. I still drive in my IQ until the 5th of december. And that will be the change to the Cactus. I am looking forward but I will mis my little IQ. And Bobkneale I wish you a good drive with your new car and I think sometimes you will mis your old IQ when you have to park in small parking places..

Very good luck with the rest of your life. Bob Positive thoughts Pleasure to have known you David

Already bought a Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel with 50,000 Miles FSH perfect all round £5,000 IQ goes in for new MOT tommorow, I will advertise it for sale next week for £3,500 44,500 Miles No Offers.