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One thing to be aware of with regard to other drivers' frustration is the likelihood of the speedo over-reading by a greater margin than you might be used to. Both Auris HSD and Prius HSD are particularly bad in this respect, so I would guess the Yaris might also be. I suspect some sort of conspiracy by Toyota to make hybrid drivers go slower without realising, and thus achieve better mpg! Although the over-reading is unlikely to have changed your actual speed by more than 1 or 2 mph around the 30mph area, I find there's a weirdly large difference in 'feel' between travelling at 33/34mph (which is really 30mph) on the speedo and an indicated 30/31mph which in reality is high twenties. I suspect I'm not alone in this, as I find the tailgating and dubiously-judged overtakes tend to reduce significantly in frequency when I'm holding 33/34 on the speedo. On the subject of forcing the car to run on the battery, there is a wealth of good, scientific evidence which demonstrates that doing this will make fuel consumption worse. However, I would add that despite this evidence, regular and deliberate use of milkfloat mode does not make it impossible to achieve excellent figures. If the ECU doesn't feel like switching automatically then I'll do a throttle-lift to kick it in whenever I'm in a 30 zone, simply because I like creeping through villages emitting no engine noise or pollution. 70+mpg at the pump over 18 months would suggest this strategy might not be the most efficient, but equally it isn't going to have a disastrous effect either.

That is a picture of your rear windscreen washer jet, the camera is lower down under the Toyota Emblem where the boot release handle/button is. Ahhh! No wonder it wasn't getting clean. I was dousing the wrong bit! I think I must be going senile. Thanks guys. Thankfully it turned out to be something simple in the end - even if it was me!

I had exactly the same problem and after spending a lot of time looking at the vents behind the bumper, checking that water was not getting in via the rear lamp fittings, the tailgate strut mounts and the upper part of the boot surround-the joints and bolt through fittings and fited rubber seal strip etc it was none of these. Went through using talc and sprayed everwhere with water to try and identify the leak source without success. My leaks were from the lower part of the hatch channel either side from where there are body joints each side or the mountings for the rubber buffer blocks. There were no signs of cracking at the bodty joint. Anyway I used Capatain Tolleys Crack Sealer on the body joints and the rubber block mounting and BINGO it was sorted. Captain Tolleys is a thin milky coloured liquid that seeps into a crack and then sets and seals the crack from any further leaks. It may need a few applications but it really works. This stuff is used extensively on boats, which do have a tendacy to leak by the windows, coachroof, bolt through fittings etc and it always works except where there is a large gap which obviously will not seal with this method. Your leak may be somewehere else as this is a problem with the Avensis judging by other posts on this matter where reportedly there can be leaks in many different places but if it is a hairline crack somewhere Capn Tolleys will fix it. Good luck with it -it is really horrible having water sloshing about in the wheel well and sides of the boot!

Edit... this post is to illustrate typical behaviour of the Auris bar graph fuel gauge and also gives some real world m.p.g figures. I filled up (brim full) 20 days OK and the car has been driven probably 70% or so of those days. Mixed road, urban, town centre and motorway. Climate control (air con) is permanently on. These are the "Fuel Bar" readings... Mileage start 0.00, all bars lit. Mileage 149. First bar goes off. Then comes back on. Then permanently off at 153 miles. Mileage 185. Second bar goes off. Then comes back on and finally permanently off at 190 miles. Mileage 247. Third bar goes off. Mileage 300. Fourth bar goes off. Mileage 339. Fifth bar goes off and then on again at 343 and then off at 346. Mieage 390. Sixth bar goes off and then on again, and then off at 393. Mileage 447. Seventh bar goes off and then on again at 450 and then off at 453. With two bars still lit and cruise range showing 60 miles I brim fill again. Fuel taken 42.32 litres (9.31 gallons). Total mileage covered, 458.6 M.P.G = 49.25 Theoretical range based on 55 litre tank, 596 miles.

That is a picture of your rear windscreen washer jet, the camera is lower down under the Toyota Emblem where the boot release handle/button is.

It is the law. You'll find all the different circumstances covered here... http://www.gov.uk/driving-adverse-weather-conditions-226-to-237/overview-226 I guess the only problem with that is how many drivers can judge 100 metres accurately?

I have Toyota DAB fitted in my PIP and the aerial is located on the passenger side of the windscreen at the top. The reception is fine.

I went to the dealership this morning and showed them the damp spot and the photographs of the air conditioning filter. They have given me some special paper to put under the mat when I park the car which should identify for sure whether the leak is coming from below or above. With regards to the filter although they agree my service book clearly states it should be replaced on a full service their service sheets only state it should be inspected. They said that, in fact, it was not too bad. Never the less they have given me a new one free of charge as a goodwill gesture.

You can download the owner manuals (US edition) from this website. Step 1: Step 2:

lol you're in trouble now :) This link might help further understanding of the hybrid system on it's warm up cycles. A common misconception for owners trying to kid the system is to think "aha, I can drive the last mile home on EV and/or electric mode and run the HV battery down to 2/8 bars, as in the morning the engine will be running on the warm up cycle and that extra power could then charge up the HV battery instead of going to waste". This again seems correct in theory but is also the worst thing to do for economy (unless you live at the top of a steep hill and drive down it first thing). The hybrid system had a number of cycles at first warm up and will run the car like a diesel/electric train for the first few minutes of travel, or the engine is running like a generator and the car is exclusively powered by the HV battery - hence reduced power. This link explains it more; http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/160385-no-torque-during-warm-up-charge-of-battery/page-2 It also shows the hidden extensive programming in the hybrid system and why it is better to just drive the car rather than out wit it.

My 2002 Peugeot 406 had automatic headlights and they would switch on with the wipers were activated. If they could manage that then, then surely Toyota could manage it now. One scary note with the Peugeot automatic lights though. I remember turning right onto a busy and dark A road at night (no street lights). There was a car coming to my right some distance off. I pulled out and stalled. When the engine cut out so did all the lights as it was on the Auto setting. I was sat in the dark in the middle of a busy road with no illumination for the on coming car to see. An accident waiting to happen. Started the car up, the lights fired back on and away I went. But it was a dangerous design fault for the lights to totally cut out like that when stalled. If I was on manual headlights they at least switched to side lights if you stalled. Hmmm, I remember why I now buy Japanese? lol

one other thing is to think far ahead when you're going to have to slow down - I lift of the accelerator up to half a mile before roundabouts if I'm doing 60+, especially if the approach is downhill. When braking, it pays to try to get the ECO needle at or close to the bottom of the GEN area *, but no further (pressing the brake pedal harder at this stage adds the friction brakes to the regen braking, and wastes energy that could otherwise be recovered). Obviously, safety and consideration for other drivers needs to temper this quest. [* left of the GEN area on digital displays]

It's particularly crazy when you think the mk 1 & 2 Yaris were best in class in this respect (along with the sliding rear seat that gave better rear legroom than an Auris when you didn't need a large boot). A 2011 Yaris I owned had two glove boxes on the passenger side, another one for the driver, a drawer under the front seat, centre tray, coin drawer and retractable cup/bottle holders up by the outer air vents that you could swivel to keep cold drinks cold. Why they ditched all these things on the mk 3 it totally beyond me - I'm sure it's lost a fair number of sales.

Another couple hints to get the best out of your hybrid; 1, Ensure tyre pressures are spot on. Even 2 psi lower than recommended and it will badly affect mpg's. 2, B mode is not to get better regen as many dealers suggest. It is only for use when going down a long hill. It's almost like an engine brake on a HGV, effectively so you don't overload the HV battery.

One member who had problems with their auto wipers not working correctly found that by disconnecting the sensor, they reverted to standard wipers with intermittent settings - http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/tutorials/article/37-possible-fix-for-faulty-auto-wipers/

I'm sure they work for a lot of people, it's just that unlike many options where you're no worse off if you choose not to use them (like cruise control or automatic headlights), every car I've driven with auto wipers loses the manual control to vary the intermittent wipe feature. I couldn't fault the auto wipers ability to deal with varying rain and spray on a Micra my partner used to have. Once set to my sensitivity preference, and when they weren't operating continuously I just found myself constantly starting to think the wipers should do a sweep, and get ready to manually override them, and just as I made that decision they operated exactly as I would have done manually - they were too good! But they also failed to deal with streaks of water running off the roof, and needed it prod of the stalk. I guess it's as much a 'defect' in the way my brain works, I just know I don't like it and don't seem to be able to get used to it. Auto Headlights Auto headlights is another one I would choose not to use - on a recent Lexus NX test drive, they turned on automatically on a dull afternoon when I went under some overhanging trees, and I noticed someone waiting to turn into the road in front of me momentarily start to move because he (presumably) thought I was letting him out - fortunately, he quickly realised the headlights had been turned on (and the daytime running lights turned off) and only moved about 6 inches - if he'd carried on it would have been 'interesting'! (doing about 45 mph on damp road surface at time)

I get all these points but it's not just about "timing" as such and I agree with Pete that it's probably a "marmite thing" where auto wipers are concerned. I also must admit to being a little sceptical when I found out that they would be on our new Yaris with the specs we had gone for... However, I must also admit to being pleasantly surprised after leaving them in auto for quite a bit over the holiday period and all the inclement weather that that included. I was quite surprised to find that it wasn't just sensitivity (to rain) and timing that gets altered but even the speed of wipe too. For example, there were several occasions on the motorway when we suffered the ubiquitous "wave of water" coming from the side of an articulated truck as we passed it in the outside lane and the auto functioned admirably as it switched the wipe speed to high very quickly for several wipes to clear the screen efficiently and dropping down in speed and time progressively as we passed the offending article... Perhaps there has been some adjustments to the operating parameters in the newer models now? I am beginning to leave them in auto most of the time now if I'm honest and they seem to be doing a great job without me having to think about it...

Daft question, but have you topped up the washer fluid? The pump for the rear sits higher up in the bottle, so when the level is low the rear stops working first. You get quite a bit more use out of the front before the bottle empties. OR The one way valve has stuck and allowing all the fluid to drain from the rear nozzle and tubing back into the bottle, try keeping it going a bit longer to see if it comes through? If it was all leaking out into the rear hatch frame you would notice it coming out of the drain holes and running down the rear bumper.

I'm with you two. Had auto wipers once and never again - unless I have no choice. They're totally useless. I'm sure they work in the workshop when designing the car, but rain isn't as uniform as from a hosepipe or spray gun and thus the autowipers either work correctly (most of the time if I'm honest), work too little (when you actually need them) or work far too often (when you don't). You end up switching them off and on again to reset them more often than if you adjusted the manual intermittent type. Much easier to have a manual intermittent option where you can adjust the timing yourself. IMHO.

Probably another Marmite thing - I'm with Duffryn, don't like them, and annoyed on cars that have it to lose the variable intermittent function, which I use a lot on my T3.

Believe me, you wouldn't want auto wipers anyway - pain in the a**e IMHO! Much better off with variable intermittent function, which I dearly wish mine had.

On the Gen 2 there is no Auto wiper option - when set to intermittent, the inner ring varies the delay between sweeps. The stepped dimmer for the instrument lights is one of the buttons to the right of the hazard switch.

Might not be the easiest thing to set up, but this is certainly easiest way to keep the lens clean See the vid here and a different install with stage by stage pics of the process here.

My '07 Gen 2 T-Spirit didn't come with auto wipers, so I'm guessing yours didn't either. There is a dimmer for the instrument cluster, it's a four or five step push button job not a dial. For the life of me I can't remember where it is, but it is there. As for the screen reflection, that's been a Gen 2 niggle for ages now. Check out www.priuschat.com under the Gen II tab. Our U.S. cousins came up with some interesting 'fixes' for that.

Hi, Welcome to the club... Enjoy

Right guys problem solved. It was my EGR that was faulty, even though it was just 6 months old. Over looked this as I'd only had it installed June last year. Had a new one fitted yesterday morning. Was still a little smokey for a while until I put some wynns diesel system cleaner in the tank and took it on motorway for a few miles. Since then no smoke. Fingers crossed.

I averaged 50 mph over 12 months and 35,000 miles of heavy taxi use. I think the average speed was 12 mph. But if someone is using all season tyres, has a heavy right foot and uses their car for very short journeys in town they shouldn't get less than 45 mpg. If they do, there's something wrong for sure. As you say, if you use your car for runs on A roads you should easily get 55 mpg without trying. Just keeping up with the flow should produce 60/65 mpg in summer too.